Joey Mack

Other Dog, this one is for you.. I told you a while ago that You inspired me to smoke some Yummie goodness.. I'm trying something. my wife doesnt like skin on chicken, so i pulled the skin and saved it. then i smoked these 1/4's till they got a good color then I covered them with the skin to keep them from drying out.. i expect them to be Yummie.. Have you ever done this with chicken, if so, how did it come out? Hoping for a good game today, Jojo

Perfect !!! thanks Tom..

Have you had any good luck with the brake cylinder?

I bet they didnt dump Dr. Jill's undies on the floor either...

I laughed so much,,, I pee'd a little....

yep... nice to see you again... Pokey...

mech.. look at these fittings i use.. you need 2 wrenches to put them together.. easy breezy.. they have been around since back when you came here on the Santa Maria... just sayin'. luv u bud.. jojo

your too kind Mark.. Do you think $5,000.00 for labor is low? I'm just curious. These builds cost between 10-20 K depending on customer request and re-using good parts. Of course I want to install a fresh turbo, oil pump (unless it passes my inspection) water pump, nozzles, oil cooler, air compressor, and have the heads done.. I cant machine the heads or do valve guides, but I can lap valves (water test them) and install new seals..

give it a go..

use a common gear puller to remove the pulley.. when you press it on the new pump, make sure that the spindle at the impeller is what you are pressing against. this sounds obvious, but I have to say it.. no need for 20 tons use the hand pump on the press so you can see when it seats, then give it a little extra and stop. I think nut torque is around 60 lbft.. just be sure that the spindle takes the force, not the pump housing.. jojo

those are JIC fittings, I think 37 degrees.. they are available as a 'build your own' type. I have a parts house near me that sells the fitting and the hose by the foot or roll. I just cut to length and assemble.. your fittings are #4, #6, #8, #10. then you just get the hose that fits the fittings.. I dont recommend fork lift hose. its too stiff.. Jojo

Thats what I was thinking,,, Paul.. Heck, I just take an old stud to a local shop and they have a chart with all the dimensions. I just find what I need and buy them.. Not sure what the issue is that he is having.

maybe I need to post an ad.. Bring me your E-7/ E-Tech's and I will rebuild them. $5,000.00 labor, plus parts. You can supply the parts as long as I approve of them. Here is what it will look like when its done..

well said Glen..

i will try to go in order....injector sleeve/cup, either way, not the issue..... shop air into the injector bore?? so when the heads were off did they see cracks? fuel lines DO NOT have seperate tubes like a john deere dozer engine,,, the lines go directly to the injector no threads at the injector, they are pressed into the injector with the nut that you see on the side of the head..... no oil will slober..... high liners is highly unlikely, and how did he know? did he use a sled gauge to check protrusion? and know where to put the pointer? did he give you the measurements?..... Mack liner protrusion on your engine is .023''-.029'' with a .002'' variance between banks.. once again, little ol'e me has has that tool... (mid-stop cutter) I cut counter bores,.... heres a picture...

this is odd for sure. the seal in the water pump is a spring loaded seal, called a mechanical seal.. stop leak is a no-no.. so is $650.00 for the pump. can you not buy PAI in your country? do you have bearing play at the fan hub? as far as advice,,, I would look at PAI, and return the gold one. PAI wont have the pulley, so make sure you know how to change the pulley without bending the impeller .. it's not hard.. jojo

do you have budd wheels?

So what's your point ?? Don't hold back, FJH...

Mack injector cups are thick and mechnicaly pressed in. These heads crack around the injector hole or between valve seats. Just keep it simple. Do all the tests that we post before you break open the piggy bank.. jojo

Do you have any pictures? I'm curious about the shape of the cab..

Your right JoeH.

I agree with Glen. Heck I bought the tools and build those engines in my my little shop at home..

I suspect EUP oring failure..

I have been able to re-use those injector lines. I take a small piece of 320 emery cloth in my finger tips and rotate the ends of the lines until the impression is all but gone. theres been many times where all 6 stayed sealed.. NO o-rings or sealant is used,, EVER... they dont leak oil, if they did you will have a bigger issue.. Buddy, I dont like to pick on mechanics, but I get the impression they dont know Mack engines.. I suggest you search out some other posts on here related to your issue, and read them.. with respect, Jojo

there arent any o-rings on the fuel lines.. the leaking sleeve is possible, which means they dropped the oil pan and pressurized the cooling system and looked up at the bottom of the liners for droplets. did they??