Joey Mack

Yes it is, but they have yet to have a ''Switch hitter'' advertise for this brew,,,, until then, I'm good..

No Bud Light in this house... just sayin'

its been below 20 degrees around here this week, and will be for the net few days.. My truck doesnt make heat very good so I thought I might recycle some boxes and make a shield to help raise the temp. in Old Blue.. It folds down for warmer days..

yes,, especially in re-man heads.. I think they werent fully drilled through and you can punch out the slug if you put the stud in too far.. I think i remember that 🤔

yes, the lower exhaust stud holes are open. they go into the pushrod bore.. with this being said, if you re-seal/replace them be sure to avoid running those studs too deep. you WILL hit the pushrod.. the stud end in the head is about 3/4''.. if you decide to pull the heads, before you do, get a dozen M16 x 75mm long bolts, and large washers the same size as a half dollar. you will use these to hold the liners down. this way when you are rotating the crank to inspect the liners, you wont risk the chance of moving a liner. It's rare, but possible.. Jojo

just look at cross hatching.. if there is some left, just hone them and GO!.. the new rings will make up the difference. it will run fine.. you may have to trim the carbon ridge at the top of the liner, but that is common for liner re-use.. before you pull the heads, come back for more advice..

with a bore mic.. pull the wrist pins and inspect the bushings, if they are good, just hone the liners and re-ring your pistons and put them back in.. all of what he (fjh) said about cost and usage is real time thinking.. he's right.. jojo

straydog... did you forget to post something?? jojo

you are very kind.. To me, this world of trucks and truck people is a Family.. Thank you sir.. Jojo

these guys are the best.. jojo

I understand...

The dealership, is going to try to sell a ''Basic'' to you.. I wouldnt expect them to have a knowledgeable re-builder in house. also, if its a Mack dealer, they are going to tell you that the re-man center doesnt have any E-7's and they want yours to re-build, and it will be 6 months till it's done. I dont know what is available to you as far as skilled shops, so forgive me if i'm out to lunch..

have you considered replacing the valve seals? you can do it with the heads on the engine..

It sounds like you did your homework :).

Yeah, I'm leaning towards FJH's side and checking blow by is good to do. You didn't mention blue smoke, or leaks, or even how much oil you are adding and the time frame..

I have an oil pressure gauge on a 20' hose that I put in on the top of the centrimax filter housing. i have a 't' fitting on it so I can put the line and pressure sensor back in line, then I can hang it in the cab when I test drive..

boost loss is not related, I just put that in there because Im seeing 2 issues..

Black smoke can be a boost leak.. can you pressure test the charge air cooler and intake manifold for leaks? I would do it just because..

so in years past, we would roll rods and mains in and take the oil pump apart and look for scaring grooves inside ,and inspect the relief piston for scratches, and the spring. another thing to look at is the plugs on the end of the rocker shafts. they can loosen or even pop out. I say this, not knowing how good it runs and what color the exhaust is.. If the engine needs a re-build, (rings) then at least you will have the new rods and mains.. It has been a good way to get oil pressure back up. In most of the repair we did, the updated high pressure oil pump was installed.. Jojo

I think the full tank of fuel is needed for the 15 trips to the hardware store to get parts. it is for me at least..

thats a good question, one that I never looked into.. I have installed hundreds of them and whenever possible I just installed the calibration codes using Mack software.. I never did look to see if there were different part numbers. I would think that the injectors and the programming in the EECU is where the adjustments are made.. I say... use them and go with it. I assume you are using the 400 EECU..? Jojo

yes. i was a happy kid. no school!!

BMT Benefactor 7.1k Location:Salisbury, North Carolina My Truck: 1948 International KB-7/ '77 homemade C-30../ 2002 Isuzu NPR svc.trk. Posted 9 minutes ago Well, since we are reminiscing.. The coldest I have experienced was in Rangley Maine, back in '94-'95.. For 1 week it was -45, and warmed up to -40.. I had an '87 Camaro at the time, and it froze shut and I couldnt open the doors for days.. I actually went to town on a snowmobile. I had been living in Maine since '81, so harsh winters were nothing new.. We had a heavy snow with squall's, and when it was over, the snow drift on the front of our house was so high, that when we opened the front door, the snow was piled up to 6 inches short of the top of the door frame. There was even an impression of the front door in the snow.. When I tell folks here in Central N.C., they think i'm crazy or full of crap.. It was real.. Jojo

Well, since we are reminiscing.. The coldest I have experienced was in Rangley Maine, back in '94-'95.. For 1 week it was -45, and warmed up to -40.. I had an '87 Camaro at the time, and it froze shut and I couldnt open the doors for days.. I actually went to town on a snowmobile. I had been living in Maine since '81, so harsh winters were nothing new.. We had a heavy snow with squall's, and when it was over, the snow drift on the front of our house was so high, that when we opened the front door, the snow was piled up to 6 inches short of the top of the door frame. There was even an impression of the front door in the snow.. When I tell folks here in Central N.C., they think i'm crazy or full of crap.. It was real.. Jojo

I forgot to mention slipping a hose over the plastic line and putting it in the jug too.. sorry bud.. Have you done any more to it since your last posting?