Joey Mack

How about contacting Tony Corriher at Landis Plumbing, in Landis N.C. he has a bunch of OLD Fire house stuff.

Do you have the triangle panel on top of the dash? If so, they are under it. There is another one behind the clutch pedal.

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there is no reason for any American to take that picture with that woman.... No good reason.. she shouldnt even be here, let alone in U.S. Congress....

when you seperate the housing, the shim pack may move with it, just do your best to add RTV to the shims if on both sides. typically the shims stay stuck together, no need to seperate them just seal what comes apart.

ok, so that is the rear carrier. what you can do is get (2) 16MM bolts about 4'' long and cut the heads off to make guide bolts. pull the bolts out of the carrier at the top side opposite bolts 10 and 2 o'clock.. then install the guide studs you made. then remove the rest of the 5/8'' 12 point bolts. then you cna slide the input housing forward with the drive shaft still in place and add some RTV to the carrier with a small screw driver or a paint stick, whatever. Of course clean the whole thing first, there will only be a small amount of oil leaking, use brake clean or equivlant to get ir dry and ready to take RTV.. do not block the oil galleries with the RTV.. no biggie, as far as preload, you wont be affecting that because you are sliding the assembly out, and right back in. no timing to worry about either.. and no tooth pattern to worry about either.. Jojo

Barry, when the time comes for the next coin, I will only buy 1,, so there will be 1 more to be sold. I had bought 2 each the last time.. looking forward to the release. Jojo

My new name for her... Kamalie Harris...

can you post a picture of what is leaking? not a close up, about 6 feet away.

I forgot, something about current control to the EUP's.. it controls fuel delivery and timing, if i remember right..

I think it was a C.C.R.S. series.

that is the range shift cylinder, did you try to pull the rear cover?

im am not super smart about his, but if im right, when boost gets too high, the pressure is sent to the Bimber valve on the front of the injection pump, and the valve pushes the rack in the injection pump back a bit so as to not over fuel the engine, Iguess like a governor, but using boost to regulate.. thats all I got..

I wonder if it is a form of reversing relay. they may have kinked it to get more ''go'' out of the injection pump...

thats better,,, those 4 bolts com out and the bracket mounts there, and you take a bolt out on the carrier mounting bolts and add a longer bolt to hold the bracket at that point.. the temp sensor is in the drain hole for draining the oil. no biggie, just know that..

Yes Mech, the rear carierers are not drilled and pluged with short bolts any more.. Dont know what year that started, but it wasnt too long ago.. It is stupid.. it takes away options, I think that the rear output hole is eliminated too.. I guess if you wanted to build a tri-drive, you would have to buy new carrieers..

I would love to see it when its done.. I am curious how this will be done without replacing the rear carier.

I dont know how you would make it work.

Good question, some of the carriers were not drilled and threaded for the torque arm bracket.

Ditto...

the carport name may be stamped into the square tubing,, I know one of mine is.. Eagle Carport's..

just like a Mack 1070-B but without the lo and lo-lo gears..

It is an Eaton. it was a five speed gear box that you could split each gear. 1st, lo/Hi 2nd lo/Hi 3rd lo/Hi..... split it like a range shift but i was a split shift...

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gosh, now I wish I knew to look at how the top 2 shifted themselves. i think you had the splitter up, and it knew how to split it on its own.. dammmit.. I just wasnt deep in at that time..