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Joey Mack

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. I bet we knew Vinny, all good.. my guess is you are nearing your whit's end?
  2. I worked at a Mack shop that had a hydraulic torque wrench. It was great ! you could do them on or off the truck.
  3. Exactly !!
  4. just put YOUR eyes on the trunnion ends.. the bottom side gets ground down and will have a rough surface. it wont be flat, but it will be obvious. please post pictures for us to give opinions on.. Jojo
  5. the trunnion bar is probably flat on the bottom where the saddle goes. your wasting your money if the trunion is not replaced. Axle Surgeon can cut the old bar out and weld in a new one, provided the 'A-Frame' is not rusted through or cracking at the top inside the frame, where the 3'' holes are for air lines and wires. to pass through.. Not sure of todays price, but 10 years ago it was $1,500.00 parts and labor, you hand to strip the spring packs off and have the truck on stands for them to do the job.
  6. mech, I made that copy from an older Mack suspension book, 25 years ago.. I didnt know anything back then..
  7. I cant say that I have ever used that updated saddle. how much wear is there on the spring leaves? I guess if it fits snug, then the springs should stay in line.. do you have 7/8'' diameter u-bolts? here is a chart that I copied decades ago. hope it helps..
  8. I guess after 20+ years working hard on Mack's and having to get them back to work... I woulld work extra hard to make a tool in a jiffy to get the job done.. Nothing ''hack'' about that..
  9. Mech... I called for you on this.. Paul posted,, look back, youll see.. at the same time I said to ME,, dumba$$ 20 guys here know about this.... I was doing damage control..
  10. after using bent flat stock for these and king pins... I bought the sockets.. when you have to get it doen you make it happen...
  11. Mech... you missed what I posted first..
  12. '04 granite,, I say a T-310.... or M L.R.
  13. Bud, That is awesome ! I never used one, but would like to see it in action.. I have the Kent Moore tool, but I really like that there is a cost effective way to get the same resullts..
  14. there is a small shaft that operates the range shuttle valve.. in the olden days you didnt pre-select the range, you would go to 'N' then range shift. then shift the lever normal way. ( I am a Double Clutcher) .. this set up allows pre-selection, and when the shift rails ar in 'N' the shuttle valve sends air to the rang shift cylinder. Long winded, I know, but this info may help. if the 'rod' is not functionung right, you likely will 'clash' the gears upon range shift..
  15. Thanks Paul, I was just thinking about fixin' my post.. I know that there are many with the knowledge on these pitman arm's.. Please forgive me??
  16. I say, never mind trying to by parts... take it apart first, clean the grease out and the threads of any rust and grit. if nothing shows dramatic wear, and if the spring is not compressed or broken, screw it back to gather, I bet it will tighten up then grease it... Guys,, what say you?? Jojo
  17. yep, I missed it.. it's full mechanical..
  18. of course I i dont know if its full mechanical or has the electric gov. housing.. I may have missed that.. we will see..
  19. FJH,? I'm really rusty, but is it possible he has the timing pointers on the front of the engine? and his degrees are on the balancer? '96 E-7...
  20. 2 grand for the timing tool, holy crap.. ive been told that you can look in the hole and line up the 2 indicators, but i have never done it, i have the timing tool in my shop. Although, it makes sense because the tools contacts are opposite each other.
  21. That picture is fuzzy, i hate that everything now a days is junk
  22. yep...
  23. definately needs a plate on the outside, and I would go with 3/8'' thick rather the the 3/16'' plate, high grade bolts, and stover nuts..
  24. How about contacting Tony Corriher at Landis Plumbing, in Landis N.C. he has a bunch of OLD Fire house stuff.
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