Joey Mack

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AHKrmPRucm8eYgVj8... I have dia grams in my shop but cant get to them right now.. they are large Mack printings. However, you should be able to use the info I posted to find the wire(s).. Jojo

check my link.. i have more pics to send

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bHfxdEwquA84j1n16 tell me if the linky no worky..

what chassis do yuo have? i assume CH-613... I am trying to post pictures, I have to creat a link. my new phone is not too smart

all good, you have V-MAC I...

Do you have a duetch plug on the back of the injection pump? Another way to tell, is when you turn the engine off, does all of the dash power turn of instantly, or is there a 7 second delay?

The 45 degree fitting is a regulator, 80 PSI..

bad engine mounts??? Nite Nite Birthday Boy !! luv u Bud.. Jojo

Well, my go to on these issues is to check the valve adjustment.

Mech,, your the teacher... I'm just trying to be an astute student of your knowledge.. My goal is to impress you.. just sayin'..

oil leak passed an o-ring in the engine brake heads celenoid.. with the higher oil pressure. FJH, Mech?? what say you?

I have to say,,,, That is by far one of the Breast pics of ''A Girl in a Car'' jojo

J.J.N. I think we are related we seem to think the same way on this subject.. jojo

I may, i can look in my V-MAC II book after work..

dont replace the EUP's..!!!! check the engine wire harnes first.. the wires at the EUP's are bent around the EUP, and the insulation cracks open.. Please take the time to remove the EUP wires and inspect them for cracks.. EUP's are tough...

Carbs are soft, you can hand ream it and press or tap in new bushings coated with sleeve retainer.. of course finding bushings may be an issue..

G W,, its a Carter BBR-1.. I rebuilt it last year. O'Reilly carb kit P/N.15021B

I switched to Brake clean.. it changes the engine speed either way, up or down.. ether seems to be different.. I'm with you MarkT

👍

Larry, I am glad that you and others know that it is not always the parts person who is at fault. As you and others know, the BIG Company that buys the failing company, does everything they can to eliminate the company they bought. They eliminate the training on the older stuff because they want to sell the new stuf.. My issue is that if you have truck owners who have been doing this all their life, why wouldnt you want to accomadate them. If they stay happy with the service, they may be tempted to buy a new truck, as the fleet grows and/or needs to be replaced. They just dont care about keeping the older truckers, just get all the $$ we can up front, and to Hell with a 20 year realtionship with a truck owner.. I have done work for many long time truck owners. i have gotten many handshakes, 'Tips', and requests to work on their truck after hours, because they saw that I gave a damn !!.. Thanks again Larry, Jojo P.S. it seems like Heinz gives a damn...

yes to buzzer box, the rope is a home made hand throttle. the other linkage to the rear a bit is the real secondary hand throttle.. ditch the rope.. do you still have the 'T' handle in the dash below the speedo?

The sharp ears tells me they go back 40+ years. I dont know when the smooth ears came out.

Mech, thats where I remember the buzzer to be. on the back of the triangular gusset above the clutch pedal.. I do know that in the 90's RD models and newer that I have worked on, it's name was changed to a Multi Buzzer.. it was so loud when using turn signals, that all of the drivers in my fleet would un-plug them.. then I would plug them back in when they were in my shop for the next PM.. The DOT Man doesnt like it when they are un-plugged..

yep, That's what I get for not working on a 70's model Mack in decades.. Thanks JoeH.. I put that back in my brain..

Is the buzzer mounted to the triangular brace above the clutch pedal?