Joey Mack

Looks like the re-man center didn't do its job with the data plate, I'm guessing it was rebuilt in 1990, the year that the E-7 came out.. maybe Mack can tell you what it is using the 11GBA number.. although, terry did say what it is... Looks good to me..

what does the data plate behind the injection pump say.. I just see an E-6, 2 valve .. ENDT means engine, diesel , turbo..

that wire harness is wrapped really well.. I would hope that at most you have pinched wires,, and not severed wires.. no matter,,, you can read the code on the wires to find the match to two severed ends slip on some heat shrink, and solder them back together.. .. just sayin; , Jojo

oh hell,,, you are smart enough to fix the wires..

buddy, that will be a job.. I may be out in space on this one, but .... with as many harnes's I have rebuilt/repaired... I would look at the damaged area and cut it off flush.. the harness should have all white wires with the code stamped in it.. I'm not trying to make this sound easy.. I assume the spot were it bends at the left front hinge is one area that concerns you?? I used to repair MR/LE trash trucks a dozen + years ago... but without being there, I'm no good to you.. Ias far as wire harness's, I just solder new wire and terminals in place.. I have one in my shop right now.. its for an E-Tech.. I just fix'em..

I may not be any help.. Yes, the mechanical stuff is.. not too hard to figure out, I guess i'm not clear on which harness concerns you.. I was thinking engine harness.. if so,, dont see why you couldnt keep the harness you have.. the 2003 long block doesnt care.. ( the cam may be different) then you can keep your current ECU's..

I have this thread running through my head,, i was thinking about the front mounted PTO.. are you using it? if so, just for kicks, check the crank hub coupler for fitment and thread type. yours should be all metric, but just in case, check it.

if I'm reading this correctly, you have a question about the harness fitment? Can you call Mack and get the part numbers for each harness, using the model and vin from each truck? the handful of these engines that I have built using 2 or more engines to build 1, have been as basic as routing the original harness correctly. as far as grooming the engine, I have put older manifolds on newer engines, and the EECU that is correct for the application of the truck. I see you have an Allison transmission, I would look at that circuit and pin location in the bulkhead connections.. also, a while ago I used and engine from an MR, and put it in a granite, I believe it was a 2003 model. I had to move the fan mount up to fit into the cooling shroud, ''Man it's been a while''.. I hope I helped add to your already great knowledge of these trucks, Jojo

JoeH,, I read this a few times and thought about it as well.. I myself can not just spout out a bunch of do's+ dont's.. the 2003 is an AI, the 2000 is an E-Tech, which I like better.. The engine harness's may be different as far as the 2000 may go around the back of the engine and the 2003 goes around the front, therefore the EUP section will be different, and there is a boost sensor on the 2003, and I beleive the triangular 1939 plug has 3 wires on the 2003, and only 2 on the 2000.. I know that I should know this off the top of my head with ease, but I have lost some knowledge.. I think Mackpro will clear this up. I will follow this thread.. Hopefully I can post correct info... Jojo

I think I'm gettin it done.. This Dutch Oven is only 15 years old, but it was rough.. I guess now I need a chicken or a pork roast,,

O.D, Thats the 'Sin Wagon' I was talkin bout...... I got the 2 chinesium ones done.. Thanks again,, Jojo

well im dubbin with 'em.. I blasted the Chinesium cast iron, but I think i should have baked them at 500 degrees on the grill first.. soooo,,, thats where they are right now..

Mech,, i'm glad you posted.. I thought about posting similar info.. You WILL DIE, if you get injected.. Thanks bud.

I have a wagon like that. I used at the race track to tote my beer coolers.. I named mine ,,sin wagon,,.. yes redneck for sure..

Many good points, I'm glad you use the book, also, when barring the engine over, you pull the ratchet towards the oil pan, another way to know you are up on #1, is that the #2 exhaust rocker will be rocked.. Jojo

When you ran the valves, were positive that you were up on #1? And did you adjust them by the book or the John Deere way?

Oh, ok...

its a 4 valve

I beleive around 3500 PSI.. The spray pattern and 'Mist' is also very important.. Will you be pop testing? or able to see it get done?

you have me curious TJC... I just see cast iron.. I guess I dont see a negative for blasting the inside and wiping it clean then baking them... Thank you for chiming in...

pots will be dry Paul,, For Sure.. here they are.. One is supposed to be really Old.. if I have time this weekend I will do 1 or 2 of the modern ones... I think it will be fine..

I like the way you think, LTK....

No, I know what hes saying.. Its just that my cabinet is large and the sand hopper is as well. I would have to flush out the cabinet and replace the media, then do it again when Its time to do my typical work.. Its all good,, yes the sand will leave some residue.. my thought was to blast them, wipe them out will corn oil then bake them on the grill for an hour, then re-season them.. Just having a little fun here.. jojo

and scrub them by hand??? TJC.. they are really rusty,,

O.D.,,, I have a few OLD cast iron pots that are rusty.. I was thinking about using my blasting cabinet to clean them, then start over and season them... What are your thoughts on using the blasting cabinet... I was thinking about doing one of my Chinese pans first, as a tester..