Joey Mack

yes to Pre load..

Yes sir, I'm mostly commenting on trying to make Big Power, from Small Mack engines, like the E-6. That is why I say, just buy a bigger engine.. I like reading these responses... Be Safe Drivers... Jojo

our city trucks are F-350's.. 6.7's.. all with loaded service bodies.. they scoot right along. 10 spd. transmissions, plenty of gears..

I am glad you made it out safely.. I dont like driving new trucks.. they are too comfy and I dont want to feel like im in my wifes Avalanche, I will get lazy and forget its a Big truck... I drove a few m-Drives and found myself driving way too fast.. Jojo

well it is 29,000 rear ends and 58,000 Boobies.... soooo Go easy on the ol'e guy.. Just sayin'..

WOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I keep seeing post's about wanting More H.P. ok... but they want it out of an E-6 or E-7.. 400+ H.P. I don't have a million miles or many different skill sets for the different loads to pull. But I did drive many slow and deliberate Macks, with E-6 2 and 4 valves, and E-7's for a construction company.. I can understanding wanting more power at times, but I also believe the truck needs to match the job it is doing. I can tell you , the '79 R-model I drove was a Hoss. It was a long frame, fixed 5th wheel, 1070B 12spd, 4.42 rears, yeah it had power steering,, that's it! I have been pulled over by ''The Man'' a few times, weighing 118,000 -122,000.. of course got tickets, but looking back,, that truck hauled the loads.. My guess is that 25 years later, doing the same work at 70 MPH is what they are after.. I was running roads in Maine from the pit's to the job site's.. I am NOT a long time driver, but I remember how those trucks got it done.. I guess I am looking for opinions.. Because to me.... If you need big power..... Buy It!! you aint gonna get it out of these Mack engine's, but if you keep them tuned and lubed, you will get million mile reliability, just have to do it below 70 MPH... OK guys, now it's time for my beating on this.. Jojo P.S. ... I drove ALL of thier Macks, and one of the best pullers was a '97 with an E-7 400/18 spd. All Mack..

President Joe Bama, Is not for security of our country. Only cares about his wealth.. Ukraine , China, Iran, Afghanistan... Why does Hamas have American made AR's and M-4's?? Anyone here know how the people of Palestine OHIO are doing? How about Maui???

at first glance I thought it was Harvick..

The rear valve cover is rounded like a 2 valve...

Big R.. you are too kind.. I runs really good, and is in solid shape. I look forward to driving it around town.. Jojo

I have seen those set around 19 degrees.. I suggest you use the serch feature and try to read some older posts. I cant tell you the answer with confidence.. Jojo

is yours full mechanical? the book is for 1994.. I wonder how much is the same?

Well Bud,,, this is the oldest E-7 book i have.. Can you be more specific about what info you want? Its an effort to post lots of pages..

You rekon he needs to start a new thread, and use English? Just askin'...

since it is out of the truck, you can stand it on its nose. this will allow the shafts to drop into front bearing cups. then you can check both cases. the front case through a side cover, and you can remove the bearing caps on the rear and dial indicate the ends of the shafts. jojo

I buy some from, mypowermanuals.com.... they are downloads, but I put them on C.D.'s and load them into my shop laptop..

how long has this issue been around? did it slowly happen or suddenly? does it grind on the range shift? there is a snap ring in the center of the synchro clutch basket, that if it breaks, it wont range shift to high range, and sometimes not at all.

lightly oil the threads then wipe them off, and the same for the washers and under the heads of the bolts. no biggie, just dip them in some 30 w and wipe the excess off. if the threads have too much oil, they will hydraulic lock, thats why we wipe them off.. if not, it will give a false torque when tightening them. jojo

they are re-usable...

yes, pre-load is the opposite of end play.. Mack uses pre-load, well at least on what I used to re-build, Eaton used endplay,, so when you feel a small amount of movement in an Eaton rear input/output, or tranny output, it is correct,,,

OK.. I get it... it's probably 3-6 lbs for new bearings and 2-5 lbs on re-used bearings.. You use a 'Fish scale' to pull the string.. and read the scale.. I was taught that method when I used to build Mack rears.. it checks pre-load... not end play.. Jojo

RS Disposal,, Will you be able to use any of the info i posted? I sure hope so.. I can E-mail the pictures to you if you are willing to share your e-mail.. Jojo

LTK,,, I looked in my svc. manual cabinet ,,TWICE,,, I can not find my TRD-72 book.. I'm sorry, and not Happy about this.. My books are ''Gold'' to me.. anyway, You got this.. Jojo

Bob,, this thread has helped me get it in gear.. I have been picking/working on my '48 INT.. I'm taking parts off the engine and sand blasting and painting them. As you can see, I still have more covers to remove and blast/paint........ I have to make my own gaskets. I found a full gasket kit, but it was $800.00.... Anyway, thanks for the inspiration..