Joey Mack

I did post engine gaskets and head gaskets on another thread.. I can try to use my phone to re- post them.. the info is on the searching for a 79 head, thread. I posted on Sept. 15th

I just read this thread again.. I was concerned that I gave wrong info. I said ''Pre-load'' I just went out and looked at one of my 200 series books, and it says .002''-.006'' pre-load measured at the rear bearing cover.. I beleive Mack used that spec on the TRD's and on through til today... I beleive I am right.. I also said .002''-.005'' on re-used bearings, and .003''-.006'' for new bearings.. I know that is true in both transmissions and Mack rear's.. I say that .002'' pre-load is just fine for what you are doing.. now ... you have .027'' endplay.. is the center case gasket wrong? causing the endplay? my guess is you have steel shim's under the bearing covers?

O.D. Look what I saw at True Value... You may be on too something.. Jojo

yes to Pre load..

Yes sir, I'm mostly commenting on trying to make Big Power, from Small Mack engines, like the E-6. That is why I say, just buy a bigger engine.. I like reading these responses... Be Safe Drivers... Jojo

our city trucks are F-350's.. 6.7's.. all with loaded service bodies.. they scoot right along. 10 spd. transmissions, plenty of gears..

I am glad you made it out safely.. I dont like driving new trucks.. they are too comfy and I dont want to feel like im in my wifes Avalanche, I will get lazy and forget its a Big truck... I drove a few m-Drives and found myself driving way too fast.. Jojo

well it is 29,000 rear ends and 58,000 Boobies.... soooo Go easy on the ol'e guy.. Just sayin'..

WOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I keep seeing post's about wanting More H.P. ok... but they want it out of an E-6 or E-7.. 400+ H.P. I don't have a million miles or many different skill sets for the different loads to pull. But I did drive many slow and deliberate Macks, with E-6 2 and 4 valves, and E-7's for a construction company.. I can understanding wanting more power at times, but I also believe the truck needs to match the job it is doing. I can tell you , the '79 R-model I drove was a Hoss. It was a long frame, fixed 5th wheel, 1070B 12spd, 4.42 rears, yeah it had power steering,, that's it! I have been pulled over by ''The Man'' a few times, weighing 118,000 -122,000.. of course got tickets, but looking back,, that truck hauled the loads.. My guess is that 25 years later, doing the same work at 70 MPH is what they are after.. I was running roads in Maine from the pit's to the job site's.. I am NOT a long time driver, but I remember how those trucks got it done.. I guess I am looking for opinions.. Because to me.... If you need big power..... Buy It!! you aint gonna get it out of these Mack engine's, but if you keep them tuned and lubed, you will get million mile reliability, just have to do it below 70 MPH... OK guys, now it's time for my beating on this.. Jojo P.S. ... I drove ALL of thier Macks, and one of the best pullers was a '97 with an E-7 400/18 spd. All Mack..

President Joe Bama, Is not for security of our country. Only cares about his wealth.. Ukraine , China, Iran, Afghanistan... Why does Hamas have American made AR's and M-4's?? Anyone here know how the people of Palestine OHIO are doing? How about Maui???

at first glance I thought it was Harvick..

The rear valve cover is rounded like a 2 valve...

Big R.. you are too kind.. I runs really good, and is in solid shape. I look forward to driving it around town.. Jojo

I have seen those set around 19 degrees.. I suggest you use the serch feature and try to read some older posts. I cant tell you the answer with confidence.. Jojo

is yours full mechanical? the book is for 1994.. I wonder how much is the same?

Well Bud,,, this is the oldest E-7 book i have.. Can you be more specific about what info you want? Its an effort to post lots of pages..

You rekon he needs to start a new thread, and use English? Just askin'...

since it is out of the truck, you can stand it on its nose. this will allow the shafts to drop into front bearing cups. then you can check both cases. the front case through a side cover, and you can remove the bearing caps on the rear and dial indicate the ends of the shafts. jojo

I buy some from, mypowermanuals.com.... they are downloads, but I put them on C.D.'s and load them into my shop laptop..

how long has this issue been around? did it slowly happen or suddenly? does it grind on the range shift? there is a snap ring in the center of the synchro clutch basket, that if it breaks, it wont range shift to high range, and sometimes not at all.

lightly oil the threads then wipe them off, and the same for the washers and under the heads of the bolts. no biggie, just dip them in some 30 w and wipe the excess off. if the threads have too much oil, they will hydraulic lock, thats why we wipe them off.. if not, it will give a false torque when tightening them. jojo

they are re-usable...

yes, pre-load is the opposite of end play.. Mack uses pre-load, well at least on what I used to re-build, Eaton used endplay,, so when you feel a small amount of movement in an Eaton rear input/output, or tranny output, it is correct,,,

OK.. I get it... it's probably 3-6 lbs for new bearings and 2-5 lbs on re-used bearings.. You use a 'Fish scale' to pull the string.. and read the scale.. I was taught that method when I used to build Mack rears.. it checks pre-load... not end play.. Jojo