Joey Mack

Have you checked the oil level? Also, is the gear shifter used as an arm rest?

there are NO pins just loosen the castle nut and strike the end of the steering arm and it will fall out, leave the nut on a turn or 2 so it dont hit the ground..it may take a few strikes, but she'll come...  

grease. the plug in the picture is an air bleeder.  it looks like it may be sealed by paint. pump grease in until it comes out of the bleeder.  may want to just put modern spring loaded bleeders in the trunnion caps so you dont bust the caps. 

ok, so that is the rear carrier. what you can do is get (2)  16MM bolts about 4'' long and cut the heads off to make guide bolts. pull the bolts out of  the carrier at the top side opposite bolts 10 and 2 o'clock..  then install the guide studs you made. then remove the rest of the 5/8'' 12 point bolts. then you cna slide the input housing forward with the drive shaft still in place and add some RTV to the carrier with a small screw driver or a paint stick, whatever.    Of course clean the whole thing first,  there will only be a small amount of oil leaking, use brake clean or equivlant to get ir dry and ready to take RTV.. do not block the oil galleries with the RTV..  no biggie,  as far as preload, you wont be affecting that because you are sliding the assembly out, and right back in.  no timing to worry about either..  and no tooth pattern to worry about either..  Jojo

I used to take a seperate battery, and run a power wire to the EECU fuse, and clip a jumper Cable to ground in the truck, then crank it up.  Most common repair was a bad starter, provided the batteries passed a load test

yes they are 12MM studs.  PAI has a kit and the gaskets, felpro makes the gaskets..  be sure to put high temp sealant on the threads for the bottom studs. Those holes are live right in to the pushrod bore.. also, pay attention to how deep you go with them. You may hit the push rod, E-7's have thinner push rods than E-Techs, but just get an understanding of what you have..   Jojo

have you taken the belts off and run it? 

Maybe look up ''Mack Essential tools''   there are a few for the alignment of the rear cover, .004'' feeler gauge for gear train backlash, a cam timing tool kit,,  A+B slot stuff., you can make your own cam lifting jig, just put padding on the hooks, clear fuel return hose and banjo fittings, Premium Tech Tool in a good laptop,  Patience.....  and the book that I have..  the barring tool, front main seal and rear main seal drivers,   ok...  my brain is overheating,,  maybe someone else will add to the list..  

it wouldnt hurt to check lash again,, have you ever run the rack on an ASET-I or C engine?  Just curious..   It is not the same as Earlier Macks, Cat or John Deere, for example..   Jojo

the bull gear carries the oil to the top part of the housing. the trough shaft carries it to the power divider like a screw pump. then the excess pours back into the top housing through drain holes. ( front rear),,  the rea rear is the same with the bull gear, but the top housing is only splash lubed.  

There is a hole in the frame on the left, between the drives. It is about 1 1/2" diameter. In the hole you will see a slot for a large screwdriver.  To adjust the height, you loosen the smaller bolt near the hole and then rotate the slot with a screwdriver.. this will move the control valve, which will raise or lower the frame.  Have you adjusted air ride on any other trucks before? 

I had the rocker shafts and pushrods all along..  I had a tote hidden behind 'stuff'..  In it was the parts I needed..   👍
 
I still need the fuel lines though..

Ok.. I just saw the video,  the large o-ring at the base of the globe is leaking air.. that is the problem..  drain it down to just below the globe. Clean and inspect the o-ring.  Clean the lock ring and globe flange. Re - install and only pour enough fuel to show 1 inch of fuel, and re - test.   That air leak is common, but can be avoided by keeping it clean.  There is also a check valve inside the big input fitting. They are about $10.00, and well worth replacing.. it is easy to do.. Jojo

He can pull the DRL relay and see if it happens again..  

interesting question..  since the brake shoe part numbers are the same, the drum diameter is the same..  I guess i would try to cross reference the drums for a 22.5 and a 24.5.  can you measure the mounting bolt pattern of the drum?  take a measurement from one bolt to another bolt but skip the bolt next to it,  I bet the brake drums will be the same..  because I doubt the would make that many different sizes, when the brakes were sort-of standardized..   IE: 4515Q shoes,  and a 996B drum..   lets see what the guys say..  Jojo

You wont find it...  I tried and wrote a post about it..   Just go and donate $25.00 to BMT, and it will be fixed..   Small price to pay, for all that they provide for us here..  Use Pay-pal..  jojo

Thats the panel that is in the cab.  The reverse lights are fused in the box under the hood below the middle of the wind shields. 

Hopefully, OldMan,  your next post will be the one that says its fixed..    👍   jojo

Check fuse 40 in the engine fuse box.. 

A 2005 Granite, CV-713, with a Mack engine, will have an ASET-I EGR.... ( Application Specific Engine Technology - Internal EGR). It's E-7 on steroids..  

I'm with Terry.  A bad oring in a shift cyl. Will bleed through and come out the shifter.  

pull the center panel and inspect the condition of the plug on the switch..  

one thing you can do is use your DVOM, and find a good ground on the cab, and check for continuity on all the pins in the J-3 plug..  that may point you towards a short to ground..  are you familiar with how to read the wire codes on the white wires?   It is actually easy to do, and really helps when you are checking the wires at a distance from the VECU..   jojo

It can work, but it is not as flexible, so directing it around corners or bending may be a small challenge..  I doubt it is passing through a narrow area where the larger diameter is a concern..   jojo

Ok.. it is very common for oil to leak/weep between the block and flywheel housing.. a lot of work to fix a minor issue.. the rubber gasket is to be installed dry, however, a small amount of Mack Gray RTV is applied at the seams where the flywheel housing mates up, and the front cover mates up.  4 points..  new bolt insulators are a must..  PAI sells a nice pan gasket set..  the E-Tech pan gasket is very good.. Good luck with your RD,,  you are in the right place for info..  Jojo