Ahubbard

I had the same problem on my em7-300. It was right around 1200 Rpm. Foot lightly on throttle. Would miss or sort of “gallop” I kind of describe it. Almost felt like it had way to light of a return spring in the throttle, but that wasn’t the problem. Eventually over time it got worse and did it in a broader rpm range. And even got to the point of doing it under load some when I let it get real bad. I changed the pump for a reman because the diesel shop thought it was in the governor. Swapping the pump cured it. can’t say if you have the same problem as me but sure sounds it. Would only do it when for instance I would coast down into a 35mph zone without downshifting, and then just give it slight throttle to keep it moving through the zone at about 1200rpm or so. Didn’t do it on the coast down, or when I gave it real throttle to speed up. Just that light pedal push at that rpm.

Can you pressure the coolant system to check for leaks? My buddy’s was pushing coolant when loaded. Especially when pulling a hill. That ended up being a head gasket. Pressurize the coolant system and see if you hold pressure or lose it somewhere. I have.l a feeling if the air compressor is the problem it would push coolant loaded or empty, and do it when the compressor is kicked in pumping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are making pressure somewhere then. I leave my bottom one empty and top one filled and the bottom Stays empty. But if I put coolant in the bottom one it will come out that weep hole and cover the side of motor. Like it siphons itself out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My 99 rd used to push coolant out the small hole in the cap. I have the 2 piece tank and now I leave the lower tank empty. No problem any more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No I hacked that harness up when I swapped in the mechanical . Sorry Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is this normal and I just never heard it before? I’m the past year I have: New tank New fuel lines Reman injection pump Reman injectors New return lines. Reman cylinder heads Only thing not changed in the fuel system is injector lines and fuel filter heads. I think I am just hearing the lift pump or the overflow noise reverberating through the line. But this is a first for me. It’s pretty pronounced. Made me think the reman pump has a defective lift pump or overflow. Don’t want to spend the money to replace either just to find out it’s normal Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They look real similar except the low lows. My Mll trans is same ratios as the 14909all below in your pic. The 310mlr and 9LL Have almost exact same ratios. I have 4.42 rear as well. I was paying attention to my driving after thinking about your question. I find that I don’t rev real high in the lower gears. Actually kind of lug a little until I am On the high side. I was thinking back and I wasn’t a fan of how this trans shifted when I still had my etech in front of it. Seemed like in the lower gears it didn’t respond well enough to lug it like I do now. Had to lay into it a little and get the rpms up to have enough power to get her moving. Then was too fast for next gear shift. Just like you describe. The mechanical e7 changed my opinion of the tranny all together. Has the low end grunt now to drive it in the right rpm. Maybe Mack technician is on to something with a different rear ratio. (Although I recommend full mechanical e7 swap). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe this will work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ever since the new injection pump I get a real loud ticking through the return line can be heard in the tank. I am wondering if it is that overflow valve on the pump? I don’t remember ever hearing this before. I am trying to attach a video but don’t know how Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They might be a little blurry because they are screen shots of some weird pdf site. Here is the regular M. Ratios more like a 8ll. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found this online. Hopefully this helps. These ratios are real similar to my 9LL Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got this done the other day. Just like you said everything was in place as far as plug ins on the switches. The dang wiring was run right to the heads!! Super easy. Already turned on in the ECM as well. Total plug and play. Thanks Mack!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wish I had multi speed reverse... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am not sure what you mean by transfer power. But I think that transmission has a real low low like 26:1. I looked it up once on ratios it is similar to my rto-14909MLL road ranger. There is a lot of gears in the low geared area and the reverse is geared low too. My truck is a dump but started out as a concrete mixer. I think the lowest gear is to walk with a curb machine when pouring concrete. I know my dump works great under a milling machine. Similar to an 8ll but extra low in the low gears. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Next thing on the list for my e7 pln engine is cylinder heads. When I replaced the exhaust manifold I see that there is a pretty good amount of oil leakage around the valves. I quoted a local shop and they were at nearly $1900 per head. Exchanging for Remack is coming in at about $1100 per. I always remember thinking Remack was high quality. Is this still the case? I don’t do enough mechanic work to be “in the know” on this. What your guy’s thoughts and opinions on Remack? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey I am parting out my 1999 350. If you need any parts message me and we can see if we can make a deal. I am trying to be real reasonable about prices because I would rather see the stuff used than scrapped. But I gotta get a little something for the parts, you know. Already gone are -jakes -ecm -exhaust manifold Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome! Thanks for the quick reply!! I will have to take a ride to his place and see what I can find in there. I noticed that in my dash there are hookups labeled for things I don’t have so I though just maybe this would be that way too. I’d rather help my buddy get set up with a Jake than haggle with buyers on eBay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok here it goes. I have seen a lot of questions on here about adding Jake Brakes to trucks but searching the site I can’t find topics about this question. I have my old 1999 etech sitting on the floor of the shop. Just started parting it out selling some stuff on eBay. My buddy has a farm truck 2000 Mack with no Jakes. He wants to put my name on his motor. I am thinking no problem mechanically everything should fit. I have all the stuff he needs. The question is how about control? I assume that all flows through the ECM. I haven’t looked at his truck at all so the question is would the wiring be there for the clutch switch, jake, on/off, etc then just turn on Jake settings in ECM. Or would it be totally different harness then wheat he has. If she were mechanical motor we would wire up some switches and go for it. Damn computers. Lol. Anybody got some knowledge on this? Thanks Guys!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Both good ideas. I just put new motor mounts in and the dampener is back ordered at Mack. See if I can get one ... maybe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This may be out of my price range... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Exhaust manifold on my 1994 e7 pln mechanical is leaking again. Number 4 flange and also between the turbo and manifold. Few years ago i had it off for leaks and took it to the local machine shop. They put it on a big belt sander and trued up the flanges best they could for me. Then when I switched turbos this past spring I broke a turbo mount stud. Long story short that one got a helicoil and bolt put back in it after a long day of swearing and breaking drill bits. (Was not my day for sure that day) Also this “fix” is probably a big contributor to the leak at the turbo gasket. Anyway, I am at the point that if she’s leaking again, I think it’s time for a different one to go back in it’s place. The one in place on the motor has long bosses where the studs come through. I have one on my old parts etech that would use Short studs instead. Any reason I can’t put short studs on the pln motor and use the manifold off my old etech? Or any reason I wouldn’t want to? I haven’t done a search yet. Maybe the old longer style are readily available as good used parts still. Not sure what new from Mack would be $$$. Trying to keep it a budget project but get myself back to a good sturdy non-leaker Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I put a clutch in three weeks ago. That thing started making a bunch of chatter under there. Worn all to hell around those torsion springs when I got it out. That was old too... but this summer of running the truck this way didn’t do me any favors there I suppose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey I have somewhat of a conclusion to this thread. I traded the injection pump in for a reman one this week-Finally had some down time. This fixed the problem with my gallop at 1200 rpm. Haven’t had a load on yet but the test drive seemed to go fine. So I don’t know what specifically was the problem in the pump... probably something in the governor. Thing was worn out either way. Almost 26,000 hours on her. So I am a happy camper. I still have a bit of a shake/ vibration in the engine overall. Not sure what. It’s not bad but noticeable. Nothing that more time and $$$ can’t fix I suppose. I just wanted to follow up so the guys who were helping me diagnose could know that my gallop problem was in the injection pump. Resonant ride, worn parts, high speed and overload are my conclusion. Thanks again everyone Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I mounted my ball valve to the engine side of the firewall. I took the handle off first and mounted it at a spot with a hole. Then I put the handle back on in the cab side of the firewall. Still have to turn it in and off on a cool morning ... but I don’t have to pop the hood. I just reach down under the dash above the throttle pedal. Works like a charm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is a picture from the book. I imagine that one that is underlined is yours. I don’t have the book in front of me right now for any torque numbers. This was a picture I sent my buddy last winter. If you need anything else I can look it up in a bit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk