Licensed to kill

Don’t think so. Diesels don’t really produce “vacuum” per se even when naturally aspirated and certainly not when boosted. To my way of thinking, that line will provide air movement FROM the intake TO the valve cover not the other way. The purpose????, not sure but maybe to dilute the blow by fumes before they exit the draft tube, not unlike the air pump on 70’s vintage cars that pumped fresh air into the exhaust to reduce emissions???? I dunno. That’s my current opinion on the purpose and function of that air line, as always, subject to change without notice pending compelling arguments to the contrary.

So, if I want to keep the puff limiter, where does it send the intake pressure signal to??. IOW, where does the line from the limiter go? Also, is there a bench test that I can do to ensure that the puff limiter works correctly?

That port has a line going to the mount on the valve cover that the draft tube come off of.

👍

I apologize for the confusion. Yesterday I posted “It appears that the title of this thread has caused some confusion. I only mentioned the tip turbine because, of course, the entire intake system between the turbo and head is unique to this system and it is so where in that system that a port will be if one already exists.” To try to clear it up but let me say, this is not about the tip turbine it is about finding a good signal source for a boost gauge.

I took that “gizmo” off and searched the part number and, yes, it is a puff limiter (whatever that is). I’ll pull the boost signal from that port. Thanks to all for the replies.

I have a port on the intake with some sort of gizmo coming off it. No idea what that gizmo is or is supposed to do???? Idea?

Yes, that is my question, is there a port somewhere already that I have not noticed or do I have to add one. It appears that the title of this thread has caused some confusion. I only mentioned the tip turbine because, of course, the entire intake system between the turbo and head is unique to this system and it is so where in that system that a port will be if one already exists.

Going to add a boost gauge to my truck (1980 , 350 econodyne) Plan is to put a collar in the crossover pipe from the turbo to the top turbine but before I do that thought I would ask if there is provisions somewhere for that already that I don’t see.

After a week I finally got the exhaust mocked up for my B61. Never liked the way Mack mounted the exhaust (with the triangular bracket bolted to the frame) but I do like the way the exhaust is fashioned and mounted on my 379 Pete so that became the inspiration for the stacks on the B61.

If memory serves, there is a B model with the engine pulled on national lampoons “Vacation” ( the original one) at the gas station they go to for repairs after they jumped the car “50 yards” when the road was out.

B model in the opening credits for “Northern exposure”.

Yes, plated for multi-position Jake’s are all over the place but I want just a plain “on/off” indicator plate. I did find one with the same format as the one I posted but says “Dynatard” which would be fitting since my engine has Dynatard rather than Jake’s. If I can’t find one like the one I posted I may just get a Dynatard one.

They came on 70’s vintage Pete and Kenny’s. Don’t know if they came in Mack’s or not.

Traded a VW bug for my ‘57 but had to pay $200 to boot.

lol just the pic. Perhaps this one is better

If anyone has one to sell.

My car from 40 years ago.

I chose to go with fuel tanks mounted between the cab and rear axle and will be making storage/battery boxes/steps. I was considering making the boxes out of the original fuel tanks as I want the rounded edges. However, aluminum or SS would be better than painted to go with the rest of the truck. Am considering cutting the ends out of the fuel tanks and making the rest from SS so I get the roundness and only the ends would require paint and I can paint the end caps on the actual fuel tanks to match. The battery box/steps on my 379 Pete’s would work but the edges are too sharp and would look out of place on a rounded truck like the B model. Would love to hear suggestions for under cab boxes, whether available or even design suggestions that I could just make. Thoughts?

Yup, a brand new spring will snap if allowed to unload unimpeded.

I considered that and it very well may become an issue (if I DO break a leaf, I will just have custom singles made). However, in my experience, leaf springs break due to faulty shocks. When shocks fail to dampen the movements of the spring and the spring is alllowed to decompress to zero load under all of its power, they will snap. Dampen the action (through quality shocks) and the chance of a leaf spring breaking decreases enormously. I am not aware of any metallurgical changes over time that would make an old spring more brittle than a new one. In fact, an old sagging leaf spring can be re-arched and continue to be used as new. I am still pondering replacing the stock shocks with new tube shocks for added security for the springs. Bottom line, for a leaf spring to live, it’s compression/decompression cycle NEEDS to be controlled and that is the sole purpose of the shocks.

So, it’s fall, my hand is about as good as it is going to be (not good but is what it is) so I’m back at the B61 project. Got a few things done like putting air ride on the steer axle and finishing up preliminary fit for the driver side air cleaner as well as the plumbing from that can to the tip turbine. Have a LONG ways to go and a fair bit of parts to make yet but, God willing I hope to have it on the road for spring.

True but will only be an issue if using the rear from the CH as the locating dowel pins would need to be moved inboard. If just using the suspension and putting the original diff under it, shouldn't cause any issues in that regard.

Yes I did remove the pedal from the shaft to powder coat it. However, the only way that reorienting the pedal lever to make it contact the clutch lever would be to rotate everything forward so the levers are nearly horizontal (or at least on a 45) and the clutch leer would hit the bell housing. I am pretty sure that they are su[posed to be vertical when at rest. I wonder if there was a change up to these levers later in production to shorter ones?. My trucks are all pre-1960 and I have no idea what year the clutch lever is. If there was a change, the first 4 digits of the casting numbers were the same and I don't know how likely that would be.

I am not sure I follow but both levers are pretty much vertical and the one on the pedal shaft is keyed so it can only be installed in one position.