ThaddeusW

I read a funny article about a year ago in the paper. There was a fella who was so sick of the price of living in New York City he bought a bread truck and lived in it. He paid $2000 for the truck and parks it for $300 a month at a truck parking lot. Compare that too the $1000+ rent for a stupidly small apartment. His work has showers or he showers at a friends. If you think about it he pays only $3600 a year in rent and the investment of 2 grand in the truck means he spent $5600 either half or less than what he would spend for an actual place. Even pays a few extra bucks to run an extension cord to a socket on the lot. So much for utilities.

Dear lord! Someone get that girl a weed whacker. Never liked a girl with a jungle down there.

Hint: Beaver is a slang term for out-of-sight hair on a woman.

Lots of stuff to auction off. They have a 193 page spread sheet with 10,975 items. OH and the download link does not download the file with the proper file extension. It comes in as a .cgi file which needs to be renamed to a .xls file.

lol. I was under the impression he was trying to figure out what gears are involved in determining the rear ratio. Dont worry about spelling. I have gotten away with it the better part of my life thanks to Google and spell check. Remember spelling tests in grade school? Well lets just say my parents had to sign one too many papers saying they did in fact review my poor test results

I have to admit that I would like to have a new smart phone. My brother has had the Google T1 Android phone since they released them. Even though its an older model it can still browse the web just fine. I also prefer the integrated chicklet style QWERTY keyboard over and on screen one. My crap phone is an older multimedia phone, it can take pictures, play mp3's and run a google maps app but it does each of those poorly (google maps takes 3 minutes to load). A friend has the Nokia N900 which runs GNU/Linux (Debian based) and that is a pretty amazing phone as well. Its actually more like a pocket computer that can also happen to make calls and take pretty good pictures. Android runs on a Linux Kernel (The kernel is the low level guts of an operating system) but is based on Google's Android Java environment. All I know is I would like to own one of the new smart phones.

Someone needs to torrent this DVD.

In a single axle, the ring gear turns the differential, the pinion gear turns the ring gear. The pinion gear is spun by the drive shaft. The ratio between the ring gear and pinion gear is your rear ratio. The term "bull gear" refers to the larger of two spur gear that are meshed together. So the technically the "bull gear" would refer to the ring gear, not the other way around. The smaller gears in the differential itself do not affect the ratio in any way. And neither do the gears in a power divider. BUT there are rears called double reduction where the ring gear and differential has a special set of planetary gears between them that further increases the reduction available.

You also have to have it charged and make sure you have the oil charged as well. That might run you upward of $75-$150 depending on the amount of refrigerant used. You can do it yourself but you need to invest in a charging manifold and vacuum pump. I did just that and have successfully charged a few systems myself with great results. Bought a Cooler Master charging manifold for around $80 and a used JB Industries vacuum pump off ebay ($150). JB pumps are made in the USA and they provide part lists and exploded view diagrams to rebuild and service the pump as necessary (http://www.jbind.com/). Charging is simple. Hook both the red high side and blue low side hoses to the AC system and hook the yellow hose to the vacuum pump (some manifolds have 4 hoses one for vacuum and the other for refrigerant). Then make sure your pump is full of oil and then turn it on. Open both the high and low side valves on the manifold to begin the pump down. Give it an hour or two to pull a nice vacuum and also eliminate any moisture and vapor from the system. You should be able to pull and sustain a vacuum of 29 inches of mercury (<20Torr). Then shut both valves on the manifold, disconnect the pump and then connect the yellow line to a can or tank of refrigerant. Start the vehicle and slowly crack the low side valve letting the refrigerant into the low side. This will build up pressure in the low side and charge the system. Sometimes the pressure in the low side gets high enough tso as the refrigerant in the can or tank wont evaporate. That's an easy problem to fix, get a pail or bucket of warm water and submerge the can into the water. This causes the pressure to quickly build from the can forcing it to empty. Keep charging until the low side can run at a stable 40PSI and the high side around 250PSI (that is for R134a). Oh and never charge the system from the high side unless you want the charging can to explode. The equipment cor charging can run you upward of $300 but you can charge any modern refrigeration system. Maybe make a few bucks on the side charging AC systems.

Oh I know the song. And its "I like sugar, and I like tea", you must have the Mark Foley version.

Now that is random!

Just a little FYI on DC motors: DC motors that are permanent magnet will reverse with a polarity change (like those in wiper and washer fluid motors). This is because the field polarity of the permanent magnets (they take the place of the stationary otherwise known as stator coils) does not change. In a starter motor, the stator coils are wound and not permanent magnets. The armature (rotor) coils are wired in series with the stator coils. Even if you reverse the polarity the motor will spin in the same direction because the stator and rotor coils always have the same magnetic field polarity. If you want to reverse a series wound DC motor you have to be able to reverse the polarity of either the armature or stator windings in relation to the other. This is impossible in a starter because the series winding is permanent ly connected internally. There are a few different kinds of DC motor setups: series, compound and shunt. Series are the best for high starting torque because the load causes the armature to draw more current, but the armature and stator are in series. So as the armature current increases, so does the stator current which causes the starting torque of the motor to quickly build up overcoming the resistance of the load. They draw lots and lots of current and if ran with no load they will run away and fail catastrophically (just like a runaway diesel). Shunt wound has low starting torque but can be run with no load as it is speed regulated. The compound wound offers the best of both motors but is a bit more complex and therefor more expensive.

LOL. Hey Rob, can you please post them in jpg format. I get tired of having to download and open them in picture viewer.

That's a damn fine deal you got there! Are you practicing with the trailer or giving away the trailer immediately? I would keep the trailer for a while to practice. Setup some cones or obstacles like a pretend dock, yard, truck stop parking lot etc and start practicing! Also get some practice in to hook and unhook the trailer. You have someone who knows how to drive/shift? Maybe make them a deal and buy em a case of their favorite beer and have them take you out for a few hours. This is another good point. Your H is going to have a twin stick which is a whole different beast. With a Fuller 9 speed you have two reverse speeds, one lo hole and 8 road gears. You shift 1-2-3-4- Range Change, back to 1st which is now 5th and again 5-6-7-8. Lo is used for crawling around or starting a heavy load on a hill. Your H has what a 9 or 10 speed twin stick (most likely)? That shifts much different. First you have the main stick on the left and the compound on the right. Side note: a triplex and quad have the sticks the other way around. this is because you shift the compound more than the main so it makes sense to keep it closer. Okay, back to the 9 or 10 speed. So the main has a reverse gear and 5 forward gears and the compound has two gears: lo and hi. You start out with both sticks in neutral, shift your main into 1st and then the compound into lo and start giving it a little gas while coming off the clutch. Then once your get the revs up shift the compound into hi and keep going. Now you have to get to second. This entails shifting the main into 2nd and then quickly shifting the compound into lo to prevent lugging. Then rinse, wash, repeat until 4th. Now of you have a 9 speed and your in 4th-hi just shift strait into 5th, there is no 5th lo. With a 10 speed you split 5th. If you have a 13 or 15 speed triplex it works the same except the compound has lo, direct and hi. so its 1st-lo-direct-hi, 2nd-lo-direct-hi etc. For a 13 speed its the same as a 9 speed, once in 4th hi just shift the main into 5th and that's it. For a 15 speed you split 5th. The Quad box has two versions as well, the 18 and 20 speed. The compound has lo-lo, lo, direct and hi. Lo-lo is NOT for road use, its for crawling around in the dirt or heavy hauling. To use lo-lo, you shift into lo-lo and then run through the main 1-2-3-4-5 or pick a single gear as you see fit. For road driving, an 18 speed shifts exactly like the 13 triplex, you just ignore lo-lo on the compound. Same goes for the 20 except you shift it like a 15, split 5th and again ignore lo-lo. lo-lo is for heavy loads, dirt and other low speed driving situations. I hope I got this right, someone correct me if I am wrong.

Now that is using your head. Who needs a PR department with a truck like that, it does all the talking . Awesome F model, clean and simple. Best of luck to your campaign.

Welcome! That is a pretty rare truck for sure. A heavy hauler R700 built for export in Allentown. I like how he includes the history and historical pictures of the truck on the page. That is a great truck to own right there. Here is the youtube user page that features many videos of this truck

No one ever said the dump box doesn't come off

Just spotted this on Truck Paper, must have been added today or yesterday. Its an MH613 with what I believe is a V8, Telma retarder and heavy axles (58-65k) on 12.00R24 rubber. Also notice how the headlights were mounted on this rig and how the grille shows no signs of being modified (factory grill?). It is probably a European requirement to have the headlights mounted low (Euro trucks have their lights mounted low). Pretty cool to see an MH setup for heavy haul, never saw one with 24" rubber http://www.truckpaper.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=2422355

Cant argue on the price. The local watering hole by me has bud light pints for 3 bucks. I sometimes go this one bar in Brooklyn (Its a rock/metal bar which are very rare to find) that has a PBR and a shot for 3 bucks. That's pretty good for NYC. Shit you should see some of the prices they charge in Manhattan. I went to this one place with a friend, ordered a shot and walked out when the bar tender asked for 10 bucks. Sometimes it makes economic sense to just drink the generic stuff.

Thanks again John. I really want an L now and the LJSWX is what I would like to have. A B8X is also a truck I would want, your boss's truck is perfect . Now I just need to keep saving money. Oh and are the tires on those LJ's typically 22 or 24 inches?

John, As always you come through with lots of great info. I figured that was not an original L and was modified. I also knew the Cappello truck was not original as the spokes looked too new and the front too high up. Either way it was one hell of a nice looking truck and an original LJSWX is what I would like to get my hands on. I have wanted an L model since I discovered an LFSW in great condition near me. The bad news is that LFSW (Pics in my gallery) might have been scrapped as the owner of the company (Taff Trucking) was arrested on federal charges relating to money (possibly racketeering, who knows). My source told me some or all of the trucks were confiscated and who knows what happened to them. They also had a B and C dumps as well. Is the Gerhart LJSW missing the X at the end of the model # or was it omitted from the listing? does the X in the L # denote eXtra service like it does in the B model #'s? Anyone know what all the letters in the L numbering mean?

Since I saw the Cappello LJSWX at Macungie, I have been looking around at pictures of L series. I was browsing around found that Gerhart has an LJSW but ulike just about every L I have seen this one has fenders that appear to be from a B80. Are those the factory fenders? Here is the link

This truck was just at this years Macungie. It has a factory Allison automatic and Cummins (forgot the model, 350?). The truck is actually all original and looks bad ass with the 8 spoke rears on camel back. Never saw 8 spoke hubs on a B model before. Did the B model ever come with 65 rears, that is what I was told they were. It makes sense since 8 spoke hubs were also available on 65 rears, maybe even 58's. By far this was one of my two favorite trucks of Macungie 2010. The other favorite was the green Cappello LJSWX. I know someone was asking about factory Allison's in B's so I decided to post this. And Just because the Cappello LJSWX is so damn sweet, here is a picture: