ThaddeusW

Well the block heaters are usually 120V AC (240V AC in other places). This presents the problem of conversion which gets too expensive and impracticle. If one could find a 12 volt heater then thats a different story. But a 1000 watt 12 volt heater would have to draw 83 amps and a 1500 watt would draw 125 amps. Thats allot of current and you would need a battery bank with at least 150-200 amp hours capacity to warm that block up. Maybe an air intake heater would do better?

The offset cab allowed you to stick your head out the window and look strait down the body/trailer. Makes for good visibility and also lets you see a little more on the right side as well.

Thanks for that info! The pictures were taken from another members gallery. His forum name is Tyson and apparently he is a shop worker at Conforti or one that does work for Conforti. So I bet you know him already! I must say that its pretty cool that you work for Conforti as I always liked their equipment. How long have you been driving for them? And as for those F900 mixers, you say that FM Transit was the last company that had those mixers? I am trying to see if I can track down what happened to them but another member, John (truck1536), a former driver for Certified and the F900's believes they were either all scrapped, exported or both (I forget). If FM got a hold of a few it would be interesting to see what happened to them but I don't think FM is still around, maybe John knows? To me that would be the holy grail of a restoration candidate! And FM buying some of those old certified units gives me some new hope that one might still exist.

This beauty of a truck is listed on truck paper but located in Frace. Its complete with 14.00R25 rubber on eight spoke rears and those massive 6 spoke front hubs with 2 clamp bolts. Its an off highway spec but certainly has the potential to be one serious dump truck! Has a 350 mack and a 18spd fuller although the shift knob in the cab is a Mack. What was the rating of that setup as another old DM800 with eight spoke is listed as having 80k rears! I have seen DM's with 8 spokes on mixer trucks around by me too. That axle setup is also reminiscient of the massive F900 mixers Certified used to run. Conforti also has a DM800 tractor with that axle setup.

If its a CH then its a CH, if it was a pinnacle CH it would be a CHU. The pinnacle name is now applied to both the Vision (pinnacle) and CH axle foward. I have to be blunt and say that this naming sceme is just plain retarded. Why on earth would they call two different trucks the same name? Its like calling an apple and an orange a carrot or a red carrot. Just plain dumb and confusing. No reason to rename the Vision to the Pinnacle because the Vision didnt go through any major visual change to warrent a new name. Sure its a new chassis/engine and interior but it still looks the same. The Granite is the pseudo replacement for the RD/DM model and is geared toward vocational use but I have seen them pulling van trailers. The Pinnacle is the new MP7/8 powered Vision or CXU. The Pinnacle axle-foward is the Axle foward CH with the CHU designation. They should have left the Vision name alone and given the CH a name like Valuliner or Fleetliner like they did in Australia.

Ok, Now some circuits are always live in the truck like lights, cigar lighter and whatever else turns on without the key. Now there is a solenoid somewhere that hooks to the run position of the key switch that turns on the rest of the equipment like the radio, fuel cutoff (to turn engine off with the key) heater and air dryer heater among other things. I don't know what your fuse block looks like so bear with me. If you see an open fuse slot like the one for heated mirrors, get your tester out and see if it has power with the ignition key on. Only one side should be live and the other side is where the mirror switch wire would have hooked. Now instead of the mirror switch hook one of your wires to it and put a 10 amp fuse in there. Do the same with another unused fuse slot. If you only have one extrea fuse to hook up to then your going to have to split that fuse to the two circuits and then fuse each circuit seperatly. Now before you get conFUSEd let me break it down a little. Each of those two circuits (Reverse and air dryer) need their own fuse for circuit protection. But you have only one AUX fuse to spare. So you figure out how much current each circuit will draw and then get an inline fuse holder for each line and plug in the properly rated fuse for that circuit. Then join the two wires together and then run them to a larger fuse that has the ability to supply both circuits. Now lets do a little basic math to see how much juice the circuits can use. If your air dryer heater is 90 watts (which is the most for a 12v heater on an AD2) we need the amps so we simply divide 90 by 12 and get 7.5 amps. Fuses typically come in 10-15-20-25-30 amps so 10 amps is the best rating. Now the two reverse lights will also draw very little so fuse them with a 10 amp as well. Now you have two separate 10 amp circuits and one fuse to spare so just plug a 20 amp into the aux and then hook the two circuits to that. Here is a simple diagram: Here is an example of an inline fuse holder for the blade fuses. And here is one for the 1.25x.25 inch round fuses. Both can be had at any auto parts store. I hope this helps, if not keep asking questions, thats what we are here for

I think the canadian spread is 72 inches? Was to get more weight on a tandem in Canada (38k vs 34k) but nowadays its not required anymore. Not sure of western spreads.

Gold dogs meant you had a Maxidyne engine under the hood during the late 60's/70's and early 80,s. Nowadays its the symbol of an all Mack drive line with no third party components.

Hmmm you need a new air dryer circuit, reverse light circuit and you also need to fix your air horn. OK. Rob is right you need to be careful but you seem to be a sharp fella so I think you wont take any short cuts. Ok first off if you can figure out if there was a fuse/circuit breaker for the dryer thats a good start. There should also be a wiring block on the cab because when they make a truck the cab is all pre-wired and so is the chassis. So when they mate the two the chassis harness is connected/plugged to the cabs wiring block. Nowadays its all electronic using a local network to communicate with the different components but not too long ago it was a simple terminal block. Tilt your cab and look for a terminal block toward the front of the cab near the frame rails (there might be more than one). I dont know if they labeled the terminals (they are on my 88 GMC amazingly) but if you do find a fuse/breaker for the air dryer try to trace it to the terminal block. If you find the terminal and you can get power with a good fuse or breaker just run a piece of 14 gauge wire from that terminal block to the air dryer. Ground the other end of the dryer to the frame but make sure its a good ground as a poor ground will render the heater coil ineffective. Use a wire brush to clean around the bolt hole you gonna use for the ground and make your connection. Let us know if you cant find a fuse or breaker for the air dryer. If not then your gonna have to wire up a new one which wont be so bad. Ok now your air horn is mounted where? I like em on the roof but some guys like to hide them under the cab or behind the cab or even along the frame rails. Since your going through trees its better to get it off the roof as you don't need a hole in your roof when a branch snagges the horn. If its on the roof the horn usually has a valve with the pull cord and a 1/4 inch hose for air supply from the wet tank and a 1/4 line to the horns(s). If you pull the cord and just hear air hiss out then the horn is no good and needs to be rebuilt/replaced as the diaphragm may be bad or stuck. First check if there is air to the horn valve and then check the horn. If no air to the valve then you need to run a new line. Mostly the same line that supplies air to an air ride seat is tee'd off to the air horn so thats a place to start looking for an air line. Reverse lights should be wired up at the rear. Again see if you can find a set of wires that are cut back or hanging by the transmission. Didnt you say there was a wire or two by the transmissions rang/splitter valve? Those might be the reverse light wires. I bet they were left disconnected because of a short and they just left them unhooked because they might be on the same fuse as the brake lights. Ok wire tracing time. Best way to see if those two are the reverse lights is to see if you get any juice to them with the key on. You can use a volt meter or a bulb to check for power. next to see if there is a short take a 12 volt bulb and hook the two wires to it. If it glows dim and the reverse lights glow dim then your in luck they work fine. But if it lights up at full brightness then you may not have the reverse lights or have a short. Start following those wires and let us know what you find. We will then see what we can do from there. Oh and a few tips on good wiring: Never let wires dangle outside or even inside the cab as they make it easy for them to rub and eventually short out or get ripped off. Use wire ties and tape to secure them to other wires that are already properly ran or any other suitable tie point And try to make sure if you run a wire through a hole it cant get cut by any sharp edges leading to shorts and possible fire. Keep the wires away from sharp edges. If its near a sharp edge put a good layer of tape around it to toughen it up or smooth out the sharp edge or cover it. Twisting wires together and throwing some tape around them is the worst way to make a splice. your gonna have fun trying to find the splice that pulled appart when something stop's working. The best splicing method is to solder the splice as this ensures an excellent mechanical and electrical connection. Then get some heat shrink tubing over that splice to ensure its thoroughly insulated and it wont peel off or come off from vibration. Dont use wire nuts that are used in building wiring as they aren't meant for wiring that is subject to vibration ( I have seen this done in auto wiring!). Crimp connectors are nice but make sure the crimps are done right! They are color coded and certain colors are for certain wire gauges and the crimp tool has corresponding crimp edges that are also color coded. I see people use connectors that are too big and the wire falls out. Don't use a crimp edge thats too small for that color terminal, you can squash it so bad that you shear the wire making a loose/weak connection. I not only crimp them but also let some wire stick out near the terminal and then throw some solder on it to ensure that the connection is thorough. Let us know your progress or if you need more help!

That sounds just fine. The freightshaker I had didn't even have a wet tank, only two smaller air tanks for front and rear. Since you have a tandem and a trailer I am sure you have way bigger tanks. Air starter :

Not too sure but a Freightshaker box truck I drove not too long ago took well over a minute, maybe three, to fill the system from empty at idle. Revving the engine helps get it up to pressure faster but it should still take about a minute.

The puff limiter holds the fuel rack back until the turbo builds up boost pressure making sure there is enough air to burn all the fuel. If un hooked or turned off you will get plenty of smoke on acceleration, some guys claim they get a little more oomph but its mostly wasting fuel.

I wonder why they are selling those wreckers. Very nice trucks and should definatly still make money.

I still see DM800's rolling around Queens. The other Day I saw a real nice DM800 tractor pulling a nice old school tandem axle lowboy. Didnt catch the name though.

23,000 pounds

Take the MP number and multiply it by 100 to get the CI. MP7 - 700 cubic inches /12L MP8 - 800 cubic inches / 13L MP10 - 1000 cubic inches / 16L

Good point, I didnt even notice those huge springs. Sad it was cut up.

This looks like a pretty nice combo. I wonder what Its going for? If you need an 864 and What might be a Quad this is your source.

This is the new Australian Titan:

Firt thing to check is if the hoses are even connected. If the cab heater starts to leak some guys just unhook the thing to stop the leak. Two hoses run from the Engine, one comes off near the water pump before the radiator to supply the heater and the return hose is plumbed to the water manifold near the return from the radiator (at least thats how it works on a 673 which isnt much different from a 676).

Oh my god I think I have died and gone to heaven! The Titan is coming! Woooooo hoooooo! Ok let me calm down first. Will they have the vertical air intake snorkels as an option? And I bet those Meritor/Volvo planetary axles will be an option. Volvo got one thing right take the toughest truck mack has ever made (No. 1 selling road train hauler in Australia) and bring it to North America. Titan is a very worth name to be put on a Mack truck! Also since Mack Australia is now inline with Mack America will we see other crossovers like the Metroliner? Would be great if Mack had a premium class 6/7/8 truck to compete with Kenworth and Peterbilt 300.

I think you are referring to the RD. The DM had the offset cab and the RD was the heavier version of the R. RD's had a steel "butterfly" hood option but with the steel hood I don't think you could get an air ride cab. I guess the Steel hood was better suited for the tough conditions in Australia.

Its the steel hood R in the middle of the Titan and Superliner.

Great lineup. I would love to sit it a Titan and see just how much higher they feel. What a mean looking truck.

Ok don't get all crazy with all the problems. First prioritize your list. A/C can wait for the spring time but heat is needed for the winter. The diff locks might be more important than the Jake brake or vice-versa (if you run allot of hills loaded). How many gauges do you have? At the very least you want your volt/air/fuel/oil pressure/water temp/pyrometer/tachometer/speedometer. There are also gauges for: oil temp/trans temp/differential temp/brake application pressure/air filter restriction/amp meter. There are even gauges for outside temperature and some others. What gauges do you have and which ones don't work? The axle diff locks and power divider are all air operated. Just get an air line from the wet tank and run it to a dash switch then tee it to both the diff locks. It has to be a switch that exhausts the air when switched off. Same for the power divider. Wabco offers a nifty solenoid valve block that has 5 or 6 electrically operated valves that has a common air feed. You just run a bunch of wires to the cab which is simpler and space saving. Plus it keeps trouble shooting to a common spot where you can easily diagnose problems. Whats the problem with the heat and AC?