ThaddeusW

Mike its very simple. You highlight the text you want to make a link, click the little icon of the world and then type or paste the URL in. Make sure you preview your post and test the link before posting.

I would say hunt around a little for the wires a little just in case they were cut back or wound up and taped into a ball. There might only be one wire as the dryer might have been grounded right to the frame. If you cant find em just run a line to your fuse block and protect it with a 10 amp fuse. Then just ground the dryer heater to the frame. But make sure its a good clean connection, no rusty bolts as this will impede the flow of current.

Hmmm I don't know what to say other than lets hope for the best. Volvo will hopefully see the light and stop decimating the Mack name and try to further improve and market Mack to more then just the vocational market. Its the same thing they did with Autocar, focused them on the vocational market and we all know what happened next. Volvo should get Mack back in the highway market and hopefully the CL replacement will be the ticket. If Volvo were smart they would realize you cant split Mack and Volvo into two different markets. Allot of people don't like Volvo and they have to live with that. There are plenty of people who would be interested in a big bore big sleeper Mack for highway work but aren't interested in Volvo. Hell if they reintroduced the Superliner I bet it would be a success.

Would it be possible to get a picture of your F cabs air ride setup? I wonder if one could fabficate an air ride setup for an F cab that wasnt originally air ride.

That is a Bendix AD-2 dryer. Here is the service data book in PDF format from the Bexdix website: http://www.bendixvrc.com/itemDisplay.asp?documentID=4453 It has all the information you need to service that dryer. Another thing is I don't see the wires for the heater. Are there any wires near the dryer?

Hey barry, I just found out that Google maps street view vehicle passed by Watts! I enterd "8059 Route 22, New Alexandria, PA 15670" into Google Maps and clicked "Street View". Drag the little figure of a person around and a baloon will pop up with the street view. You can pan around and move along the highway and see close to the same angle thats in the picture.

This was posted over at Hanks. Its Internationals new Lonestar truck to be officially introduced at the chicago auto show. I like the look, retro and radical compared the the same old designs everyone else keeps coming out with.

Hmmm the only things I can think of that are air operated on the front of an engine would be the fan clutch. And then it wouldn't be hanging with a coupling. Are you sure this is an air line? Can you post a picture?

I say drain the tanks daily, some say you can go a week but I wouldn't go that long. And drain them after your done driving for the day as that is when all the water is accumulated in the tanks. The air dryer might be frozen, try heating it with a heat gun (on low and held far enough away) or a hair dryer. The air dryer cartridges should be replaced once a year and the best time is before winter. There are three air lines going to the dryer. One is the supply port from the compressor. The second is the delivery port which runs to the wet tank and the third is a control port which signals the dryer to purge any water and oil it filtered out. The governor monitors the system pressure and controls the unloader mechanism in the compressor which "turns the compressor on". it too has three ports one hooks to the compressor, one goes to the wet tank and the third hooks to the air dryer and it can also hook to an alcohol injector. Their operation is as follows (assuming an empty system with 0 psi): 1)The unloader mechanism in the compressor is by default closed allowing the compressor to charge the system. 2)The air from the compressor passes through the dryer and gets most of the oil and water taken out of it. 3)The tanks now start to build pressure. 4)Once the pressure reaches the governer cut out pressure (120-130PSI) the unloader line is pressurized turning off the compressor. 5)At the same time the compressor is cut off another air signal goes to the dryer to purge the water and oil. 6)once the pressure drops below 100 PSI the cycle starts again. An electric heater coil is also used to keep the dryer from freezing. If yours is broken off then that is a definite problem. If its still there check the wires for power and then check the heater with an ohm meter. The heater is 75-90W and there should be about 1.6-2 ohms across the the heater terminals assuming the thermostat is closed from the cold (do this with the power wire disconnected). Do you know your dryer model?

The stealth brake is an exhaust brake that I believe is paired with a Dynatard. The shock absorber thing is the air cylinder that closes the flap in the exhaust brake. If that cylinder is stuck or getting no air then that would be a problem.

Thanks, my mistake.

Oil is used to drive the dynatard or jake brake and if there is an oil pressure issue then the performance will be poor. I remember someone saying there is an issue in the E7's where the oil pressure to the engine brake is insufficient and an external oil line is installed to get more oil to the engine brake fixing the problem.

What was the first cab over to get air ride? I dont recall the F ever having air ride but what about the Cruiseliner?

Have you thought about going to a radiator shop? The one by me saved me well over a hundred bucks when the condenser coil leaked on my AC. 50 bucks to braze it and test it and it was good to go.

It should be a standard hand hydraulic pump. McMaster Carr carries one in their catalog on page 1324. Just enter 1324 in the search bar on the left and scroll down. The 3000 PSI pump costs $474 though. There might be a cheaper source but I don't have one at the moment. Or I bet you could use one from an MR, just go to a Mack dealer and ask for a cab tilt pump for an MR. Maybe even a junk yard.

Hey Barry, Do we have an RSS feed for the forum? If we do, I want to add it to my iGoogle home page.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...45079%26fvi%3D1 This R715 just hit ebay and has the twin turbo 864 V8 which even has large image sizes so you can see the 864TT up close. I know I will be saving all those photos! And its close to me but I doubt I could come up with that kind of money. Too bad because I could drive it home. Curious thing is the Turbos are piped in parallel for the intake instead of staged. Each of the two exhaust manifolds drives a turbo that both compres air into the intake manifold. Each turbo can have its own stack which should make for some seriously sweet music. Never seen an 864TT before. It has 9 days to go and already is at a 5500 bid. This is going to be interesting to watch.

Welcome abord David! If you own Macks this is the best place to talk about em.

Its a military truck that has a hook lift roll of system that can haul flat racks, fuel tanks, 20' containers, a concrete mixer, dump body, and a bitumen spreader used to make quick and dirty roads. Same as a regular hook lift roll off for dumpsters. Here is a picture I found that shows the left rear axles: The steering gear in between the two rear axles and you can see the shaft

Hey speed, The Oshkosh PLS 10x10 has a rear driving steer axle. I seen a picture of the side and there is a steering drive shaft running from the front tandem steer axles and that turns the rear axle. so the steering wheel turns the twin steer and the rear most axle.

They say not to use an impact wrench on the axle nut wrench. Breaker bar only.

Think about it, old dogs dont die. So cut the parts supply and then watch as their owners send em to the pound (scrap yard) and have em put down. Then hopefully the owner will buy a nice shiney new Mac.....Volvo.

I did it on my GMC just recently and its not that hard at all. I used a 2 jaw puller to yank the old seal out using a piece of 1/4 inch L channel laid across the opening to support the puller screw. Set the new seal in nice and strait then gently and evenly drive in with a piece of 4x4 wood and a drilling hammer. Make sure you put the seal in facing the proper way. I almost drove mine in backwards ! After you finish the job top off the diff and get the fluid into the hub end. Get the tire opposite of the hub you just replaced off the ground about 6 inches to tip the diff and let the lube flow into the hub end. I used a stack of 2x8's arranged like a ramp and drove up on it. Let it sit tilted for about 1 minute to make sure you get the fluid in there. After that top off the diff again to ensure it is filled.

Hey scooter what transmission and rear ratio do you have? Nice Mixer by the way.