ThaddeusW

They should be making an additive for older engines that you pour in every time you refuel. kinda like 2 cycle gassers.

Hi Dave, and welcome to BMT. Here is a post that might be of interest the brackets from a junked R model will do the trick.

If anyone cannot open the DOC file then here is the PDF version.

Barry you stole my idea . I was thinking this same idea last night to make a help topic for picture posting. Great idea!

Glad to have helped

Good work Jeff! I was waiting to see her workin.

Lucy, To put it bluntly its a scam. There are a aot of products claiming to have magical quantum powers to make batteries last longer, fuel burn better/more mileage out of fuel etc. And guess what? None of them work! Stay far away from this guy! Apparently this jerk had another scam going, here is a link to a complaint filed. http://www.complaints.com/directory/2006/march/15/47.htm At the bottm you can see that Jonathan Parr started Qp USA as a possible front to launder cash but is still scamming.

I see that those hirise sleepers were sold in Europe. Scroll down and you will see three of them. http://members.lycos.nl/blackmack/fourphotogalery1.html

I was wondering if mack ever offerd this type of integrated sleeper in the USA?

Were the sleepers on the F, cruiseliner/ultraliner MH all one size? Every F and MH I see has either a day cab or a short sleeper. I have seen an F model that has a sort of hirise top on it, was that factory or stock? Were any longer sleeper options availible?

Adding to what HK said it is possible the sheer the studs off on a budd setup unlike spoke where it will slip instead. Of course youd have to be in a low gear and heavy foot to accomplish that.

I like spoke hubs, they are ugly when you paint the whole thing one color and then let em get dirty. Paint the hub red or blue (or whatever color you want) and then paint the clamps with silver paint. Put polished hub covers on your rears and then buy those snap on polished nut covers and cover the studs for the brake drum. You can paint the rim white or silver, or possibly chrome the rim. They will look real good once you get some color variation. Will be cheaper in the long run Just my 2 cents. These are fine examples of gook lookin daytons (sorry if the pics take too long to load) There are from Hanks site:

LOL true, guess it was hard to find a non mack used mixer that could get itself to the blast site.

Nice truck! Love the oilfield bumper. I found this company in a post here in BMT: Condon and Skelly 121 East Kings Highway., Suite 203 Maple Shade NJ 08052 1(800) 257-9496 Do a search for insurance here on the BMT site, there are a few topics that may be of help.

Sorry to tag onto this post but my qiestion is do they still make the roof mounted AC systems? And they are electric right?

Little big but would definatly get the job done http://www.trucker.com/inventory/specsheet.asp?ID=1639265 Anyone have any idea what it could be worth?

woah very cool! I like the camelback front suspension.

Ha funny how I was inquiring about the radiator forward B71 and here is one beautifully restored

I see. I saw it was listed as a b-71 but though it might have been a mistake. Thanks

I have never seen a b model with a radiator that externds beyond the fenders like this one: http://www.truckpaper.com/listings/forsale...1D43299AE3D3F23

Love the rear fenders on the R-700. Great pics

Maybe a V8 powerd valueliner.

I figured out this little setup in 20 minutes and I have a little machine shop at my disposal. I wish I had too much time on my hands

Hey guys I was wondering if anyone here has ever attempted or herd of someone making their own air steering system like air-o-matic? I was thinking about how it works and figured it out. Its pretty simple and someone with a lathe and milling machine can do it. A simple layout of the valve would look like this: (notice yet again, my superior paint diagram) The red rod hooks to the pitman arm while the black rod hooks to the steering arm The squiggly blue lines are my lame version of a spring so there are 2 springs one for left and right The green things are the air valves and the two darker blue things on the botton are stops The red and black rods are part of the new draglink between the pitman arm and the steering arm. The red rod is able to freely move back and fourth with its ring resting in the center of two springs. The black rod is solidly attached to the whole unit. When you turn the wheel you start to put pressure against one of the springs. when the spring compresses the red ring on the red shaft touches one of the valves pressurizing the air cylinder which assists you. When you stop putting pressure on the wheel the ring moves back to the center cutting off air to the cylinder. The cylinder can have simple relay valves on them to allow the use of small air micro switches and smaller tubing from the valve to the cylinder. You could also use a hydraulic cylinder and pump with air actuated relay valves if you wanted. Sounds like it would function exactly like the air-o-matic system. Someone who wants bragging rights or a fun project can simply build this setup. All you really need to make is the replacement drag link/valve and then find a good air cylinder and some valves and two springs. Mighe be able to obtain the parts off ebay or a surplus shop for a few hundred or less. I just thought about it today and this idea poped in my head so let me know what you guys think