Ricky Beals

Ok thanks guys for the input. I’m going take it off.

Here is a photo of the trailer plug on my dump truck. Can someone tell me what this does? I always thought it was a 7way pin but it only has this one big wire going to it. Thanks for any help on this.

looks like I’m going to get a new clutch. Took it by shop and they tried adjusting it but couldn’t. This is a Eaton fuller 8LL. They mechanic said it would cost about 3,000 for parts and labor. That sound about right? I also have noticed a loud rattle/vibration in the higher gears. It quits when I let up on gas. It doesn’t do it all the time but it’s starting to annoy me. What do you guys recommend I do to try and figure out what’s causing this. My driveline right out of the transmission is not timed correctly. It’s a little off so could that be causing it?

I have the Mack truck in subject line. It only has a tractor brake inside cab. I purchased a 30,000 lb dozer and I was wondering if I could add trailer air brakes and tow this dozer. Would need a tag trailer rated for 40,000 lbs. Before I even waste time thinking about it was going ask some of you more knowledgeable guys if this was even a possibility.

Macks I didn’t see this until this evening. They came and went. It was just one guy. He took a grinder and cut a slit below the Trunnion bar in the stand. He then drove a couple of small chisels into those cuts. He then cut the bar right behind the stand on both sides. Took a 20lb sledge and knocked out both side. He then took the new Trunnion bar and slicked it up and we put it in one side of stand and drove it thru the other side. He welded everything up and was gone. Took him 2 hours.

I did inspect the bushings and they were not worn all the way thru. I’m like you guys this isn’t the original Trunnion stand. The bar looked really good just those threads were gone on one end. Yes everything is new on rear suspension and I’m talking everything. Replacing brakes while I’m back there. These guys are out of Little Rock which is central Arkansas and I’m down in SW Arkansas about 130 miles from them. They quoted 1800.00

Honestly this hasn’t been that hard of a job since we took the bed off. We talked about putting a new Trunnion stand in from Mack. I’m thinking the price was around 3500.00 and a lot more cutting and pulling the rear tandems out. The biggest factor is waiting on it to arrive and we are looking at another week. I have decided to go with axel surgeons and wrap this up this week. Bottom insulators were trashed. Anyway wanted to post up and let you guys know I didn’t fall off the face of the earth.

The bar is smooth just a lot to f grease on it. We pulled the bed and had the cylinder repacked. Changed out hydraulic fluid in the tank. Getting the old girl ready to start hauling.

Well gang just not w getting to the suspension. Pulled it all off and Trunnion bar looked good until we got to the passenger side. There are hardly any threads left. The whole bushing just slid off the bar. The bar was in really good shape, no cracks in welds but I don’t see anyway around not replacing the bar. Not going tack weld the nut on it. Probably call Axle Surgeons in morning.

Ok will call you tomorrow

You still have the glove box? If so will it fit a 2000 RD

I guess I can get a quote from Mack dealer and Stengelbrothers on spring kits My best friend hurt his back 35 years ago torquing those u bolts on a camelback. He worked part time for a diesel repair shop after school and weekends. He was using a multiplier and long cheater bar. Sitting flat on his ass and rowing like he was in a boat. Crazy but I just remembered that story.

I’m thinking that when you guys say do it right your talking springs, and the whole bit. Which makes the video Onyx610 posted (which I watched) spot on. If doing it right means replacing the springs might as well get the kit in the video where it’s already done. Just installing the springs and insulators.

The truck is my personal truck. I worked as an Insurance agent for 27 years and built a nice business. The company I worked for figured out a way to get out of their contract and well they did. I have known for a few years that I was very unhappy with the life I had. When the job ended and it just ended I asked my wife of 30 years if she would move back home where I grew up. I have always wanted a dump truck, excavator and bull dozer. A lot of folks including my wife say I’m a little crazy, might just be. I got the excavator and dump truck and hauled 30 loads of gravel for a house and shop pad. Not one time did I ever think I was working. At first I didn’t like digging near the edge with excavator but I got some seat time and now it doesn’t bother me at all. I bought the wrong dump truck and made my first post on here about changing out the front springs. It was a mack tractor that was converted to a dump. I then sold that dump and bought the RD688 and I think it’s a good truck. To me this is fun and I definitely understand my limitations. Would never try and rebuild the motor, tranny or rearend. This I think I can do with my buddies help. If the Trunnion bar and saddles are good than it was a good call. If not then I will probably post up here and see what my options are. Macks what is rebuilt back right? I have looked the springs over and not one is broke. Do they need replaced? If not then I’m going to assume everything from saddle back to cover gets replaced. On Insulators ATRO makes a kit that has all the bolts and pads. Should be good there. I’m paying the guy helping me but he is also a friend. He will be out of pocket for a few weeks but we should get this down last week in March. Mark T that’s what makes me a little hesitant. It’s a gamble and I know it. The money ain’t a problem because I have already set it aside. I’m OCD and know I will do it right. If we end up with a bad bar or saddle’s then we are over our head. I will be calling Axle surgeons of Arkansas. Think I’m going try it. It may even be fun and I definitely learn a few things.

Yes sir I purchased it thinking I had to replace bushings. The black insulators look good but I can see where one of the T’s have rubbed the box. Going replace them also with ATRO poly

Mechohaulic it has grease zerks on outer top but the drivers has broken off so I’m betting it hasn’t seen grease in a long time You thinking taking off cap, nut with bolt, two washers and check for up and down movement

The wheels walk I have driven it backwards with the bed up. Have not made a sharp turn with the bed up. Tie rods bushings are coming out. I have two that are in line with drive shaft. I have to pull the big dump cylinder to have it repacked. I have a 32,000 lb excavator. I wondering if I shouldn’t take that dump bed off before I do all of this. After I release the big cylinder and hoses nothing holding it on but two pins at the rear. Take them out and lift that bed off. I can take a video of driving it backwards with turning tight radius and showing how much it walks out. It will be next week when I’m down there. macks so I understand your process place jack under say drivers trunion. Jack up till both sets of tires are off the ground? Then wedge big bar between springs and frame and check for movement.

Ok I understand it looks like I will know when it gets tore down. Looks like I’m going to need to inspect those bushings and hope like hell it’s all good. My older friend is a welder/fabricator. The area sees a lot of log trucks but for some reason not a lot of Mack’s in our area. Thanks for the input.

And yes Macks I did think that I could replace the bronze bushing with a polyurethane bushing. After talking with ATRO he explained to me that ATRO didn’t make a poly bushing to replace the bronze original. If I understand you correctly your saying there is no poly replacement and it has to be replaced with original bronze bushing.

I was going to assist a older gentleman that has done a few in the past. I like to at least have some knowledge of what’s going on. I didn’t see any cracks in bar where they enter the saddle on inside of truck. I’m really hoping those saddle’s and bar are not needing replaced. I’m hoping all that’s needed is to replace the bushings and pads. Truck has always been in Arkansas so rust shouldn’t be an issue. I may call axle surgeons of arkansas Monday and see if they know of a qualified spring shop that has done a lot of mack Trunnion. I think we can do the swap if it’s just a bushing exchange but probably going be out gunned if bar and saddle has to be replaced. Can you guys offer me any idea on how to check and see how bad Trunnion is. Or is this something that will not be known until everything is off and your looking at the bare bar.

When I purchased this rd I knew the Trunnion needed replaced. I read where a lot of people had replaced their Trunnion with polyurethane. I was able to reach out to ATRO to see what was available for my truck. Jay at ATRO said they didn’t have a replacement for the bronze bushings and as far as he knew I would need to go with them. Has anybody here changed out bronze to polyurethane and if so what company did you use. Rear suspension is 44,000

I try and support my local Mack dealer but man they are just to high on those parts. Window regulator is 120.00, RD air filter is 99.00. I look on line and see doorman has the regulator for 59.00 and of course a lot of different options on air filter but most are half price. Guess I’m just a little tight and wanting to vent.

Moparmike !! Check your pm. I sent you one about a question you asked in the past on your RD688

Thank you Onyx610. Your time is appreciated. Yours to JoJo.

When I try to add a photo I get the message my file is to large. The photo is taken with iPhone. I have uploaded photos before from phone without getting this error. Anybody have a clue what’s going on.