41chevy

After you check the bulbs or LEDs check the grounds for those lights too.

When all is said and done and the engine is running, when it's time to lay it up for the winter use an engine storage fogger kit and be sure to seal up any opening to the engine... exhaust pipe outlet, carb and even the breather / road draft tube. so this will not happen again. For all of my collector cars, Motorcycle and trucks here is what I do. Picked up this tip from both Hot Rod Magazine and Hemmings Motor News I slide a pvc pipe cap over my exhaust with a thin bead of bath tub silicon to seal it up, carb I use a Tupperware bowl that fits snug on the top, with the wing-nut to hold it on. You need to prevent as much condencation from entering as you can. Probably the most important step is to Fog the engine. With the gas use a fuel stabilizer specifically made for storing the Ethanol fuel. This article explains in layman terms the whys and what fors and Donts of Fogging a gas engine. Paul http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/buying-maintenance/tips/a24534/winter-storage-getting-your-engine-all-oil-fogged-up/

If you have a MACK Dealer near you, they have the Mags. Paul

Remove all the rust and scale you can including as much by the piston / cylinder area that you can. Soak it for a few weeks with Diesel or Kerosene, that usually with free it up enough to use a block of oak and a dead blow hammer and drive it out. There is an other method but I would never use it on an engine in a vehicle... 1 cup ATF, 1 cup Gasoline fill cylinder and light it off. Let it burn out and cool over night. The expansion from heat and cooling generally free the rusted rings. Fire and the engine being in the truck are a no no. Paul

It's big because only "old" people can read a magazine and we all need glasses and loose things.

Now, now. It's terrible to pick on one of "O"s people. DC is till a great place to visit, especially the Smithsonian and the Gerber Faciltiy / Air and Space Museum. The U.S. Patent Museum is also an interesting place to go to. Can't fly though, as a combat veteran, we are all on the DHS and TSA "watch lists" an we all get an extra look over. Paul

Cluouseau will get to the bottom of the spammers. . .

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/27990-trouble-code/ I understand most common causes are a shorted wire or wires to the ECU's There are a pair of wires that are twisted together. That is done to cut down or eliminate frequeny interferene from other systems. The link above give a few tips to look for, including miss matched processors. I'll stick with my pre computerized units.

That is a late 1950's Class I Unlimited Hydroplane. Most at the time powered by Hot Rodded Rolls Royce, Packard or Allison V-12 Aircraft engines of 2000 or more horse power. The race on an oval course 5 to 10 at a time. These would run 100 to 125 mile per hour.

Every body have a healthy and safe Easter. My rabbits and lamb are all dressed and ready for dinner after their Club Westinghouse vacations. Paul

Can't burn anything here except Charcoal in the grill. . . for now. Even that is iffy

Might have posted this one before. . . Don't know.

Larry's is a virgin system, never been charged and still has normal atmosphere in it. Once the system is charged with R12 or 133A NEVER use shop air in it, Don't mix the r12 /r134a oils either. .

Air pressure will work fine, 20 -30 psi, system operates at pressure any how. First make sure the Schrader valves are tight..

I recall reading the similar aero package California requires (which include low rolling resistance tires) only starts beicoming effective over 63 mph and savings come in a 68 mph.

Sure all the tin foil hats at the truck stop aren't scrambling you signal??

Where's the rods and fish????

Here is a real rarity. This Mack Truck is a Model B-405 firetruck. 50 were ordered by the government in 1958. They were built by Mack with a Chrysler hemi engine, Dodge wheels and a 5-speed transmission. Nine were left over and sold to fire departments. This particular truck came from New York B Model Fire Truck Production B-20 58 1 F B-21 57 9 F B-405 55-58 9 CF B-475 56-58, 61 42 CF B-505 54-58, 64, 66 48 F, FSW B-75 54-63 54 F B-795 56 1 F B-85 54-66 455 F, FA, FC, FCD, FD, FT, FSW B-95 54-66 236 F, FD, FMD B-125 54-58, 60, 63-66 53 F, FC 908 total MACK fire truck combinations:The good guys at the Mack Museum and Harvey Eckart had to do some “head scratchin” on these CF - fire truck with Chrysler Corp. drive train FA - aerial ladder fire truck FC - fire truck chassis without fire body. This designation started in 1965 FCD - fire truck chassis with diesel engine without fire body FD - fire truck with diesel engine. This designation started in 1964 FMD - don’t have a clue. Only built in 1963 FSW - six wheel (tandem axle) fire truck. This designation started in 1958 for fire trucks but had been used in trucks prior to the B model series. FT - fire truck tractor. This designation started in 1965 but fire truck tractors were also built before this date.

Why not save it to favorites??

Couple of kilo's heavier than this "table" I guess

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/12906-b42p-2-speed-differential/

Gee! After it is all redone and detailed I put it in my living room as a piece of art work!! Excellent work on it. Paul

http://www.oldmacksrus.com/production_numbers.htm MODEL # Years Made # Produced Chassis B Model Fire Truck Production B-20 58 1 F B-21 57 9 F B-405 55-58 9 CF B-475 56-58, 61 42 CF CF - fire truck with Chrysler Corp. drive train

Ashby Brake and Truck repair, Richmond.

I personally think it's a neat project. I agree on the choices Maint1 gave you. Remember one thing, it's your truck , you are the only one you have to please. Paul