farmer52

"Back in the day" I had fleets use a vampire/suction pump and clean tubing if not at an oil change. The sample bottle attached to the pump and the UO was drawn into the bottle with the pump. You need two (2) bottles, one to purge the line (about 1/2 bottle) and the second (clean/new) for the actual sample. Remember to use the tubing only ONCE and then trash.

When I changed the oil in 2012 I had access to Chevron at my friend's farm in OH and it was "priced right". Personally I prefer Rotella but I think either one is a good oil.

I did not realize the PS pump is connected to the air compressor.

As far as I know, either horn (Hadley or Grover) could be spec'd/ordered. The "standard" horn may have been Hadley (rectangular).

Being a retired "oil expert", I recommend taking a yearly oil sample. That will determine if and when you need to change the oil. Something to consider, if the truck is only used for parades, short trips, etc. the engine and oil do not get hot enough for long enough time to drive off moisture and other contaminants. I must admit the oil/filters in my MH were changed in May 2012 and still running without an oil change (about 7K miles). However, when I run the MH to shows, it is for several hours so the engine/oil do get hot. When it comes out of winter "hibernation" in 2017, O/F change is scheduled. BTW, currently has Chevron Delo 15W-40 but will get Shell Rotella T 15W-40 in the spring. Personally I am not a believer in using synthetic engine oil unless there is a valid reason why you need it (cold and extremely hot operating environment for example). I do however recommend synthetic lube for transmission and rear axles. Bottomline...used oil analysis is your friend. Just my 2 cents.

The local ATCA Chapter (Keystone) is planning an excursion the end of April 2017. Looking forward to visiting the Museum.

Larry, Can you use the current headliner for a pattern, or is it too far gone?

I use Sears Die Hard and Schumacher battery maintainers during the winter months on my trucks, cars, tractors, garden tractors, and golf cart. You can buy them on sale for less than $20. The Die Hard maintainers last at least 5 years. Just started using the Schumacher. The MH uses three (3) 12V batteries connected in parallel. I disconnect the single battery and hookup a maintainer. The double batteries I connect the maintainer to the positive post of one battery and the negative post of the second battery.

Roll Hauler is hibernating for the winter. Filled the tank with fuel and connected the battery maintainers. As I mentioned, no more air leaks this year. Not concerned as long as the air stays up while I am driving. I am just a frustrated old engineer. I drove it over five (5) years with "major" leaks. 2017 will be its 25th birthday so I am going to put Historical plates on it. Then hopefully I will not need to be concerned about the DOT.

Yes, made headway on the leak issue. This year I replaced both air tanks and installed some check valves but wet tank still leaks down. Otherwise holds air in the secondary and main tanks. Did not hold air before. My Christmas list is short and I don't need the MH for a couple lumps of coal. It spent 20 years outside and running in the snow and salt so it deserves a covered resting place during the winter months. Now if I could only find a shed for the trailer.

Final update for 2016... Bent the gladhand "retainer" on the trailer. Seems to fit tighter. Checked the compressor supply line fittings and no leaks. Also checked the governor "feedback" line and no leaks either. The Roll Hauler goes into winter storage on Thursday. So no more checks/updates until 2017. Thanks to all for your suggestions to resolve the leaks.

Ron, Well wishes going your way. Get better so we can chow down at a stuffit buffit!

I am in the area but without the MH. I plan to be at Gerhart's after noon Friday to help if needed.

Larry, In addition I am thinking you might be getting air in the fuel system. Check your fittings and lines on the upstream (suction) side of the transfer pump. A fuel gauge on the supply side is a good tool.

A few of my favorites... Maint1 - I hope my drool will wipe off the 3408.

Here ya go Gregg...

Weather forecast is showing rain showers Turdsday thru Saturday. Unless the forecast changes I will not be bringing the MH but will be there to support the show/club.

I don't do tabaco, will plain spit work? I am using the red and blue nylon seals with the stainless steel screen insert. The supply (red) seems to be loose. I will try tightening the clamp. I do not have an air dryer. Truck was not spec'd with one. I have a check valve at the wet tank inlet with the SS line from the compressor connected to it. The wet tank leaked down within a couple hours before the valve was installed and it STILL leaks down. The LH tank has a check valve at the inlet port and the line from the wet tank is connected to the valve. I am not loosing air in the secondary or LH tanks overnight. MOF, the pressure after two (2) days was about 70psi.

Never thought about the cab air bags. But that does not explain why the wet tank leaks down within a few hours (even with a newly installed check valve). Can anyone recommend good quality gladhand seals? Or are they all the same. I been using white lithium grease on the seals.

Well the air leak saga continues. On Wednesday afternoon I installed a check valve at the inlet of the wet tank. Thursday morning before I left for Winchester, NO AIR IN WET TANK! It leaked down overnight even with the check valve. I pumped up the air and did a quick soapy water check but did not see any bubbles. Driving to Winchester, the air compressor cycled every 10 minutes. So I concluded I STILL have an air leak with the trailer connected. Today (Saturday) before I departed Winchester, I pumped up the air and did a more thorough check with soapy water. No bubbles at the check valve tank connection but saw some bubbles at the trailer air supply gladhand. I did not hear any air leaks at the back of the trailer (brakes or air bags). I checked the gladhand seal and reattached the gladhand making sure it was snug. On the return trip to the farm, the air did not leak down as rapidly. I estimate at least 30 minutes between cycles. Need to try different gladhand seals but still puzzled why the wet tank leaks down even with a check valve. Stay tuned...

Back at the farm. Great show. Over 300 vehicles. Weather was warm on Thursday and Friday but cooler today (Saturday). Saw other dog, Underdog, maint1, and mhfred. BTW, I "roughed" it two (2) nights. Slept on the sleeper mattress in the trailer. Best sleep I had in months!

Ron, You had me worried (not about the eating part) but they were closing. I just called and they are still open for business. As for the all you can eat stuffit buffit....Les helped too. And I remember seeing a blue mini-Mack sitting in the parking lot!

You lookin' for Amish gals dressed in kilts? No Kilt but lots of good food...Lititz Family Cupboard, Hershey Farm, Oregon Dairy, and Good 'n Plenty to name a few. Don't forget the Clam Bake on Friday night at Gerhart's, you will not go away hungry. Vinny, How many times have we told you...stay away from wimmin!

Doug, Cancel the order for rain this year!

I remember a story about this MH or another RHD MH from a Mack ED&TC engineer. When they drove the truck on the highways around Allentown, people would do a double take when seeing the passenger on the left side sitting with their feet up on the dash.