MorrisMe

I know this is an older post but can anyone help point me in the direction of where the bleeder valve is located? I cannot find it anywhere protruding from the unit in the truck. do I need to disassemble the unit to get to the bleeder?

Mine were both Positive ground. How did I know? Since they came that way, I checked the diameter of the cable post, and they fit positive post to the grounded cable, negative post diameter fit the starter side cable, so I knew that was how the last battery was installed. Not really sure there is any advantage to switching it over unless a guy was determined and really wanted to go to all the trouble. Maybe I would do it if I was going to install lots of modern electronics.

Ok, here is the finding of the truck and pulling it home, with first start up and drive. longer video with the surprise at the end. My son did this video for me to share with all you Mack guys. He wants to do more of these and we have lots of work to do still.

So here is what it is supposed to look like. pictures from the Seattle antique fire department.

yes I did, I will be happy to email this info to you.

So you are correct, and that is what has me the most concerned. No the water inlet / outlets on the side of the truck were not covered, however they do have the Grates / screens over the main inlets. the tank was covered, and the drains are all open, so I really do not know what is in there. I didn't want to turn it without knowing whats inside. Flushing water through there may be a good idea, but it may also push crap into the pump, I was hoping that there was am inspection cover that would let me get a better feel for what I am dealing with. I do have a long bore scope that I will fish into the inlet and see what I can see.

Recently picked up this truck and would like to see if the pump is working, but I don't want to turn it without knowing about it or what to do to test and try it before turning it. any suggestions would be good. It has the 1500 pump. Water drain is removed, and everything looks good from the outside, just not sure about the internals and where to begin.

Yeah it definitely has the bass, you can just feel it hitting on each cylinder. No need for throttle when moving around, plenty of torque.

Man it's amazing every time I start it. Here is another photo of the twins

Here is a picture of the twins.

Starting up for the first time. Took a little while to get the fuel flowing. Here's a link to YouTube my son posted for better quality.

Excellent, Nice truck! Thanks for the picture, That is it.

Well number two is also up and running, although after about two minutes of running I blew a oil line. My son did take a "startup video" of it and when he gets it finished I will post it. Ran beautiful and smooth once it got fuel. Anyone know which Dog emblem I need to buy to fit the hood? I purchased some B-Model dog emblems for the hood but they are too small and angled up, the hood outline of the Dogs are standing flat and about 2" bigger.

I agree with all the above as well, and since you rebuilt the engine that would eliminate your block and heads being plugged up (provided the block and heads were hot tanked). Exhaust valves should have been replaced / reground, and new exhaust gaskets ect, (example: running with a bad exhaust valve could cause burnt piston). Sounds like you have addressed all of this. So... Too lean fuel mixture = hot combustion. Factory carburetor, are you sure this is the right carb? retarded timing = hot exhaust valve and manifold. Combination of both = extra heat. only other thing could be head gasket. I am not familiar with this engine but is it possible that the head gasket is on backwards or upside down, not allowing sufficient / improper cooling in the head? Stock from the factory engine and carburetor should all perform correctly and drilling jets / pulling choke would only be a bandaid for actual problem in most books not actually fixing the real issue. If the carburetor was at it's maximum flow capability from the factory then a .040 overbore could be overtaxing your fuel delivery. (requiring jetting and usually air flow as well. check fuel pump pressure, all factory fuel lines / filters, to make sure fuel is being supplied in the correct amount.

It is an amazing truck, the second one is looking good on the path to being a runner, I changed the oil and filters today, (All looked good for sitting so long) and added a mechanical oil gauge in the engine bay, cleaned up the points and fixed some wiring connectors on the coils, cleaned up the starter (bendix was stuck) now it's rolling over nice and smooth. Ran a bore scope to check the cylinders out, everything is looking real nice. Tomorrow new plugs and carb clean up, I will try and post how it goes.