Trumbull_welding

And absolutely I’ll do that when I wrap up here this site is fantastic!

Actually I’m realizing I’m on the exhaust and the slop I’m feeling is in the spring so I may have jumped the gun as I went over the rest feel ok should I be able to collapse the spring on the exhaust side?

Welp I believe I’m gonna be dealing with some bent push rods here I was trying to post the short clip I took but I’ve got to figure out how to clear up space in my attachments first any tips going forward greatly appreciated with both the engine and clearing attachments lol -Chris

There both identical and top out is marked the same on both same part number and they lay the same if placed one atop the other but perfect I’ll install with one that’s what I figured should’ve been the case just not used to being given a spare it even says quantity 2 on the packaging

Thank you! Another question for you guys the gasket for the oil filter housing for this truck came with two of the same gasket would either of you happen to know if I’m supposed to use both gaskets I don’t see why it would use both but also no idea why they’d have two in the same package if not thanks in advance -Chris

Yes sir it’s an AC427 ASET 3 ecu plugs 1 big 2 small and the only thing that should be pushing oil through like that would be the oil pressure sensor correct? And if so I could just pull two new wires through the harness? And thank you for the diagrams thats perfect -Chris

Not yet I’m going to do get under the valve cover this morning have you ever seen oil get up through a wiring harness like that I can’t think of any other way the oil would have gotten there. Id like to find a pin diagram of that plug to try and narrow down the possible culprit. Thank you again in advance you’re always a huge help! -Chris

Alright gentlemen here’s the story with this one, The truck was run out of fuel, they started it with a ton of ether, it ran away for a short period of time (under 30 seconds) it’s got a miss now, I’ll type the codes I pulled below there all memory codes at the moment. I pulled the cam sensor and found metal on the end of it possibly from a failing throw out bearing which could obviously cause a rough idle, I disconnected the main plug harness going into the injection module and found engine oil inside the plug, on the module. Is it possible the oil pressure sensor failed and oil got pushed through the wire and up to the module? I have no idea how else I’ll could get up there which seams to be where the oil filter housing meets the block injector cyl 1: MID (128 ):Injection ECU, SID:1, FMI (8):Signal frequency, Count:15 33038: MID(128):Injection ECU, SID:270, FMI (5): Low current or open circuit 33037: MID(128):Injection ECU, SID:269, FMI (7):Wrong answer from mechanical system, Count:15 Injector cyl 2: MID (128):Injection ECU, SID:2, FMI (8):Signal frequency, Count:15 camshaft sensor: MID(128):Injection ECU, SID:21, FMI (2): Wrong or intermittent data,Count: 15. turbocharger 1 speed:MID(128):Injection ECU, PID:103, FMI (1):Value under standard, Count:1 engine speed:MID (128):Injection ECU, PID: 190, FMI (2): Wrong or intermittent data ,Count: 1 SAE J1708/1587 data bus:MID (128):Injection ECU, SID: 250, FMI (8):Signal frequency, Count:1

Sorry for the slow response I’ll be getting back to this truck in the next day or so I’ve got another Mack that ran away and is now missing I’ll probably start a thread on that one later I’ll get you guys all the engine info on this one tonight I believe it’s an mp7 and yes defiantly a gu I was only able to break the seal on the the outlet side of the egr cooler the pipe that crosses over the front of the engine won’t allow me to get it off enough to look inside

Evening all, I have a I’m working on a 2007 gu713 engine is using coolant and has exhaust gas present in the coolant I’m looking to see if anyone has a way to determine between a failed egr cooler or head gasket without removing the egr. I loosened the clamp on the boot off the egr and stuck a screwdriver in to brake the seal to see if I had any sign of coolant in the exhaust side which I didn’t just looking to save the time and effort if there’s a way to test with it still on the truck thanks in advance! Chris

Hahaha I coulda gone for a beer and sorry had some other trucks to work on too but yes sir that one is all set thank you very much !

No sir didn’t lose prime just bleed back to the tank I guess it fired right off and no bubbles I was worried it was gonna be an injector I’ll let it run for a few and make sure it dosent start with any bubbles then shut down and make sure nothing leaks back

Seals and check valve looked ok they didn’t have a double gasket stuck under the filter I gave it a new filter and o-rings and changed the check valve the fuel looks clean I did notice a black film on the inside of the metal portion of the filter housing I’ll add few pictures here. Dumping some fuel in now and trying to fire it..also when I got to the truck today the housing was draind down to about an inch below the inlet port in the housing

Got the parts headed to give it a shot now I’ll keep you posted thank you sir -Chris

I believe all it has is the Davco filter housing in the video above no separate fuel water separator.

IMG_0020.MOV Good evening all, Working on 2007 Mack CV713 they’ve been running the truck it looses power, upon filter change the truck runs better but eventually bogs down again, its a very hard prime and once running you can see bubbles in the clear fuel filter housing and the bubbles do continue after the truck is shut down what is the best way to test the fuel system to pin point the area causing the issue. Tanks do not appear to be dirty, bubbles in the drivers side tank i be leave is from the return line spraying into the tank and aerating from the stream not necessarily from air in the fuel, and there’s no visible leak around the primer pump, have not yet checked any check valves. Any help or advice on how to best proceed is greatly appreciated hope you are all well. Thank you- Chris

Good afternoon everyone, I’ve got a 2006 Mack cv713 smoking white with a loss of power and rough running truck throws a code for injector three so we swapped the eup for cylinder three and found no change codes the truck currently has I will attach to this and post below.

Good evening, Just wanted to reach out for all those who answered me here and helped me out or anyone who is following along. *update* The company has parked the truck for the time being, they had a few breakdowns and some pm i had to take care of, i currently have one or two larger projects to wrap up with them. I’m hoping to be starting the rebuild in the next 1-2 months in the mean time if you guys would be willing I’d love to start getting together any of the Mack specific tools ill need to get this done i know i need the H-Ring tools you’ve outlined above are there any other necessary tools needed or even non necessary tools that will make the job easier? Thank you all again in advance! -Chris

Good afternoon gents, I’m looking for procedures and torque values for both injector replacement as well at full valve adjustment on both the E7 and the MP7, as well as any special tooling that may be involved. I’m not as familiar with Mack engines as I am others so any help you guys could lend me Is more than appreciated. Also I’m wondering if there’s any specific trouble shooting that can be done determining weather an injector is faulty or just a solenoid. Would you just do a buzz test and then move on to the injector? Thanks in advance! -Chris

Thank you all again for all the info I do have experience rebuilding mostly Cummins or older cat this will be the first Mack motor and it looks like the customer is leaning toward doing an in-frame I’ll keep you posted on a start date for this project and etc.. -Chris

Thank you all for the responses. Joey Mack- How would I check the h-rings? Just checking for hight and orientation and compair to other cylinders? Do the heads need to be removed to check? Obviously they would need to be removed to replace. And your saying those rings would be inside the valve rotators? Also the rocker shaft has a hairline fracture/crack i apologize I failed to include that before..I was also leaning toward head replacement. No I have not dealt with h-ring inspection or replacement. My understanding is it would be a press fit is there somewhere I could find a procedure for correct sizing and replacement? 67RMODEL- correct it was the same valve and to my knowledge no other valves were adjusted whatsoever

Here’s the rest of the pictures it only let me post 3. Here the contents of the oil pan after removed and an unfortunately not so good picture of the cam

Good morning all, I’m new to this site and this is my first post I am a mobile heavy equipment mechanic and welder I’m happy to have the opportunity to share this with y’all and hopefully someone here has seen something like this before… so here’s what’s going on first of it’s a 2000 Mack RD690S Vin 1M2P264CXYM030963 197,000 miles So this truck is one of many I do service work on during an oil change about 4 weeks ago on the plug magnet I got a few small round pieces of metal only way I can think to describe them is if you took the spring from a pen and cut it into a bunch of small metal rings I’ll attach pictures below… I notified the company of my findings and they continued to run the truck there mechanic told me it was running rough and he adjusted one of the rockers a little tighter which cleared it up it went another week or so and developed a rough idle again to which there mechanic again tightened down the same rocker more, now to me this would go to say that the cam is being eaten up. The truck again went back on the road and this time came back with a bent push rod and a broken rocker on the number 3 cylinder I will attach pictures below in order being 1 the metal components found on the magnet, bent pushrod and broken rocker / broken rocker pieces, contents of oil pan after pan dropped and cleaned out, and lastly a not so good picture of a cam lobe with a chip missing. I hope someone here has seen this before and can help me figure out what these pieces in the oil are, also would you guys throw on a reman head, cam shaft and new push rods or replace rockers on the current head in place and replace cam and push rods, I’m also concerned to do all the work with this mystery part still possibly breaking down and dumping these rings in to the engine possibly to just cause the same issue again. Thank you all in advance for you help I look forward to chatting with you all soon. -Chris