dayradebaugh

I will check the numbers on the engine next week. Will be looking for ENDT 675, making it a Maxidyne. I will also check the number of spin-on filters. If there are 2, it has the smaller oil pan, which should require about 32 qts. If it has 3, it has the larger pan and would need 56 qts. (See Does anyone have a proper dipstick for a 237 Maxidyne they'd be willing to sell? If all this reasoning is correct, I think it is likely that it would be the smaller pan version.

From what little I can find on the 'Net, the number I supplied above does not look right. Where would I find the engine number on a 237-vintage engine? Thanks

Would you happen to know if there is a website where you can check your engine number and find a parts list?

I have a B81-SX with what I believe to be a 237 Maxidyne. The engine number is 239GB5354. The dipstick in the engine is obviously for some other engine, because it reads way Overfull when I add 32 qts oil. Any suggestions about where I might find the correct dispstick? If this is truly a 237 Maxidyne, I believe they came with 2 different sizes of oil pans. Thanks

Many thanks for the vid; You're pretty smooth in that video; nice job. I'll be studying this. Years ago bought a VHS tape about 2-stick shifting, that got me going. Set up a couple of broomsticks in the living room, as I recall to practice. Vid was from Bill Comcowich. Can't play the tape anymore. Wouldn't mind some power steering, for sure, but the reading I did on the subject suggested that the air driven systems available as add-ons were troublesome.

Pretty much agree.

Many thanks for the advice. I'll practice. The key point I got from your comments was a) shift the compound up and down w/o clutch as you upshift/downshift but b) use the clutch when you have to shift the main. I'm very much enjoying driving that truck, and have huge respect for those guys who did it day in and day out. But those days are done for. I live on a farm, and there's a young man who comes around and helps us out now and then. He wants to be a truck driver, and is preparing to go off to CDL school. However, when I offer to show him how to drive my various rigs, he won't do it, because they aren't automatic, some don't have power steering, and none are air conditioned. It's a new world out there.

Problem with brakes was easy to find. Apparently aliens came out and removed the line from the quick release valve to the right front brake. Reinstalled it, everything okey-dokey. Tried winding up the 237 to close to 2100 to facilitate shifts from 2 HI-3 HI-4 HI-5 HI but I didn't think the engine liked it much. Sounded like the valves were floating, or what I imagined to be floating valves. Perhaps more accurate to say that the power in the engine dropped dramatically at about 2000. In any case, I think the whole sequence worked well from 2 LO-2 DIRECT-2 HI-3 DIRECT-3 HI-4 DIRECT-4 HI-5 HI. In other words, splitting in 2, 3, & 4 across DIRECT & HI. I must say that the truck runs like a champ, although I don't know that I'd care to make my living in it, or drive cross country, but plenty of guys did quite nicely. The shifts in the compound of course are dead easy without clutch. To shift both boxes, have to use clutch, as follows. Upshift is Main box first, compound 2nd. Downshift is the reverse. Does this sound reasonable? Thanks

I think I have a helper for tomorrow, so that's Job #1.

That's pretty wild. Going to have to think that one through before trying it. Maybe clear the area?

Exactly the plan.

Drove it around on the weekend. I was pretty happy with 2nd Direct, 2nd HI, 3 HI, 4HI, 5 HI. However, did notice a) had to use clutch on shifts; b) it was a significant jump in these 3-4-5 HI range shifts. I googled the effective range of the 237 that I have in this truck, and learned you can safely wind it up to 2100, so I believe I'll wind it up a bit more when I try this again. Also noticed that, when I put brakes on (such as at a stoplight) air pressure leaked out and tank pressure dropped from about 118 max to below 60. Truck then started sliding backwards, which was heart-stopping, until I kicked in the spring brake and sat and let pressure build again. Something to fix underneath, I believe.

That's good advice, thanks. It's time to get in the saddle and try out some of these options. This discussion has been very valuable in one particular way: I've realized that I've been spending too much time in the lower gears getting going, and maybe even splitting in the higher gears as well. Going to forget about LO-LO, and get into the higher gear shifting sequence at about 2nd HI or 3 LO, and take it from there. The nice thing about this particular quad is that it's so easy to shift the compound, at least after it's warmed up. Appreciate the advice.

How about 3 (LO/DIRECT/HI), 4(LO/DIRECT/HI), then 5 HI?

Many thanks for this information. I believe I get it now: 1. I lose LO-LO across 3, 4 and 5 in the main. Minus 3 gears, down to 17. 2. 5 LO is useless, since you've been there already with 4 DIRECT. Down to 16 3. 5 DIRECT redundant to 4 HI. Down to 15 4. 2 LO-LO gone as well, so down to 14 effective gears. Conclusion: 1. Forget about LO-LO unless loaded; 2. Unloaded , option 1: 2(LO/DIRECT/HI), 3(LO/DIRECT/HI), 4(LO/DIRECT/HI), then 5 HI--unnecessary, if unloaded 2:2(DIRECT/HI), 3(DIRECT/HI), 4(DIRECT/HI), then 5 HI--also unnecessary, if unloaded 3:1 (HI), 2(HI), 3(HI), 4(HI), then 5 HI--perfectly OK 4. Better yet: 1 (HI), 2(LO/DIRECT/HI), 3 (HI), 4 (HI), then 5 (HI)--a little easier getting going Opinions?