Geoff Weeks

The Constitution applies to everybody here, to do otherwise all a accuser would have to do is claim you are not a citizen, deny due process and wisk you out the country. Without going to court you have no way to dispute their allegations. Citizenship would then be meaningless. There are ways to deport correctly, yes it takes time, but it is the only way to uphold the rights we hold dear. This is not the same as someone at the boarder trying to gain entry, there are far less protections for anyone, citizens included, entering from outside. Even as a citizen, you don't have restrictions on searches, even very invasive ones that would not be permitted once you are in country. We are hearing more and more accounts of citizens being told to "self-deport" in E mails, so it is obvious we can not trust them to "get it right" the only thing preventing them from deporting these citizens is the constitution and you want that suspended?

If you don't understand the Constitution, Then there is not much I can do to explain. May be if you were picked off the street and wisked away in the night to a foreign country, it would help explain it to you. I have no idea what the man in question is or isn't, I do know that he had a court order preventing what happened, and has not been given the chance of a defense. We have seen citizens detained without charge, that they want to deport. We have a system that allows the accused to defend them selves from any charge, when you take that away, we are no better than the worse countries on this globe. If you have charges, bring them to a court. Not only does ICE make mistakes, they are not and can not be the sole arbriture of their accusations.

Nope, car engines are not run near full output all day long. Truck use is far different. Try running that car at 3/4-full throttle for 10 hrs a day and then tell me it is the same. I have put mine through pull for 45min full throttle at speeds below 25 MPH, what car does that? Trucks require airflow for the ATA,condenser, and radiator, all are independent needs. My '83 originally had a viscus drive and it was missing when I bought the truck (fan driven all the time). I had a 6.9 service truck that had a viscus fan and you could hear it lock up and unlock during the day. I was pushing that truck hard, 12Klbs for the truck and towed a tandem axle trailer also, It didn't get any better fuel mileage than the L 10 semi either, but the semi was moving 4x the weight and much more wind resistance. Viscus can work, but it wouldn't be my 1st choice. On my 83 I went with a Horton, because I had one handy. I've had good luck with Bendix, and it would be my 1st choice, as it fails safe (no air, spring applied ). Also had an electric clutch (Facet) on a 3406B that worked ok, took small trailer wheel bearings and seals, but parts became hard to come by as they quit making them when "computer contols" came out, The coil would put quite the "kick" back into the electrical system when the relay opened. Kysor front air, can be adapted to any fan drive not drilled for rear air, so is another option for replacing viscus or Facet.

That is not a valid comparison, cars and heavy trucks. How many have I seen, plenty. How many cars have you seen go 3 million miles on the original alternator? My '83 still had the original 26SI when I sold it. Comparing cars to trucks is comparing apples to dog turds.

I have not seen another truck that can cycle the air compressor only ever 45 min while going down the road, pulling an air ride trailer on an air ride tractor. Most I see are under 5min cycle times.

As I said, your money, your choice. It seams like your mind is made up, so go ahead, but report back how it work for you.

Hold on! while it is possible that the Tx valve could have a problem, given what you have said so far, I would find it highly unlikely. When I started doing A/C work, I also heard that maxim to replace the Tx when the system is opened. Experience has taught me different. I have NEVER had a Tx fail other than mechanically. In other words, the fitting or tube connection fail, and a easily inspected without removing. I have seen far more damage done when people try to replace it for no other reason than "the book tells me to when I open the system". I ran some experiments on my own systems, and found that in most cases (all I had) that replacement wasn't necessary. You can tell when they are bad via pressure readings and "superheat" measurements. Given what you have stated so far, the chances the problem is the Tx are much less than 2%. So lets address your problem and diagnose the system. Did you add the correct amount of refrigerant by weight? When you replaced all that stuff, did you add enough oil to the system? What are the pressures now, both static and running pressures? What is the air temp across the condenser? Does the truck have a sleeper unit also? Did you go over the system with a "sniffer" looking for leaks? Does the engine fan come on at some point with the A/C operating? It is far more likely you have a leak than a "stuck"Tx valve. As an experiment, I took one of my systems that was open when I bought the truck (condenser was missing) and had been for at least 10 years, I installed a condenser and rebuilt compressor but DID NOT change the Tx, and it worked just fine! If any Tx was going to stick, it is more likely that one would have. Years later I did change it out when the equalization tube nut rotted off the suction side elbow, the Tx itself still worked.

Probably should have said, most parts are likely available, condenser coil may or may not be, but motors switches resistors should be no problem, anything that is not, there is likely a work a round for it.

While I think the 80's and early 90's were the zenith for equipment reliability, I also remember run a way inflation and high interest rates. It is easy to look back with "rose colored" glasses and only remember the good things. Trucks from the 80's can still be used today, but as far as inflation and interest rates, no thank you.

The blower motors and resistors are really the only thing different between 24 and 12 volt units. Hard to say how a 24 tagged unit ended up on a 12 volt truck. Someone could have replaced a damaged unit with that one and transferred the 12 volt stuff, or someone could have put a 24 volt unit on by mistake, and never fixed it.

Local good machine shop I use, I pay 1.5x what he asks. I know what I am asking him to do, I know I either don't have the skills or equipment (more often equipment) to do the job, and I know what it is worth to me. Most recently, he made a part (2 actually) for a long NLA/obsolete brake caliper. I was going to have it made out of hard-chrome bar stock, he talked me out of it, as the material would have cost much more than the whole job done in stainless. Not only does he do good work, he is a good resource. Original was hard-chrome, but stainless will outlast me. Hard chrome would be best, sometimes you have to look realistically how long it needs to last.

They only list a max Hp of 1.25 Hp for their fan motor. I've pull heavy over the Big Horn mts, 3/4 of an hour wide open at less than 25MPH, Glad I had a mechanical fan drive and didn't find 1/2 way up that the electric couldn't cut it. That is a hard test of any equipment. There is just no way a 3 bladed fan can move the air of a 7 or 9 blade of the same diameter. Now most have a "ring" on the ends of the blades to prevent the air being thrown off the ends of the blades, and the hole shooting match is in a shroud to duct the air flow. This is the place that he is talking about: https://www.electricfanengineering.com/turbine-electric-fans/over-the-road-truck-tractor/ As I stated, no way I'd go down that road.

My air ride truck and trailer would go 45 min running down the hiway between compressor cycles. I am not stranger to eliminating air leaks. Anything less then 15 mins while running down the hiway between cycles and I was looking for leaks. few trucks I have been around can meet or beat that, and mine had air fan clutches, just saying.

Thing I'd want to compare is the free-air CFM of the factory (at rated speed) and the CFM of the electric. I'm not sure where you would obtain the spec's but that is what is important.

"thing is i have four 920ah batteries" That I got to see! I had 4 155 amp/hr batteries for a total of 620 amp/hrs and they all are bigger than the std gp 31 truck batteries. Deep cycle gp 31's are 135 amp/hrs, cranking gp31's would likely be a bit less. I think you are confusing CCA with amp/hrs, they are not the same thing. When an electrical load is placed on the truck, the alternator will take up that load up to the capacity of the alternator, then the batteries start depleting. Converting from rotational belt to electrical and back to rotational is not an efficient process. Fixed RPM means that load is fixed. It also means it can't reduce draw at lower loads and can't increase when needed, like pulling a hill. So when a fan is needed to pull air across the condenser, you'll have only one choice, with an electric fan, where as an engine driven fan can turn slowly at idle,using very little power. A/C compressor use "face seals" to hold in a fix amount of refrigerant at pressures exceeding those of the trucks air system. The older Hortons anyway, not sure on the new stuff, also use face seals for the air. They also use O rings for the piston seals. I find moisture in the air causes most problems, be it with the fan clutch or elsewhere. No mfg of a truck or bus engine relies on an electric fan, that should tell you something right there. On motor coaches where direct belt drive for the fan is not practical, hyd drive is used. Your money, your choice, but wouldn't be mine.