Geoff Weeks

I think it was even later then the 70's, the July 25 1980 according to FMCSA website.

Sorry I didn't see that earlier. I don't think there is a way that would give the factory result, if it would work at all. For 12 volts, I would look at L/N and a SAE #1 mount. I don't know the cost, but you will have something that can be repaired/replaced easily. I am sticking with 6 volt so staying with the old Delco. I did try an new "aftermarket" armature and found them to work well.

I don't think that is correct? What does your old one look like? If needed I can open one of mine and see if my memory is any good.

Do both the "ends" have holes in them to be screwed to the brush holders? If that is the case the center covered in black gets attached to the stud.

Joey, one thing I just noticed, It looks like coils are all in series? IIRC on mine there are two sets of coils, each had a "north and south " in series and the two groups are in parallel, so two coil ends at a brush holder. In your picture I only see one lead that connects to the stud and one end that ends at the brush holder. Either I am not seeing something, or those are different then what I have in the 4 starters of that type I have. It is possible my memory is faulty, but I remember it being different.

It shouldn't get hot, but it can. the surface area where the windings connect to the stud is small. Solder has worked for me, but if I was going to do it over, I would use silver solder. Absolutely necessary? no, my starters are proof of that. I just feel it is worth the effort. It will take future stiff nut threads (from)breaking the soft solder. Where he is putting in new windings, I'd go the extra mile.

The issue /question is can you get the stud in place with the field welded to it? I hadn't pulled my field pole shoes, so there was very little room to work. With the pole shoes out you should a lot more room/options, but I didn't do it that way, I was just trying to repair a connection that had broke loose. With the pole shoes bolted in there isn't enough movement in the ends of the windings to do much more than depress the stud away from the case. So not having done any repair with the pole shoes out, I can't give concrete advice on what is possible.

There isn't a lot of room in there, so I don't think there is a mechanical means to tie them to the stud. I tried propane and found it wasn't hot/concentrated enough. I used my smallest oxy tip and worked fast, but as I said, If I had to do over I'd use a jewelers torch. The way I did it worked, but was less than ideal. some of insulation wrap got hotter than I'd like. Mine still work just fine. Every time I have to crank a bit to prime, I cringe thinking "you dummy, you should have silver soldered it"! I'd "dry fit" the field to the stud then push the stud away from the case and insulator (to minimize the heat transfer to the case) and solder.

Silver Solder is a bridge between brazing and soldering. Silver content can vary with higher silver content having a higher melt point. In this application both the ability to hold the pole windings to the stud when heated and the ability of silver to conduct better then "soft solders" are a benefit.

Joey, If I were to do it over again. I'd buy a "jeweler's" air-acetylene torch and a small tip. You need heat but in a smaller area then the typical oxy-acetylene, and go with silver solder. I think that way you'll have the best chance of a permanent repair regardless of what voltage/current draw passes through the connection. The key is the small, concentrated heat source.

Last I looked brake bolt were still available.

Worse case you can order the raw materials from McMaster-Carr. Brake lining material and rivets.

blank lining can be cut, formed, drilled for rivets, and counter sunk. I used to get brake shoes for the English buses re-lined, and there was no buying pre-made linings for them here. I assume there are still places (likely not as many) that do that. I cut bulk lining and drilled, counter-sunk and riveted brake bands for the semi-auto transmissions in the buses. Worked like a charm.

I have used solder but I suspect silver solder would be better. At least you starting with all new and clean parts.

One thing that came to me after a nights sleep. Have you had the pan off? These old engines with non-detergent oil allowed the sludge to accumulate in the bottom of the pan. The oil pick-up screen was designed to "float" above the bottom. (it actually pivots on its tube). If you haven't had the pan off, I would pull it and clean. On mine I wanted to re-bearing but being as old as it was thought I better look at the bearing size 1st. Dropped the pan and cleaned it out, sparkling clean. I put the pan back and it was a while before I found new bearings (may be a month of running) and was shocked at how much more junk had been washed into the pan again. P.S. 15w-40 works great, just don't try and start it after sitting at -23F all night on 6 volts with that in the sump, like I did. I was moving and we stopped at a motel, and the temp took a nose dive while we were sleeping. We had my Explorer also, so pull started it.