Geoff Weeks

May be not:

Always have, what you did with our medium gassers for so long wouldn't have been attempted with our biggest gassers, 345 in a loadstar pulling a semi OTR. Once you got our big diesels you came up with road-trains. I felt I was "pushing the limit" when I grossed 168-170k with my "normal every day cabover tractor" and didn't do it often. Different world down there.

I had air mufflers on both of mine, and it didn't bother the neighbors when I left early when living in town. Too many like for the "look at me" noise they can make rather than the job they do. Same with un muffled Jake's. I have a 1/2" snap-on air drill that will hurt your ears if the muffleing "wadding" comes out the the handle. No shop would stand for its use that loud. No one is impressed by a loud air drill, nor startled by it in a commercial shop, just annoyed. I think it does more to give the industry a "black eye" with the rest of the world than anything. With a muffler, they sound different then a electric starter but not loud. People may still look because it sounds different then they expect. I never once got a complaint or dirty looks with my trucks starting.

I guess you could say you got the shaft!

Pinion bearings and differential carrier bearing are the only ones I want to see pre-load on. Both are highly loaded when in service, and don't tolerate being too tight or too loose.

I had the CR tools, so that is what I went back with. Others had Stemco and that is what they used.

I am kinda anal about my wheel bearings. 1st I tighten them down to make sure they are seated and not cocked on the spindle (got fooled once in my youth, and never did again). The I want to be as close to zero preload as I can get without any runout. It isn't as easy as it sounds, when you tighten the lock nut it takes the slop out of the threads and makes the bearing a little tight if you set it to zero before you put the lock-nut on. I come across far too many that are too loose, too tight tends to destroy itself in short order.

The tank on my Marmon came from a CCX, it was a replacement for the original Roadway tank that developed a rust hole. I also have a Mack one from Mander's that is aluminum, that one I'm keeping!

Mack uses (as does most if not all heavy diesel) an SAE #3 starter mount. No problem fitting the bell housing. The problem can come if the chassie has the steering box where the new bell has the starter placed. That bell was not used in that chassie, and that is were "real estate" problems come from. I can fit a modern gear reduction 12 volt starter to my 1942 K IHC because it takes an SAE #1 starter. Standardization can be a good thing. There is an SAE #2 starter pad but it hasn't been used in 50 years or so, since the demise of the big gassers. Looks just like an SAE #3 but the bolt holes are smaller and I think closer in.

Looks like someone had Stemco "grit guard" seals on that one. Also looks like the shoe pins need to be replaced/ freed up before that becomes a big task. They already look "frozen" into the spider. Need to knock the "wedding band" off the spindle before putting a new seal on. Since you have the old seal, look on it for the seal number.

Marine sometimes use hyd starters with a big accumulator. If you have an air system or hyd system (most ships have at least hyd, if not both) cranking other than electric makes sense. Ships don't use the hull as "ground" so two wires required to everything. Conway used to have air starters on their trucks, were one of the last large fleets to do so. My contention is with all the power required for a modern electronic engine needs just to run, having cranking powered by some other means didn't bring the advantage it used to. You still need good battery power to get it to run. My Marmon will start and run with no batteries or alternator present. Cummins trucks needed the fuel solenoid powered or the overide screw turn in.

I had a CB as it was almost required for O/D loads for communication with the escort cars. I kept mine around for the weather radio function mine had. even before I did O/D I didn't spend much time on the CB. Some customers wanted CB to bring marshaled trucks in, had to sit in a remote lot until called.

I wonder if this will help? It shows different width V bands sections for different sized bands. Eaton marman clamps It shows as narrow as .192" width.

Yes, if you look at the drawing or if you have the cover off, you'll see when the main piston comes all the way up, a little "pin" that is adjustable, pushes on a little check ball and dumps the hyd pressure to the return so you don't have full hyd pressure on the steering that is "bottomed' against its stops. It is the same on the bottom cover. Once the box is on the truck and hooked up, you adjust those relief stops to dump pressure right before the box is hard against the end of travel. You can see when it is apart which way it has to go on when going back with it so the pin is in the right position I was always working by myself, so if I could avoid pulling the whole box, I did. I did do a couple box replacements by myself, and paid the price with my body doing so.

before removing the top cover mark its orientation to the main body, it has to go on so the relief adjusters will hit the relief ball when the box is turned to the end of its travel. A coupla punch marks will help make sure it is on the correct way.