Geoff Weeks

Got curious so looked it up, according to my manual for the 1973, slippery road reduces the pressure to the steer brakes by 50% , so a 30 psi at the treadle would result in 15 psi at the front brake chambers.

The wet/dry road didn't "kill" the front brakes, it reduced the pressure provided to the front by a percent of brake pressure in the system. I don't remember the exact percent, but my '73 and '69 had the manual valve on the dash and a "ratio" valve before the front brakes. Modern trucks have the same thing but is automatic will provide full pressure if the brake pressure rises above a set pressure (60 psi?) and on lighter braking reduces brake pressure to the steer. That is different from when no steer axle brakes, where brakes were not fitted on the hub. Driving a bobtail tractor with no front brakes on the axle on slick roads is a real pucker factor experience. Over the years different things were tried to address the front brake issue. Before the dry/slick manual controlled valve, smaller chambers on the steer (today type 20 is the most common) but that limited braking on dry roads. No front brakes, Larger chambers and either driver selected or automatic limiting pressure were tried. Today automatic reducing valve and large chambers are what is used to meet braking stopping distance requirements, where standards dictate stopping distance loaded and loaded with 1/2 the system inop. Front brakes that can deliver maximum braking force on the steer are the only way to meet these requirements.

How does the CH do dump? In general, there are 3 ways to do it. 1) uses a small air line (pilot air from the dash switch, air controlled) that operates on a level valve with "pneumatic dump feature". 2) switch is electric and operated a solenoid valve between the level valve and bags. 3) is like the 2nd, but operates and air solenoid that supplies pilot air to an air relay valve between the level valve and bags. If you know which system the truck uses, then you can know the weak points and where they can fail. 2nd and 3rd type have a solenoid and wiring down in the salt and muck spray, the electrical portion is the weak link, but the 1st & 3rd can also have a relay valve that is stuck. The "relay" valve is the same one often used on trailers to dump the suspension when the brakes on the trailer are set. I like the 1st design as it is all air operated and less prone to failure from wiring/electrical issues back on the frame.

I think it was even later then the 70's, the July 25 1980 according to FMCSA website.

Sorry I didn't see that earlier. I don't think there is a way that would give the factory result, if it would work at all. For 12 volts, I would look at L/N and a SAE #1 mount. I don't know the cost, but you will have something that can be repaired/replaced easily. I am sticking with 6 volt so staying with the old Delco. I did try an new "aftermarket" armature and found them to work well.

I don't think that is correct? What does your old one look like? If needed I can open one of mine and see if my memory is any good.

Do both the "ends" have holes in them to be screwed to the brush holders? If that is the case the center covered in black gets attached to the stud.

Joey, one thing I just noticed, It looks like coils are all in series? IIRC on mine there are two sets of coils, each had a "north and south " in series and the two groups are in parallel, so two coil ends at a brush holder. In your picture I only see one lead that connects to the stud and one end that ends at the brush holder. Either I am not seeing something, or those are different then what I have in the 4 starters of that type I have. It is possible my memory is faulty, but I remember it being different.

It shouldn't get hot, but it can. the surface area where the windings connect to the stud is small. Solder has worked for me, but if I was going to do it over, I would use silver solder. Absolutely necessary? no, my starters are proof of that. I just feel it is worth the effort. It will take future stiff nut threads (from)breaking the soft solder. Where he is putting in new windings, I'd go the extra mile.

The issue /question is can you get the stud in place with the field welded to it? I hadn't pulled my field pole shoes, so there was very little room to work. With the pole shoes out you should a lot more room/options, but I didn't do it that way, I was just trying to repair a connection that had broke loose. With the pole shoes bolted in there isn't enough movement in the ends of the windings to do much more than depress the stud away from the case. So not having done any repair with the pole shoes out, I can't give concrete advice on what is possible.

There isn't a lot of room in there, so I don't think there is a mechanical means to tie them to the stud. I tried propane and found it wasn't hot/concentrated enough. I used my smallest oxy tip and worked fast, but as I said, If I had to do over I'd use a jewelers torch. The way I did it worked, but was less than ideal. some of insulation wrap got hotter than I'd like. Mine still work just fine. Every time I have to crank a bit to prime, I cringe thinking "you dummy, you should have silver soldered it"! I'd "dry fit" the field to the stud then push the stud away from the case and insulator (to minimize the heat transfer to the case) and solder.

Silver Solder is a bridge between brazing and soldering. Silver content can vary with higher silver content having a higher melt point. In this application both the ability to hold the pole windings to the stud when heated and the ability of silver to conduct better then "soft solders" are a benefit.

Joey, If I were to do it over again. I'd buy a "jeweler's" air-acetylene torch and a small tip. You need heat but in a smaller area then the typical oxy-acetylene, and go with silver solder. I think that way you'll have the best chance of a permanent repair regardless of what voltage/current draw passes through the connection. The key is the small, concentrated heat source.

Last I looked brake bolt were still available.

Worse case you can order the raw materials from McMaster-Carr. Brake lining material and rivets.