Geoff Weeks

Plate on the inside may be because they set it up for double frame, then they only have to spec one rod for single or double frame trucks. My Marmon is that way. Just duplicate the plates you take off, and you'll be good.

Dr. Bill C's Freightshaker.

Fairly sure that is factory. It spreads out the side load on the frame. The distance from the inside of the frame to the axle is the critical one, outside the frame doesn't matter or change anything. Take it off, repair the rust jack and either replace the plate with new steel or re-use if not bad.

I think I can say every day! I can make exceptions for some people, but it is a rare animal that I can't find some good in.

Rory's time was last night. Yesterday we went to the vet for his monthly arthritis shot, then to the dog park for an hr. After dinner he asked to go out. When he didn't ask to come back in 15 min later, I went looking for him. He had gone as far as his long lead would allow into the alfalfa, layed down and expired. He was the 1st I had to choose his time. Mostly I had to make the choice to stop the suffering. Rory didn't seam to be in pain or otherwise suffering. 14 years for a dog of his size is well outside the adv lifespan. Damn, I'm having a tough day today. Rory the day we adopted him, and with my brother's dog.

just disconnect the main lead, that killed it on mine that looked like that.

Many disk crashes ago I had Eaton plumbing for the different slave valves. I could be wrong but I don't think there was an 18 in the chrome knob era. You'll at very least need the range push-pull below the knob, it can't all be done on the chrome knob.

The way I read the note, that number is correct for his engine if built after 1960 or other engines built after 1962, and he need only measure the width of the current bearings to be sure.

does this help?

Anything where parts are getting hard to find, 1st find out what you have before chasing parts. Having a ground crank after chasing std bearings leaves you out money and time. Same goes for machine work, if the crank or bores (on a non lined engine) will clean up at 1st undersize but all you can find is .040, cutting to .010 will be a waste of money. See what you have, then see what you can get, and go from there.

Yeah, that's how they are called here for the most part.

Traction control valve/ABS, as to why it is leaking, well you can't tell that from a picture. 1st thing to do is disconnect the electrical and see if it still leaks, if it does it is the valve, if it doesn't then you have a traction control problem.

You jogged my memory about those. I had forgotten about that. Still, they shouldn't come into play with a tractor towing a trailer. Might be malfunctioning tho.

How old are your drums? (assuming drums not disk). Drum that have seen two sets of shoes are DONE! (One original, when the drum was new and one reline). They make look ok, but are hard and the lining never grips. I always changed drums every other lining change. Makes a huge difference. I assume the same hold true for disks but I have no experience with them. since the treadle valve supplies air to both truck and trailer, it would be less likely to effect only one of the two. Still the "clicking" should be looked into.

I hauled a KW like those to Maine Yankee for Barnhart's decommissioning. IIRC it was 11'8" wide. KW owned Dart for a brief time, so there are a lot of resemblances, between Dart, KW Pacific and even Hayes.