Geoff Weeks

Never used or saw one, but most shops will not have one, just use the time/pressure drop method, but that only tells you there is a leak somewhere. I have a sniffer for both refrigerant and combustible gases, spend your money where the tool will do the most work. I would walk around a truckstop parking lot (taking my dog for a walk) and I would see how many trucks I would "down" just from visual and listening to them while the dog did his thing. It was a large percent every time. One time there was a guy beating on the dunnage under a load of pipe. I asked why? "I'm 1500 over on my trailer axles" Ok, but moving the dunnage isn't going to change that! He almost threw the sledge at me, told me I didn't know jack! Rory and I walked on, he was still beating on that dunnage an hour later!

Lots of connection points on multiple or modular trailers. More tanks and valves to leak. Then there are a air snubbers on the pintle hitch, the valve to control them etc. I towed some jeep, trailer stinger set-ups, they had less valving then triple wiggle wagons with converter dollies.

Yep, everything is all new only once. The leak-off rate while going down the road (measured by time between compressor cycles) is a fairly good indication of system health. The rest can be diagnosed by applying the item is question and seeing how much air is "used". I bet 85-90% of trucks couldn't go 45 min between cycles while running down the road. 60% couldn't make 30 min.

Ah, a potato harvester! (around here no permit required for "farm equipment") so...

Do you have a cylinder chain vise and a HEAVY work table to bolt it to? without those it is impossible to repair some cyl.

I have trucks that will hold some pressure overnight Like 25 psi left. The real test of a system is how many minutes it will go between compressor cycles while going down the road. Best truck I had, truck and trailer on air ride, air wipers, would go 45 minutes between cycles of the air drier. Anything less the 15 minutes and you have work to do. I haven't seen an air system that will hold for several days on the main system. My air start would hold enough air to start for 4 weeks, but the main system will be empty.

Na, it is beacuse if you are a rookie, and trying to pull the loaded trailer with parking brakes on, you need full power available!

Late 2000 teens, I had a recore on my 9670, and it cost $2150.00so not at all surprised by your figure. It wasn't the biggest radiator IHC put in that truck either. I'm sure the biggest would be close to what you paid. add $400 to that price for the used radiator I bought to start the project.

It would seam so, you don't see wrecker like those running the roads of Michigan where trains can run up to 160K and permit loads above that. What is the justification for a rig like that in Conn?

Well I think you have to start with Bolt type chambers or clamp type? Then there is the issue of clearance. Both have to be looked at. The remote chambers were because there wasn't room on the heavier axles for "piggy-backs". There were piggy back conversions for the bolt together chambers, although I haven't seen one in decades.

With today's trucks, a rotator makes sense, but I agree with you. If you want to pull a modern rig off the side of the road with an old wrecker, it is going to take two trips, one for the trailer and one to hook the tractor from the rear. Working wrecks, a rotator can get in closer and take up less of the road to do the same job, that said just close it down for the few minutes it takes the old equipment to do the job. Those million dollar trucks have to be paid for by fees and prices have gone up with the cost of the equipment.

Pull that plug and look inside. If there is a 16 tooth wheel in there, all you need is a pick-up and speedo head. I have or had, I'd have to look to see if I still had it, a bearing retainer that had both ports, one for gear driven cable and one for mag pick-up . It was for a Fuller. Photo of the back of the trans would help.

M's were emission engines of the late 70's early 80's.

From what I can see, both fore and after are shot, the transverse are less clear. I can also see a part number in the forged rod on one of them, not clear enough to read the number, but there is one there.

A lot of those bushing all look the same, but there are different O/D's for different rods. IHC used some like that and they had forged rods and fab'd rods (tube) and they bushing were different. Also some of Atro's rods were of their own design and took yet another bushing, all have the same dimensions between mount holes. I would clean up the forged rods and through the bushing in the freezer for24 hrs, then press them in. Good results doing that. The fab'd rods weren't as good so sometimes would just by Atro's pre made units.

Atro should be able to either get bushing or possibly whole torque arms : https://atrobushing.com/atro-torque-rod-finder P.S.their older catalog, had the bushing by dimension as well, their newer catalogs I find harder to use. I might have an old Atro cat on a hard drive, if I can find it I'll post it.

Looks like your going to be needing some torque arm bushings as well!

There are places that GPS looses signal, just something to be aware of. Cable driven speedo's are a pain in a commercial vehicle. Electronic speedo's driven off a tone ring on the trans tailshaft solve all of the problems. They'll run for millions of miles without a problem. Which is why they took over the truck market for speedo's when they came out. Only need 4 wires (5 if a two speed rear) and are easy to install.

Here are the ratio steps: https://thompsonmachinery.com/content/uploads/2017/04/10speed-Eaton.pdf

Couldn't agree more! A transmission in search of an application. I had two (one 10 and one 15) and hated them both. idiot-proof (repeat shift pattern) but a 9 is better than a 10 and a 13 has them both beat.

IHC's I had used an outer plate from the get-go in that area. If Mack didn't and it led to cracks, then may be later ones had a plate added from the get-go. Parts manuals should tell the tale.

Plate on the inside may be because they set it up for double frame, then they only have to spec one rod for single or double frame trucks. My Marmon is that way. Just duplicate the plates you take off, and you'll be good.

Dr. Bill C's Freightshaker.

Fairly sure that is factory. It spreads out the side load on the frame. The distance from the inside of the frame to the axle is the critical one, outside the frame doesn't matter or change anything. Take it off, repair the rust jack and either replace the plate with new steel or re-use if not bad.

I think I can say every day! I can make exceptions for some people, but it is a rare animal that I can't find some good in.