Geoff Weeks

A lot of those bushing all look the same, but there are different O/D's for different rods. IHC used some like that and they had forged rods and fab'd rods (tube) and they bushing were different. Also some of Atro's rods were of their own design and took yet another bushing, all have the same dimensions between mount holes. I would clean up the forged rods and through the bushing in the freezer for24 hrs, then press them in. Good results doing that. The fab'd rods weren't as good so sometimes would just by Atro's pre made units.

Atro should be able to either get bushing or possibly whole torque arms : https://atrobushing.com/atro-torque-rod-finder P.S.their older catalog, had the bushing by dimension as well, their newer catalogs I find harder to use. I might have an old Atro cat on a hard drive, if I can find it I'll post it.

Looks like your going to be needing some torque arm bushings as well!

There are places that GPS looses signal, just something to be aware of. Cable driven speedo's are a pain in a commercial vehicle. Electronic speedo's driven off a tone ring on the trans tailshaft solve all of the problems. They'll run for millions of miles without a problem. Which is why they took over the truck market for speedo's when they came out. Only need 4 wires (5 if a two speed rear) and are easy to install.

Here are the ratio steps: https://thompsonmachinery.com/content/uploads/2017/04/10speed-Eaton.pdf

Couldn't agree more! A transmission in search of an application. I had two (one 10 and one 15) and hated them both. idiot-proof (repeat shift pattern) but a 9 is better than a 10 and a 13 has them both beat.

IHC's I had used an outer plate from the get-go in that area. If Mack didn't and it led to cracks, then may be later ones had a plate added from the get-go. Parts manuals should tell the tale.

Plate on the inside may be because they set it up for double frame, then they only have to spec one rod for single or double frame trucks. My Marmon is that way. Just duplicate the plates you take off, and you'll be good.

Dr. Bill C's Freightshaker.

Fairly sure that is factory. It spreads out the side load on the frame. The distance from the inside of the frame to the axle is the critical one, outside the frame doesn't matter or change anything. Take it off, repair the rust jack and either replace the plate with new steel or re-use if not bad.

I think I can say every day! I can make exceptions for some people, but it is a rare animal that I can't find some good in.

Rory's time was last night. Yesterday we went to the vet for his monthly arthritis shot, then to the dog park for an hr. After dinner he asked to go out. When he didn't ask to come back in 15 min later, I went looking for him. He had gone as far as his long lead would allow into the alfalfa, layed down and expired. He was the 1st I had to choose his time. Mostly I had to make the choice to stop the suffering. Rory didn't seam to be in pain or otherwise suffering. 14 years for a dog of his size is well outside the adv lifespan. Damn, I'm having a tough day today. Rory the day we adopted him, and with my brother's dog.

just disconnect the main lead, that killed it on mine that looked like that.

Many disk crashes ago I had Eaton plumbing for the different slave valves. I could be wrong but I don't think there was an 18 in the chrome knob era. You'll at very least need the range push-pull below the knob, it can't all be done on the chrome knob.

The way I read the note, that number is correct for his engine if built after 1960 or other engines built after 1962, and he need only measure the width of the current bearings to be sure.

does this help?

Anything where parts are getting hard to find, 1st find out what you have before chasing parts. Having a ground crank after chasing std bearings leaves you out money and time. Same goes for machine work, if the crank or bores (on a non lined engine) will clean up at 1st undersize but all you can find is .040, cutting to .010 will be a waste of money. See what you have, then see what you can get, and go from there.

Yeah, that's how they are called here for the most part.

Traction control valve/ABS, as to why it is leaking, well you can't tell that from a picture. 1st thing to do is disconnect the electrical and see if it still leaks, if it does it is the valve, if it doesn't then you have a traction control problem.

You jogged my memory about those. I had forgotten about that. Still, they shouldn't come into play with a tractor towing a trailer. Might be malfunctioning tho.

How old are your drums? (assuming drums not disk). Drum that have seen two sets of shoes are DONE! (One original, when the drum was new and one reline). They make look ok, but are hard and the lining never grips. I always changed drums every other lining change. Makes a huge difference. I assume the same hold true for disks but I have no experience with them. since the treadle valve supplies air to both truck and trailer, it would be less likely to effect only one of the two. Still the "clicking" should be looked into.

I hauled a KW like those to Maine Yankee for Barnhart's decommissioning. IIRC it was 11'8" wide. KW owned Dart for a brief time, so there are a lot of resemblances, between Dart, KW Pacific and even Hayes.

I thought that also

I think spring brake was the only requirement that was made "retro-active" meaning any tractor had to be fit with them even if they didn't have them at the time it was built. Most requirements allow for "grandfathering" so if the vehicle was built to the regulations at the time of mfg, it didn't have to conform to newer regulation. AFAIK Spring brakes are the only exception to that. Again, from what I remember reading, the Tru-stop driveshaft disk brake met the stopping distance requirement but not the self applying requirement of the spring brake law. I can't remember if the spring brake law only applied to tractors or if it included straight trucks over a set GVW. I know I have seen plenty of straight trucks with a mechanical driveshaft brake over the years, but more recent ones used a hyd over mechanical on the front of the diff for lighter trucks without air brakes.

CCC has no affiliation with Mack https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crane_Carrier_Company