Geoff Weeks

Does it look similar to this:

I suspect you have a Leace Neville alternator with remote rectifier system. It has a remote regulator. Pictures of everything or replace with a modern unit depending on what you want. Pictures would be helpful

Some seam to be confusing alignment and run out, they are not the same thing. Alignment is the geometry of the spindles to the frame and to each other. It doesn't change with wheel type or tires. Run-out is how true the rim is on the hub. You can have tons of run out and be in alignment, and you can have no run-out and be out of alignment. By using a tram-bar and scribing a line on the center of the tread on the tires on both sides, then rotating the tires and measuring as close to 180 deg as possible (front to back) you are taking any run-out out of the measurement.You are comparing the same point in front and behind the axle. THIS HAS NOTHING TO DUE WITH HOW TRUE THE RIM OR TIRE IS! Tires and their tread can't be counted to be true, so you pick one single point as your frame of reference and use that point for both measurements. Mounting spoke rims (and tires) on a set of spokes is a completely different operation, that is getting the rim on the taper evenly. If you don't it will wobble side to side and up and down. BUT IT HAS NO EFFECT on alignment. toe in, KPA and castor angle don't change with run-out. To mount a demountable rim true, start with all the nuts and wedges on the studs but completely loose. Put one spoke at the top (12 o'clock) and just snug it. Then rotate so either the one a 6 o'clock (6 spoke) or 7:30/4:30 (5 spoke) is now in the 12 o'clock and snug it. Continue in the same vain always snugging the wedge in the 12 o'clock position. This allows gravity to pull the rim into center on the taper. With all wedges snug, check the run-out with a block of wood or tire hammer. If run-out is good, continue tightening is a criss-cross patter until all are 240 ft/lbs, and recheck. If at any time you see run-out, loosen and start over. YOU CANNOT torque straight, you'll at worse end up over torquing the nuts and could even deform the rim.

Pay and working conditions! If you are willing to pay and provide decent working conditions, you'll have no trouble attracting good employees. If the conditions suck and you pay starvation wages you always have trouble attracting and keeping any workers. Trucking conditions are hard, always have been but are getting harder*, Wages have (for the most part) been on the edge of what is needed to keep reasonably competent workforce,and have declining . This leads to the real bad turnover rate the industry has always struggled with. * the driving is easier, but everything else is worse, wait time, traffic, JIT, parking food, the list goes on. When on the "open road" driving is a enjoyable, and will attract some, but the real world conditions lead those that can find other work not to stay long term, and those that can't to take their turn in the mill of "training" and then disappointment.

Funny that? Every time I got or renewed my CDL it was issued by the state! I guess I didn't know enough to get one of the mythical Federal issued CDL's !

No problem, solid tires, just over 20K on the drive, chain drive.

Yes, they just get plumbed from the pressure side to the suction side of the waterpump. Most bigger filter mfg sell the spin on filter heads. If I were you, I'd install the filter and run it for a while. If you have overheating problems change the radiator. That way you give the filter a chance to work, and not put a bunch of crap into the new radiator from the rest of the cooling system. Coolant filter are a bypass type filter, meaning they can plug and cause no running problems. If you notice the filter is cool after running, the filter is plugged and you need to replace it. (doing its job). Once the crap is out of the system, the filter will keep new stuff from building up..

Coolant filter, add one if it doesn't have one!

Yeah, I know about Lipe, but there are also other stamp steel covers that don't have an adjustment internally. I just want to make sure before he got it together. Not as common as the cast cover clutches. I admit to being wrong, but better to make sure before it is all buttoned up. Glad to see him go back with organic disks.

Ok, then I was wrong. We don't use a lot of stamped steel covers here. Thanks for the info!

Not sure it will, the Spicer and truck linkage is set up for an internal clutch adjustment. That mean the linkage doesn't change when the clutch is adjusted. That stamped steel cover, I see no internal adjustment, and may be designed for a clutch set up where the linkage gets adjusted. On those the clutch brake (if used) has to have a separate way to keep the clutch brake in adjustment. Without adjustment internally the throw-out bearing keeps moving as the clutch wears. I could be wrong, but have always replaced cast cover with cast cover.

I pulled 170K through a 14" organic coupled to a engine that was was over 425hp and 1400 lb/ft torque. Never wore out an organic clutch, the closest I came was when the pressure plate failed, spilling all its fingers and springs into the bell housing.

At one point aluminum spoke hubs were made, not the best idea.

That, right there is why I hate "puck" clutches, everything is tore up. heat checks, and material lost from the flywheel. Hard to tell from the pictures whether the flywheel can be brought back or not. If it can, it will be thinner and less able to take the heat from the next clutch.

Post your solution to the selenium unit when you get to that point.

My guess is a 14" Spicer, if it is what Joey Mack posted. Same clutch that Vlad was installing in the this post, and a VERY common clutch. A 15.5 has a flat flywheel and the cover goes over and surrounds the intermediate drive plate

I find they are very hard on PP and FLywheel surfaces, and tend to be "grabby". With any clutch, operator has a much bigger influence than material. I opted for higher plate load and organic, and the only time I had to address a clutch was a PP failure. All other times the clutch may have been replaced because the engine or transmission was out for another reason

2 spd rears came about in kind of a round a bout way. I was looking to change the ratio, and didn't fancy paying what yards wanted to drop-outs ready to go, so was looking for "cores" to build. I had the rear-rear core in the single axle Fleetstar parts truck, needed to be re-ratio'd and the side gears changed to slip in the DS402 housing and shafts in the truck. I found a front rear core for less money than a DS402 core (by far, less) and bought new ring and pinions and side gears and built them to DT402 spec's. I didn't need the 2 spds but found I liked them alot. Real nice climbing hills out west, from top (O/D) drop to direct, then downshift the rears and pull the hill in direct/ low range in the rear. It also gave me so many ratios at the low end, I would never have to "slip the clutch" under any load or condition. The truck came with 3.90's which may have worked out on paper to give the best MPG, but where and how I was hauling, 4.10 gave better mileage and didn't require shifting as much. It wasn't a big change on paper, but made a huge difference in practice.

Reducing parasitic loads wasn't my impetus, keeping moisture out of the air system was. I don't know how many drivers I've heard say "My truck is air tight, the pressure builds to 120 and sit there rock solid" while I hear there air drier blowing off every 20 sec! I never had anything coming out of the "wet tank" when things were as they should be. Often the 1st indication there was a problem would be a little water out of the wet tank. Most often it was the check valve on the top of the drier element that had come apart. My cabovers didn't idle until -25F, the Marmon with it much bigger sleeper needed more heat and I bought an air Espar I was going to add in addition to the coolant one already on the truck. Back in the 90's I built a APU, and while it was nice, it had its drawbacks. 1st was the noise, in a cabover I was directly above the APU mounted behind the engine. It needed maintenance and was heavy. For cold, the Espars do great, but that left either idling or motel when it is hot. As far as tires go, I never got into deep mud, but did get off road, including oil drilling sites, and my experience is: if rib tread will not get you through, lugs will not either, and your better off hanging some iron on the rear drives. 2 of my trucks were air start and one used a super-capacitor for cranking. Keeping moisture out of the air system, was good for air start, but where I really noticed it was in the trailer brakes system not freezing up in the cold, of course if you switch trailers a lot, you are at the mercy of the last person who pulled it.

Didn't go above 65 mph, and didn't idle! My truck with the 3406 had RTO14615 trans and came from the factory with 3.90's on 20" rubber, I re-ratio'd to 4.10/5.63 2 spds and gained between .75 and 1 MPG. It was Marmon's areo cab, with no exposed marker lights (were molded into the visor) or air horns on the roof, no external air filter on the side of the cb. I ran northern tier and almost never idled. If it was too hot, I tried to get a motel, most nights I slept with the windows open and fan blowing on me in the sleeper, in the cold I had an Espar coolant heater that kept me and the engine warm. I ran #2 when that was available, and "pump" fuel if blended fuel was all the truckstop had, I had a driver controlled fuel heater that I could turn on from the drivers seat and remained off unless needed. I checked and maintained tire pressure, ran "rib" or "highway" tread all around (no lug tires). I took care of air leaks so the compressor didn't cycle all the time. 10 min between cycles while rolling down the interstate was my minimum acceptable time. I had my cabover at one time would go 45 min between compressor cycles. I pulled flat-bed, and some loads are more areodynamic than others. re-bar and plate steel got the best MPG. Equipment like AG and truck bodies were the hardest on air flow.

Toe shouldn't be set before "loose parts" are corrected, Setting toe when parts can move about is pointless, trying to set while in "operational" (tires on the ground) but can still move due to loose bearings is no more accurate, as tires can shift. Take care of tie rods, king pin and wheel bearings before setting toe, KPA shouldn''t change unless the wedges under the spring seat are removed, spring eye pins must be dealt with if they are worn 1st.

What I'm saying is : electronic parts go "obsolete" quicker than mechanical parts do. You admit to having trouble sourcing parts for a 2016. To answer your question and to address the statement about 3406B's. I would run what I had, now down to the Marmon, with a 3406B. I don't know who said they only get 5 mpg? but I got 6.5 loaded 80K running west. Big Cam 4 I had got 6.3 to 5.5 depending on season (better in warm than cold) and Big Cam 3 was 6.0 to 5.3. It isn't just the engines I'm talking about, most mechanical parts for the electronic engines are readily available, but it is the whole truck that now runs on electronics. I had a co-worker scrap a (from my prospective) newer truck when the electronic dash went out and it would cost more to find a replacement in working condition then he felt the truck was worth. Even if no component itself has failed, electronics have massive amounts of wiring, and that can be a real problem. Wiring problems are, always have been, and continue to be a problem on vehicles, and they don't age well. While repairing the fault is generally cheap and easy, finding the location of the fault can be maddeningly hard and time consuming. On a mechanical truck this can be a nuisance, on an electronically controlled one it can shut you down on the highway. True story, guy had a truck that would run fine, and then die going down the road, it took a few tows and much time in the shop (where it worked just fine). Eventually it was traced to a wiring harness that had got pinched in the oil filter at some point and the insulation had been damaged, causing corrosion in the wiring harness itself. I don't know how many tows, and down time in the shop where they couldn't reproduce the problem. By comparison, my Marmon with the 3406B will start, run and pull down the road with no electricity what so ever, doesn't even need batteries. Only thing that would prevent you from doing so is the lack of turn signal and brake lights. Nothing wrong with any of the engines you mention, that is not the point I was making. Any of them are sound, but without there needed sensors, ecm and wiring they are dead in the water. Glider kits drive off the lot with all new wires, sensors and ECM. That is whole different deal than something 20 or 25 years old that has been exposed to de-icer for 25 seasons and all the things trucks go through in 25 year of working hard. If I had to choose one of those to run I would say the 12.7 Series 60 would be my go to engine, one of the later versions where the few bugs had been worked out but before 2004 MY The 3406B is a great mechanical engine and long lasting, but when fuel system repairs or "water in the basement' repairs are needed, they are much more expensive to repair than an 855 Cummins or an 8V92 Detroit. One more from "on the road files": I was west of Chadron,Ne and there was a truck stopped in the middle of US 20 unable to move, His foot pedal had failed, and was unable to move the truck. Cheap, easy repair in the shop, but an expensive tow and down time to get there. Nothing I could do to help him even get out of the travel lane and into some "lay by". Not disputing electronic deliver better fuel mileage, they do.

I did it with the wheels off the ground, blocks under the axle at the springs. That way the tires can be rotated without moving the truck. What is important is the difference in measurement between the scribe marks on the tire when the scribe marks are in front of the axle vs. behind the axle. easier to do with the weight off the tires.

Ok, take a look at what you wrote: your 2016 ate you alive, and parts were hard to find, but you want to jump backwards 20 years? Do you really expect parts for a 25-30 year old truck are going to be easier to find? Another thing that may or may not play into it is where you are working and what you are hauling. If you EVER want to go into Calif, that will require a newer truck. Anything made much after '92 or '93 is going to be electronic and have parts and sensors that changed year to year and are likely very hard to find. I was running 30-40 year old trucks at a time when they were still all mechanical. I also (if I do say so myself) am very good at finding and scrounging old, obsolete parts. The only part I haven't been up to my elbows in, with the the older trucks is a Cat 3406 injection pump. Cummins, yep, built those myself, Detroit 2 stroke are even simpler. I was a mechanic long before I was a truck owner, and had/have many of the tools and more important, the knowledge to tackle every thing that can go wrong with the trucks I had. I could build my work-a-rounds for parts that couldn't be found, but more important, I knew where to find, and could have the parts ordered and on the way, while still on the road. I'll be honest, I have never tried to keep an early electronic engine running 30 years on, I worked on them when they came out, parts were easy to come by, and I never gave it a thought. When I was buying my own, I stuck with mechanical engines. My Marmon was purchased BECAUSE it was the newest all mechanical engine I could get. I fear that 25-30 year old electronics may be more difficult to find SOME parts for than even older engine that is mechanical. It seams to me you would have the worse of both worlds, electronic parts that change about every year, and obsolete so parts aren't made either. Anything over 10 years old, it is almost mandatory to have parts manuals. Being able to do an internet search for a part number is so much more productive than saying I need X for a 1999 xxx model. I was fortunate, in that my years were still back when there were printed manuals. Dealers often purge there old stuff (which is likely where my manuals came from). Now everything is digital, and getting someone who has access to the data, to go look at it and tell you what you need, can be like pulling hairs.

If they are on the spokes and hold the wedges on, They should be 3/4" x 10 TPI