Geoff Weeks

GMC (or Chevy) with a Deutz from the factory, that is what I call rare. I seen pictures of one in a manual, never seen one in pictures or otherwise in the wild. They were offered as a factory option.

The why, when they have killed for less, was he not even arrested? You see what you want to see to bolster your own views. But ask why no arrest and paper trail that would prove it to be true?

Funny that, he wasn't arrested, the video ends with him standing un cuffed on the side walk. Labled as "appears to be..." Humm Could it be if it was him and they show that he was arrested, there would be a paper trail to confirm the truth of the video? At very least an arrest report and a bond ruling by a judge. It has fake smear written all over it. Spitting on a officer would be assault, Kicking out a light destruction of gov property, but these kind officers just let him walk? Look at things will a little more open mind. It falls apart on the face of it.

I doubt your air drier is compromised in any way, It is way thicker steel than the fitting are. Worse case buy a rebuilt bottom cover if that is badly corroded. You can change that "in situ" with the drier mounted to the truck. Changing driers (when you don't even know if there is a problem) but saying you don't have time to do what is obviously bad, is poor priorities. You've got an air tap on the lower fitting, apply shop air to above gov cutout pressure and see if it pops off! While it is building up listen for air leaks, and spray the hoses with soapy water. If your going to make it on 150 mile/week, you got to spend your money wisely, I see you jumping at things without determining if they are the problem or not.

Still well into the range of at least a 3/4" torque wrench, which is going to be damn hard to use while under a trash truck!

My point is still to focus on what is likely to shut you down, oil on brake cans isn't (unless the inspector is a real dick) Oil soaking brake shoes will. Air lines on the verge of failure will also get you shut down in an inspection even if they don't fail on the road and shut you down. So why if it only runs 150 miles in a week, can't you address some of these looming problems? There is a lot of oil in a differential, part of the reason there is more than needed for lube is to cool. A qt or two low isn't going to kill it. If it were I, I would pay a shop to do the pinion seal (as other have recommended) and use my time to address the other issues. While a torque multiplier is a good tool to have when working on stuff that needs to be torqued higher than a 1/2 torque wrench can reach, it is expensive kit to sit on the shelf. It is much more versatile then a 3/4 or 1' torque wrench because you can use it in tight spots that the long handle on a torque wrench that can go 600 ft/lb+ can't be used. Look, I know what it is like, I started with one truck, and had to prioritize repairs, I see big problems if you keep jumping problems without resolving any completely. I see real potential for a tow bill in your future, and trust me, you don't want that. It would be cheaper to pay to have the job done than it would be to "Kit up" for this one job.

BTW, unless that pinion seal is gushing oil, I'd put my efforts elsewhere before dealing with a "wet" seal. From what I saw of the airlines on the drier, that is much more likely to either get you shut down by DOT or leave you stranded. A damp or wet pinion seal that is not soaking the brakes with oil might get a mention on a inspection report but will not leave you stranded. You can check the oil and top off as needed, but a bust air hose leaves you dead in the water. Also, how did you make out with the fueling issue? was that fixed when you replaced the hose, or are you still running the electric pump?

Torque multiplier and a 1/2" torque wrench. That is how I do mine. Torque multiplier has a chart showing input (torque wrench setting) for desired output.

Those engine earned the moniker of "Toilet bowl" for a reason.

Thought it belongs here.

I suspect it is in fact, the other way around, the doors are the only part of the system that are working at the moment. The rest is controlled by the electronic control board and I am guessing that is not working. You'll need a manual control of a water valve for the heater, a switch to turn on the A/C and a frost switch in the evaporator fins to keep it from freezing over. All very doable. The original system used a thermostat in the airstream its signal was modified by the resistor (either directly or by its output to the controller IDK) and the controller which cycled the heater or A/C compressor as needed to give the desired output temp. Without the 'brains" of the system, you need to be the brains and control when the A/C is on or the water valve is open.

You have most everything you need to have both systems working. What you may not have is the controls for them to operate as designed. That is possible to build. You could add a frost switch and the A/C system would function. I don't know if the temp control lever has enough travel to have a cable controlled valve work with it. However, you can install a knob that can do that. It will not look "stock" but would look Ok and function. Do the air doors to direct the outlet air work?

I found old H-4 (Hella's) to be a good compromise between what we have today and what the old sealed beams gave us. But must admit I try and limit my night time driving, my eyes are as good as they were in my 20's. My 1st dog could spot deer long before I could. 1st time I had to hit the brakes hard to avoid hitting wildlife, he would come out of the sleeper and sit in the passenger seat and bark when he saw something. I came to trust his judgement better than mine!

Found an online Red Dot catalog and punched in the number for the controller and they don't even list it in the parts section so suspect it is NLA from Red Dot and not likely from other sources. Bummer.

I did some digging in an older MEI Airsource catalog and came up with some stuff! Never noticed it before. There are two CTC resistors One looks like just the replacement (#1180) and the other is a "kit" with some mounting brackets (#1181) They also list a CTC control module (#1184) However, a word of caution. There is the CTC and CTC II system according to the Red Dot manual and I am not sure which these are for, or if they are still available. I get zero hits on a web search. That is about as far as I can get.

I took a screen shot of what the Red Dot manual has to say about diagnosing the CTC system. I also attached the manual. Neither are of much help the CTC is on page 131 Red Dot Manual

With out that air controlled coolant valve connected, (in the open/no air position) from what I can follow on the diagram, you should always have full heat. If you are not, I suspect someone installed another valve that is off, it may be the valves on the engine block, or it may be something they installed to control heat themselves and will not be on the drawing.

wow, completely different then what I was expecting and very different from the Red Dot systems I am used to on other trucks. You can forget most of what I wrote! Sorry if I led you a stray. Without those diagrams you'd be really up a creek! It looks like an early attempt to make an "electronically controlled " temperature system where you set it where you want it it controls heat and AC. I have never seen one like that, and there are many things that could be wrong. Worse, I have never seen PARTS for a system like that, esp the CTC board and such. May be someone else here has more experience with that system, I have never come across it. I believe CTC is an acronym for constant temp control. It looks like it uses a thermostat, resistor and board a long with air pistons and that air valve to control the heat and A/C. I think if worse comes to worse, find a way to bypass most of it so you have heat, and install and air switch to the air coolant valve so you can turn the heat off. They may use the CTC system to control frost on the AC evaporator, so to make the A/C system work (without the present system) you may have to install a frost switch. If no one here can help, I'd write Red Dot and see if they can be of any help.

My guess is there is another valve (likely on the block) or a valve controlled by a control cable that is not opening. I could be wrong, but if bypassing that valve doesn't work, follow the control cable to the valve that regulates the heat. make sure it is moving. Then check the valves on the block and make sure they are in the open position.

I bought mine from Manders Diesel for $250 per "kit". The kit was the motor, tank, tank mounts and controls (start button and relay valve). I bought two "kits" and they came with the voltmeter and low pressure light/buzzer from the 1st generation of Volvo's Roadway had. All I had to add was the -20 air line and the -6 control lines. I bought 2 because I wanted spare part in case I had a problem, I found them so reliable, that I converted my other truck to air start. The one that was too short to add an air tank on the frame, got the Maxwell ESM for electric cranking.

Getting back to the coolant valve. Could you post a picture of the heater/AC controls? If it is the Red Dot control I am thinking of, the air would come from it, when in Max A/C. Red Dot made lots of the heaters for trucks and would stencil the truck makers name on the controls. The one in my Marmon IIRC has one port that has air in the A/C position. Some one might have disconnected and plugged it at the control.

The solenoid is likely a continuous duty solenoid to switch power on with the key switch without all that power having to pass though the key switch.

No air = valve open, air to the valve = valve closed. They can stick, and leak as can any valve. I used them for heater and fuel heat control. They make air switches that look a lot like electrical switches from the front end, to control them manually those valves are "directional" in that they are only supposed to be used with the flow in one direction which is marked on the side of the valve with an arrow. While they can fail, I wouldn't say it is a common problem. I've used them for decades and not had a failure. I've had cable operated valves fail also. Note: those are either open or closed, there is no part way or throttling to adjust heat. Some A/C controls will supply air to the valve when in "max A/C" to stop all coolant flow in the heater core for better cooling. If you want, you can bypass it and see if you get heat, just put a straight tube between the hoses. I often see them in bunk heater -A/C units to turn off the coolant to the heater core when not in use.

I believe you are correct.

Larry, you likely have the 150BMP series I linked the draw above. That is what I have also, very robust. I-R still lists them in their catalog, but everything is going turbine now. Motor segments are aluminum, drive nose is iron. rear housing/cover looks slightly different then the more modern ones, but that is it. May be they updated the rear housing. Other than that it looks like a 150 of today.