Geoff Weeks

That is good news for you. A good coupla hits with a blunt chisel and it should come off. Wear rings are a great idea, made for something that is going to need service, unitized seals goes a step further, and makes the seal and wear ring all in one piece. You should have good luck getting it all sealed back up, regardless if you use grease or oil.

Somebody needs to grow up. Not once was I or anybody else disrespectful of you, the same can not be said of your replies.

Take one of your old tube type rims and make a fire pit. Put the hub in the pit and wash all the oil out with diesel or kero, then wash with Dawn somewhere else, put some wood in the pit and have a fire to get rid of all the evidence!

Glad to get confirmation that my short term memory isn't totally shot! I thought I read that on here.

Outer seal was used with greased bearing in most cases. I think there is one where one bearing is in oil and the other in grease, that was mentioned a while ago on this site. I never saw that in my time.

Likely an old Stemco, and we are seeing the "wedding band". That is good news, as you can remove the band and replace with a modern unitized seal.

Look around the spindle where the seal rides, does it look to be one piece or is there a ring pressed on? What seal did it have? Stemco (leather) or something else? If it was a Stemco, you can remove the "wedding band" and use a unitized seal in its place. Something that old, I wouldn't want to say for sure. I know the English buses had a replaceable thick ring the seal rode on. I know the old felt seals (grease, not for oil) rode on the axle housing directly. If it does have a ring, to remove it, take a blunt chisel and hit the band in two places 90 deg from each other, you want to deform and expand the band, not cut it, and risk damage to the spindle that can leak.

I had to go look and according to wiki, the V series came out in '57! I didn't think it was that early!

No, I knew the pertinent facts 1) you are company driver 2) the decision is not yours to make. The rest is in the hand of those that do have to make the choice on where to put their money.

Coupla points, watching someone else run a company is not the same as having all on your shoulders. Helpful, yes, but not the same. Having carried the burden successfully myself, I know how many hard choices and long nights it takes be successful. Getting 3 brothers to agree on anything in business is going to be difficult to impossible, but more power to you if it works out. Loose the cactus comments. People here are giving you had learned wisdom, if you don't want to hear it, fine, but don't attack the messenger.

Plastic is fine if it doesn't bridge the gap between two moveable things. It is a replacement for ridged copper line, not a replacement for rubber hose. So from pot to axle mounted quick release, plastic is fine. For pot to FRAME mounted relay valve it is not. edit: yes, I know it is used for the "curly tubes" for the trailer, but that is a special circumstance. I'll have to see if I can find where it is in the regs.

Yes, there are a few types. Old Stemco's used what was called a "wedding band" on the spindle. That may be what I am seeing there. There is also a "seal saver" which is a very thin stainless steel band that is forced over the spindle. Yours looks removable, not part of the spindle, but could be wrong, I'm not there looking at it. There is a way out no matter what, just how much money or work depends on what the part that is worn is.

I'd say you need a new wear ring for the seal!

Don't be mad because 67R spoke the truth, and I concur. If you haven't run a trucking company or any company for that matter, you don't know what it takes to do so. If your bosses want to spend the company money that way, I have no problem with it either. However, it is oft said in business, that the 1st generation builds the business, the 2nd squanders it and the 3rd (if it last that long) run it to bankruptcy. It is easy to spend someone else's money, hard to justify if it is your money. Again, if they want to do it, more power to them, if I were you, I wouldn't hold my breath.

Ton of wisdom and experience in those two lines. The dreams of a company driver rarely align with the business model of the company owner.

Huntington, WV delivering brick.

I had two of those, 1st one was crap, cracked from the get go. 2nd one I kept in the one and only truck with stud pilot. They work but if you have to change an inner dual you'll be knackered before you get all 20 nuts off.

I think the 1st highlighted starter would put the solenoid close, but would have to be rotated to clear everything.

This shows the rotational choices with those two starters, I think one of the two should clear the manifolds and block.

Mine hand cranks so easy. The problems come when the gasoline evap's from the carb, then it takes a bit of hand cranking. I set my points with a dwell meter and the timing with a strobe, it never has tried to kick-back when set like that. It should have a hand choke and throttle. I give it a little throttle and set the choke depending on temp. Starting for the 1st time after sitting for a long time, I draw fuel up with a syringe, but still takes some cranking either electric or hand to fill the carb. Once it is full, it fires right off.

This claims to fit a delco 737-Z which is what the 269 takes. https://www.ebay.com/itm/282933350969 But IIRC you are going 12 volt, so I'd be looking in the Leece Neville catalog for a 10 tooth clockwise rotation SAE#1 starter. Last I looked they made some. Check the two highlighted starters

Well my memory is crap, I went out and looked on my Dart and the cab is by Chicago Mfg and it is on North Trumbal not Elston. So wrong about the name and location.

Hard to say, could be almost anything from a -7 through -10

Does sound like a cab grounding issue. Run a 10 ga wire between the cab and engine and cab and frame.

Diamond T and IHC, both shared a fair bit over the years, with Diamond T even using some IHC engines, but there was never any doubt which had more "bling" or was the upscale Mfg, that has always been Diamond T!