Geoff Weeks

In all my time working on heavy stuff, I've had ONE impeller in the water pump be a problem. ONE wrong waterpump and countless radiator failures. If you want to go with the odds and not confirm with a test, replacing the radiator is the most likely solution. If you want 100% confirmation, put a temp gauge in the lower radiator (return) and compare to the one on the engine. If the return isn't 10 deg cooler when working the engine hard, then you have proof it is the radiator. Edit: The above is on a clean system that has been maintained and has a coolant filter that has been serviced at normal intervals. If you have never serviced or don't run a coolant filter, then all bets are off.

What do you expect from people who are always getting loaded and getting dumped?

Both my 9670's had them on the floor, and lasted as long as I had the trucks, hit with a little WD-40 if they sat for a while, the water dispersing quality of that product does well here. "92 Marmon had on the turn signal stalk, when it went bad, it went on the floor, eliminated a relay and was more "ergonomic" to have it on the floor. As with most "tilt-tele" steering columns, the turn signal switch was below the "tilt joint" meaning you had to reach down for it. Not a big problem for the turn signal, as you know you are going to use it, but fumbling when a car comes over a hill to dim was more of a problem. I am of a generation that it was on the floor, and that is where I like it, even though vehicle have had it on the column for 40 years or more.

The use to pull with a pintle hitch makes it a little more critical, it has to be strong enough for the loaded trailer.

My guess is the owner had a short-neck drop-deck that was made for a single screw and the frame hit when towed by a tandem drive tractor.

If it makes you any more at ease, I never went further in than taking the covers off and the main gear/piston out. I have replace the sector shaft bushing and then popped the main gear back in (being careful to time the timing marks). Only time I would "go inside" is if it had power in one direction and not the other (indicating the poppet valve/springs) were bad. That was never the case for mine, they worked fine.

Ok, I'm not sure why you are trying to disassemble that far. Last I knew you were going to replace the bushing for the pitman shaft, I see no reason to take the main gear apart, they don't leak externally.

This: https://www.accuridecorp.com/sites/default/files/resources/2023-08/WE1.011 Rev. 4 Gunite Brake Drum Product Catalog 8-7-23.pdf shows that drum still active in 2023. Also has all the dim's.

My experience is the hub is always different inboard to outboard. Because the drum is between the hub and wheel on outboard, the flange that the drum mates too has to be further in than with inboard. In otherwords, the wheel has to be the same distance from the frame, regardless of if it mounts against the hub or the drum is sandwiched in between. That makes the hubs different.

Paul, 34K on a tandem is country wide legal, but each state can set limits in that state over that, and of course if you do heavy haul there is permitting for much higher weights. Also off road use. 38-40K is std rating now a days on anything for drives, dumpers often go 46K or higher. I'm sure you know, but higher cap housing use thicker wall and bigger bearings, so are an advantage regardless of weight carried in the long run.

Towing my Dart oil field truck backwards from Ill to Iowa I had some lugs loosen. (never happens with spokes!) I have seen 1st hand there is some truth to that.

I have built several with "rope" seal, I like them, but they do have some drawbacks. Even replace with crank in place, which is never ideal, but worked. Low pressure on the shaft and self lubricating are some of the advantages. Also no need to source an exact replacement, you can just buy a length and cut what you need.

Hammer the Ken-Tool on as far as you can, break loose the inner nut but don't remove it, used some pinch bars to get the Ken tool off. Easier to do when it is still threaded on the hub and the rim is available to pry against.

Honey bees, I'll do what I can to make sure they live, and a few stings is no big deal. Wasps: totally different story, they are like tick's and 'skeeters, pests!

I used the 25SI as the basis for my multi-staged (IUoU) charging systems. I know them intimately down to every last nut and bolt. They are extremely robust and hard to damage. On the ones I modified, they would at times, run full field output for up to 9hrs at a time.

If run with output hooked to ground, it will never produce any voltage and will not be harmed.

The correct 6 ga lead is Delco # 1971105 which is so long obsolete it doesn't even get any "hits" on the internet anymore. I used side terminal battery cables and drilled out the center hole for the large (7/16" IIRC) bolt. Note: the hex on the output bolt is ISOLATED from the output, and can not be used to check for voltage.

Yeah I tried to edit your picture with a blue arrow pointing to the output but not sure I was successful.

I have come across where someone has swapped a hub from side to side, so always a good idea to check first.

Hub pilot are all right hand thread, Stud pilot (what some refer to as "Budd") are right on right and left on left

Yes, that is the output wire and should go to battery positive.

No, that is the relay terminal and not used in most cases. the "hot" output is the one with the blue arrow pointing to it alt.odg

Ok you have a Delco 25Si or 26SI (they are the same externally). The wire on the top is ground and the one that looks like a side-post battery terminal is output. If everything is as it should be on the Delco, the post and bolt color should indicate positive or negative ground on the design of the alternator. They were made in both polarity but negative ground is by far the most prevalent. Blowing up your picture as much as I can, the output bolt looks to be red, indicating a normal negative ground (case of the alternator is neg, output post is positive) system. confirm by tracing the heavy cables from the neg posts on the batteries and find out where they go. The output on the alternator should go to battery positive, either at the starter solenoid or somewhere else that can handle full output of the alternator.

There is a special tool that is made to get the inner nut off when that happens. It isn't 100% effective, but does work most of the time. https://www.jbtools.com/ken-tool-30165-dual-wheel-lug-stud-remover/?wi=off&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22174825632 you pound it on and then wrench the nut off. Once you have ground down one side, I don't think it will work. just cutting above the rim may not do it. You may have to pull the hub, if inboard drums, and remove the nut in the drum and drive the stud out. If that is what you mean by "old Skool" brakes! I think you may be to the point where you have to decide "what to destroy" to get the rim off, and replace the destroyed parts.

From what little I can see in the picture, I'd guess baldface or whitefaced. They are very close kin to yellowjackets. I think they build nests above ground like the one you had, I know yellowjackets can and do nest in the ground. I know when I get stung from a wasp, it feels like someone heated a pin red hot and jammed it deep into my skin, then I swell up real bad. More then a few stings and I go into shock. anything that can coat an insect (hairspray etc) can cut off there ability to get oxygen and they die, but hornet spray doesn't have to coat them directly to work. Bees, on the other hand don't bother me much, yeah I feel a sting and it itches a bit, but wasps are a whole different story.