Geoff Weeks

Ok, I'm not sure why you are trying to disassemble that far. Last I knew you were going to replace the bushing for the pitman shaft, I see no reason to take the main gear apart, they don't leak externally.

This: https://www.accuridecorp.com/sites/default/files/resources/2023-08/WE1.011 Rev. 4 Gunite Brake Drum Product Catalog 8-7-23.pdf shows that drum still active in 2023. Also has all the dim's.

My experience is the hub is always different inboard to outboard. Because the drum is between the hub and wheel on outboard, the flange that the drum mates too has to be further in than with inboard. In otherwords, the wheel has to be the same distance from the frame, regardless of if it mounts against the hub or the drum is sandwiched in between. That makes the hubs different.

Paul, 34K on a tandem is country wide legal, but each state can set limits in that state over that, and of course if you do heavy haul there is permitting for much higher weights. Also off road use. 38-40K is std rating now a days on anything for drives, dumpers often go 46K or higher. I'm sure you know, but higher cap housing use thicker wall and bigger bearings, so are an advantage regardless of weight carried in the long run.

Towing my Dart oil field truck backwards from Ill to Iowa I had some lugs loosen. (never happens with spokes!) I have seen 1st hand there is some truth to that.

I have built several with "rope" seal, I like them, but they do have some drawbacks. Even replace with crank in place, which is never ideal, but worked. Low pressure on the shaft and self lubricating are some of the advantages. Also no need to source an exact replacement, you can just buy a length and cut what you need.

Hammer the Ken-Tool on as far as you can, break loose the inner nut but don't remove it, used some pinch bars to get the Ken tool off. Easier to do when it is still threaded on the hub and the rim is available to pry against.

Honey bees, I'll do what I can to make sure they live, and a few stings is no big deal. Wasps: totally different story, they are like tick's and 'skeeters, pests!

I used the 25SI as the basis for my multi-staged (IUoU) charging systems. I know them intimately down to every last nut and bolt. They are extremely robust and hard to damage. On the ones I modified, they would at times, run full field output for up to 9hrs at a time.

If run with output hooked to ground, it will never produce any voltage and will not be harmed.

The correct 6 ga lead is Delco # 1971105 which is so long obsolete it doesn't even get any "hits" on the internet anymore. I used side terminal battery cables and drilled out the center hole for the large (7/16" IIRC) bolt. Note: the hex on the output bolt is ISOLATED from the output, and can not be used to check for voltage.

Yeah I tried to edit your picture with a blue arrow pointing to the output but not sure I was successful.

I have come across where someone has swapped a hub from side to side, so always a good idea to check first.

Hub pilot are all right hand thread, Stud pilot (what some refer to as "Budd") are right on right and left on left

Yes, that is the output wire and should go to battery positive.

No, that is the relay terminal and not used in most cases. the "hot" output is the one with the blue arrow pointing to it alt.odg

Ok you have a Delco 25Si or 26SI (they are the same externally). The wire on the top is ground and the one that looks like a side-post battery terminal is output. If everything is as it should be on the Delco, the post and bolt color should indicate positive or negative ground on the design of the alternator. They were made in both polarity but negative ground is by far the most prevalent. Blowing up your picture as much as I can, the output bolt looks to be red, indicating a normal negative ground (case of the alternator is neg, output post is positive) system. confirm by tracing the heavy cables from the neg posts on the batteries and find out where they go. The output on the alternator should go to battery positive, either at the starter solenoid or somewhere else that can handle full output of the alternator.

There is a special tool that is made to get the inner nut off when that happens. It isn't 100% effective, but does work most of the time. https://www.jbtools.com/ken-tool-30165-dual-wheel-lug-stud-remover/?wi=off&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22174825632 you pound it on and then wrench the nut off. Once you have ground down one side, I don't think it will work. just cutting above the rim may not do it. You may have to pull the hub, if inboard drums, and remove the nut in the drum and drive the stud out. If that is what you mean by "old Skool" brakes! I think you may be to the point where you have to decide "what to destroy" to get the rim off, and replace the destroyed parts.

From what little I can see in the picture, I'd guess baldface or whitefaced. They are very close kin to yellowjackets. I think they build nests above ground like the one you had, I know yellowjackets can and do nest in the ground. I know when I get stung from a wasp, it feels like someone heated a pin red hot and jammed it deep into my skin, then I swell up real bad. More then a few stings and I go into shock. anything that can coat an insect (hairspray etc) can cut off there ability to get oxygen and they die, but hornet spray doesn't have to coat them directly to work. Bees, on the other hand don't bother me much, yeah I feel a sting and it itches a bit, but wasps are a whole different story.

Yellow jackets are wasps not bees, White faced or baldfaced hornets are wasps! Just to add confusion to the mix. Bees are fine with me, wasps can send me to the hospital if I get multiple stings. Those "paper" nests are wasp nests, so always be careful around them

Photo is worth 1000 words

Well, that is a new one on me "both positive and negative ground on the same vehicle!

Might want to look at what Apex says about the 6400, "wet liners only" https://www.apexinds.com/tools/ATC6400.html

I can handle bee stings, no problem, even hauled a load of honey bees from the west coast back to the midwest. Wasp and hornets are a different matter. I get a severe allergic reaction to their venom. I don't know what is different between the species, but I DO know there is a difference.

If I understand correctly, he is doing at least all six liners. Making or buying a tool would be best. A single liner, I have used a burr and cut two slits almost through, then knocked out a section to curl the liner in on itself. Lots of work but less so than removing the engine and crank from what I was working on. Lot of "clean up" work to make sure no "grit" remains behind. Mild steel deforms easily so has to be thick enough where it hooks the bottom of the liner to retain its diameter. Harder steel can be thinner. Pilot is a must to keep the puller on center. The larger the area in contact with the liner, the less you have to worry about deformation. It is why mild steel slugs work well and why pullers like the one pictured use replaceable hardened lugs, because the contact area is so much less. Many ways to "skin the cat" what works best for you depends on how many you do and how fast you want to get it done. Dry liners tend to be thinner than wet liners giving you less to grip on. Many engine shops prefer to use a boring bar to "bore out" dry liners, as they say there is less chance of damaging the block, like putting a gouge in the bore where the liner sits. They have the advantage of the engine out and the machines at hand to do the job. I have run across a "stuck" liner that sheared on of my puller lugs before. It pulled other liners from the same block without problem, but that "one" required a fresh set of lugs. Never know what you will run into.