Geoff Weeks

If it is worth more to me than what it will sell for, it is worth more to me then the other guy and no sale! Unless you put a reserve on it, it goes for the hammer price whether you think it should go for more or not. May be it is a regional thing, out here there are plenty of trucks with more modern spec's going for far less. I would be a very lucky day to see it go for more than Joseph Cummings offered. I never paid to much attention to what a drivetrain was "rated for" in terms of Ft/lbs. As long as it is a twin countershaft trans I wouldn't worry. Did all my heavy haul with 1100 series 13 spd and 14 organic clutch. Worth can be measured in a sale price or a replacement price. If it worth more to me than you, so be it. In this case I think the sale price will be less than it "worth" to the present owner.

I'm not degrading the truck or its condition, but it has a very limited buyer market. It can not as presently configured be used commercially on the road, too underpowered. It could be easly re-powered to meet today's requirements, but that is not how it is now, and that determines it value. The buyer will either be someone who wants to move there own equipment around a farm or to shows, or a collector who wants that model. That is a small pool of purchasers. Someone who just wants to move equipment around their farm isn't going to give top dollar. too many trucks out there. A collector will likely value the condition more and be more willing to pay for that condition. They are even harder to find. 2021 I let a road ready, 400hp+ cabover go for 5K after having it for sale for more than a year. It could and was used on the road in today's loads and speeds. The engine was out of chassie overhauled a few years before, and had a new radiator ($2100). I'd love for him to see those kinds of prices, but my experience is it would take a lot of advertising and waiting for the right buyer to come along. No problem asking for a higher price, but when it comes to the final sale, it will be what the buyer and seller agree too. Again, not knocking the truck, just want to give realistic expectations. I'd be thrilled with $20K for my 1992 Marmon, and that is more rare, and could easily be put to use on the road today. Unfortunately, "what it is worth" and "what it will sell for" are two different figures.

I hope you're right but suspect you're a bit optimistic. You'd need to find to "collectors" with deep pockets bidding against each other to see that much I fear.

You will not hear that BS about caps from me! Only illegal on "passenger carrying vehicles" (I.E. bus). Ether in tires is just "not best practice", as I said before, needs must when the devil drives. I have a blaster tank, so I use that. I have seen more rust inside the rim after ether was used and it was run for a long time. You can still smell it when you break down the tire. I would run my casings for 3 treads before retiring, they were pulled at that point still "capable" but the age made it unwise. I did an experiment on a few and put a 3 cap on, but the casing failed before that 3 cap wore out. That is why I used "best practice", tires were a major cost, and the better I cared for them the less they cost me over the long haul.

At very least it puts combustion gases in the tire, that and some moisture will likely result in acid formation. Then there is the issue if not all the ether combusts, then you could have a flammable mix in the tire itself. All in all it is to be avoided if possible, but yes, I admit to having done it as well. then there is this:

No idea what it is worth, but love the spokes. Those 15" trailer tires were known for problems. The tube stem is right against the 12" brake drum. Most switched to 17.5 and never looked back. Not surprised it popped a few.

Yes, I know it is wrong, and I very rarely did it, but needs must when the devil drives, a little starting fluid will pop the bead on. Did it once on a trailer for a guy. He had hit a chunk of concrete and bent the steel rim on those real low profile 22.5 tires they run on a step-deck. Took my bottle jack and a 4x4 with the damage part up, jacked it back mostly round, and soaped up the bead with hand cleaner, then popped the tire back with starting fluid. He was in Ontario and they take a very dim view of wheel end problems, he had no Canadian cash or a credit card, I got him back across the boarder, with that trick.

When you are your own carrier, it all comes out of your pocket, the more you keep the better off you are. When I can do it faster and cheaper, I am both money and time ahead!

Disks or spokes, take the same to mount/dismount. Tubeless vs tube type can vary. The rim portion of a disk and spoke are the same (ok, except for Firestone RH 5 deg) so mount time is the same.

One Jamoke saw me patching a tube on one of my trailer tires (I had picked up a nail in a jobsite) before I went into dinner. He commented how "he wasn't paid enough to do that kind of work". I asked him what he did when he got a flat? Oh I call road service. Ok what does that cost? I don't know, company pays Ok how much drive time did you loose? Only an hour or so Well I can patch this tube, re install in the tire and inflate in about 30-40 min, Given road service calls prices I am paying myself between $125- $200/ hr, how much are you paid? silence. I always had a mounted spare and tools to change them. Gotta love spokes, inner or outer, done in 20 mins with hand tools.

Well that sucks!

Please post any casting numbers on the master cylinder casting.

Looks like you threaded a bolt into the piston, this is NOT the way to get it apart. The push rod has to ride in the concave space. If you ever have to do it again, make up a fitting and grease nipple and pump grease into the outlet of master forcing out the piston (after removing the lock ring). Measure the bore, if it 1 3/4" then the rebuild kit I referenced should work. The real question is what shape the bore is in?

I don't think that is the site I remember, it had all kinds of nuts and cones for small engines all the way up to big marine engines. But still, it is a good resource.

There used to be a North American supplier that had all the ends, nuts and tube, I just can't find a link for it, may be putting the wrong search terms in Google. In an emergency I have made a repair to a Leyland 680 (very similar to Mack) by taking the line off, cleaning and wrapping iron baling wire tight over the defect extending out from each end, then carefully brazing over the wire wrap. Far from a perfect repair but enough to get by until a new line could be flown in.

The frame mounted booster allowed for more boost an worked better with bigger trucks, larger M/C, and more overall flexibility in the whole brake system. They were used up and until air brakes took over the medium truck market. You can replace the hydrovac with an "airpac" that is the same booster but boosted with air pressure instead of vacuum, then you have a brake controlled pressure signal that can be used to operate a trailer with air brakes. It was a popular conversion after the war when there were plenty of hydraulic braked surplus trucks and not enough air braked tractors around for towing semi's. throw an air compressor on, exchange the hydrovac for an air pack, a few air tanks and valves and you were set.

genuwine Maine native, out numbered but not out smaaated!

This brings us to the little air cleaner on the hydrovac, it filters all air that gets drawn into the hydrovac to keep from gumming up and damaging the hydrovac, but just as important, any air entering the hydrovac eventually enters the engine as well. Repair the air cleaner and hose to prevent damage.

It wasn't until I re-read what you wrote, that I saw a few misconceptions on your brake system. The brakes are hydraulic with vacuum assist (boost). The thing in blue is the master cylinder, just like a car has. It is bigger and only has a single line. Dual masters didn't come out until much later. The master is connected to the foot pedal by a push rod. It make pressure in the hydraulic line which goes to the wheel cylinders in each brake. Along the way it passes through the frame mounted "Hydrovac booster". If the engine is off and no vacuum, the pressure passes right through the unit and on to the brakes, un boosted. IF the engine is running and there is vacuum in the booster, the control valve closes off vacuum to one side (rear) of the big can and modulates how much atmospheric pressure is allowed to the back side, which moves the piston in the hydraulic portion, boosting the amount of foot pressure from the master. In this way it multiplies the pressure generated by the drivers foot but is always controlled by the drivers foot pressure. So it is not true "vacuum brakes" which work like air brakes in reverse, but vacuum assisted hydraulic.

RD 450 and smaller are lined (dry liners) the 501 is not lined. If it is stuck, dry liners might make the repair easier.

Closest thing I can come up with is a Wagner F2981. It would have a casting number of 1099FE and takes a F8450 rebiuld kit. It has a 1 3/4" bore and not RCV. This is going just off pictures, You MUST verify that it is the same bore. Nothing else I found used the three bolt side mount and didn't have an RCV and was for brake fluid. https://www.brakeproducts.com/Products/Wagner/

Try and get a casting number off the master cyl, I used to have a book that would cross casting number and bore size to MC number. I don't know if I can still find it.

I know the master cyl for my K-7 was still available new from Rock Auto a few years ago. Most of those single line big masters are still available new as they were often used well into the 70's on trucks and long after that on fork trucks. You need to be careful though. Most hydrovac's had the RPV in the outlet of the hydrovac and can't have one in the outlet of the master. You can remove them if all you can find is a master with one. I also got a master rebuild kit at the same time, but haven't used it yet. Hyd brake cyl can be sleeved if badly pitted and new are not available. Masters can also but it is a much more difficult process to make the small drilled holes though the reservoir opening, requiring long twist drills that are easy to break.

Glenn, had a place in the US but I can't find it anymore?

If all else fails: https://cohpro.com/product-category/metal-tube-fittings/diesel-fuel-injection/