Geoff Weeks

RD's top out at 501 CID. Engine number will be stamped into the block (not head) between #1 and #2 cyl, behind the air compressor. Should start with "RD" followed by the displacement and then the serial number of the block.

On other makes with single reduction rears, the tooth count is most often stamped in the head of the pinion (rear-rear on a set of bogies) eliminates guess work, like "was that 3.7 times or 3.9 time around the shaft?" Because the gear set is "mated" at the time of mfg, it will be correct. For Eaton 2spds it will be the "high ratio". Don't know how Mack does it with their double reduction. esp if someone changes the gear-set and doesn't re-stamp the ratio on the housing.

The "can" thing on the frame rail is a Bendix Hydrovac brake booster. It has a little air cleaner (small vertical can) and a large vacuum line to the engine intake. There needs to be a check valve between the engine and the hydrovac, so no pressure from a back-fire in the engine. The Hydrovac are very reliable and it wouldn't surprise me in the least that is works just fine. I have 3 of them and haven't had to go inside on any of them.

Many times they are made up with re-useable fittings, so just buy enough -20 hose and go to town. If at all possible, I run plastic air brake hose, one piece, from the tank side of the relay to the button, this is the only hose that has pressure at all times and a leak is a problem, the rest only have pressure when cranking so a small amount of leakage is no big deal. Making it one piece with as few fitting as possible. Mine would go 4-5 weeks and still have enough in the tank to crank.

Those look to take a "ball seat" nut. I can't blow the picture up enough to look for any casting numbers on them. Getting any numbers off the old ones would be the best way to make sure you are getting what you need.

Harry, just noticed your location. there was one being sold out of India which may or may not be cheaper in your part of the globe, I didn't post it because here in the US it was more expensive than the other two. It was on E bay with the search "Air Starter" . You have to wade through the air brush starter kits and the electric starters for "Chevy Bel-Air" to find what you need.

I had the 1st style, with I-R cast on it. the 2nd style may be an aftermarket part that someone is making. Both styles have a snap-ring on the bottom so can be re-packed need be.

Mine came with them, but I see them from time to time on E bay and ASC used to sell them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/364870193448?_skw=(air+starter)&itmmeta=01JERDK8WM5XG0ZNZ4DA7E69TR&hash=item54f3f55128:g:grYAAOSwkxdmMi3u&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKl7zbobRhkyM7m8ehOfEAxSv576b1N7w8%2BrhIGY%2FQR6QfitD4G%2BW7SY7QksPeFnOuN2WcYOU%2Fmb6IkzeJUk%2BaN6vEMv3CSkNMo4BwKn98AEOKinQXlizuMCI7liM3hmUEy9WYzkbkKZhwqKbae8BAezCsALJcdzzxqvGHphv0SLuGAtlkGgfmrSc2Bh6yaOaLBj05pP1eVe8%2B4He7wT2GucnBKQKkNWX%2FfbGe1zC1qOpjOQXmZEAQoFfvIsncFh5Knq52jqVajUSyMVmdERimfotskfXJGBnQ5G6ZfYAUWkbA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9aOzY32ZA ASC seams to have gone into more of makeing their own (old Startmaster) and rebuilding them over supplying I-R parts. The air muffler is just a large "can" with slots in the side and filled with metal "turnings" so it could be home made with good results. also. https://www.ebay.com/itm/294208307533?_skw=(air+starter)&itmmeta=01JERE2AXNB1B08NNG8C5Z8TMQ&hash=item44802e814d:g:1k0AAOSw9-5gt2zX&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnoll9hnZ2IlKYbB9ErHcbhP7ZreNSdDWrcKMWGoMIVqoBkcwesZNwBMV6TpLMBW14p9bQbY6RiXAAYy2r1eRNiVWzu%2B6R3vCaEMRg3WYw%2BMWeH8Vj3hmBP%2BFatzs%2BjciL%2B5LX2TWqt8HhIfNkE1cn2Ho6s9157vb2IkvQTmQo%2FLFonlyrDB98GY7Kxy4SLV5CEMyw%2FYZCZrYpWO6fbilpOc2FjIWdjLEqWONsMyB2iaONnpL%2FWG1L9HaN0BKvC2lIsIgwuCDTylZ%2FMShDNSSKe99wevtdTyjnidmL1skHZmA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4iviY72ZA cheaper A quick look-see on E-pay showed 4 (I might have missed some) and I posted the cheapest 2

I strongly recommend the lube injector pump in the air inlet. Either use MM oil or hook to the fuel return from the injection pump. Gives a shot of lube each time the motor is powered. something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/203442173004?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&srsltid=AfmBOopsU3NIj8KcuES8xlZD38GOI1RbwF8HI8SA9c3AoyTF9SuIKCmJHio No relation to the seller!

I would park between my garage and my neighbors house. Muffler was mandatory for good neighbor relations. I asked if my early morning starts were a problem, and they said it never woke them. If they had made an issue with the town, I doubt it would have ended with "it is his land, he can park whatever he wants on there and start it whenever he wants". Like a jake, a little consideration goes a long way. I switched to air start for the reliability, and the ability to easily start a hot engine that had just been shut off in the customs booth. Later I found being able to sleep all night with the engine off and the heater running in -25 F and not worry about if the engine would crank.

All mine had air mufflers on them. Sounded "different"but not obnoxiously loud.

If it is yours and you are doing the work yourself, there are two way you can go, You can gamble and just replace the rocker and push rod and hope for the best, or you can go conservative, and pull the head. Depend on your risk adversity. If you go the cheap way, it may do it again and worse. Inspect the rocker shaft for galling, and if any is found, suspect oiling problem on the rocker. I had one crack/break on a Cummins injector rocker. I took the gamble and replaced just the rocker and pushrod, never had any further trouble. It is a gamble. If you are being paid, the only real answer is to pull it down and get to the source as why it happened.

Might try ASC in Texas, they had all my I-R stuff I needed. That is an old model and parts may be thin to non-existent. It would be replaced by a 150 of some sort. If you take it apart, mark the parts esp case sections so you put back the same way around. Simple devices.

Are the tires and rear ratio the same between the trucks? total ratio make huge difference when pulling hard. I dropped from 3.90 to 4.11 and gained on hills and lowered fuel consumption by 3/4 to 1 MPG, that is a huge difference. Truck was also much easier on the driver as it would pull many more inclines without a downshift.

If you look at J Cummins post, not only is it the exact same picture, he included the tire data sheet, the DOESN'T include all the mis-spellings. I would order two and put tubes in them and never look back. At least in the US it is permissible to use tubes in tubeless tires, but my guess is they're wrong and it is a tube type. The difference is a tubeless tire has a molded in liner that is air tight where a tube type does not. 20" tubeless military tires that can be used tube or tubeless still all go on 5 deg bead angle. 22.5 and 24.5 use a 15 deg bead angle. The bead angle is not determined by the tire construction but by the rim design it it to be used with. Again, it is the same make and model shown in their own tire data book as being tube type! I'll believe their own published data book over a misspelled whats-ap post.

I think the W900 was inbetween the H and the CL9000. Kind looked like a "cracker box" or the Dodge Cab over of the 60's. https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.tenfourmagazine.com%2F2012%2F10%2Fold-time-trucks%2Fback-when-ford-trucks-were-1%2F&psig=AOvVaw1mrK9EUVnaWnEYpQLa8Ma4&ust=1733675512032000&source=images&cd=vfe&opi=89978449&ved=0CBEQjRxqFwoTCJibkOGKlooDFQAAAAAdAAAAABAE

One of the great perks driving across rural Montana, seeing the lambs and calf's in the early spring, and watch them grow though-out the year.

The 9670's had good heat, but you needed to use a winter front or the dog house got cold enough for frost on a shifter. At -35F and the winterfront buttoned up tight, the door weather strip was the next cold air leak. That much aluminum, and that cold, it is amazing that it could be comfortable. Vapor trail following the truck over mile long! My Marmon, the screws holding up the headliner would be white with frost build up.

Here is Phillips-Temco's catalog: https://phillipsandtemro.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/2017-Zerostart-Temro-Web-Catalog.pdf Big mfg of block heaters. Or you can go with Ebersptcher or Webasto combustion heaters for cord free pre-heating.

Last I knew you could still get them new from any Interstate Mcbee dealer. weren't expensive. IIRC I never went below 17 or 15 depended on the size of the injector nozzle. Too much pressure on a nozzle that can't spray enough volume can wipe the cam or break rocker, bend push-rod. Without enough air you crack pistons and shake the liners loose. A little brown out the pipe pulling hard is fine, "rolling coal" is just stupid and damaging. I haul OD loads and often was wide open all day, you wouldn't survive the trip if you were "rolling coal" the whole way.

On mine, I can put a shut off valve or solenoid on the line from the button or nose of the starter to the big relay valve on the tank, so it will not start without a key. A hidden shut-off in that line can be hidden, and doesn't have to be as air tight as the button as it only "sees" pressure when the button is depressed. My Cummins powered cab-overs used a gas rated solenoid and the original electric start button, the Cat powered Marmon got the air button and cable shut down.

My 3406B Cat has the solenoid removed, air start, cable shut down doesn't need power to start or run. Both Cummins had the fuel solenoid operational, but the power required is minimal. Still have a selection of "buttons" for Cummins pumps and at least one "rebuild kit". Easy to turn up a Cummins pump, but also easy to screw one up if you have no idea what you are doing. Or at least turn one up so it doesn't do damage long term.

Cost wise, at least a few years ago were about the same for 10R20 and 11R22.5 of like quality. Problem come in when you look at availability, every tire shop has many 11R 22.5, most decent 10R20's would have to be ordered in, along with a tube. I ran both OTR, and finely started phasing tubetypes out because of the availability problem..

ever get your tires sorted out?

May be just a "trick of the picture" but the picture of it on the road, looks to be a different truck than the pic's of it stationary. 1 spoke vs. disk wheels. 2: hood OAL 3: intake pipe.