Geoff Weeks

That light gauge wire is enough to balance any slight difference in the current through the paired coil path, but I don't think it is heavy enough to carry a full 1/2 of the current draw of the starter. Yes, mine have that wire also. I don't remember what gauge it is, something like 14 or maybe 12 at the most. Like I said, I don't know what is going with those coils, they are NOT the same as the stock set-up. I am just guessing here, but I wonder if for 12 volt they ran all the coils in series, but in that case there should be a large conductor tying the two "hot" brushes together, the same size as the series coil stock itself. That little wire can not carry that kind of current. All I can tell you for sure, is that is not how the stock motor is set-up. If you can, bolt the pan back up and run it for a few hours to flush more gunk out of the block, use RTV or the old gasket so you don't waste a new gasket until the final time the pan goes up. I was surprised by how much more stuff came out after the 1st cleaning.

Got curious so looked it up, according to my manual for the 1973, slippery road reduces the pressure to the steer brakes by 50% , so a 30 psi at the treadle would result in 15 psi at the front brake chambers.

The wet/dry road didn't "kill" the front brakes, it reduced the pressure provided to the front by a percent of brake pressure in the system. I don't remember the exact percent, but my '73 and '69 had the manual valve on the dash and a "ratio" valve before the front brakes. Modern trucks have the same thing but is automatic will provide full pressure if the brake pressure rises above a set pressure (60 psi?) and on lighter braking reduces brake pressure to the steer. That is different from when no steer axle brakes, where brakes were not fitted on the hub. Driving a bobtail tractor with no front brakes on the axle on slick roads is a real pucker factor experience. Over the years different things were tried to address the front brake issue. Before the dry/slick manual controlled valve, smaller chambers on the steer (today type 20 is the most common) but that limited braking on dry roads. No front brakes, Larger chambers and either driver selected or automatic limiting pressure were tried. Today automatic reducing valve and large chambers are what is used to meet braking stopping distance requirements, where standards dictate stopping distance loaded and loaded with 1/2 the system inop. Front brakes that can deliver maximum braking force on the steer are the only way to meet these requirements.

How does the CH do dump? In general, there are 3 ways to do it. 1) uses a small air line (pilot air from the dash switch, air controlled) that operates on a level valve with "pneumatic dump feature". 2) switch is electric and operated a solenoid valve between the level valve and bags. 3) is like the 2nd, but operates and air solenoid that supplies pilot air to an air relay valve between the level valve and bags. If you know which system the truck uses, then you can know the weak points and where they can fail. 2nd and 3rd type have a solenoid and wiring down in the salt and muck spray, the electrical portion is the weak link, but the 1st & 3rd can also have a relay valve that is stuck. The "relay" valve is the same one often used on trailers to dump the suspension when the brakes on the trailer are set. I like the 1st design as it is all air operated and less prone to failure from wiring/electrical issues back on the frame.

I think it was even later then the 70's, the July 25 1980 according to FMCSA website.

Sorry I didn't see that earlier. I don't think there is a way that would give the factory result, if it would work at all. For 12 volts, I would look at L/N and a SAE #1 mount. I don't know the cost, but you will have something that can be repaired/replaced easily. I am sticking with 6 volt so staying with the old Delco. I did try an new "aftermarket" armature and found them to work well.

I don't think that is correct? What does your old one look like? If needed I can open one of mine and see if my memory is any good.

Do both the "ends" have holes in them to be screwed to the brush holders? If that is the case the center covered in black gets attached to the stud.

Joey, one thing I just noticed, It looks like coils are all in series? IIRC on mine there are two sets of coils, each had a "north and south " in series and the two groups are in parallel, so two coil ends at a brush holder. In your picture I only see one lead that connects to the stud and one end that ends at the brush holder. Either I am not seeing something, or those are different then what I have in the 4 starters of that type I have. It is possible my memory is faulty, but I remember it being different.

It shouldn't get hot, but it can. the surface area where the windings connect to the stud is small. Solder has worked for me, but if I was going to do it over, I would use silver solder. Absolutely necessary? no, my starters are proof of that. I just feel it is worth the effort. It will take future stiff nut threads (from)breaking the soft solder. Where he is putting in new windings, I'd go the extra mile.

The issue /question is can you get the stud in place with the field welded to it? I hadn't pulled my field pole shoes, so there was very little room to work. With the pole shoes out you should a lot more room/options, but I didn't do it that way, I was just trying to repair a connection that had broke loose. With the pole shoes bolted in there isn't enough movement in the ends of the windings to do much more than depress the stud away from the case. So not having done any repair with the pole shoes out, I can't give concrete advice on what is possible.

There isn't a lot of room in there, so I don't think there is a mechanical means to tie them to the stud. I tried propane and found it wasn't hot/concentrated enough. I used my smallest oxy tip and worked fast, but as I said, If I had to do over I'd use a jewelers torch. The way I did it worked, but was less than ideal. some of insulation wrap got hotter than I'd like. Mine still work just fine. Every time I have to crank a bit to prime, I cringe thinking "you dummy, you should have silver soldered it"! I'd "dry fit" the field to the stud then push the stud away from the case and insulator (to minimize the heat transfer to the case) and solder.

Silver Solder is a bridge between brazing and soldering. Silver content can vary with higher silver content having a higher melt point. In this application both the ability to hold the pole windings to the stud when heated and the ability of silver to conduct better then "soft solders" are a benefit.

Joey, If I were to do it over again. I'd buy a "jeweler's" air-acetylene torch and a small tip. You need heat but in a smaller area then the typical oxy-acetylene, and go with silver solder. I think that way you'll have the best chance of a permanent repair regardless of what voltage/current draw passes through the connection. The key is the small, concentrated heat source.

Last I looked brake bolt were still available.

Worse case you can order the raw materials from McMaster-Carr. Brake lining material and rivets.

blank lining can be cut, formed, drilled for rivets, and counter sunk. I used to get brake shoes for the English buses re-lined, and there was no buying pre-made linings for them here. I assume there are still places (likely not as many) that do that. I cut bulk lining and drilled, counter-sunk and riveted brake bands for the semi-auto transmissions in the buses. Worked like a charm.

I have used solder but I suspect silver solder would be better. At least you starting with all new and clean parts.

One thing that came to me after a nights sleep. Have you had the pan off? These old engines with non-detergent oil allowed the sludge to accumulate in the bottom of the pan. The oil pick-up screen was designed to "float" above the bottom. (it actually pivots on its tube). If you haven't had the pan off, I would pull it and clean. On mine I wanted to re-bearing but being as old as it was thought I better look at the bearing size 1st. Dropped the pan and cleaned it out, sparkling clean. I put the pan back and it was a while before I found new bearings (may be a month of running) and was shocked at how much more junk had been washed into the pan again. P.S. 15w-40 works great, just don't try and start it after sitting at -23F all night on 6 volts with that in the sump, like I did. I was moving and we stopped at a motel, and the temp took a nose dive while we were sleeping. We had my Explorer also, so pull started it.

It will, mine was 12 volt - when I bought it.

Since the filter provides a restriction between the main oil rifle and the sump, removing will not change the pressure. the restriction in the housing limits the flow through the filter to the sump. a restricted filter would not change the pressure. You could try shimming the relief, but I would guess the bearing clearances are more likely. I can't remember if you went through the engine or not. Main bearing sets are hard to find and come in two types, thrust washer type and conventional rear main with thrust surface on the bearing shell. You can use either type, but you have to either remove the thrust washer retaining pin or notch the shell to clear the pin and leave it in place. On mine, I tend to think may be the oil pump shaft bushing may be worn and leaking pressure out of the pump past the shaft bushing. It tops out at about 40 PSI but hot it drops a bit.

Although they are a bypass and don't do a great deal of filtering, I don't see any gain by not having it in there.

No, no change to the valve cover. There is (on mine anyway) a 1/4" NPT port that is hooked to the air cleaner in the original set up. I remove this tube and the flare adapter in the valve cover and use a thread in PCV valve in its place and connect to the vacuum port on the manifold. So it draws air in through the fill cap metal gauze and the fumes out the valve to the manifold. As to oil filter, I have one, my 1942 has a Michiana with a paper element and two with a Deluxe with the "sock type" filter. I can get the paper element from Baldwin filters, and have a few sock filters. I had thought of making an adapter and fitting an industrial "Spinner" filter. The ones for trucks need air pressure to return the oil to the sump, the industrial versions are set for gravity return. Unless you want to re-route the oil from the oil pump to the main oil rifle, full flow filtering is not an option. I think you know the relief valve is in the filter adapter, so you can't remove the filter adapter as you'll be removing the relief valve as well. I think the socks are still available, but you may have to look a bit.

It is what I use, and much better than anything they had "back in the day". I put a PCV system on mine and it helped alot keeping moisture out of the crankcase.

My understanding from previous posts is: he removed all the wiring before working on the cab, so telling by the ammeter will not work. Modern gen regulators are universal. Original regulators will work fine on reverse polarity but the point contact make up was optimized for one polarity to give the longest life. Not something a Hobby truck will ever even notice. Without the original to go on, it is unlikely to matter and negative ground is universal today. If he needed to change, it is as simple as re-polarizing the generator and swapping the battery cables. It is the generator, not the regulator that needs to be polarized, but that is easiest done at the regulator terminals. Regulator doesn't require any change to run "reversed". Some early Western Star and Autocar's use gauges that are positive ground only and can not be made to work (at least easily) on neg ground. Transistor radios will be harmed on reverse polarity. Alternators with one pole grounded to the case will be damaged if hooked up reverse.