Geoff Weeks

It has been over 40 years since I was "inside" one, so I admit I don't know (remember) the insides of the housing. I'll defer to those that do! Only a thought, and I guess a bad one!

Real old Jakes had a foot switch to apply, I suppose you could. I would want a throttle and clutch switch, don't want it to come on if the throttle is above idle/no fuel position, and clutch keeps you from stalling out the engine when you step on the clutch for any reason. I have had both switches go bad on the road and bypassed them until I got replacements. Yes it will work, but I wouldn't design the system without them.

I don't know either, just a thought (may be a bad one) but I would think the housing would be more resilient than the plate, afterall the housing has to hold it under full load, the plate does not.

The ID of the tool is the most important, the legs just have to hold the tool in position so the plate is 90 deg to the housing base and at the right height to hold the bearing retainers in position Single reduction sets like the Eaton and Rockwell have large webs on the case 1/2 of the bearing retainer, so they don't flex outward when setting pre-load. Once in the housing, all are restrained by the housing so the don't spread under load. Be it Mack, Eaton or Rockwell. Mack, due to its double reduction and spur gear design, has a smaller case and less room to reinforce the bearing retainer area when it is out of the housing. It has been many years since I had a Mack drop in, out of the housing, so I could be off base. BUT if you have an old housing that is no good, I wonder if you could cut away the bowl enough to use an old housing for the tool? Just leave enough to work with of the old housing, set the drop-out in and set the pre-load and bearing retainer bolt torque then drop in the trucks housing.

I'd measure the inside of a housing to get the ID of the tool. OD is not important. From what I see, having never done one, its job is to hold the bearing retainers in the position they will be in, when in the axle housing, while adjusting the bearing pre-load. The legs hold the plate at the correct height on the bearing retainer, nothing more. With all "special tools" when prints aren't available, the thing to do is understand what the tool is doing, in this case, holding the bearing retainer in the position it will be in when installed in the housing. Because the bearing sticks down from the case, it will tend to spread if not externally supported when bearing pre-load is applied, the tool does this by being the same ID as the axle housing. Measure the housing where the "shoes" of the bearing retainer will ride, in an X pattern, have the plate machined to that exact dimension, then cut reliefs for the gear to clear. Leg height should hold the plate at the "shoe" of the bearing retainer. With prices north of $3000 for the tool, A good machine shop should be able to make one for less money. If you have a axle housing, and can bring it and a drop in to them and explain what you need, They should be able to make an accurate tool for the job. I have a guy by me that would likely do it for a few hundred, but would need the housing and drop in to know what he is being asked to make. Drawing would be best but I doubt you'll get your hands on the OEM drawings.

I found with flatbed any way, how well it rode depended on how well you loaded the trailer, far more than what suspension the truck had. I did my share in a SWB Fleetstar on walking beam. Also had a SWB cabover on 4 spring. Load over the axles and not "belly loaded" and the truck will ride fine. Fleetstar only had a T bar seat, empty and a good frost heave will send you, but loaded well it rode fine. If your playing in the dirt, it doesn't matter what suspension, you are off road, and you are going to feel it.

actually, it was kind of disappointing. There was an awful lot of stuff that could have been a treasure if it had been kept out of the weather. Most of the stuff was too far gone, although there were exceptions. The BC170 (listed as a R190?) IHC looked like it could have been driven off (ex fire truck, so spent much of its life indoors). If that BC had a 308 in it, I would be tempted, but the opening bid is too much. While it is fun to see some of the old stuff, it is depressing to realize most will be scrapped. I was interested in the K-6, but only for spare parts. Not worth my time to cut it up for the running gear. Body (cab) had a lot of damage not shown in the pictures. frame was hacked off in the back. If it had the original 48 amp 6 volt generator, it might have been enough for me to place a (low) bid. As it stands, it is likely worth more in scrap then in parts. Engine locked up, hand crank buggered up, missing grill, doors no good, dash bad, some of the dash controls replaced, those not are in sad shape. Best part of it was the sun visor and that was dented. Might be enough steel for scrap in the sheller to come out ok, but will take a lot of gas for the smoke wrench to do so. This was the 1st time I've seen anything that close to me, about 12-15 miles, close enough to drag home on gravel roads. There was more sheetmetal (fenders and the like) and a few more early trucks that didn't get cut out off the trees in time to be in the auction but are still for sale according to the people on site. The other thing that was irksome, they mixed parts lots with parts from other brands lumped together and listed as one brand. Obviously, who ever set it up, didn't have any knowledge or enthusiasm for what they were selling.

went and looked over stuff. Most of it in rougher shape than can be gleaned from the pictures. I had hopes for the KB-6 with the "sheller" on the back. Everything in worse shape than what I have already. Some of the tractors looked in good shape, but I wasn''t there for them. A lot of small lots of mixed parts that had nothing to do with anything else in the lot. A set of 4 NOS brake drums on a pallet of magnetos! Some of it looked like inventory of an old repair shop, some un opened gasket sets, a bunch of brake linings and some fuel pumps. You'd have to buy the lot, and do the work to determine if you ended up with gold or junk. Mack "cherrypicker" cabover has no engine and the twin stick trans (just sitting on the rear frame) has a chunk out of the bell housing. Quite a few 20's and 30's IHC wood framed cab trucks (Six speed specials etc) that the cabs have all rotted. I suspect a scrapper will get the lions share of the trucks, The "Dodge Powerwagon" is a Military IHC with a RED six (Big six) in it. There is a rare Coleman All Wheel drive.

Easy way to tell if the relief is working. Start it cold and once the gauge shows pressure, bring the rpm up to 1800-1900, if the gauge "pegs" then the relief is stuck, if it goes to 85 or so, it is not and that is normal oil pressure.

Unless you are running the "Golden Road" in North-western Maine, or one of the few other gravel roads that are made to run at "highway" speeds, it is unlikely you'll see why they have those screens in NZ and Aust. I've had windshields broken by Hiway patrol, when the pull back in front after passing and kick up a rock from the center line. No, he didn't stop and offer to pay for replacement!

Keep rocks from flying off the road and taking out the windshield!

There is no replacement for a functional radiator, the sooner you accept that fact, the sooner you'll be back making money. Heat can cause blown head gaskets, liner problems, and can ruin an engine. Try overhauling the engine for $2300, and then be right back where you are now. When I did mine, the out of chassie kit cost me $1500, and the radiator $2150. I knew the $1500 and my labor would be wasted if I didn't make sure the radiator could cool it.

either new core, and you know what you have, or used and its a roll of the dice. You need to cool the engine, what other option are you expecting?

5-7 years ago, mine cost $2150.00 So sounds about right. You can't "cheap out" and have long term solution.

Sorry to hear that. I went through the prostate dance 2 years ago. Mine is in a jar somewhere. I thought if you were going we could finely meet. We have been conversing since the old ATHS days, when my town was going to seize my Dart.

Terry, are you going to the inspection day?

Mack rears have a smaller "bowl" that sticks below the axle housing (being a double reduction rear) which can be a real advantage when working off road in rough work sites. For fuel hauling,on road, there is no advantage to the design, more bearings and likely more heat when run down the road. I worked on some Macks, but I had IHC, Eaton and Rockwell (Meritor) and found that all were good, and all had something that could have been improved. The Rockwell's were the only ones that outright failed on me, but they were put though a lot, before they failed, sometimes hauling 168K GVW on 40 K rears. All will work and if cared for give good service, but I think single reduction for on highway service would be the best. If the interaxle driveshaft is designed properly it doesn't cause problems or vibrate, despite being at angles, that is what U joints are designed to do. You have to get the pinion angles correct, so the joint angles are correct.

It is a double edge sword. Easy to get in too deep.

I was alerted to this auction that is close to where I live. Some old Macks and other brands, dating back to the teens though more modern times. I have no connection to the auction. I will not be able to research any listed truck for anyone, but may make it to the inspection day if things work out and if I do could take some pictures for someone interested in something not shown. https://www.vanderbrinkauctions.com/auction/online-only-antique-tractors-vehicles-parts-more-the-dennis-bates-collection/ Again, I can't promise I will make it to the inspection day (I am on jury duty call in) but if I go, I would try and take some pictures if someone had a truck they were interested in.

Check the breather line (not the vacuum line) for a constant draw of air into the hydrovac. If the the control valve is faulty, there will be a constant air intake anytime the engine is running. Under no braking, both sides of the piston are under engine vacuum. If the piston is leaking, there will be no intake of air when the brakes are released, but continuous air intake when the brakes are pressed. In normal use when the brakes are pressed, an amount of air is allowed in but should stop if the pedal is held a some position between the floor and released. The hyd cylinder section can also leak brake fluid internally so even though the U cup moves it doesn't build pressure beyond what the master cyl already provides. Also don't overlook the brakes themselves. My Hy-Torque style brakes on the rear have siezed up requiring complete disassembly and cleaning + lubing of the pivot points. Once that was done, the brakes would plant your face on the windshield empty or loaded, if you jumped on the pedal hard. Needless to say, these units require a good vacuum source AND a good source of clean air. Some units have their own aircleaner (either dry or oil bath types, I've seen both). If the air intake is not filtered, all bets are off of how much dirt and dust has got inside a clogged passages, or even mud dubbers. Some installs have the air inlet plumbed to the clean side of the engine air cleaner. There should be two bleed screws on the Hydrovac itself. You start by bleeding to the screw by the control valve, then the one on the outlet, then the furthest brake from the master and working your way back to the closest brake. Another problem I see, is people don't use vacuum brake hose (which is required by law) but heater hose or hyd hose that is not rated for vacuum brake service. This can collapse, and prevent proper operation. I use as much "hard line" either steel or aluminum, and only use short sections of vacuum brake hose to make connections. If the truck already has steel vacuum tubing (1/2 or 5/8") make sure it doesn't have pin-hole rustouts in it.

this has a bunch of interchange numbers to track down: https://www.webbwheel.com/webbipad/pdf_files/102-(65511).pdf Take a bunch of measurements and see if another inboard spoke drum can be machined to fit that application. 16.5 x 5" drums still show on a catalog that is a few years old.

Original 3rd series could have a leather piston, so neetsfoot oil would be appropriate, but COULD have a rubber one, in which case jack-oil would suffice. On the hydraulic side, brake fluid should pass through from the master to the wheels. If it is leaking brake fluid into to vacuum line back to the engine, then you have to address the hyd side of the hydrovac. Again, I have 80+ year old unit that are still function. WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS???

Again, What are the symptoms? Oil will not solve a problem. It is PM. It can not cause no brakes, only no power assist.

That was the name I was looking for!

What are the symptoms? I have 80+ year old hydorvac's and they still work. You have to bleed them in the correct order, or they may not function properly as air gets trapped around the vacuum control valve if it isn't bled 1st. Also another "must" is a check valve in the vacuum supply between engine and hydrovac. It keeps combustible gases from being drawn into the hydrovac when the engine is shut down