Geoff Weeks

I am kinda anal about my wheel bearings. 1st I tighten them down to make sure they are seated and not cocked on the spindle (got fooled once in my youth, and never did again). The I want to be as close to zero preload as I can get without any runout. It isn't as easy as it sounds, when you tighten the lock nut it takes the slop out of the threads and makes the bearing a little tight if you set it to zero before you put the lock-nut on. I come across far too many that are too loose, too tight tends to destroy itself in short order.

The tank on my Marmon came from a CCX, it was a replacement for the original Roadway tank that developed a rust hole. I also have a Mack one from Mander's that is aluminum, that one I'm keeping!

Mack uses (as does most if not all heavy diesel) an SAE #3 starter mount. No problem fitting the bell housing. The problem can come if the chassie has the steering box where the new bell has the starter placed. That bell was not used in that chassie, and that is were "real estate" problems come from. I can fit a modern gear reduction 12 volt starter to my 1942 K IHC because it takes an SAE #1 starter. Standardization can be a good thing. There is an SAE #2 starter pad but it hasn't been used in 50 years or so, since the demise of the big gassers. Looks just like an SAE #3 but the bolt holes are smaller and I think closer in.

Looks like someone had Stemco "grit guard" seals on that one. Also looks like the shoe pins need to be replaced/ freed up before that becomes a big task. They already look "frozen" into the spider. Need to knock the "wedding band" off the spindle before putting a new seal on. Since you have the old seal, look on it for the seal number.

Marine sometimes use hyd starters with a big accumulator. If you have an air system or hyd system (most ships have at least hyd, if not both) cranking other than electric makes sense. Ships don't use the hull as "ground" so two wires required to everything. Conway used to have air starters on their trucks, were one of the last large fleets to do so. My contention is with all the power required for a modern electronic engine needs just to run, having cranking powered by some other means didn't bring the advantage it used to. You still need good battery power to get it to run. My Marmon will start and run with no batteries or alternator present. Cummins trucks needed the fuel solenoid powered or the overide screw turn in.

I had a CB as it was almost required for O/D loads for communication with the escort cars. I kept mine around for the weather radio function mine had. even before I did O/D I didn't spend much time on the CB. Some customers wanted CB to bring marshaled trucks in, had to sit in a remote lot until called.

I wonder if this will help? It shows different width V bands sections for different sized bands. Eaton marman clamps It shows as narrow as .192" width.

Yes, if you look at the drawing or if you have the cover off, you'll see when the main piston comes all the way up, a little "pin" that is adjustable, pushes on a little check ball and dumps the hyd pressure to the return so you don't have full hyd pressure on the steering that is "bottomed' against its stops. It is the same on the bottom cover. Once the box is on the truck and hooked up, you adjust those relief stops to dump pressure right before the box is hard against the end of travel. You can see when it is apart which way it has to go on when going back with it so the pin is in the right position I was always working by myself, so if I could avoid pulling the whole box, I did. I did do a couple box replacements by myself, and paid the price with my body doing so.

before removing the top cover mark its orientation to the main body, it has to go on so the relief adjusters will hit the relief ball when the box is turned to the end of its travel. A coupla punch marks will help make sure it is on the correct way.

un bolt the top ring of bolts, then rotate the input to force the input and top out of the body. the "thread"on the input into the valve body is a multi start thread, so try and observe what position the flat on the spline is in when you put it all the way out, so you can put back the same way. It doesn't effect the workings of the gear, but the steering wheel will be "off" if the flat on the input is in the wrong position when you go back. You need enough room over the box to be able to thread the thing all the way off, but the rest of the gear stays put in the truck. once the top is out on the bench, you drill out the retaining pins and un screw the gland nut to remove the shaft from the top cover and replace the seals. No need to remove the whole box and it doesn't help having it out, as long as you have room to work with it in the truck.

Yeah, it is a 592S, the sub model you don't need to know most of the time, it has to do with indexing the output gear and the pitman shaft. Those repair kits should work. Most times I only need high pressure shaft seal. The big question is if dirt has got into and scored the input shaft. When I've done mine, the only time I went deeper in was when the bushing supporting the pitman shaft was worn enough that I had to pull the guts out and replace the bushing and output seal. Many time I can replace the input shaft seal with the box in the truck and the output shaft connected to the steering.

Here, attached is the manual. Sheppard-Manual-92-Series.pdf

Looks like it: 592 box

Vlad, that seams to be a "Three number" series Sheppard. It might (likely) has the three digit number cast into the housing on the one side you don't have a picture of. The complete number includes a sub-model that will be stamped into the face under the spacer that is held on now by one bolt on the output shaft side. I think I have posted the manual for these, maybe in @mowerman thread. If not I can go looking for it in my files and post again. These boxes tend to leak at the input shaft, and that is a high pressure seal. The grease zerk on the side is there to pump grease in and force dirt out of the outer seal before it can damage the inner seal. It is real common after they see a lot of years use, for the shaft to wear to the point it will not "take" a seal, and then the hard shaft has to be replaced or welded and re machined and then hardened. The output shaft seal is in the low pressure (return side) of the box and doesn't often leak even when the bushing behind it is well worn. I think 592 is the largest in the series, I don't know if that is what you have or not. I don't think it is the earlier two digit series. I think parts are still available but it has been 10 years or more since I got some.

Yeah, but trucks are not allowed on any of the "parkways" even pick-ups used to get tickets for being on there.

I pulled O/D loads into Boston and Philly, and since I grew up around Boston, its streets were known to me. Also pulled legal loads out of Philly. New York is known for mis-marked overpass heights. Many times they are marked 6" lower than they are, but sometimes they are less than marked. Makes for a bad situation. Even pulling O/D with a permit, you can't count on the permit office for not routing you into a low overpass. I have had that many times.

Kinda a long story, but has all the usual bits like pay off and deceit. Many were newer than 1968 model year but had been listed as older to skirt D.O.T regulations that took effect in '68. That was just to get them into the county, then there were pay-offs to run them in Chicago. Most came into the 95th st docks in Chicago, which was a problem as they are surrounded by rail bridges that were lower than the buses. rumor had it the buses cost around 3k and the shipping was about the same. I suspect the price was because they were too expensive to MOT/COF back in the UK. As long as the buses didn't stray far from Chicago and the influence of the politicians "on payroll" they were left alone by CPD. After I left he tried to run to the newly built casinos in the Indiana and that along with changes in the Chicago political seen became his downfall. That and the way he ran the business. Getting them from the 95th st docks to downtown Chicago required running down the rail right of way, into Whiting, IN where there was an "at grade" crossing and then make your way back into Chicago, which was also a problem as the height exceeded 14' and the bridges are only 13'6 for the most part. One time a bus lost its diff and had to be towed, We informed the tow company that they would have to remove the steer tires and use an under-lift to keep the height down. There are tow provision behind the front valance panel. Tow operator lifted with the tires on, cleared the 1st bridge on the expressway, and "hammered down" and hit a bridge hard, folding the upper deck back and blowing out all the glass on the upper deck.

I lived in Chicago for 5 years and worked there longer. Like any city there are safe and un safe areas. If you had been there 10 years earlier, you might have been confuse by all the Bristol Lodekka's and Damiler Fleetlines running around "the Loop". (that I maintained) If you like music and the blues esp, there is no place like it. I am not a city person, and did not like living there, but I walked home many late nights (or early mornings) from listening to friends at a "gig". I also 1st drove semi's in the city. (ok I drove a Mack 5 spd bobtail a few mile when I lived in Chelmsford ,Ma but that doesn't really count). Learn to drive semi in Chicago and the rest is easy.

Sounds like you need a 4.5" Marmon clamp. Have you tried Grand Rock or other exh supplier? Edit Marman is the correct spelling.

No worries, we have the same type papers here, besides I can't read Cyrillic anyway!

It is the rectifier that fries, the rest doesn't care. On the old L/N that use the external regulator, the rectifier would be spared until the ign is turned on and the rectifier is connected to the rest of the electrical system. It is why I urge caution, because if you hook-up wrong, you may not fry it right away and then do so when you hit the switch, giving a false sense that you have it correct. In all alternators that is what fries when hooked to reverse polarity, you can fix by replacing the rectifier but better not to fry it in the 1st place. edit: It might also fry the regulator depending on type.

Not quite right. All alternators will be damaged if connected up backwards. SOME can be reconnected BEFORE the power is connected and no damage will be done. "case neutral" (modern L/N JB series) and older L/N with remote rectifiers), can be used on either polarity. Both will be damaged if accidentally connected up backwards, just like most other solid state devices. Because the O/P of this thread didn't know the polarity of the truck, it is important for anyone in that situation to know that with alternators you must know (and is often a way to determine the polarity) BEFORE connecting batteries. Same for electronics like radios.

That seamed to me to be an even handed look back, at least as far as the history as I remember it from living back then and from what I was taught about the "early days" of the Shah. Interesting to hear it from a prospective produced outside the US.

I would be surprised if the regulator doesn't work just fine from the get go. I had a few from the early 40's still working fine. They really did a good job when they made those. As long as the commutator isn't bad or someone didn't cranked down on the current regulator and burn the windings, the genny should be good also. Just lube the oil cups and make sure it spins easy. I have purchased I don't remember how many off E bay and once cleaned up they work just fine. I don't buy ones that look like they have been under water or all broke up, but just good generally used condition You can test a generator by "motoring" it. Connect the battery across the output (A or Armature) and the case and it should start to spin.

Vlad, I can't explain what you have observed, I only know theory (magnetic poles are determined by direction of current through the coil) and in practice, with trucks I have had that have been reversed at least twice in their lifetime. When the current direction is reversed the N and S pole is reversed, but because both are in series, both the armature and field poles are reversed together, so the relative positions to the two magnetic fields (armature and field) remain the same and the motor spins the same direction. When you reverse one relative to the other, it will spin "backwards. It is why generators don't care which polarity, they just need the shoes polarized before they are spun for the 1st time. You don't have to "spin them backwards" when the polarity is changed.