Geoff Weeks

I know! It is a CRS (can't remember S$%^) engine!

Look along the frame rail, there should be a 4 or 5 wire cable for the lights. Unless someone has totally ripped this truck apart, that is where the factory would have run the cable. I have diagrams for 1973 but not newer. They might tell you the color codes for the wires as those tend not to change much over the years.

I thought/think he is refering to the "peanut valve" in the splitter cover. I don't know if they still use it, but it could be part of the problem. B11 in your picture

New bearing installed, but ran into a snag, My soldering irons aren't big enough to heat the slip ring to get a good solder joint. I got them to release with a torch being very careful, and could likely get them back on the same way, but the stator bars need to un soldered and re soldered to wires. That is also going to require more heat than my electronics soldering iron can provide. Too much copper to dissipate the heat. So I'm off to buy some good old fashion irons in the 100 watt range. I took pictures of the slot and wooden "wedge" that goes under the bearing to hold the wires. Got the 1st slip-ring back on. I also took a picture of a JB series rectifier lay'd on the rear housing. If you could make the metal "can" to surround the rectifier and used Lexan sheet to insulate it from the rear casting, I think you could duplicate what I have. You need the "can" to direct air flow over and around the rectifier so it will cool. The next problem to solve is: The truck wiring is not up to 100 amps of charge. The ammeter is 50 amps, and that is about all I want to put through it. I don't want a shunt type modern ammeter as it will detract from the truck's originality. I have the L/N 100 amp regulator, which looks internally like a normal generator regulator with the current regulator removed. There is a place for 3 bobbins but only two are installed. I have found some manuals that suggest that a current regulator was used on some installs.The current curve rises and then flat-lines at 55-60 amps. Other current/speed curves show it continuing on up to the full 95 amps the unit is capable of. I think the chances of finding one of these regulators is about as good as finding another update kit! I can see no reason I can't use a 50 amp Delco, Ford or Autolite regulator in place of the L/N. I have done that before on alternators that I couldn't get regulators for. One step at a time. I'll first get this back together then decide on how to control it. I don't need 95 amps of 7.2 volts. 50 would be more than enough. I think L/N also felt that way, but wanted the high output at low speed that an alternator can provide (unlike a generator).

yes, slot in shaft.

Well, I got the slip-rings and rear bearing off. P/S pulley puller got the outer slip ring, then I grabbed the rear bearing, but didn't realize there was a tiny snap ring between the bearing and inner slip ring (hidden behind a fiber washer and 75 years of crud) once that was off the inner slip ring and bearing came off together. Everything other then the bearings can be re-used. Hardest part will be re-soldering the slip ring wires.

Messy bench time: Puller arrived today, and although the paperwork that came with the kit shows a 3 jaw puller, I think the correct 2 jaw might work better. Came apart HARD, but likely hasn't been apart in 75 years. Good news is the kit will mate the rear bearing with no mod's. Bad news is the rear bearing really should be replaced. It is dry and I could possibly clean and re-lube, on the other hand I have it this far apart. As stated earlier, the bearing is inboard of the slip-rings, so they would have to come off to get at the bearing. Not sure I could get them off in one piece. Interesting construction, the rotor is made in three parts front and rear shell and shaft. Big nuts hold the shells on the shaft and allow field replacement of the field coil, and even voltage changes by changing the field coil itself. Something not seen on modern units. Stator is bar wound and very stout. I'll likely pick up new bearings in town, then see if I can remove the slip rings in one piece, even the manual says that isn't always possible. If it seams like there is a problem, then I'll order two new rings and make sure they are correct before I go further.

yeah, I found out once, never went back after that. It was why I said "old Boomtown". Back in the 90's it had a big parking lot for trucks, then it got small then I think it went away altogether. Since I never owned anything new than a '92 I didn't go west of Reno much.

30 years ago I was in my sleeper in the old "Boomtown" waiting for morning to pull an O/D load over the hill to Lodi. I heard a 6-71 jaking down the hill, and pull in next to me, an old rounded nose Freightliner, mid 60's.

Somewhere on the .net there used to be a site where a Swiss trucker posted all his pic's from years of running from Europe all over the middle-east and even one trip to Pakistan via the Kiber pass (sp?). Almost all done in K100 KW with Detroit 2 stroke power. 1000's of pictures and stories to go with. I had it bookmarked on an old computer but somehow it got lost? All in the days of real film, so much harder than today with digital photo's I don't know if it is still all out there in cyber-land somewhere.

A while back, someone was looking for tubes and nuts for DI piping. I found this on an old hard drive: diesel injection tube and fittings (1).pdf

From what I remember, my unit came off a late 40's GMC tow truck. It still had the original genny on it as well, and the owner didn't want both.

The alternators themselves date back to the 40's at least. Looking at the kit, it could be easily reproduced. The original rear cover could be machined, the hardest part would be the new stamped steel cover that would have to be made fairly accurately so to clear the electrical parts while still ducting cooling air over the diode blocks. I checked, the JB series will fit but are "backwards" in that the solid part of the block covers the cooling air duct,These have the diode toward the outside, and the JB has the diodes toward the inside.

Rather than get further off topic, I started a new thread here:

Rather than clutter up the Fire Truck thread, I thought I'd post here. Today I got the N.O.S. Leece Neville kit to update old selenium rectifier units to enclosed diodes like a modern unit. Very well made, and very serviceable. Scanned Document.pdf 2.pdf Scanned Document3.pdf I never even knew these existed, and 75 years on must be scarcer then hens teeth. For 12 volt I likely wouldn't bother, but for 6 volts, there aren't too many alternators available and this one is "from the period". I would have been happy with a 48 amp Delco generator in 6 volt, but those don't come up often either. This kit was along the lines of what I was going to try and make. Using Lexan to insulate JB2500 series rectifiers on the back case. Comes with everything including new brushes and a new ID tag!

Cummins filter head on my 1942 IHC

Good reason to look up the parts book, and see what is required. I think the parts will be different for Mack rears vs. Eaton but am open to being corrected.

I have the complete manual for the suspension on my DT402, it shows the angle on the axle tubes for various axles, Rockwell and Eaton were something like 2-5 deg angle and Mack was 0, I think that would apply no matter what suspension you use because of the axle design and how the power flows through. From what I remember working on my Hendrickson clone, the axle seats are what sets the angle and the forward axle is different than the rear. I would think Mack top loaders would be the same as the Neway (0 deg angle) my DT 402s are on. Kind of a long way around to say I think they would fit the axle tube but be wrong for the angle needed for Mack top loaders.

I've been cited for expired "permanent" plates, I have been written up for "loose"input on a power divider (while stationary the spec is .065", drive torque forces it out against the taper bearing when running). You can't control what some officer "thinks", all you can do is be on the right side of the statute and bring it before a judge. An officer can and will think what they want, and you can't control when they are wrong. That is why judges exist, An officer is not a judge. As I mentioned, I didn't normally run caps on the steer for exactly the reason as there are plenty of people with a gun and a badge that don't know the rules either. However I was fully prepared to back up my actions with the statutes if needed. I've had to "educate" a few young inspectors about auto slacks not being required before a set date before. P.S., my "education" often starts by "could you print off the regulation so I can be sure I'm doing it right" If he doesn't see he got it wrong, I say "I don't see where I am on the wrong side of this..." Most, but not all, will see they were wrong and make a correction. The above with the expired non-expiring plate took posting a bond and taking it to court where it was thrown out and my money refunded.

404 and 405 are different I'm not sure all the differences but I don't think they bolt into 402 housings. To new for a person like me! As to what ratio, you have to run the math on what you have now, the transmission gearing and start ability on a hill with load, and make a selection that is the best for your needs. You can build DT's to 3.70, I'd have to look but DS might go below that. DT's all take the same "carrier" while DS can use differing carriers for different ratios. I'd rather put my money in getting the ratio right then the preferred maker of the axle. Unless there is a real problem with the design (Rockwell SQHD's were known for weak powerdividers) I just don't see what is to gain by switching makers. Most made in the last few decades are good, some do better in one area, but I can't think of a "bad" diff made in the last few decades. I've run IHC (now sold as Spicer) Rockwell and Eaton, and can't say one is better or worse than the other. When I changed from DS 402's to DT 402's the same driveline bolted right back up. When you switch makers you are going to have to make driveline changes as well adding to the cost for no gain.

If it is the Mack Clone of Hendrickson, I believe all the parts with the exception of the brackets that clamp around the axle housing, and may be torque arms the rest of the parts are the same. The clamping brackets set the shaft angle, on an Eaton it pitched "nose up" and Mack toploaders are level. I found out that Eaton housings are made that DS (single speed) housings will accept DT and DC (two speed and Traction Control) center sections. If your not changing the whole rear suspension, it seams like a lot of work and money to change axles housings for no gain. You can re ratio by just changing center drop out, and if you want more flexibility, add 2 spd centers for less work than whole cut off and change all the parts IMO.

After flushing as best you can, install a coolant filter if the engine doesn't have one. Flushing gets the loose stuff out, the filter removes the stuff that wouldn't come loose at flush time, when it does come loose and starts circulating.

Yes, the brushes are outboard of the rear bearing. While not as common as inboard, there are still some in use today that are like that. The Prestolite series comes to mind. They tend to be units that have ball bearings for the rear bearing. Ones with needle bearings that ride on the shaft have inboard slip rings. Brushed go in holders like this that screw into the rear housing .

In this case the internet is quoting the regs, both federal and state. So far you have not provided anything that shows they were cited for "caps on a steer", just hearsay that it happened. You can look up the CFR and the NJ code for yourself. In both cases the exact regulation has been provided.

https://www.traction.com/en/p/a-c-heater-mack-unit-grey-mei10-9725