Geoff Weeks

I'd likely flatten it out, heat it red hot and allow to cool slowly in sand. That should anneal it to make what is left usable. If you could hold the inner nut tight enough so you could really crank down on the outer (jamming them together) it would be good enough. Have to be careful not to change the pre-load when they are jamming, it will tend to reduce the clearance as the inner nut is pushed against its threads by the outer.

I think the one I listed and you crossed to Euclid is too thick for what he needs.

E 3 is a single line and E-6 is a dual line system. So no, they don't directly interchange or hook up the same.

Meritor doesn't sell direct Punch that number (R004868) into you search engine and see what pops up. I get a whole bunch of retailers. Just noticed the 5/32" thickness, that will not likely work for you. almost 3/16" not sure you could bend it over.

Looks closest to what you need Meritor wheel end

Meritor (formally Euclid) has those things in their catalog. Look up the number, then do a Google search and mail order what you need.

Got to remember a lot of European stuff has been 24 volt for a long time. Volvo just F%^& it up! The British and Austrian city buses I worked on were all 24 volt. Most motor coaches are 24 volt.

I've seen many truckers swap them around, I guess they have to be "different".

If you are talking quad, the outside bulb is dual filament and has both high and low beam, inside is single and is high beam only. SO outside always on, either low or high beam filament energized, inside is only on with the outside high beam.

You should never remove the center section on a loaded housing, you are removing a lot of the rigidity of the housing with that big hole in the center.

I don't, but for the last few decades only worked on my own stuff, and I used gaskets, not RTV, so they just popped right out.

There is a special pliers made for them. Clean, and a gasket and the cone come out easy. Yes, the common way is to remove the nuts or at least loosen to the last thread, then smack the flange in the center, it would pop the cones out.

yes

My guess would be taper locks. If the last person inside put the axle in a RTV gooped everywhere, when tighten down it oozes up around the taper locks and hold them in place making it big job to get them and therefore the axle out. Had to deal with it myself, and why I have premade axle gaskets still in stock on the shop wall years after I retired.

Pull the pin for the spider gear, and push in on the axle, drop the C clip out and the axle will slide out of the housing.

Looks like a Eaton axle from the end of it. Can't see if it has the taper locks or not, but the only other reason would be a twisted spline, and they tend to twist before the mating spline not inside it. Anyway you look at it, it is the wrong way to solve the problem.

Handy, yes, but it grows old quick, working out of a truck! BTDT. No one brings parts out to you, you have to go fetch, there are plenty of things "back at the shop" that you know you have but not with you at the moment. No matter how hard you try to think of everything you might need, there is always more that you don't have. Still there is alot you can accomplish with a mobile repair truck.

I don't see a problem. Tire are matched for size (no mis match casings sizes on an axle) I don't have cap tread designs memorized but it isn't the design it is tread circumference that is the thing you want to have even for best wear if possible. I'd run it and not think twice about it, replacing tires when the wear out, or if 1st cap, recapping again if in good shape. I used to run 3 treads off my casings (1 original and 2 caps) before scrapping.

Never used or saw one, but most shops will not have one, just use the time/pressure drop method, but that only tells you there is a leak somewhere. I have a sniffer for both refrigerant and combustible gases, spend your money where the tool will do the most work. I would walk around a truckstop parking lot (taking my dog for a walk) and I would see how many trucks I would "down" just from visual and listening to them while the dog did his thing. It was a large percent every time. One time there was a guy beating on the dunnage under a load of pipe. I asked why? "I'm 1500 over on my trailer axles" Ok, but moving the dunnage isn't going to change that! He almost threw the sledge at me, told me I didn't know jack! Rory and I walked on, he was still beating on that dunnage an hour later!

Lots of connection points on multiple or modular trailers. More tanks and valves to leak. Then there are a air snubbers on the pintle hitch, the valve to control them etc. I towed some jeep, trailer stinger set-ups, they had less valving then triple wiggle wagons with converter dollies.

Yep, everything is all new only once. The leak-off rate while going down the road (measured by time between compressor cycles) is a fairly good indication of system health. The rest can be diagnosed by applying the item is question and seeing how much air is "used". I bet 85-90% of trucks couldn't go 45 min between cycles while running down the road. 60% couldn't make 30 min.

Ah, a potato harvester! (around here no permit required for "farm equipment") so...

Do you have a cylinder chain vise and a HEAVY work table to bolt it to? without those it is impossible to repair some cyl.

I have trucks that will hold some pressure overnight Like 25 psi left. The real test of a system is how many minutes it will go between compressor cycles while going down the road. Best truck I had, truck and trailer on air ride, air wipers, would go 45 minutes between cycles of the air drier. Anything less the 15 minutes and you have work to do. I haven't seen an air system that will hold for several days on the main system. My air start would hold enough air to start for 4 weeks, but the main system will be empty.

Na, it is beacuse if you are a rookie, and trying to pull the loaded trailer with parking brakes on, you need full power available!