Geoff Weeks

More likely to be plugged tubes in the radiator, with a history of 8 flushes to get the clear water.

A 12V71 was 450hp or slightly less than 2 6-71's (238 hp). The 855 Cummins was up to 475 hp in Big Cam but 400-450 was the best configuration. When it went electronic (N-14) power was much higher. That said, in its time period it was one of the highest Hp engines people stuck in trucks, originally it was done as a industrial engine re-power, and later it may have been factory for turnpike doubles and the north slope oil field. Never operated or worked on one. The K Cummins (which I have worked on) was a better big power option. but $$$

All I can say, a year later, is the P/O is one of the most understanding I've ever seen. If I sold something and it was still on my property, either you would be paying rent, or it would be re-sold, or hauled for scrap. Sorry, but I think that must be said. About a year ago, you had said you were going to have it towed. Put it on a low-boy with over height permits if needed and get it where you can work on it, or cut your losses and move on.

You have enough there to take to a fab shop and have him make you one, either out steel or aluminum, steel would be cheap and easy.

4"x 15" is the common size. I'd give Vanderhaag's a call and see what that one is. One down! They may or may not, have another for the other side.

On my '42 all the original switches and pull cables were replaced with modern stuff. My '48 is all original. Replacement cab for the '42 has most of the orginal switches but one of the pull cables is gone.

Military and diplomatic families abroad are citizens of the country that their parents are. Yes, children born to parents that don't fit those two exceptions are considered citizens in most countries. Otherwise, none of us would be US citizens. Somewhere in your past and mine, our relations came from elsewhere, and their offspring became US citizens, If not we all would be citizens of where our ancestors came from! The law is clear, if born here, and subject to US law (not diplomatic or guest military who are NOT subject to US law) then you are a citizen. "Sins of the father" don't get put on the shoulders of the offspring. How do you know how a kid born today will vote when they become of age? Most peoples views come about during their maturing, and it is impossible to guess how someone will vote 18 years in the future, regardless of their parents view.

Using the factory headlight switch (delco) ? I have a back-up on a switch but I am looking into what it would take for a switch on the shift rail. Have you done that or just manual switch like I have?

Little seaching came up with this: https://vanderhaags.com/detailview.php?part=25343018 Newer type brake "S" cam but might bolt in place of what you have now. "T" brakes were obsolete over 30 years ago, so finding new replacements might be impossible. Used might be the best chance, or converting to something more modern. edit: blowing up your picture, it may be an S cam that you have. So that is one found. What size brakes do you have?

I believe what you have is a Rockwell "T" brake. At least it looks like the "T" I had on my '89 Cabover. What I don't know is if the backing plates are universal or the backing plate is unique to the Mack axle it is on (If you do have a Mack axle and not a vendor supplied axle). Rockwell Brakes, Field Maintenance #4.pdf https://midwestwheel.com/marketing/08Brake-Shoe-ID-Chart-and-Air-Disc-Brake-ID/#zoom=true

From and old post.

Well you are dealing with something old and odd ball. If the adjusters are worn but serviceable, then they go back in, if they can't be cleaned up and serviceable, or the teeth on the wheel are badly worn, then you'll need a machine shop to copy the old parts, and make new. I have done that before, and as long as the machine shop is good, can be the best bet. I had to have a part made for an adjuster on my Saab, which has the hand brake on the front caliper. Grand total for 2 adjusters was $70. Other would swap out the front and rear brakes (caliper, disks and hardware) (requiring an axle swap on the rear, new parking brake cables etc) to "update" to the system that parts are available for. When working on old, not available stuff, you have to think outside the box, and keep in mind, that if it was made by man, it can be re-made by man. The type of machine shop you want is a small shop that does repairs on older stuff, not a large production shop. Ask if they do the kind of work you need or can recommend a shop that does. Your parts look "all there" so at least you have patterns to work from. Shoes can take linings, and cyl can be rebuilt.

Been almost a month, and progress?

Grounds and bulbs. Most likely one side doesn't have a good ground, and backfeeds through the taillight filament.

Not sure what you are looking for? Your shoes look like they could be relined. Your cyl? they can be either be overhauled or sleeved and rebuilt. Parts like adjusters, often can be sourced by looking though buyers guides, although you need a good parts store who will have these catalogs and know how to look at them instead of a computer.

I always think of the late, great George Carlin when talking about stuff like this

As much as I am an "original" guy, I'd forgo those shields as well 1) they look fairly rusty 2) they only have a marginal effect in keeping grease off the linings 3) as your results show, they have almost no effect keeping oil off the shoes if oil bath bearings are used. Since you are going back with oiled bearings, then just toss them. I kept a set on one of my axles, because they were in premo condition, but there is no real advantage to them with oil bearings.

All else fails, should be easy to make one.

My experience is: the shaft is the vehicle mfg part as it has the location and orientation of the linkage arm dictated by it. Bushings and fork would be Eaton.

I agree with @fjh, check fuel pressure and diaphragm. I had one similar, came on quick, and got worse quick. changing fuel filters helped a bit but not enough. I my case it turned out the suction line was leaking air into it but not fuel out. Would show in fuel pressure reading or a sight glass placed in the fuel line near the pump. Just one of a few things that could be bad. In my case, not obvious to find but easy to fix. Fuel pressure, esp under load where the problem is happening, would help to narrow it down. A hand pump on the smoke limit device would be a good way to check if it is holding pressure or leaking right through.

I am working on a mount for an air compressor, and have a few 5th's that I could make a drop on mount on the flat bed for moving my storage trailer. If I were to be serious I'd have to replace the hydrovac with an airpack then it could tow semi's for real! As I posted some time ago, it has a 16K hitch and will have an electric brake controller for running electric braked trailers. K-7's could be spec'd from the factory with air brakes, but so far have only seen a picture of one spec'd that way. During the war, there was a need for trucks that could pull semi's and many hyd equipped trucks were retro-fitted with a compressor and airpac in place of the hydrovac. It turns out that the Leese Neville alternator is too big to fit where the stock generator is, so I can either have an air compressor or the L/N on the left side but not both. May put the L/N on the 48 gin pole and move its 48 amp generator to the white truck, or may opt to put the air-compressor on the gin pole truck, but that bed is too high to pull most semi's and the gin poles would be in the way.

Yeah, and why the '48 (blue green) doesn't have them. It can be done well, just not with what the P/O did on the '42 (white) truck. It has another cab and doors going on, that also have W/C mirrors. I think either are ok if done well. Small round does leave something to be desired, but it is also rarely out of the far right lane either!

Small round on an extendable stalk would have been factory. You need west coast that can extend away from the door a fair bit as the cab is considerably narrower than modern beds that you might want. Mine has the double A frame and then a loop for the mirror, but it rattles and moves a fair bit. Guy used all thread between the top and bottom A frame. I could make it better but haven't yet.

Which is all why I just put some grease on and take on a short road test. Always wise if running a tandem axle in gear to have both axles off the ground. It wasn't stated if single or dual, and I should have made that clear. when running, the rotation of the ring gear moves oil out the tubes, which keeps the bearing in plenty of lube, and why they don't run dry right after the seal starts leaking. Once stopped any excess (above the bottom of the tube) runs back into the bowl. Some applications it is not easy or possible to over fill. Grease and a road test, then let sit for a few min and check/fill to the correct level has always worked for me.

The spinning of the ring gear move oil up and out the axle tube, You only need to make sure you have enough oil in the bearings until that happens. You can: lift the rear axle and run at speed with the tires off the ground. jack up one side enough to have the oil run to the other side, then jack up the other. My way was to put a good coating of grease on the bearings when installing, then when the job is done go out on the road at 50 mph or so, then come back and top up the rear axle with oil. Oil will dissolve the grease and do no harm, grease will lube the bearings until the oil gets there.