Geoff Weeks

It has nothing to do with pressure, it has to do with an inverted U bend (at the top of the housing) that is above the inlet and outlet. It forms a pocket that holds air. You can have gravity or pressure on the coolant and it still will not cause the air to go below the coolant level to pass out of the pump. If you force the coolant in under pressure, you will compress the air trapped but not eliminate it. A vent line from the top of the housing allows the coolant to push the air out of the housing, gravity is more than enough to do this if there is an outlet at the top. If the outlet to the block was at the high point of the pump housing it would not be needed, but that isn't how this pump is made. By getting the air out of the housing, it makes the pump move coolant more efficiently, and leaves no air bubbles in the coolant to break on contact with the hot block and cause cavitation damage. All engines have some way to vent any air out of "high spots" in the system. Some have a small hole in the thermostat or a place where the stat doesn't seal off so air can pass. Others with Weir-stats, have a vent line to the degassing tank on top of the radiator. Air will not dissolve in coolant, it will always try to be above the coolant, if you provide a trapped area with no outlet with coolant below, it will occupy that space. Having an air bubble trapped in the top of the pump housing is like running a boat propeller 1/2 out of the water!

Yes, that will bleed it. You will notice in the diagram, the coolant "conditioner" is above the pump housing and runs to the thermostat housing.

How did they vent with the new housing? problem with bleeding once, is if the block ever gets drained, you have to do it over. IDK Macks but others sometimes have a internal bleed hole to vent the top of the pump housing.

That is not what I am saying! The inlet to the pump is at 3 O clock, the outlet is at 9 O clock (really closer to 4 and 7 oclock) , and there is no way to get the air out of the top of the water pump housing. Air will be trapped in the housing with no way out. It will cause cavitation. With that 3/4" nipple at the high point air will be pushed out of the waterpump housing. If you plug it there is no way for the air to escape. You'll end up with an air bubble. A bleed line out of the high point will force any air out of the pump housing and eventually to the top tank of the radiator.

Keep in mind you want some way to vent any trapped air at the top of the w/p housing. It doesn't have to be large (3/4") but some way to get the trapped air out. -3 PTFE line would be plenty. If it were mine, I'd cut the tube off and tap for a fitting to reduce to 1/8 NPT and a small breather line to the high point in the cooling system.

As far as Power steering, it depends, on what gear you have. Sheppard takes 10-40 motor oil as per Sheppard. 15w-40 has been the oil of choice until recent engines. Trans depends on what transmission. Look to the manuals, for the last word.

This shows the lower rad connection, through the oil cooler to the center of the waterpump. Yes, you need to vent the scroll to prevent air being trapped, but centrifugal pumps ALWAYS pump from center to outside. Where the outside is connected to the block (top, bottom or side) doesn't change the fact that it is on the pressure side of the pump.

This was the one.

I think you have that backwards, it draws through the oil cooler to the center of the pump, centrifugal pumps always pump from center to outside. The block is on the pressure side of the system. edit: hum the post I was replying to seams to have been deleted?

One looks to be on the pressure side of the pump (new one on top) while the other is on the suction side (lower). Not interchangeable.

There does seam to be something about the last name "Green" no matter how it is spelled, disrupting the SOU speech. I agree with 67Rmodel, it isn't just one side.

Any updates?

I hope I still have another good 10 years in me. I went looking for an older animal to take care of, Puppies often get adopted 1st (but don't always get to stay in that home😒). 5 years old was on the younger side.

Spoke hubs are all inboard drums, they have to be!

Koda, joined our family in Jan at almost 5 years old. Lost my last one in November, and I need some time to grieve before opening my heart to another.

I don't know much about the actual conversion, what was re-used and what was new. The engines were Detroit 11.1 L 60 series, and the transmission I think were Meritor. I remember the ads, "new truck for the price of used". I don't know if the frames were the same, it would look that way, otherwise why were the wheelbase limited to short conventionals? It was doomed from the start, the 11.1liter Detroit was the 1st electronic engine and while not bad, the displacement and power were not what people were looking for. I can't remember if the 12.7 L was a option or not. They were trying to use up what was already in the chassies. The bodies looked like Freightliners "business class" mid range with a hood that was different then their other trucks IIRC. That would seam to indicate that the original cabover frame was used and parts from newer trucks would't work. I don't think the program was a success, by any measure. I didn't pay much attention, as I wasn't in the market for new trucks, I always bought used and held onto what I had. When I retired, I sold my 1st truck I ever owned, it remained with me for the whole time. It was used when I bought it.

Paul, for a while Freightliner was converting their old leased cabover "turn ins" to short wheelbase conventional sold cheap. I don't know what all had to be changed, but they had leased so many cabover units to the big carriers that got turned back in when the length limits went away. No one would buy the old units, and they had to either export, scrap or find some way to get some money out of them. They overhauled the engines and transmissions and offered a warranty close to that of their new trucks. Still, there were not many "takers", some farmers that needed something cheap to haul short distances, bought them. They didn't learn their lesson, and there were a ton of conventional turn-ins a few years later. Used to be a huge storage yard not far from me of Freightliners sitting in a field, They would try and sell through dealers, but most just sat.

Ahh, the beautiful Iowa scenery!

Beautiful work. Labor of love not expedience. For a trailer, I would go another route. I got what was left of a parts truck. It had been cut up to make a dump trailer out of a rare tandem drive K series IHC. The complete truck, un cut was worth far more than putting the dump bed on some frame rails and a suspension.

To do so would have required buy in from congress and the rates would have to be in the bill. He wanted to threaten and then back down when other countries reacted. Unlikely he would get all republicans never mind any democrats to go along with it. So it would not happen. He is being told he is not "king" and can not claim a false emergency to dictate his desires. Like the "fake" emergency telling private electrical generators that they have to keep old coal plants "operational". There has to be an emergency for real, not just in his mind.

CERTIORARI BEFORE JUDGMENT TO THE UNITED STATES COURT OF APPEALS FOR THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA CIRCUIT No. 24–1287. Argued November 5, 2025—Decided February 20, 2026* The question presented is whether the International Emergency Eco- nomic Powers Act (IEEPA) authorizes the President to impose tariffs. Right at the start of the opinion. Congress can impose tariffs not the president.

Court never said that. They said the President alone can't make that decision. He most certainly can go to congress and they together can enact those tariffs if they think it is in the US interest. Once again, it is separation of powers that this admin can't seam to understand.

At this point it might be cheaper to go searching for a used suspension out of a wrecked dump trailer with a Hutch (or similar) single point suspension. From a cost/benefit ratio, something more modern will pay dividends in the future.

I know I guy who did all brake jobs with the wheels and tires on the hub, pulled them as a unit regardless of inboard or outboard. He claimed, and I can see his point, it was faster. There are tools that allow you to do it, or a large piece of sheet metal layed under the tires and a little oil/soap/water and you can slide them off as a unit. There was an ad in the back of landline magazine for a tool you could carry with you and slide the duals out, They claimed it worked on dirt/gravel. I can't find a picture of it now. I converted two trucks from outboard disk to inboard spoke hubs, I only had one truck that I left outboard/disk wheels. It was a back-up truck. I changed tires far more often than brakes, and preferred spokes for ease of changing and pure strength. Pulling hubs to do a brake job is not a deal killer. It was the norm for most of trucking.

Never heard of a hub that can be used with both inboard and outboard drums. Truck drums have a pilot to hold them accurately. Outboard drums are never located by the wheel studs alone. The hub section that goes against the wheel is further out in inboard drums, to allow space for the drum to mount inboard. Outboard drums the flange is further in to allow space for the drum between the hub and wheel. So not only is is highly doubtful you could find an outboard drum that would accurately locate on the hub you have, it would place it too far out for the shoes for full contact. everything changes between inboard and outboard. New hubs, studs, and drums.