Geoff Weeks

Some discharge vents are available for Air Source not sure the same ones that used. I thought you were looking for things like blower, Tx valve, drier and the like to get what you have there working. As far as grill-densor's they don't work very well with R 134a, you would be better served with a modern parallel flow type when running R134a R 134a needs a lot of surface area in the condenser, so many small tubes is better then larger widely spaced tubes. as far as "cabinet" pieces, then no I don't know where to locate new. Universal vent covers can be had by the size of the hole. No idea what the "key hole" opening was for. Red Dot still make replacement systems, or did when my Catalog came out. #10-9725 for gray #10-9726 for black

quick look shows Evans Kysor Red Dot and Signett all made units for the R series. You'll likely need to know which you have for some of the parts.

What parts do you need? Most everything should be available from MEI-Airsource.

better picture of the bearing bore:

My thoughts also, but two of the bearings at least have the same ID so it should be as "simple" as removing the slip-rings and replacing the bearing. I say simple, because I wouldn't attempt without slip-ring replacements being on hand. I think I have found those as well.

Since this post got a fire under my butt to finish off the 95 amp 7 volt unit I have. I found out Leese Neville made a "factor update" kit to put silicon diodes in the older units. Made to update the selenium rectifier units. I found one N.O.S. that I have coming, should be here Monday and I'll try to remember to take pictures. From what I could see of it, you get a new rear housing and a cover with the diodes, you remove the three phase taps and replace with a similar terminal block with +, field, and - being the output and input. I'm not entirely sure it will be a direct fit to mine, as I guess, the style alternator could have 3 different rear bearings and this kit fits only one. I am sure there will be a way to either swap bearings or adapt to use the bearing I have. It said 6 volt to 95 amp (mine is rated at this I think) and 12 volt to 65 amp. Not sure why that would be, as most diodes only care about current and PIV. Cost way more than doing it yourself, and not worth the cost on a practical matter, but will be going on a "period" truck and I didn't want it to look "hacked".

I went the other way and had a rim from 1947 on my '83 cabover for a while. If it was sound, I ran it. I've seen some much newer rims I wouldn't touch.

It is very common misconception, and one reason I avoided running caps on steer, because the confusion extends to some DOT inspectors. I at one time, had a paper that addressed that for inspectors that I carried with the truck. Police can write a ticket for anything, that doesn't make it true or correct! To be honest, I only had caps on the steer for one trip. The new steer tires didn't come in and I had to make a run. Took it from the midwest to the west coast and back with caps on the steer. When I got back the new steer tire had come in the the caps were rotated to the drives. The caps in the above tread design came in two depths, one for trailer shallow, and one for all other positions. Mine were "deep" tread.

My bad, I forgot I changed capper, when I moved Michelin XZE tread. Tire is a 10Rx20

You can get caps in many tread designs. I used to get them in "goodyear 159" type rib tread, that I ran in all positions. I didn't run "lugs" on the drives. If I remember I'll take a picture on the brand new caps on the rear of my Marmon with 0 miles. The weight limit on re-grooved only applied to steer position. Drive and trailer could be used to the full weight rating of the tire. Re grooved on steering is limited to somewhere around 4K lbs (I don't remember the exact figure) but for just about all purposes, a re-grooveable tire, would fall above that limit when on a steer axle. I guess maybe my K front axle is under that empty, not sure loaded. The "Pumpkin" likely was putting them on trailers, where they could take 6K each tire.

I find that very hard to believe! Show me in writing where your insurance company says that! J.C. has posted the federal regs straight from the book, N.J. couldn't have restrictions that the feds don't and receive hiway funds. It is why STAA rules are in place that standardize loads and equipment nation wide for trucks. Regrooved tires is another story. they are illegal over a set weight. Show me the citation or it is just another truckers story! "I heard" but didn't happen to me". There are plenty of reasons why a truck could be "downed" and need things changed on the front axle, and I can see a guy not wanting to admit to poor maintenance and make up a story about caps, but I would have to see it in writing to believe it. It is also possible the inspector doesn't know his job, but that should be sorted out in court.

Paul, I would order those tires you posted. The Mfg own website lists them as TT or tube type.

If you look at the regulation in the "green book" or the stuff J.C posted doesn't make a distinction between school buses and other buses. In my Green Book of the Federal Regulation, it uses the term "Passenger Carrying Vehicle.

Not exactly, the spokes force the rim out and that is countered by the solid lock ring, holding it from expanding. To dismount, you have to remove deflate (or deflate and remove) break the bead, place on a block near the split, then you put a rim tool into the slot, and pry the rim in under itself, pealing it away from the tire. When mounting, the safest is to air up after mounting to the spoke, the spoke will expand the rim, bringing the ends into alignment and holding until air pressure can hold it. I have a bunch on my K's, I still prefer split lock ring style, but I restored a bunch and mounted tires on. It was hard to find lock-ring style in narrow enough width.

That is an extremely common one and many police inspectors get it wrong. It was something at the CVSA class the instructor harped on. It only applies to buses. The old Goodyear rim that splits along the valve stem slot is another rim that most young inspectors get wrong. The claim the rim is cracked all the way through! Ok, what is holding then?

I have many "tire shops" say multi-piece rims are "Illegal" I always correct them, They are not Illegal, you may refuse to work on if you chose, but that isn't the same thing, Be honest about what you are doing. Not even the Firestone RH 5 deg (widowmaker) is illegal, it and all multi-piece rims/wheels were "recommended" to be made Illegal by the Insurance Institute, and insurance trade group, but they have no standing to make law. The Firestone is the only one I don't like to do. There is no good way to be sure it is going to stay together after all these years. The way they latch together is also where the most rust and weakening takes place.

Heard that also, I just laugh at them,

Yes they are!

I've even heard people say "Spokes on the steer are illegal"!

Re grooving went away, because once you re-groove you can't re-cap. Cap gets more extra miles out of the casing than you'll get re-grooving. also re grooved are not allowed on steers, caps are (trucks not buses)

wondering how you ever made out with your tire dilemma?

https://www.truckcomponentsonline.com/NEWAY-ASASB-BUS-AND-MOTORCOACH-FRONT-STEER-SUSPENSION-FOR-I-BEAM-STYLE-AXLES_c_1515.html https://www.hendrickson-intl.com/products/airtek/airtek-nxt

There were/are a few that mfg air ride for steer axles, and it is a complex setup. steel leaves are great at taking side force as well as vertical load, Air is not!

Ok, you asked for it. I am expecting to be called "not fit to burn" by some, but many years ago I had to design a lift axle suspension with some very tight specs. While none of that directly applies to your application one part does. I had to research and understand air bags as they relate to spring rate at different heights and loads. Simply put the more deflection under a given load the "softer" the ride will be. If you look at some air suspensions, the ones with the longest swing arm with the bags away from the axles, tall bags with rolling lobe type are the softest riding. Pancake bags have the highest spring rate (smallest deflection for load change) of all the types, and single convoluted bags are the stiffest of all "pancake bags". When you remove a leaf, you add more deflection for a given load, but when you add an air bag directly over the axle, you put that stiffness back in. In an ideal situation you would want the air bag more toward the shackle end of the spring to allow more deflection, but this makes a sharp load point somewhere on the leaf spring and will eventually break the leafs. Steel can have a soft spring rate or hard depending on how the spring is made. Tandem axles have an advantage in that some of the dampening can be done by shifting the load between axles. Single rear and steer don't have that luxury. A single convolute bag is just like a tire on its side, but much smaller diameter, and we already know how well tires dampen rough roads. They are better that solid rubber tires but far from what we expect. Ideally you would have the front axle spring deflection rate (spring rate) and that of the air bag you are considering and try and work out what removal of one leaf will do the the spring rate and adding the new air bag rate at the given ride height. All in all, I doubt any airbag placed directly over the axle is going to have much effect on ride. Double convolute would be better than single, but doubt there is room for such a bag. The smaller the bag the stiffer it is at a given height, and the higher pressure required to maintain that height. In my case, even with a deep dive into the way air bags worked, it took some trial and error in bag selection in both type and size, to get it as close as I could, and still was not ideal.

might be for some sort of speed limiter or cruise control