Geoff Weeks

Ahh, the beautiful Iowa scenery!

Beautiful work. Labor of love not expedience. For a trailer, I would go another route. I got what was left of a parts truck. It had been cut up to make a dump trailer out of a rare tandem drive K series IHC. The complete truck, un cut was worth far more than putting the dump bed on some frame rails and a suspension.

To do so would have required buy in from congress and the rates would have to be in the bill. He wanted to threaten and then back down when other countries reacted. Unlikely he would get all republicans never mind any democrats to go along with it. So it would not happen. He is being told he is not "king" and can not claim a false emergency to dictate his desires. Like the "fake" emergency telling private electrical generators that they have to keep old coal plants "operational". There has to be an emergency for real, not just in his mind.

CERTIORARI BEFORE JUDGMENT TO THE UNITED STATES COURT OF APPEALS FOR THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA CIRCUIT No. 24–1287. Argued November 5, 2025—Decided February 20, 2026* The question presented is whether the International Emergency Eco- nomic Powers Act (IEEPA) authorizes the President to impose tariffs. Right at the start of the opinion. Congress can impose tariffs not the president.

Court never said that. They said the President alone can't make that decision. He most certainly can go to congress and they together can enact those tariffs if they think it is in the US interest. Once again, it is separation of powers that this admin can't seam to understand.

At this point it might be cheaper to go searching for a used suspension out of a wrecked dump trailer with a Hutch (or similar) single point suspension. From a cost/benefit ratio, something more modern will pay dividends in the future.

I know I guy who did all brake jobs with the wheels and tires on the hub, pulled them as a unit regardless of inboard or outboard. He claimed, and I can see his point, it was faster. There are tools that allow you to do it, or a large piece of sheet metal layed under the tires and a little oil/soap/water and you can slide them off as a unit. There was an ad in the back of landline magazine for a tool you could carry with you and slide the duals out, They claimed it worked on dirt/gravel. I can't find a picture of it now. I converted two trucks from outboard disk to inboard spoke hubs, I only had one truck that I left outboard/disk wheels. It was a back-up truck. I changed tires far more often than brakes, and preferred spokes for ease of changing and pure strength. Pulling hubs to do a brake job is not a deal killer. It was the norm for most of trucking.

Never heard of a hub that can be used with both inboard and outboard drums. Truck drums have a pilot to hold them accurately. Outboard drums are never located by the wheel studs alone. The hub section that goes against the wheel is further out in inboard drums, to allow space for the drum to mount inboard. Outboard drums the flange is further in to allow space for the drum between the hub and wheel. So not only is is highly doubtful you could find an outboard drum that would accurately locate on the hub you have, it would place it too far out for the shoes for full contact. everything changes between inboard and outboard. New hubs, studs, and drums.

I ran a "dummy" rear axle as a tag. I left the center section in place (to keep grit out and to add strength to the housing. Greased bearing and axle caps. Over 100K mile like that with no problems. Then I swapped out the center and made a full tandem again. Grease does just fine. Looks like Vlad has the answer as to why none of recognized those hanger pieces.

Picture sure remove any doubt.

It sounds like you are very good at selling for less than you paid! In reality, making money on old trucks is almost never a profit enterprise, and more a labor of love.

The Allis was an updated version of the Buda 844 which also was very impressive in its day. Both failed do to not being able to keep together at the higher power settings, and lack of dealer network when they did have problems. Both did well in stationary/industrial applications.

Ever notice when one side cuts positions it is "waste fraud abuse" when the other side cuts budget it is "defunding"? He is not defunding, he is not hiring new police, but keeping staffing where it is now. Hardly defunding!

Pardon my bad drawing, I never was good at it. With a weir stat, the coolant flow through the engine for a given speed remains constant, regardless of it the 'stat is open or closed or 1/2 way between. With a conventional "stat" the flow is restricted to the small bypass line until the 'stat starts to open and more and more coolant goes to the radiator. The weir stat provides good flow all the time, so no "hot spots" when the engine is cold but working with flow reduced like can happen with a conventional 'stat. It take a different housing to use one or the other, the seal around the weir is something not there in a housing that takes a conventional "stat. weirstat.pdf

Coupla comments. If you look at the line drawing Vlad posted, you'll see the thermostat goes in horizontal and the outlet to the radiator is in the center of the housing with a seal between the weirstat and the housing. Yours is a conventional type where it sits with flow over the bulb and opens to the radiator through the "shutters" in the stat. You'll need a different water manifold, T stat housing and plumbing to switch between types. It isn't simple, and finding the right 'stat for that housing would be much more simple. Fan blades are made like that to reduce noise, nothing wrong with that type. They are common on engine without a fan clutch as they are turning at full speed (engine speed) at all times.

No, you can't fit that type in an older housing. That is a weir-stat and when "closed" all the coolant passes through the center back to the waterpump. The housings are machined totally different, with differing coolant flow passages.

Fairly sure it is a trailer suspension, not a truck suspension being used on a trailer.

Been across it at least once. Don't like paying tolls so if there is a better way...

Seams odd to be that far from the structure. Not odd that you wouldn't survive the fall, however.

Doesn't look like a walking beam I know. Looks more like a single point trailer suspension (Hutch) but not quite right either. Yeah 2nd the application info needed.

Cole-Hersee Mfg a nose box for trailers with both 12 and 24 volt inputs. They had resistors in the nose box to drop the voltage under load to 12 volt and 12 volt lightbulbs were used. Never saw one in person. They also mfg a 12-6 back in the day, never saw that in their catalog but did see one on E bay several years ago.

How do you guys handle trailer interchanging with 24 volt and 12 volt tractors? edit: I assume today, 12/24 LED's make it a non issue, but back in the day of your Cruiseliner? IHC I know could be ordered 24 volt from the get-go.

did you remove the factory check valve for the secondary tank? Cycling means the line from the wet tank to the gov is going from cut-out (125psi) to cut in (95 psi) in 15 sec. Why that is happening is the question that needs to be solved. IF the wet tank is not getting back fed from the secondary during purge, it can drop to less then cut in. Again, the drier uses pressure in the wet tank AND the secondary tank to purge and regenerate the drier bed. It can be possible the drier is defective. Get a union and tie the inlet and outlet hoses together (bypassing the drier) and see if it still cycles every 15 sec. If it does, it isn't the drier, if it doesn't you know you have a problem in the drier. You'll need a gauge in the unloader line to see when the compressor unloads. Are you sure you have the inlet and outlet hoses connected to the correct ports on the drier?

Read the instructions! You have to remove the existing check valve on the inlet of the secondary tank and replace with the valve provided. IT MUST be able to take air from the secondary tank back to the drier on purge to regenerate the drier bed. If there is some part you don't understand, post your question and I will try to help. I don't like these external purge volume driers. Too easy to be installed wrong or for the valve to fail. Internal purge driers like the AD-2, AD-4 and AD-9 don't need external source of air volume to purge the drier and regenerate the drier bed.

Ok, did you place it where they tell you in the instructions? It needs to be after the wet tank, in the line to the secondary tank. The original check valve in the secondary tank HAS to be removed and replaced with the valve provided. Anything less and there will not be enough purge air to correctly regenerate the drier bed. This is one of the reasons I don't like external purge driers. Too easy to install wrong.