Geoff Weeks

Outer seal was used with greased bearing in most cases. I think there is one where one bearing is in oil and the other in grease, that was mentioned a while ago on this site. I never saw that in my time.

Likely an old Stemco, and we are seeing the "wedding band". That is good news, as you can remove the band and replace with a modern unitized seal.

Look around the spindle where the seal rides, does it look to be one piece or is there a ring pressed on? What seal did it have? Stemco (leather) or something else? If it was a Stemco, you can remove the "wedding band" and use a unitized seal in its place. Something that old, I wouldn't want to say for sure. I know the English buses had a replaceable thick ring the seal rode on. I know the old felt seals (grease, not for oil) rode on the axle housing directly. If it does have a ring, to remove it, take a blunt chisel and hit the band in two places 90 deg from each other, you want to deform and expand the band, not cut it, and risk damage to the spindle that can leak.

I had to go look and according to wiki, the V series came out in '57! I didn't think it was that early!

Plastic is fine if it doesn't bridge the gap between two moveable things. It is a replacement for ridged copper line, not a replacement for rubber hose. So from pot to axle mounted quick release, plastic is fine. For pot to FRAME mounted relay valve it is not. edit: yes, I know it is used for the "curly tubes" for the trailer, but that is a special circumstance. I'll have to see if I can find where it is in the regs.

Yes, there are a few types. Old Stemco's used what was called a "wedding band" on the spindle. That may be what I am seeing there. There is also a "seal saver" which is a very thin stainless steel band that is forced over the spindle. Yours looks removable, not part of the spindle, but could be wrong, I'm not there looking at it. There is a way out no matter what, just how much money or work depends on what the part that is worn is.

I'd say you need a new wear ring for the seal!

Huntington, WV delivering brick.

I had two of those, 1st one was crap, cracked from the get go. 2nd one I kept in the one and only truck with stud pilot. They work but if you have to change an inner dual you'll be knackered before you get all 20 nuts off.

I think the 1st highlighted starter would put the solenoid close, but would have to be rotated to clear everything.

This shows the rotational choices with those two starters, I think one of the two should clear the manifolds and block.

Mine hand cranks so easy. The problems come when the gasoline evap's from the carb, then it takes a bit of hand cranking. I set my points with a dwell meter and the timing with a strobe, it never has tried to kick-back when set like that. It should have a hand choke and throttle. I give it a little throttle and set the choke depending on temp. Starting for the 1st time after sitting for a long time, I draw fuel up with a syringe, but still takes some cranking either electric or hand to fill the carb. Once it is full, it fires right off.

This claims to fit a delco 737-Z which is what the 269 takes. https://www.ebay.com/itm/282933350969 But IIRC you are going 12 volt, so I'd be looking in the Leece Neville catalog for a 10 tooth clockwise rotation SAE#1 starter. Last I looked they made some. Check the two highlighted starters

Well my memory is crap, I went out and looked on my Dart and the cab is by Chicago Mfg and it is on North Trumbal not Elston. So wrong about the name and location.

Hard to say, could be almost anything from a -7 through -10

Does sound like a cab grounding issue. Run a 10 ga wire between the cab and engine and cab and frame.

Diamond T and IHC, both shared a fair bit over the years, with Diamond T even using some IHC engines, but there was never any doubt which had more "bling" or was the upscale Mfg, that has always been Diamond T!

When I got my Dart, I spent a lot of time trying to find info on CC and didn't get far. Since the Dart data plate was missing and the frame so heavily modified, I was trying to find another angle to "date" the truck. CC was a dead end, and the Stewart-Warner gauge panel came closest to dating the truck to the early 50's. I does have a Chicago Cab plate on it.

McLaughlin Body in Rock Island, made a lot of cabs and stuff for the Military trucks, may be? They are or were still in Rock Island, Il last I knew. One reason I don't think Chicago Cab was involved as they seam to disappear around the same time, but the Comfo-vision cab continued into the late 60's. I haven't seen or heard of either truck mfg buying Chicago Cab, they just seam to fall off the radar screen. By the late 50's Dart was using other cabs, and were briefly absorbed into KW, then Unit Rig, then ??? CC may have made prototypes or may have had no hand in it at all. The Comfo Vision is like the Ford "C" Budd cab, that Mack also used for a short time, Did Budd stamp out all of them? I kinda doubt it. So many low volume Mfg used the Comfo Vision cab, whether they bought the stamping in knock-down form, or paid for the rights to make it, I don't know.

IDK, I don't think Chicago Cab made it, They did make the cab on my Dart, however, and that was around the same time period. I haven't found a lot of info on Chicago Cab, other than they were on Elston st in Chicago. The shear volume of Comfo-vison cabbed trucks make it unlikely it was produced by a independent cab maker.

Try owning a Marmon! "who makes Marmon?" Me: Marmon makes Marmon Other person: Yeah, but what company owns Marmon? Me Marmon Group Yeah but who owns them? I give up.

If it makes you feel better I have done the same, I think anybody who has worked around tires long enough has done it. Lock on chucks, and the tire falling over or getting bumped or hose getting pulled, is all it takes.

I miss the "good old days" when every car had a bumper jack, and the metal "foot" of the jack was just the right shape for breaking the bead on any tire! Line it up under the front bumper, install the jack and a few quick pumps (or ratchets) and the bead was off, flip the rim over and do the other side.

Air drier still need a signal from the gov to the air drier. That means two lines, one for the air pressure from the wet tank, and the 2nd for a purge signal to the air drier. That line comes off the middle port. Same port that goes to the unloader port on the compressor. He may have one hidden behind the intake piping, I can't see.

What I don't see (may be there, I don't see in the pictures) is a signal line to an air drier for purge. Does this truck have an air drier? Moisture and oil/gunk from the wet tank can get back to the governor if the tanks aren't drained EVERY day when in use, without an air drier. I, for one, can never be bothered to drain tanks every day. I had air driers on my stuff and never had a problem until the drier had some sort of problem. If you don't have a drier, they are not hard to install to limit future problems. You may get it to work by cleaning as Brocky recommends, but if you don't address the source of the problem, it may stick the next time you need the truck.