Geoff Weeks

No idea what that is for, pictures doesn't show enough. Tach drive should start around the Injection pump somewhere.

ok just an open offer.

No, the CPL is on the engine tag. It relates to the parts (pistons, fuel setting etc) that were used on that engine. You can also look on the fuel pump tag, and if it is original it will have the CPL on that tag as well, replacement pump more often have the "fuel code" in place of the CPL on the fuel pump tag.

If you have the CPL number I can lookup how it came from Cummins.

L-10 could be had in many Hp rating 240 was common 300 was the top for a while. Later "electronic" L10E went up to 330 I think.

I worked where we had two Volvo/GM's one had the 300 L-10 and the other had 855 365hp, not a fair comparison, and the 855 had the 13 spd while the little L10 had a nine. They also had a 3306 powered tractor at 300 hp, and I would say I like the cummins a bit better than the small Cat. Cat lost the timing gears and did a lot of damage, the L-10 had a slight head (coolant) leak for years and finely ventilated the block. Like many smaller displacement engines, they were often asked to punch above they're weight class. The L-10 head is a bear to lift off as it is all one piece of iron. I think a fair comparison would be L-10 vs.6-71 Detroit.

I thought so, thanks. But gets a few facts wrong. The L-10 is 611 CID, and the M-11 is 663 IIRC.

Does anyone remember when the L-10 came out? I don't remember seeing it before '83 or there abouts? 1974 sounds too early for it to be original. I drove one 300hp, 9 speed geared about that for top end. It has a RTO 9. It would run in the 6's MPG loaded. No power house by any stretch, but it did ok.

I don't know what Mack used, and I sure it varied depending on how the truck was spec'd. Size and shape of the wedges has an effect on how they seat on the spoke. Rockwell is the same as others when it comes to spokes. Often the hubs were made by Gunite or Webb not the axle or brake mfg. 4" is common also. I just meant that with that measurement over 6" a 4 1/4" spacer is a good place to start when you are trying to determine what is needed. It is the middle ground of what is common, if it is too wide and the wedges don't go on the spoke far enough ( too much gap between the heal of the wedge and the spoke) you can try a 4". http://www.plazafleetparts.com/uploads/2/1/9/0/2190100/spokewheel.pdf has a lot of good info on spoke wheels.

Don't blame the rims, for the old bias tires shortfalls. I have 10R20 radials and I defy you to tell the difference in ride to tubeless.

Missing the warning lights under the speedo/tach. Last time I had to buy a pump it was $1600 also. It died under load, pump shop said he never saw a pump with so much broke in it come off a running truck! I did my own pump as long as there weren't broken parts, but this one was done!

Ahh you have hit the nub of it! The mfg determines the spacing when they make the spoke hub. It can be hard if years later things have been mixed and matched. The spacer band and the wedges are critical to the assembly. I have found that if you measure from the front of the spoke (where the wedge is) to the back where it just starts to taper up, if the measurement is over 6" a 4.25 band is a place to start. Of course this means that you are using the stock wedges. If at all possible, look for the casting number for the hub and look up the mfg specs for the bands and wedges. You need to end up where the outer rim is placed where the wedges are far enough on the spoke to fully support the rim, but not so inboard that the wedge bottoms out before the correct force is on the wedge. It is nice when setting up an unknown spoke, to have a selection of bands. Again, if you can find how it came from the factory, you will be better off, but I have had to build some up without the factory specs. Too narrow and the rim will spin on the spoke, too wide and the wedges are not on the spoke and can snap studs and the assembly fail in a catastrophic failure. The spacer band also effects the duel spacing, but you don't change bands to try and fit a bigger tires and wider spacing, the spacing is set by the design of the assembly.

in 2000 when I ordered my 1st and only new trailer, I spec'd spokes. At that time it was considered a real odd ball. The chances of finding a trailer today being scrapped out with spokes, would be even more rare, still worth checking. Everything is Hub pilot these days. I even saw a side dumper trailer being delivered to its 1st owner, with 24" tubetype on HUB PILOT rims!

IF you have a ton of play, leaking or not, the turbo needs to be changed, if you don't have a ton of play, it is less likely the culprit, but yes I agree in rare cases it still could be leaking. The back side (shaft side) of the compressor wheel also sees full boost pressure, so can leak from either side.

I'd not condemn anything without more positive diagnosing. Could be a turbo, could be a cracked piston. Pull the inlet to the turbo and see how much radial play and axial play there is. It could be ok and still leak pressure through, but if bad, then you need to replace. Cyl leak down test will show a cracked piston.

I worded my answer very carefully, as sure as S#$% someone is going to measure the hole in the rim and find it is less than 20" and think they need the next larger size! Somewhere I have the exact ID and it is under 20" but that really isn't important to know. What is: anything that took a 20" tubetype can take a 22.5 tubeless if the correct "tubeless adaptor (rim) is used. Anything that took 22" tube type will take a 24.5 tubeless Anything that takes 24" tube types takes 24" tube type only!

22.5 tubeless rim fits a spoke that took a 20" tire

https://www.aspwholesale.com/rectifier-dr5180pf-delco-cs144-series-hi-output-200a-conversion-alternators even higher output unit, handle 100 amp with ease.

you guys are making your life hard, https://www.aspwholesale.com/rectifier-dr5178pf-delco-cs144-series-140a-iref-alternators Good for 140 amp, easy to find, just add a cooling fan.

There are plenty of automotive rectifier blocks that could handle 100 amps no sweat, the issue is the cooling. You need to provide some as well as an insulated case to keep them out of harms way.

Then it is just bolt on. Spokes would take a hub and cleat change.

Three heavy wires are output three phase A/C. the two light ones are field connections. You can use either an "A" circuit or "B" circuit regulator by either connecting one to ground and regulating the hot side of the field or connecting one to the DC output and regulating the ground side of the field.

Found a Military TM on them, it looks less and less like it would bolt up.

spoke or disk wheels?

It was used on many older Military trucks. If you un bolt and separate at stator (red vertical line) I believe you could remove the rear case on the Alternator in question, and bolt the rear case containing the diodes (and regulator, but you wouldn't need to use the reg) in place of the original rear case. I just can find a "dead one" at a reasonable price to try it.