Geoff Weeks

No, that is not where I am going with this. The rear section houses the diodes and I believe would bolt on to these early alternators, providing a pre made update to internal diodes, as well as the ducting required to cool them. Both these old alternators and the military units, use the screw in staggered brush holder that are outboard of the rear bearing, like modern Prestolite units are. It looks like the rear housing could replace the rear housing on these old units. For most automotive alternators the stator determines current capacity and the field determines what voltage they're made for. A 12 volt will produce 6 volts with a 6 volt regulator, but with the field being so much weaker the output is low and cut in speed high. Replace the field with a 6 volt one, or re-wind it will produce its name plate current. Most truck alternators use the same stator for 12 or 24, once you go to 32,36, or 48 the stator changes in most units.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/134992311495?_skw=military+alternator&itmmeta=01JM56DHY71RX68ZB4SW7340CB&hash=item1f6e2b34c7:g:FRYAAOSwVL1mAWfV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1c67QP3vaHzNB002bkvPLALu08M0vdP2S1AfXEsjc5Lc5P04Cu%2BhKvUzFVv695fWHe00GzEifoLmSugsfRU9IlDt%2Bg%2BOyB8LZ%2FYSCX%2BGOiSHKhO9dMYMmrR5LoToDLiE6HpO2FqfQL5CSaABJXrhpuwxgIAyijnE3wo4%2BcSQy8WGSxgRjTBLKwAM95S1Zr3%2Brx58XpURrErzQPcYBmo7rJi57OogrD7wLi7SIPi68xkoFVIo63LeDb5W6J8feDODUQpjLPlB3UWh1PFDT33ogtpAiN6avrmk576NmqFJPrMeQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6qftqahZQ This is the type I'm talking about, but non working I am only willing to pay 1/10th that to experiment with.

Modern diodes would have no problem with the100 amps the alternator could produce,but are designed to be cooled by the alternators fan drawing air over them. On mine, I'm looking into making an add on rear cover that can support and isolate JB diode sets on the alternator itself while ducting the air drawn in by the alternators cooling fan. There is also a version of this alternator that was made for military, 24 volt that I believe has internal diodes. I suspect that the rear housing could be swapped but haven't found one cheap enough to look further into it. Mine and I assume the 12 volt one, use a bar wound stator, like a starter motor, unlike modern wire wound units.

I'm not seeing anything that looks different than a L/N Alternator of that era.

Really you do, if you want to take advantage of that tires weight capacity. You might get it on and seated, but the rim is only rated for 7K. A 9" rim can carry more, IIRC 9K. Also 9" is the design width rim for that size.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/302659882437 https://www.ebay.com/itm/304539655469 https://www.ebay.com/itm/251125786912?_skw=delco+815839&itmmeta=01JM3MSABV5FNM4MK0B561E7FK&hash=item3a78436920:g:DtgAAMXQpwFRaj5G&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ea0AmMd%2Fh1BLKfNDHCs%2BBs124as4XOlwg8ROG7zg5%2FznNTa%2BZIVfOGIOQHD9fbfVJFqX4GqPWL%2Bi6xoh2VIOkw4OuUj25qOGULSV5Wy9fXnCBEf6x4zrnmj2uaaHMHGFdV89E8oCx4H9EFAjLdSnuQLRwuSnor64eyfEPg3c4EsopmWtRtEkD4fhkx3CLq3I90%2BqOVTe0tqCK5OzhCZMUee0dWWnlF82AAMTH6cF5rEku4NOIpk7rz12UvCns44Cg%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4Km5fSgZQ

I've bought my stuff off ebay, I have part numbers for mine, but no way to look up all Delco numbers. That said, I am almost certain that the armature, field windings,and bushes would be the same.

Both field windings come together at the stud, often if over cranked and the windings overheat the solder can melt and you only have 1/2 the windings working.

SAE #1 starter nose.

Looks like the ones on my 269's. everything should be available for that starter. They do require lube on the rear bushing. I can also point you to a modern 12 volt if that is the way you are headed.

Is it a direct drive delco or a gear reduction delco? Parts for the direct drives are easy to find, even N.O.S. but also re-pop. Gear reduction has the motor body offset from the drive section. Most direct drives can be easily rebuilt. Gear reduction can also be rebuilt if the armature and commutator are repairable. I have bought new armatures for my direct drive, but am unable to find any for my gear reduction unit.

If you don't care about "period correct" than a JB series alternator will bolt in place. I have the same unit but in 6 volt. The "extra" wire is the field connection. On my picture, the brushes have been removed, so the terminals are not visible.

https://www.prestolite-eu.com/Category/C0011111CA you could tuck one of these somewhere on the truck and leave the original for "show". Ahh, see "discontinued" but there may be others.

how many heavy wires come off the alternator? does it look like this one? ignore the messy bench.

If you have a rectifier like in the picture, they are the weak point in the system and can be bad for your health if they "pop", and also can be a shorting hazard. The alternator is self is very robust. A lot depends on how "period correct" you want to keep it. On mine you can see the two jumper bands on the bridge and the positive and Negative output wires at either end, as well as the 3 A/C input phases to the rectifier. Because they are external and exposed, there is a full current relay in the regulator that only connects the rest of the truck (and battery voltage) to the rectifier when the ign is on. There are modern replacement external rectifier assemblies to replace these in function (fan cooled external "boxes") or you could rig up an insulated set of diodes from a JB series on the rear of the alternator, but you must have the mount also duct the cooling air for the alternator over the cooling fins on the JB diode packs. unless "period correct" is paramount, I would use modern components for the rectifiers.

No, the square finned thing is the old selinium (SP?) rectifier. Old L/N alternators of that period had the rectifiers external from the alternator, and they were quite large. I have a similar unit that is 100 amps @ 6 (7) volt. The good news is the rectifier should be isolated from ground and can be used on either ground. Unlike modern alternators, the regulator looks like a generator regulator and, like such, disconnects the rectifier from the battery when not charging.

I'll try and state this simply: the turn signal switch has two inputs and two outputs PER SIDE! the inputs are the turnsignal flasher and the brake light switch. in the neutral position both rear lights are connected to the input from the brake light switch and nothing is connected to the output that goes to the front turn signals. the input from the flasher is not connected to anything. when you move the switch for left turn, the left rear output is disconnected from the right and brake light feed and connected to the front turn signal wire and fed from the flasher input. when you move the switch to the right, the right rear is disconnected from the brake feed and connected to the front and the flasher. In this way you always have a brake while indicating for a turn. The wires to the front turn light also feed the trailer turn. the brake light switch in addition to feeding the turn signal switch also feeds a separate wire for the trailer brake lights, which are separate from the trailer turn. In this way the truck can have two lamps at the rear that have both brake and turn function and yet the truck can feed a trailer with 4 lights, two for brake and one each for left and right turn. As JC says either someone messed up the wiring or the switch is defective.

One side pushes the limit of their authority, the other side counter with law suits. It is what happened with Biden trying to forgive student loans and what Trump is trying to do with E/O's Project 2025 was going to push the limits of the boundaries, and the other side prepared for that.

Yeah, and how long was "project 2025" in the works also? Both sides are play from the same playbook.

There are a lot of good electronic ign components from which to make a good system. I personally, don't like electronics "under the cap" in a HV environment. So far, my stuff that came with point remain so, they don't get driven enough to justify the change. I like the Ford or Chry pick-up better than GM's. Once the signal is outside the distributor, any ign box is fine.

Counter rotation counter acts "prop walk" where the back end of the boat will walk sideways when power is applied. With a single prop not much you can do, but with twin, each counters the other, like a twin countershaft tranmission.

I think the cab is widened out so you get enough sleeper birth width, no point having a 5' birth and a 5'11" driver.

And 13.2 "float voltage".

yes, or 2.2 volt per cell when fully charged.

That is a late/Euro spec. I have an '84 5 spd 16v turbo, and before someone say they didn't have the 16v in 84, yeah I know previous owner swapped it in. Scoots fast enough for me.