Geoff Weeks

Well it depends, The smallest ones were "legal" highway sized Kinda like some KW's they could be bigger and wider. I hauled a KW that was 11' wide. Mine is 8' wide.

One more

You shamed me into crawling back there.

It was hard to find, on the north side of the RR tracks, you had to snake through a neighborhood, and by an old elevator. Only reason I knew about is a guy on a train crew, took pictures and did a little research. One time when I was passing through I dropped my trailer and went bobtailing around trying to find it. All I had to go on were the photo's. There were old stock trailers, a Cabover Mack (in sad shape) and a bunch of odds and ends. I got there when I heard they were going to be cleared out. The train guy knew about it because he was going to have spot some gondola cars. This was back in the early 2000's.

I saw S&S had kits, then noticed the date on the .pdf (2016)! My 1989 had one from the factory, a little while later they came with either TRW or M-100 box, so I am guessing they went out of production around 1990. I was at the RH Sheppard factory sometime in the 90's, all I saw was wall to wall gear boxes.

It came from Dan Wither's fathers closed yard Closed in the early 60's I guess by what it held. The Withers own SW truck parts. From what little I know about mine, it was a oil field rig truck (both the model and the use) that was used in Ok and Ks oil patch. Someone cut the big winch off the back (not removed, but cut!!) most everything in the closed yard had the rear ends missing, mine included. Also the 3 spd aux with power-tower was gone. I've got a 4 spd aux for the truck. I never should have got it, too big a project for me. There was a beautiful Diamond T truck I should have bought Still had the leather corner "pads" on the butterfly hood. (rears missing) but looked like it could have been driven out except for the missing rears. The yard was closed in the early 60's and just sat until Pratt made them clear it, sadly I suspect most went into rail cars, and scrap.

Ah, yes I know where that is. There is or was another (Dart) at Russell, Ks. Mine came out of Pratt, KS.

Oh boy, My guess is if they no longer deal in them, that the parts supply has dried up. I think the place mine was sent to for rebuild was: https://www.pss1.com/ If they tell you the same, I would guess time has run out on them. I don't remember when I had mine done, it might have been 7 years ago or more. I just don't remember. Might contact RH Sheppard direct and see what they say. https://www.rhsheppard.com/products-services/products/remanufactured-parts/

Where did you see the one posted here?

I have a Dart a few years older that that one ( I think) Mine has one piece side windows and more "trapezoidal" windshields, but the telling thing is DART is in script on the radiator. Mine is a "project" that never got started, and will never get done (by me). When I get the barn cleared to the back where it sits (inside) I'll get some pictures and post them (don't hold your breath).

Your's had the two set screws? The one in the weeds I posted does also (you'll notice the arm is still on that one!) The one the cabover took had the big Allen head bolt in the center. I had a hardend 3/4" drive socket to get it out. Look for punch marks (or make them) to be sure to get it back on in the same orientation, although some will only fit in one place. I used a big bearing splitter behind the arm and a puller to pull it off as I didn't have a gear puller of the correct size. I think getting the set screws to come out after all these years would be the worse part of the job.

It was the last time I needed them. They were in use at least through the end of the 80's. It is the two digit boxes that parts are no longer available. If in doubt call Straight Line and ask if they will have a problem.

The British and Austrian buses we got didn't have driers and use the discharge line unloader, so will not work with many (almost all) North American driers. With you guys getting so many Pommy and Europiean stuff, that may play into why driers are not as common for you. The AD-4's I put on my stuff worked real well, Nothing out the wet tank, nothing out the trailer tanks. If I saw even a little moisture in the wet tank, I knew something was up. I had two trucks with AD-9's and they did ok, but when I saw moisture I knew there was a problem. Problem turned out to be the threads holding the element in the drier. That is when the AD-9's got swapped for AD-4's. I could pick-up core AD-4's for about $20, kit em and be good to go. I never did yearly services, I just kept watch on the wet tank, and when it started to show moisture, it was time for some action. I had air start, so moved a fair bit of air though the driers over the years. On the other hand, my trucks air systems were kept tight, so running down the road, there was little air put through the drier.

Forgot to check the carrier bearing temp, didn't want to crawl back under in the wet. I'll check next time it is out.

Ran to Omaha, and picked up the shaft. Rain stopped enough for a while for me to put it in. Took it 12 miles and back to put 20 gal of gas in the new tank. I think we have a winner. I can run up to gov speed in O/D and while not silky smooth it isn't trying to tear itself apart. 55-60 is good enough. Speedo doesn't work correctly at present but I was keeping up with traffic, Tach wasn't at gov speed, so likely 55 -58 without problems. Old and new shaft. Old has the old diff and carrier bearing yokes on the ends, so that is why it looks floppy. New shaft is 3 1/3" old is 2 1/2". The bigger shaft looks none to big on a truck of this size.

Wow, sorry to hear that Jim. Hope you have a speedy recovery. I'm finding age makes a fool of my mind. Mind tells me I'm still 26, body says nope, not really! Glad to hear your back, may be time to sit inside for a while and spend some time on the boards, and out of the shop.

Called this Am, the new shaft is finely ready for pick-up this afternoon. I will get it tomorrow and report back on how it works out. They said they had a delay in getting the slip-spline or slip yoke ( I don't remember which) and that is why it took so long. Not a problem, as I don't drive the '41 often.

I prefer the AD-4 but admit is is harder to service. Also it requires an external turbo cut off if the compressor inlet is hooked to turbo'd intake manifold. Can't field replace the heater element, but not ever found one that was failed. AD-2 still has a place, it will fit where most will not, and you can easily add as much purge volume as you want, something you can not with most driers. I have had at least 2 AD-9 bases where the cartridge thread in the base stripped out, making the base junk. With two air-start trucks, I really wanted to be sure there was no moisture in the system. I tried one of the "spin-on filter" driers, (only one) and found them lacking, esp when they need external purge volume. In my book the AD-9 is a easier to service (heater, purge valve) but less durable version of the AD-4.

I am new here, but noticed a few air system questions of late. Some of this will be "old hat" but even some oldtimers might pick up a tip. Start the truck, and let it build air until the air gov shuts off the flow and the air drier purges. Shut off the truck and look at the two pressure gauges, make a note of their readings. Go around the truck and listen for air leaks. You shouldn't hear any. Trucks built since -121 all have at least three air tanks. Wet, Primary (or tank 1) and secondary or tank 2. Each should have a drain valve. The wet tank is the 1st tank after the drier or compressor if no drier is used. (Some driers have little purge tanks, attached to them, I am not referring to theses). Go to the wet tank and open the drain, it should be dry or almost dry. Allow it to drain fully of air. Go look at the dash gauges and they should remain aprox where they were. If a tank gauge or both fall, you have a defective check valve and no safety for your brakes, one hose bust and you loose 1/2 or everything. Automatic fail. I should note that some air driers (Like the Rockwell/Meritor spin on) use a little air from one of the trucks tanks to purge, you'll see a small decrease in one tank, but it should not fall below cut in pressure. Next go to one of the two other tanks, open the drain, it should be totally dry air escaping. Let 1/2 the pressure escape, then close the tap and go look at the gauges, one will be low (say 50 psi) and the other MUST remain aprox where it was. Next go to the remaining tank and open the drain, again it should be dry air. Let it drain all the way, again check gauges, one should show some pressure (say 50 psi) and the other 0, If both show 0 you have a leaky check valve, again Automatic fail Re start engine and note low air light, buzzer or wig-wag (Anybody remember those?) When the light and buzzer shut off go to the air drier and put a hand near (but not against) the outlet of a purge. Allow the truck to build until the drier purges and note the time. You should get an initial burst of air followed by a much slower release of air for about a minute (exact amount of time is not important, just that it is not a single quick high pressure burst). After the low pressure air escapes no air should come out. Keep watching you watch and time how long it takes until the system purges again, 10 min minimum! If it purges before that time, you have work to do. Less than 5 min and you have a serious leak. If you get one quick, high pressure burst, then nothing, you have a drier problem. You will likely also notice moisture in the tanks, I don't know how many times I have heard " My system is great, it pumps up to 125 (or whatever) and never moves" Ah, no, that mean you have a problem, likely a leak in the "wet side" that keep the compressor cycling before the primary and secondary res have "used" any air. Gauges should rise to shut off pressure, then fall to "cut-in" pressure (useally 20-25 psi below cut-out) then rise again. If yours are staying at cut out and never failing in between purge cycles, The air is leaking from before their check valves. Wet tank, gov, compressor, fan clutch, drier and piping between all these are suspect. I have stated in another post, running down the highway (no brake applications) 10 min between cycles in the MINIMUM I would accept. I had one semi combination that would go 45 minutes! Most DOT cop's haven't got a clue what they are doing when the do a level 1 air check, and god help you if you find one that does and has a chip on his shoulder! If you can pass the above tests, and a normal pre-trip you should be ok with the exception of the TP which hasn't been checked in the above. This was posted by another member and has a good diagram of the air system basics. https://www.doverbrakeinc.com/downloads/catelogs/BENDIX AD-9 AIR DRYER.pdf

Also confusing thing is there are two people relating air problems on two different trucks. Loss of boost through the drier is the turbo cut off mentioned, loss of air when the turbo isn't producing boost is another problem all together.

Ok, if you have large amounts of air coming out at idle that continues longer than normal, the check valve is accessible on the bottom of the AD-9. Remove the tube that enters the drier from the bottom, then remove the large brass nut and the check valve will come out with it. I would check the drier cartage, remove the ring of bolts and check to see the cartage is still firmly screwed into the base. To be fair, we are all guessing without more description of what is happening when. Based on just the description of venting too much air, I can come up with quite a list of things it could be

I'll try and find my pictures of Barnhart's Pacific and Golhoffers that I moved around the country. They also have (Had) a Ward 8X8 which was fun to watch. I never got to hang around and watch a move, however. My tractor was punching above its weight class with some of the loads I pulled. I preferred "Baby O/D" 120K max. Ironicly my Marmon that I never used to haul heavy, is the tractor most suited for it.

I got escorted through Memphis one morning by 6 motorcycle cops. Two in front, one on each side and two behind. Two in front blocked off intersections, as we blasted through at 65-70, two from each side moved out front, two behind came along side and the two that were blocking the intersection took up the rear. We were headed to the Williams refinery on the SW "corner" of the city. They met me 10 miles north the city limits, and only asked one question "how fast can that thing go?" I told them 65 figuring they wanted to know if I could do highway speeds, nope, 65 is what we did, city streets, highway, it didn't matter. Later they told me their thinking. "The faster we get you through town, the faster traffic will get back to normal"! It was hysterical listening to the chatter on the CB. "Oh boy is he in trouble" "Wonder what he did?" When we pulled onto I-440, they put four bikes across all four lanes (why? I don't know) and shut the whole thing down until I got rolling. They told me to "follow the lead bikes and do what they do, we'll take care of the rest"! Whole trip took about 30 min.

I wasn't always that heavy, that was in the day before small digital cameras, so I don't have many pictures from back then. Also it was just a days work for me, now I wish I had documented all the loads I moved. There used to be a site on the net where a Swiss trucker's friends posted all his loads after he died. He had pictures of loads going all over, the middle east, North Africa and even one trip to Pakistan via the Kiber Pass, all in the K100 KW with Detroit! Changing cyl pack in the desert! I used to spend hours looking through them, but I don't think they are still on the .net. I have changed computers many times since then and don't have the address stored anywhere😮‍💨

If you are blowing boost out of the drier, that is one problem, it will show with the turbo spooled. If however it will blow a lot out of the drier at idle, then it is the check valve between the drier and wet tank. System builds until purge, then the wet tank blows back through the drier. Causes rapid cycling. There should be a check in the outlet of the drier. Without knowing how and when it is blowing out the drier, and type of drier I can't help more. To tell the truth, I am not up on any driers newer than the AD-9. Most driers have a large discharge of air when the valve opens and then a diminishing amount as the purge volume is discharged, picking up the moisture trapped in the drier on its way out. AD-4 and AD-9's had a rubber "check valve" on the top of the element that allowed free flow in the forward direction. There is a much smaller hole in the top that the reverse air has to pass though, so purge is slower. Often these checks will break off and dump the entire purge air all at once. AD-9's were prone to the threaded base wearing and the element, loosening and flopping around inside (doing no good at all)