Geoff Weeks

Not much to hurt you taking one apart, no real stiff springs ready to jump out at you. That is/was a real common model, The name escapes me at present. X3500? Anyway, not saying you can't hurt yourself if you really tried, but the most likely way would be dropping it on your foot! Remove the bolts and pins, there are two big pins that pass though the casting. Pay attention to how it comes apart and put it back together the same way. Getting the bolts to come out is the hardest part of the job.

Reading back through this thread, I see a couple questions that were never answered. The Engine family that is the medium K's (BLD) at one point COULD be fitted with a Mag. I have seen it mentioned in literature but never in person. The early (wet liner) version of the engine had either a gear driven generator and distributor driven off the back of the generator, on the left side of the engine or a mag. This was a common practice in the 20's. The mechanical fuel pump that is on the left side in the K's was on the right side on the early engines with a pushrod that ran across the block to the cam on the other side. If you pull the generator mount off a BLD there is a casting hole in the block behind it in the shape of a fuel pump mount, but not machined out. Wetliner engine are easy to spot due to the lack of core plugs in the side of the block, as core sand could be shaken out through the bore openings. (Like most wet lined engines) This design lead to a problem when gear drive generator/distributors were abandon in the later 30's. Where to you put a distributor on an engine that didn't have a directly driven distributor designed in from the get go? The answer is one of the distinct visual ques of the engine family, namely a distributor mounted high over the valve cover. When the engine was designed, it had the oil pump drive off the inside of the cam, which left no room to mount a distributor directly on the oil pump drive. Most engines drive the oilpimp from the outside of the cam, allowing for enough room to mount a distributor. They extended the drive all the way up to the top of the valvecover, and mounted the distributor there. This lead to problems later in the 50's when installed in cabover trucks. But that is a story for another day. The same basic engine lasted until the late 60's early 70's. It wasn't, however exported to the land down under which used a AG version of the the small 6 in their trucks of the size that used the BLD/BD up here. The HiTorque rear brakes are another issue. They have a special cup on the small piston with a protrusion that sits in a recess in the piston. As far as I know these cups are not available anywhere unless someone stumbles on NOS. To rebuild you must fill the recess with epoxy (to make a flat surface) and use a common available cup. Not sure what the thinking was on the recess, but seams to function fine without them. Like all IHC designed 6's it used a gear driven cam, a remote (from the oil pump) relief valve that can be a problem if someone tries to replace the oil filter adapter or valve adapter if the engine has no filter, with one from a later engine. Early engine had a bypass oil filter and the later (50's and up) re design had a full flow filter, but they are not interchangeable. More info than most will be interested in I bet.

As I stated before, most smaller starters use the same armature for 6 and 12, only the field coils change. What is different between your VW and this starter, is the old Delco uses an inertia drive, which can hit a little harder on the higher voltage. There is a helix on the drive and the weight of the drive itself tends to resist the motors "spin" which moves the drive into the ring gear. There is no solenoid operated shift fork like many starters used today. Having said all that, it is unlikely cause a problem. If it were to have one, it is likely to be when the engine fires but doesn't continue to run, and the starter is still energize by the operator. This can cause damage to the drive itself,when the drive re-engauges with the ringgear but the motor will be OK.in most cases.

Good thing you caught it, a hardened washer or bolt head, could do a lot of damage. I had a thrust washer pass through a ring gear and pinion. took most of a tooth off the pinion. At least there was enough left to drive home.

You might have to back off the bearing adjusting nut on the side you are working on, esp when you go to put the cap back on. If you haven't disturbed the other side, the backlash should not be effected. If you mark the adjuster nut on the side you are working on, you can back it off and when the cap is back on, tighten back to where it was. If that isn't possible or you already disturbed the bearing nut, on re assembly tighten until 0 play, rotate the ring gear through a few revolutions to seat the bearings, and tighten on more "tooth" on the nut, and recheck the pre load. You want an little (0 preload isn't good) but not much, just a little resistance felt at the ring gear. I am curious as to what cause the bolt to let go. That is not a problem I normally find. I don't know if they have change MFG assembly or if that diff has had some hands in it before. Single speed diff's I worked on all had the ring gear riveted to the diff when they came from the factory. If it was replaced, the rivets would be drilled and bolts used for the new gear. 2 Spd diffs bolted together. Replacement ring gears for single speed had a bolt kit, but from the factory rivets. Bolts for the case 1/2's normally got locktite, older models had drilled heads and safety wire. Same for the bearing cap bolts.

Can you lay your hands on some drill pipe (oil well thick wall) that will fit over one or both forks all the way? Then you don't have to get the skid steer as close. Worse case, un bolt the axle from the suspension, take the tires off, set the whole axle on the ground, lock the powerdivider and plug off air lines and drive the truck from over the axle. With the whole beast out it is easy to work and re-install center section. I did one that way, and it isn't as bad as it 1st looks, just a lot of bolts, and sometimes that beats fighting in a position where you can't turn or move.

To be clear, I think he is working on the modern version of the Rockwell/Meritor SSHD 46K rear that was the mainstay of the dump truck market for years. They are front loaders. Mack was the only one to stick with top loaders long after others had gone to front loading. There are advantages to each design, not making a judgement call.

That is a relative statement, compared to engine, no, compared to lifting it off my leg, yes! Next question is: What and how is the truck used? Can you afford to "down the truck" while doing it yourself or is it your source of income? If the latter, you might be money ahead in "biting the bullet" and paying to have it done. If I had no other way to get to it, and it had to come out the bottom, I would go to a scrap yard and ask for the metal plate they put over trenches in the road (1" or thicker" steel plates to lay down, drive the truck on and remove with a floor jack. Next question, Ok, you got it out, now what? If you need to repair or replace it is going to have to come out from the "hole" you are working in between the axles. Little gained by pulling it forward for a look, then finding you can't remove it for repair and have to button back up and re fill to take to someone. Look at the whole picture and decide what make the most economic sense. I did all my own, but had the equipment to do so, and more than one truck so could down one and work on it while still making a living. Because he listed it as a Meritor axle, and in the 2000's I am sure it is a front loader. Meritor hasn't made top loaders for decades as far as I know, At least I have come across any that weren't old. (when they were called Rockwell, Timken or Detroit axle)

Look around the carrier for an un used bolt holes. I know my IHC (Spicers) had two threaded holes you can put "jack bolts" into, I think my Rockwells did also. At the shop we used a floor jack with an adapter to remove. When doing them myself I did from above with a winch line of my winch truck. We had one carrier at the bus company that was stuck but good. My co worker took out a bolt and threaded the bolt hole with a bottoming tap the next thread size up. Then he put a ball bearing in the bolt hole and a bolt (the ball bearing prevent mashing the threads in the housing and precludes the need for the threads in the carrier from going all the way to the bottom) then threaded a bolt in. Just had to break the seal and it worked. I am sure on all the new stuff they have left out the jack bot holes, like everything else that is helpful, they cut it to the minimum they can get away with. I did one trans/ clutch in the"dirt" with a engine crane and plywood. I wouldn't recommend if if anything else is available to you. I layed out two sheets of 3/4" plywood (Have you priced out plywood lately) and the steel casters still indented into the plywood making it hard to roll/move. If I had to do it again without the winch truck. I would try and find a stout tree limb I could park the truck under and use a chain falls or come-a-long on a chain wrapped around the limb. A long single line has enough "give" that you can easily move the weight at the end a foot or more to get the carrier out and back in. whoop's missed that is was a "tipper" so tree limb will not work. Can you attach a chain to the underside of the body and used a come a long and truck hyd to lift it out the top? (again on a single line).

Wow, I don't think so! https://www.ebay.com/itm/175576184243?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=175576184243&targetid=1645685074008&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9018177&poi=&campaignid=20133407470&mkgroupid=147476396765&rlsatarget=pla-1645685074008&abcId=9312979&merchantid=426121152&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3LuLw97k_wIVT97jBx389wD2EAQYASABEgI71PD_BwE

Waterpumps are not plentiful, but any one for the engine family right up to the last 308 in the sixties should bolt on. I have rebuilt with common industrial waterpump "face seals". The impeller can be a bit fragile, so be careful if you disassemble. You'll need a puller to get the pulley off the shaft, they seam to be on tight! I haven't seen a "rebuilt" one for sale in a long time.

With the electronic "converters" 12 volt isn't the problem it was. Often I saw burned up gauges and wiper motors back in the day. Now there are good ways to protect and feed 6 volts to these things. The heater (if it had the old 'barn door" heater) had a special motor that could be run both directions to direct the warmest air to the cabin or the defroster. People have not found a 12 volt replacement. I would not give the starter motor a bit of thought, running on 12 volt, it should do just fine as long as you want. 12 volt generators abound with the wide pulley. I have had a 17SI on my K with a wide pulley (producing 6 volts) Alternators often run smaller pulleys to turn faster, producing power at a slower engine speed. Unfortunately the wide belt can be a problem here. They can't transmit as much power as a modern V belt. It is easy to overpower the wide belt with a modern (high output) alternator. I think anything over 60 amps will be a problem, you may even have problems at 60. I have picked up several old generators, and they all worked fine all these years later. One of my K's has a rare 50 amp 6 volt generator. Also a friend gave me a 100 amp 6 volt Leece Neville alternator from the 40's or early 50's. I have 3 269's with 5 spd transmissions, two in trucks and one spare. Parts that are hard to find for these trucks are wiper motors (in good condition) Main and rod bearings, Gasket kits Liners (these engines are dry lined) Inner seals for the rear axle bearing nuts Felt seals for the front wheel bearing. The engine family started in the late 20's or early 30's as wet lined (FAx series) and grew to the dry lined (BLD) and then to parent bore (BD 282 and 308) lasted until the late 60's although they weren't common after the SV line of V8 engines out in the late 50's, most trucks got the V8 unless the customer ordered the 6.

May some help for your gauges. Haven't used him yet myself but some people have and are happy with results.

I know this is a older thread, but having two of the same model truck, I thought I would comment. The good reason for staying 6 volt is the wipers and gauges. Both are pain to change. Today you can get "solid state" voltage converters so that is less of a problem. A picture of exactly what is wrong with the present starter would be helpful. I have built three 737z starters and finding parts was never a problem. 12 volt through the 6 volt will not be a problem, in most cases a smaller 6 volt and 12 volt starters use the same armature, only field coils differ. Larger starters 12 and 24 volt armatures are the same, again with differ. Hand cranking: I have a 525 CID that I have hand cranked, but wouldn't want to do it often! Also cranked a 9 cyl P&W radial with an inertia starter, you best get it to run on one try, or your done and bring in a fresh body for the 2nd try! I will be fitting an air compressor for one of my 269's. They were an option, you could get a K-7 with full air brakes. Not common, however. If you show me the problem with the starter you have I may be able to walk you through repairing. I have H-4 six volt headlights, on my K's and feel every bit as good as 12 volt versions (55/60 watt).

IDK, the 1940's roads were hard top in many places, 45-50-55 were not unreasonable. The truck in question seams to have been pressed into military service, it has the "military" steering wheel and there is a patch for a three point antenna mount. There is a hole in the dash that may or may not have been for a "spy in the cab tachograph". Interestingly the GVW is 16500, which is low for this model My other is 21500. It may have been spec'd for a set job, but at that time it just may be what was on hand at the time.

I've got the factory parts manual, so if you need numbers for something, ask. We might want to take this to some other place, because the thread topic is more about U joints in general. I'm new here so not sure where it should be.

There are aftermarket brush band covers, if that is where you hole is,

If you need a complete starter it is Delco number 737Z

Those are 6.5 or 7 (it is the inside width between the rim flanges" I can tell exactly.. Wow you got the "optional cover!" every one I see it is missing. Re Starter, is yours missing? they are easy to rebuild and aftermarket part (armature etc) are not expensive. They have a oil cup on the brush end of the commutator that needs to be lubed often as there is no brass bushing in that end ( steel shaft on cast cover). Mine start un assisted at 0 deg F on six volt, so I am keeping them at that voltage. That way the gauges and wipers will not be effected nor need special adaptation. I have a crank that fits the engine but was not for the truck and needs to be longer to use. Both mine have 2 spd rears and 5 O/D trans, but they could have 4 spd and single rears, or any combo.

They look wider than mine, do you have any clearance problems? I once tried some wider rims and the inside rear was close to the springs, and the front to the tie rod end. Nice you have the hubcaps. they often go missing. The battery box cover: I don't think the trucks ever came with them, I have yet to see a truck with one on it. I had mine made.

what is the rim width? I am wondering how well they would fit on the narrow (er) rim. 9.00's normally go on a 6.5 or 7" rim. As I said my rims are stamped with the max tire size My truck with disk wheels has 6.5" 6 bolt wheels, the spoke are only 6", which is why they are stamped with the 8.25 tire size.

Mine are still in their work clothes. what size rims do you have on yours? I've got 6.5 (edit 6 inch on the 8.25, 6.5 with 900's) with 8.25x 20 rubber and they are stamped max tire size 8.25. The one with 9.00 had disk wheels.

That is a valid point, they did put carrier bearings (both trucks have them) . They may have done "seat of the pants" engineering, however. If it didn't vibrate too bad it was good to go, now we know how and when the harmonics will kick in. I am itching to see how it runs out when the new shaft get here.

My guess is they didn't have a clue. The reason being that the truck I'm working on with the small tires I believe it came with (7.50x 20) would put driveshaft speeds at or near critical at around 50-55. With 8.25x 20 tires the max speed is around 60 MPH with the engine at 3000 rpm, max recommended speed. Even if you figure 45 MPH as max back in the day, it would be in dangerous territory, with the smaller rubber. My other K-7 sits on 9.00x 20's and that would put the max speed near 70, something it cannot reach. empty weight is 10,500 lbs 269 CID isn't going to move it that fast.That one I can see why it wasn't a concern 3000 rpm x O/D ratio of .823 puts the driveshaft at around 3650 rpm. Because the spec's for tire size are so far removed from driveshaft spec's I don't think they would have tied them in some way ("your can't order that wheelbase, with that tires size") I think they just were not well versed on the problems associated with shafting at that point. I could be wrong, but that is my take on it.

My Marmon with 2spd rears sets up a vibration up against the gov in low range top gear, I haven't plugged in the numbers but I suspect that puts the shaft into or near critical. It has a Eaton O/D 15 speed, I never run it there, when I was climbing a hill and nearing where it vibrated, I would upshift the rears and down the main and carry on, so shaft speed is decreased. If I get bored I'll have to measure and plug in the numbers, but I bet that is what it is, feels like it anyway. Only shows in top gear, so any engine speed in lower gears doesn't vibrate, has to be driveshaft speed related. I never ran the truck up against the gov in high range on the rear axles.