Geoff Weeks

I'll have to take your word on that because I can't see the whole thing. Your picture only shows a line on the right side of the bumper, so I have no idea what they are trying to do, if there is only one connection and it is a coolant line. It wouldn't act as an overflow, as there is no way to draw it back in. Can't tell what you are refering to on "the right side of the engine. Might be a old style oil cooler or even a coolant filter that was replaced with spin-on one next to it.

Also I'm betting that the front bumper is being used as an air tank, to increase the capacity for the air assist steering, and not anything to do with the radiator. One the hose is too small to flow any amount of coolant, and 2, I only see one hose.

Look and see if the tag on the fuel pump is there, Might give some clues as to the engine.

yep, they are all cross drilling to the main bearing saddles. I am surprised at how well the original gauges do esp oil pressure. I have a mechanical and electric both on mine and the electrical reacts quicker than the mechanical.

In reality, the pressure will be what it will be. Without available replacements, no point grinding the crank for non existent bearings. I use the old 10 psi per 1000rpm rule! Plenty of oil pump kits, so I would try that if the pressure isn't up to snuff. Std bearings show up every once and a great while, undersize even less so.

BLD 269 oil pressure spec's Min 10-15 psi @ 300-350 rpm, Max 40-45 psi @ 1500-1800 RPM

Main bearings are hard to find, only NOS. Your pressure sound good to me, I don't remember seeing a pressure listed in the manual. Binderbooks used to sell reprints of the manual, but I don't think they are still around?

The brakes on the K-7's will really stop the truck well even when loaded. I had 5 ton on mine (grossing over 18K) and no problem stopping. The oil filter base contains the pressure relief for the system and must be retained. Installing a 2nd bypass filter, is easy enough but little is gained by doing so. To install a full flow the oil has to be re-routed from the pump to the filter base and back to the main oil rifle. Doing so places the oil filter ahead of the relief and that could cause problems if the filter plugged, or the lines got damaged. The pump is plumbed directly to the main oil rifle and the current filter and relief is T'd off of that. Given the above, and the high sump capacity, low miles that my trucks see, I decided it wasn't worth the trouble and modifications to the block to install a full flow, and the bypass the truck came with is as good as any you can get spin-on. Just my 2 cents worth.

Getting back to the inside connection on your Delco, it is a copper bolt with a slit in it, the field connections come together and fit into the slit and then it is soldered in place. Most likely done in the old days with a big soldering iron, but you can use a jewelers pin point torch or if your careful, the smallest welding tip on your torch set. Solder gets broken out when people are messing with the cable connection to the stud. Replacement split bolts are available and I have repaired mine. Slow cranking= heat which is bad. Make sure both ends are clean and lubed. There is always the modern starters from the L/N book we talked about a year ago.

Penn DOT got their years wrong, There is a square nose Chevy pick-up and a Ford LTD with 5 MPH crash bumpers in there. I'd say 1973 at the earliest.

If you look at the White, the steer tires stick out further than the doors on the conventional, on the cabover the doors are out further than the wheel. I drove the later Volvo-Whites. Some narrowing but not much. Much more room inside when compared to a Pete or R model cab

Ok, you don't know how many people I have run into, that say "its a 8 bolt, so will bolt right on" not realizing that every PTO is more or less custom to the application. Yeah, most Eaton roadranger PTO's will interchange (speed may change some). If your guy is a PTO specialist, than he will know what is needed.

You do realize that all 6 bolt and all 8 bolt PTO's are not the same? the input gear on the PTO must match the PTO gear in the transmission and there are 100's of different gears. I highly doubt the Mack and Eaton share the same pitch gear. Get with a PTO shop and see if it is cheaper to re-gear yours or start new. It is highly unlikely that both transmission PTO gears turn at the same speed compared to engine speed. If your present one is driven off the rear box on the Mack, it will not be anywhere near correct for the front countershaft speed.

buyer may have paid more, but the seller didn't get it, so is a moot point. If the truck in question was in THAT auction, it might bring more than the KW, but sold in a private sale, alone I don't think you'll see $15k. Most assuredly not $25k-$30k. The KW was the closest in spec's and year to the truck in question, had a generator and living 1/4's which may or may not be something of value to the buyer.

no chance of me bidding, just the one vehicle in the lot that raised my interest, that is all

My pick would have been the 6-71 powered motor coach.

Another thing that gets lost when people see what auction results bring. That was at a specialty auction with enough vehicles and other stuff to bring in collectors. That is not the same as trying to sell a single vehicle. True, you can consign to an auction somewhere, but you have to bring it there, and hope that the rest of the stuff generates enough interest to bring in the "right" buyers. Otherwise it may bring far less than you expect. Many of those (all?) were not road registered so would have to be trucked to an auction if sold individually. Big enough collection to have an auction of its own, can make all the difference in price.

I think some see the quad headlights, small sleeper and twin sticks, and go all to pieces. I was surprised on what the LTL brought, but it was a nice truck in good condition, with all the modern powertrain.

closest analogous truck didn't break the $10g's, more than I thought but less than others thought. I guess we are all wrong. https://bids.aumannauctions.com/auctions/40500/lot/6124817-1966-kenworth-w925a

Yeah, well he had to do it in snow!

boy, did we get "off in the weeds" on this thread.

I just put my numbers into Spicer's driveshaft calculator and it spits out what I need to know. Critical and 1/2 true critical.

Got to be careful not to run driveshaft speeds into critical range when using a lot of OD in the front and high reduction in the back. Ran into that a while back with my K-7, had to redesign the driveshaft to keep it out of critical.

That is the factory correct way, PDL only in low range, locked out in high range. Since mine was a retrofit, I could do as I wanted. I get PDL in both ranges. Mine are electric over air, not full air, where the air lines go up the stick and then back down the the frame, back to the rears, That can be the cause of some slow shifts. Mine has full air pressure to an electric solenoid on the frame and electric on the stick that controls both the solenoid and the speedo correction.

They don't have to, In fact 3 spd rears, were one in low, one in high for intermediate speed. Just have to be careful when you lock the PDL that they are both on the same page. Mine are plumbed to shift together, both on the same air feed, so they self sync more or less. I love the set-up, but don't often split many gears, I use it more as another range shift. I start in low, run though 10th hole (15 speed) and then downshift the main and up shift the rear for the remaining gears. I tend not to run max speed in low as it drives the driveshaft into or close to critical speed, and there is nothing to be gained by doing so. 15 in deep reduction, rear in low and you almost don't need a clutch!