Geoff Weeks

If done well, there is no disadvantage to making automatic. Most Mfg did, some better than others. I never had a problem with either Cummins (AFC) or Cats method. Earlier methods by all mfg needed some work. I wouldn't want to have to monitor the boost at all times to have a good running engine. I can think of no advantage to not having the system take care of itself. All of them were adjustable if you knew how.

Not to up on that era Mack stuff, but I always liked the Tip-Turbine set-up. A better solution than Cummins low-flow cooling, for the same problem. How do you aftercool better than engine coolant can? How do you do it and fit the engine into current vehicles without re-designing the front end? Cat didn't try, Cummins tried to "super-cool" the coolant before it entered the engine, Mack decided to pull air from outside the hood, to pass through an air to air inside the hood.

Looks like a solenoid valve for an air fan clutch? no idea why that is there. There looks to be another port at the next intake runner as well. Has a 90 deg fitting that is cut off at the edge of the picture. Any of them would be a place for a boost gauge.

IDK, I had over 200K on mine in a Ford Exploder, pulled trailers no problem, but then again it was on the original clutch as well. Had to come out one time when a mouse nest was in the pressure plate/bell housing. Never dumped the oil in it either. (5 spd).

Picture of the box would help, but if it is like I am thinking, you can delete the cylinder and hose at the box (plug) and it will work. However they are most often used on heavy front axles so the tie rod only has to keep both wheel ends in sync and not transmit the force. When you cut back to just the steering box moving the wheels, the tie rod has to transmit all the force to the passenger side and you can end up bending the tie rod. You would also have less assist if the box is doing it all. I wouldn't recommend deleting the assist on the passenger side, and would only do so to move around the shop or for a hobby truck that isn't loaded. Some of the early P/S boxes were "low pressure" boxes and run much less pressure and therefore power, so may be that is why an assist cyl is needed. Early Sheppard boxes were low pressure boxes, and the assist hoses on the Sheppard box goes to the bottom (opposite the input shaft), and the other to the top-side of the bolt down cap on the input side if the box. Again, pictures and/or steering box model numbers would be of help.

Could be Vlad, I just haven't seen it done that way. I was thinking an assist cyl on the right and a power on the left so the tie rod doesn't take the full force.

Likely a heavy front axle, that looks like the passenger side from the photo.

Huck's aren't any better than bolts, Rivets are stronger than bolts, but not Huck's, Go ahead and replace with bolts. Both Huck's and bolt stretch under tension and "neck", a rivet expands when compressed (set) and fills the hole. Huck's a quicker in a mfg assembly line, and can't loosen, but aren't stronger.

Hoses on backwards? May have inlet and outlet checks to keep the oil from syphoning back to the pan, staving the turbo on start. Most mfg found a filter before the turbo did more harm than good, and you don't see them anymore.

Up until I retired, never had to run an E log, all my equipment was too old to need to. Except for a few trailers I pulled, no auto slacks, no ABS either. Running the west, often the shorter miles made up for the slightly less speed, anyway.

Yep, and they are bigger as well. Many ways to add a tach. there are those that can be driven off an AC tap on an alternator, and you can drill and tap the bellhousing for a mag pick-up. Anything with a shaft that turns with the engine can be used, if you can attach a cable or electronic drive to it. Electronic works best if the shaft spins at a speed other than 1/2 crankshaft or crankshaft speed, as they are easier to calibrate.

In the US I have met many truckers who will not venture off the interstate any further than absolutely required. I, on the other hand, only traveled on them when time and sense dictated it was necessary. If you travel in some states and only stick to the interstates, you'll drive a long way out of your way. I'm thinking of the western interior, like MT, WY etc. I often drove MT 200 from the eastern part to the west-central, 200 miles of nothing, and you would rarely see another vehicle. Very peaceful, but many I spoke to were afraid they would breakdown and get stuck. If your vehicle isn't good enough to drive 200 miles, why are you on the road with it at all? In good weather I would sometimes run Mt 500 between Milstone and Mosby, loaded, a good part of that is little more than 1 track wide, gravel or dirt. Not that long, may 40 miles total.

Manual gauge to confirm the reading, then a look at the pressure relief. No idea where it is on that system. Other hopefully will. I have seen more than once, where an oil change will stick the relief open. Got a bunch of theories why it happens but no proof of cause. Mostly it was on Big Cam Cummins and the pump and valve are external to the pan on those engines, so not too big a deal. If the oil pump/ relief is in the pan, then check your bearing clearance while it is down.

If it were me, I would run it a bit longer. No load, not above idle, but let it go for a full minute or more. There is lube on the bearings and crank, even if it is not pressurized, it isn't dry. It may take a bit to force the air out.

The fact that the wires move is an indication that there is power to the coil. Not proof of much more. Likely simple enough to take apart and clean, but not on the truck. Follow others advice on safety, remove the valve and take apart on the bench carefully so as not to loose any parts and to see how it goes together.

I have never heard of or seen a #40 brake chamber. #36 is the largest in common use, and even they are not common. Got a "hit" for type 50 rotochamber, but nothing for a 40.

Considering how popular they were in the Middle East and down under, they sure disappeared quickly. Weren't popular outside of the NYC/NJ area in the US, so not surprised they are hard to find here.

I haven't heard from Rob in a while either, He keeps fairly busy with fab and maintenance stuff. I sent him some stuff on JLG manlifts and an air compressor he was looking for, but it was a few year ago. Always seamed to have 3 irons in the fire at once, so not surprising not to hear from him for long stretches.

I 've to Mike's place a few times before he died. Very generous man and very knowledgeable on most any Mack. He had more than one place he stored vehicles. Other end of the state from me, but yes he had a lot stored outside. I think he was a few years younger than I, and I was sad to learn he was sick, and later passed.

I don't believe there is one correct fact in this article! The Big Horn: Why Dodge's First Semi-Truck Was Doomed To Fail Well may be one, Dodge did make the Big Horn, not its 1st semi though.

spokewheel.pdf 240 ft/lbs.

That is why my 1st suggestion was "Rare Parts" they are well versed in that kind of thing. That said, I don't think they are hard, a quick stroke with a file would let you know. Don't want them to fracture, which is more likely the harder you make something.

A tube type that hasn't been abused and hasn't sat full of water often come apart easy. Rubber lube (oh no that is not a set-up) is your friend. Liquid laundry detergent is a 2nd best, will make quick work of it.

Not always a "slam dunk" as some shops shy away from "critical automotive" parts like steering and brakes out of liability fears. That said I got internal brake caliper parts made for a Saab I was working on. I would have preferred having them made from "hard chrome" bar stock, but price and what the shop had on hand, were made of stainless. Cost of 12mm hard chrome bar stock alone cost more than the whole job! Calipers in question had the parking brake as part of them, and were decades out of production and NLA from rebuilders like Cardone etc. Best to provide with connecting parts and have them "make to fit" rather then hand drawn pictures. Even supplying the old pins I needed to have made, I had to take them back to cut threads deeper, as it was tighter class fit of the threads. Live and learn. The shop admonished me in the future to bring the mating parts! Most of those ball studs use a common taper and reamers are sold to that taper.

1st thing to check is to see if the steering arm on the old axle can be used on the new, not likely but worth a look. Next would be to see if there is a way to fit a newer drag link on. Not sure you can cut open a new tie rod end and get the profile ball you are looking for. Rare parts, could likely mfg one to your specs, but $$$$ I had a local machine shop make some parts for one of my vehicles for very reasonable price. Rather late now, but new tubeless tires on those demountable rims would cost a lot less, if money was a concern.