Geoff Weeks

I would think anything by 1965 would have spring brakes? The requirement came in in the very late 50's IIRC Edit: I am having trouble finding a statute that spells out exactly when "self applied" e brakes were required, so I may be wrong. I have always seen auto applied spring brakes on stuff newer than the 50's.

The newer Eaton's are like that. direct is one gear down-high. A overdrive front box with an underdrive splitter all plumbed for seamless progression (unlike the older underdrives). Gives 2 OD ratios, but not big jumps.

Make sure the oil cups at the starter have oil>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204384693030 I have no idea if 10 tooth is correct for your application or not. But there is a replacement.

With cable drives, the end has to protrude far enough to engage with the corresponding female end in the gear and tach. They also have to have ends of the correct size (this is where adaptors sometimes come in). Too short or too small and you might just get a little bounce. Pull the core (if possible) and stick into the tach and spin it to see if the tach moves, and that it fits the female in the tach. You are there, we are not, so you are going to have to make the assessment. If that looks good, attach to the engine and run it, make sure it is turning the cable.

It still isn't a "bail amount" issue, it is a release/don't release issue. Judges and statute issue. Some cases the judges hands are tied by how the laws are. Amount of bail is only supposed to make the defendant show up in court. No assessed bail and the person shows up, and all is fine, $10m and they don't, it wasn't enough!

The only legal reason for cash bail is to make sure the ACCUSED (but not convicted) show up to trial. It is illegal and immoral to punish someone on a accusation which may or may not be true. The judge at the arraignment can decide, if warranted, for no bail. That is where the decision on release or no release should be made, not on ones ability to pay. Amount of bail has no bearing on if they should be or should not be released.

Also make sure the starter is oiled at the oil cups, if it is dry, it will be slow and you'll have poor engagement

does the drive look like this: If so, make sure the drive spring is good and the shaft is clean. It is "thrown out" by inertia and a helix cut into the shaft. If the starter shaft is grimey and full of gunk, it can't slide fast enough to be in the ring gear before the starter shaft is spinning.

All back together, and running. Still have to replace the capacitor as the voltage is a little low (104 v at 50% load) @60.5 hz. Ran it for 6 hrs today to "break it in" and see if I could find any more problems. Other than the low voltage, none. 6 hrs and no oil loss, so that is good. Hot here in the 90's and the upper radiator tank was a steady 190 deg, so that is good also. 3 out of 4 lights work, One the screw in base came off the housing which caused the bulb to be smashed in transit. Long road, but glad to be at the end, or at least end in sight. Changed the L6-30r to L14-30r so I can spread 120 volt loads over both windings. the GFI outlet is only on one winding.

I believe he is in Wyoming, so same Law as you and I I would keep the rotochamber, for two reasons, one is clearance, rotochambers are smaller in dia than clamp type of the same area, there may be clearance reasons rotochambers were used. 2nd is rotochambers are better (but way more expensive) as the force applied stays more or less constant over the stroke. As long as the "can" is serviceable, replacing the diaphragm leaves you better off.

If the "can" is good, open it up and replace the diaphragm: https://www.anythingtruck.com/product/060-236528.html Otherwise I would suggest replacing both chambers with type 24 clamp type. I think you might have trouble on inspection with one of each. Technically it should be ok, same area, but might be frowned on, being mixed. I would keep the rotochamber if it is otherwise ok.

It doesn't happen sitting in the A/C and armchair!

I didn't forget the V8 but don't think it was ever put in trucks, correct me if I am wrong. The V6's were all I came across. My memory isn't what it used to be, may be it was the V-8 toilet bowl wasn't put in trucks (diesel). Otherwise, why would the 702 V-12 exist, if there was a larger V-8? By the time GMC's V-6's came out larger gas semi's were on the wain. GMC already had the 503 inline gasser. Keep in mind, that when gassers were big, we didn't have the Interstate system yet built. There were some sections and some Tpk's but a lot was old US routes that went through towns, and speed was slower. You weren't doing 70 Mph on US 6 or US 30.

You can check the run-out without removing, If it is in spec, your good to go, if not than you have to pull pins, align and ream the pins oversize. Nothing lost by NOT pulling it. Nothing gained by pulling it when it is in spec, other than a little easier to pull the input bearing. If you pull it, you need to check, if you don't and there aren't any symptoms or complaint that would make it suspect, easier to do on the engine side. Trans side you have pins and the bearing retainer, so more likely to be fine, unless you are swapping bell housing halves.

I know!

One shop owner wanted the bell pulled, not exactly sure why? If there was no evidence of leakage before I started, I only had one gasket/joint to worry about doing it my way, but he was the boss so did it his way when I was working for him. Doing my own or at a shop that didn't care, I did it my way.

It is only difficult if you have the bell housing on, the space to work just with the bearing retainer removed makes it difficult. I still do it that way over pulling the bellhousing 1/2 and loosing the oil out the countershaft bearings. I guess it is what you are used to doing. Remove the retainer bolts, insert a pair of bars in the bolt holes and work the retainer out of the bell, snap ring pliers and remove the snap ring on the shaft, then two small "ladies foot" pry bars to pop the bearing out, and another snap ring to remove the input. Put the old input aside, as they make the best clutch alignment/installation tool there is. Screw those plastic ones they sell.

Mowerman was referring to a White Mustang (Semi Tractor) you brought in the Ford.

I agree on the RTV, more likely to plug the drain, Paper gasket and if needed a little Indianhead or the like (Hi tack)

sorry Roadranger (Eaton)

OK, that is different than RR and the like, the input gear will not fit through the bearing opening on those if my memory is correct, but the input shaft is splined to the inside of the gear, you remove a snap ring and the input shaft slides out of the gear. Nose of the main shaft just rides in a bushing on the RR trans.

None of the old semi's with gas engines had displacement anywhere near the diesels of the day. Only Hall Scott made large displacement spark ign engines. Most gas tractors were 550 CID or less, but still pulled the same loads as there bigger diesel cousins. IHC and Ford had 530-550 CID V8's IHC and GM had inline 6's around 500 CID GM had a 702 V12 (two 351 V6's on one block) REO had 440 CID. At the time gas was king, 3-4 mpg was common, but diesels weren't much better until they were turbocharged, Cummins made a spark ign version of their inline 6 Diesel, but it was never used in vehicles. GM (Detroit) had the 6-71 (426 CID) and the 8V-71 (568 CID).

You have to remove the snap ring on the SHAFT, not the bearing, for it to come off the shaft. The shaft and bearing WILL NOT come out as one unit. On most transmissions, once the bearing is off, you remove another snap ring and the shaft comes out, leaving the input gear in the transmission, normally I put the trans in direct when I pull the input.

Are they different than other HD trans? I've done plenty the way I described, snug, but not press fit to the shaft. Common to change the bearing and input when doing a high mileage clutch. Both are done with the trans assembled. Play is no reason to change, Ball bearing in the flywheel and on the input of the trans, shaft just rides like that. What say you Jojo?