Geoff Weeks

Kinda looks like #12 in this. Load sensing brake valve? Not something I have seen.

It doesn't look like the line unloaders on the buses, but they didn't have a duel brake system either. It seams like something that splits the system in two and possibly unloads the line coming from the compressor. I am just guessing, it could be set up to react to either sides tank pressure. Seams to have two sections with a common exhaust. They use a different unloader system for the compressor in Europe, they dump the outlet from the compressor when the set pressure is reached, the compressor keeps pumping but has no resistance on the outlet.

That is a weird one, Nothing I have see fits the pictures. On the 2nd picture, it looks like there is a tag riveted to it. Wonder if it is European style compressor unloader? More I think about it, I bet that is what it is. Discharge line unloader.

????? I am not a mystic that can see what isn't there. We need pictures to know what you are talking about.

I have yet to see a credible source saying that the helicopter acknowledged, but haven't read everything. I'm waiting for VDR and FDC from both before making any cause predictions.

I read a story in the news where a EMD shucked a piston into a house, now that is dramatic!

Look again, it isn't the frame, the alternator is wider and still inside the frame.

Glad you are happy. When I was running trucks, a month and that kind of coin would have put me out of business. Of course back then you could buy a good used truck for 1/2 that. Times have changed!

I know someone in Pa who could use the parts.

Can't tell from pictures, but if the seal bore is or over 7.125" you could have the hub bored to accept a 776/772 combo and your done. https://www.ebay.com/itm/126201388758?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=126201388758&targetid=2299003535955&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9018343&poi=&campaignid=21214315381&mkgroupid=161363866036&rlsatarget=pla-2299003535955&abcId=9407526&merchantid=118875154&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvYah3YeZiwMVWDuHAx0yvyDmEAQYASABEgIXs_D_BwE

https://www.timken.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Timken-Tapered-Roller-Bearing-Catalog.pdf Never did find my paper copy.

I hadn't finished my coffee before I posted, so made a mistake. However, there are many options. The shaft size is 3.75 and the bore as it is now is 6.75, You could have a sleeve made to bring the O/D down to 6" and get a real common 594 bearing. That make the sleeve thick enough to not be a problem. The shaft size has more an effect on the load capacity then the OD of the bearing. It is even possible that someone in the past bored out the hub to make a repair and put that odd ball bearing in there. A good machine shop should be able to fix you with something that is a permanent repair. You need to measure the seal diameter at the spindle, if a common size, the best thing would be to press in a sleeve in the hub to take a common bearing and seal.

They were fine for their time. I use 6 way on all my trailers that aren't semi's. They were from a time with few bulbs on a trailer. Only major difference is the tail and marker feed a separate on a 7 and combined on a 6, pins are a little bigger on the 7. during the change over period, many had both receptacles on the front of the trailer. Some older ones were still around with only the 6, hence the adapter. I had one of those under my seat for a while, but never had to use it. Towed many with both receptacles, however.

Never heard of TN&C either and the .net doesn't have anything I can find either. I can't tell from the pictures, but if the air lines are still copper (quite often what was used back then) there is a good chance they are plugged up. If so I'd pull new plastic line. Should be easy on that one with the only problem over the 5th wheel. May have to pull a few deck boards for access. ext frame are great for lumber, and palleted material as the tend to "bow in and keep it tight together, but not as good for dense things like coils. I towed many trailer of that vintage and older, I see it has the hole in the bulkhead for the 6 way as well as having a 7 way on it.

At least around here, cut-off don't come with the center gears, so you are talking cut-off and a matched pair of center sections, possibly axle 1/2 shafts. depending on what you can find. If it were me, I would take a careful assessment of what I have now. What if you did all the changing and found the trans was no good? how about the engine? Look at what you have, decide what is good or could be cheaply fixed. Then decide what stays and what gets replaced. From what I can see you have Rockwell stop-master 15" brakes on the rear. Full kits for those can run some bucks, but each and every part can be purchased individually. It may only need seals, shoes, and chambers with the rest cleaning up. If your present rear suspension/housing/brakes can be brought to good condition for little money, that leaves more money for finding gear sets with a ratio more to your needs. Buying a cut-off and rear gears, having it welded in and reinforced, will soak up some serious cash, if you then find the trans has to be changed, that is more money you didn't plan on. If the same model trans can't go back that mean new driveshafts and the list goes on. Spend the time now, to assess the condition and make a plan, including finding out the exact price of the parts you need. Don't look at prices for any rear gear-set, look to see what the set you need will cost. Not assessing and making plan is how the best intentions go off the rails. People get so deep in and find they need serious bucks for something they didn't plan on having to replace. That is how some of these end up as a "pile of parts".

That may be true in the dirt, on highway, I had spring that did as good as the air ones did.

As built now I think 60 is not obtainable. Before you do a bunch of guessing, confirm what ratios you both rear and transmission. Do the math and then decide what is the most cost effective way to get what you want. 11x 25.5 tires have a 501 rev/mile diameter.

Kits go for as little as $32 surplus on the internet to over $1000. A lot depends on what kit fits your application and what you can find. Which is why I suggest takeing yours apart, assessing what is re-usable and what is not. $1000 per wheel end is very high, but before you consider changing to S cam, you'll need to find old (likely obsolete) drums that fit your 1964 hubs. Back then there were a lot of drum styles and not all are still made. You can't re-use the drums you have because of brake shoe diameter. If your current drums are serviceable, that knocks a big chunk off the cost of getting working brakes. I bet if you look, you can find a FIO Military manual for wedge brakes that will help you decide what is reuseable and what is not. Edit: I ran into the drum issue a while back. I had some old hubs, and the drums for that hub were NLA from the drum mfg's. I found a set on the shelf in Montana store of a parts house I had an account with. I stopped off on my way through as shipping would have cost more than the drums. They had ordered them for someone who never picked them up, and they sat in inventory for years. Had I not been able to procure the drums, I would have had to buy hubs as well as drums to convert to something more modern. This was on S cam drums!

It is almost always cheaper to go back with what it came with. It may look simple to change the spiders, but there can be a ton of stuff that has to be changed that isn't immediately evident. Like: the flange the spider bolts onto, being different for wedges than S cams or even being "clocked wrong" for S cams. What you have now, did at some point in its past, all work together. When you start changing stuff, you may find what "looks like it should work" doesn't. I have one truck with Wedges on the front (built that way). Unless you have an exact parts truck with the same rears and suspension but with S cams, there are a lot more questions than answers. Not only with the spiders be different the drums will be also, S cams need 16.5 x 7" to do the same work. Every once and a while I see "loaded spiders" for sale on the internet for wedge brakes, as the military used them A hobby truck that isn't going to be worked hard and put up wet, should be fine with wedges.

Good for you for attacking the brakes 1st. I would have put them ahead of rim changes. Wedge brakes have their share of detractors, and not somewhat without reason. When working properly, they are capable of stopping the truck with smaller drums and narrower shoes all while using less compressed air, all while being self adjusting decades before auto slacks where common. That is the good. The bad is, they have a tendency to freeze up if the wedge piston seals are damaged or missing. From your pictures I would say they are missing. The key to them is no rust or oxidation, plenty of lube on the adjuster and good "soft" rubber seals keeping the moisture and brake dust out of the actuators. By attacking the brakes first, you will know if you can bring them back. Be very careful to note how things are assembled, and make sure you can get full kits to bring it back. There is a little ratchet spring that turns the adjuster depending on how much movement is required for the linings to contact the drum. When they are all restored, they can be very good, but if it sits they freeze up easier than S cams.

Wonder why they were made that way? Normal wheel studs (for spoke wheels) are course thread both ends. Normal studs for other purposes, the course thread is the stationary thread (on the end of the stud that stays put) and the fine thread is on the rotating (nut) end. That is back-asswards. Course thread resists being pulled out, fine thread provides more clamping force before failure. axle drive studs, course in the hub, fine on the nut.

If I were to have walking beam (and have had), it would be spring. The walking beams, and any center point suspensions strong point is it dampens by transferring shock loads front and aft. The springs themselves don't do a whole lot of deflecting, and mainly on large "swells" where the load is on both axles at once. I don't see the air version as worth the complexity. I have run various spring suspension, and loaded properly they are fine. A lightly loaded walking beam on a short wheelbase tractor can and will "launch" the driver over a rough road. But any suspension will be rougher on a short wheelbase. KW 8 bag is notoriously rough despite haveing the most air bags of any air suspension. The Hendrickson designed Z spring combines the best of both worlds and has been around in some form or another for 50 years, only the walking beam design which has been around for about 100 years can claim longer life. Both are Hendrickson designs. The AR2 was never a big seller, and I have yet to see on a truck.

Voltage reading at the coil doesn't tell you alot, esp if the coils are externally ballasted. Some 12 volt coils are internally ballasted and most are externally. If you are unfamiliar with point ignition, then some help is needed before you go changing stuff that may not need changing. You want someone who has a dwell meter and knows how to use it. I'm assuming (and that is not always a good thing to do) that this truck was 12 volt from the get-go and not something that was changed by someone in the past. I suspect it was 12 from the get-go, but is from the era when that is not a given. You don't want to run a"New wire" from the switch to the coil if there is an external ballast resistor in the circuit somewhere. Taking the Ballast out of the circuit will cause weak high speed spark and could overheat and short the coil. Getting someone who can look over the ign system, set the points by dwell angle and time each distributor with a strobe, is really a must before you condemn anything.

IDK if there are lightweight foam fills, but the ones we had on construction equipment weighed a TON, and were part of the counter-weight system. Company foam filled some tires on golf-carts for the jobsite it was hard getting them going and stopped, they had way too much mass.