Gorilla

how would i test the shuttle valve?

E7 etech 470hp.

First time ive become aware of coolant filters (sorry only mainly worked on cars), but will look into it 100%...... I like the idea for sure. Its insane how badly people maintain their trucks (obviously not talking all but most).... one of the main reasons i got my own truck is because i was so fed up with the badly maintained rubbish they told me to drive.

Hi everybody, what would the coolant capacity be on a mack quantum or ch?

Hi everybody, Previous owner ran water and its a really tasty rust color (sarcasm) anyway i need some advice as to whats the best thing to use to clean it out before i put in coolant? I dont want to use nasty chemicals if possible. Also anybody with good ideas to clean out the coolant tank? i usually take them off and flush them with hot laundry detergent and srub them with a bootle brush then flush for as long as i cannot smell laundry powder.

Gonna go trough the whole air system with a fine tooth comb, being reasonably new to working on trucks im still learning how the air systems work but im 100% anti push on air fitting, they all suck, they suck and they are all gonna be swapped for brass ones that bolt together that dont suck Cab is fine, and its eaton diffs on hendrickson hair...only problem i have had was the 24v to 12v converter which was giving out a very "special" 20v!!! so i replaced it with a high end chinese one for $100 vs the original one for over 2k!!! and vualla all is perfect.

Im heading to the truck right now, will check it out what you said and take some pics too. Come to mind i have a pretty big air leak that i am next to address on a spin on air filter approximately 1 meter behind the gearbox, could this have something to do with it?

Driving along at 100km/hr, went over some bumps and the trucks revs went high and i realized the truck by itself had split down a gear, i tried to move the splitter switch back and forward and nothing happend so i pulled over and checked if any lines had come lose or anything like that but nope all seemed good. So i took off and all went well and about 15-20 minutes down the road it did exactly the same thing. Again i stopped and went through the gears and all went well after that for the next 20 minutes and i got to my destination (new location to finish working on the truck before i put it in service) Does anybody know where i should start with my investigation? I know i have some air leaks which i will address before i drive it again but pressure seems to be keeping up on the gauge and i am not getting any low pressure errors.

Very cool that your in Russia, im Polish and seriously considering moving Russia or Belarus as Australia is insane in so many ways and getting worse.... as an example a few months ago i got a letter from the local council that if i dont remove my truck from my property they will tow it away and fine me 900 dollars on top of the towing costs !!! WTF i own the fkn house. Anything stupid like that in Russia? But thats not just it, it goes far far deeper and when i looked at returning to Poland i found it have become very left wing america and getting worse by the day so i thought what brotherly slavic country wont go this direction and thus Russia or Belarus. Damn i love some of the new Russian trucks, wish we had the here.

Yeh Volmackud are scum of the earth, total filthbags..... i dont think i will contact them again if i can help it. As for gearing i have done number crunching and this is how i see it: *E7 develops peak torque from about 1400rpm and peak hp around 1600 with 90% peak hp around the 1470rpm (which is what im aiming at). *On the freeway the motor is screaming at 100km/hr and i found myself looking for a another gear (or two) and this is not the first mack i drove. *I will be towing singles long distance where this truck was built for heavy loads local, huge difference 300rpm makes in fuel consumption thus profit. *If i approach a hill i can always split it to 17th gear and this gives me near identical rpm to what 18th was with the 4.65 gears *I will be driving mostly level ground with some hills but nothing huge Am i missing the point? some say im crazy while others agree that if im happy to gear down in a steep hill then this will work to improve fuel efficiency. Cheers, Chris

Here is a fun little fact, Mack in australia have gone full retard.......yep they have and this is why i say it: As i was sorting out the wiring as morons who owned the truck previously really did a number on it i found the morons had connected the solenoid/relay from under the battery box and hot wired everything which is all sorts of stupid but ok. Found the solenoid/relay was faulty (required excessive current to activate) so called Mack, only to not be even called back by first dealer after two days (yay for bad service) and second dealer gave me a price of $500 australian buckeroos!!! WTF $500 bucks for a fkn solenoid/relay?? Are they smoking crack? So i ordered very nice one from a company that supplies the mining industry for $120 bucks delivered, went full overkill as Mack refused to tell me the amp rating .. this one is rated at 200amps continous duty with a 700amp surge rating which should suffice as the power wire looks to be rated at maybe 150 amps. Seriously wtf $500 bucks?

Honestly dont know, but suspect they had the same situation that the quantums had i.e. early models were on renault chassis with e7 engines, later models were mack ch chassis with e7 engines and even later models were mack ch chassis with ISX engines........ i believe this has something to do with emission regulations and the e7 not being able to satisfy the masters (government) so they gave the truck AIDS (isx). In a few years i plan on rebuilding a Magnum with the ch chassis and e7 engine as while rebuilding the Quantum it hit me i should have gone for the more spacious Magnum. But still love the Quantum.....im nearing completion to sorting out the wiring, putting TPMS in, adding amp and custome 6x9 brackets for rear, modifying the radio controls on the stalk to also pick up and hang up phone, custom stereo etc etc. Then i will be adding a pre-oiller (aircraft continous duty type), rebuilding the turbo and sorting the rear main seal out (but still have to make a jig to pull the transmission back to get to it.

Hey Everybody, Didnt post much as was way too busy.... but the Mack Quantum i got a few years ago is nearing completion. Insane amount of work from respraying and re-aligning panels, doors etc all the way to rewiring internal multiple 24 to 12v converters into single one.... to fully sound proofing her.... to custom made mirror brackets so both sides have a original looking convex mirror.... to wiring in a nice stereo with custom 6x9 in the back with amp and a nice android auto screen so ill get maps off the phone on a 12" screen Everything was color coded including the door handles which i think looks mint, every deteriorated external plastic was repaired, and properly painted and they look like new (even if i say so myself) and i wont have to worry about the fkn oxidisation anymore. Have a near new 5th wheel im about to fit as my ball race piece of garbage is just that and about to change the diff ratio to better suit long range driving (from 4.65 to 3.7). Also all lights bar headlights and reading lights are led and all original rubber floor mat is in the tip and will be replaced with nice marine carpet after another layer of sound proofing. Also bed modified so no longer has factory flaw of rubbing on the drivers seat while driving as i like my seat pushed back..... ah well its a little more narrow in the end but who cares. Also sorted out wiring under the battery box which has all the converters etc (dont ask me how insanely bad it was fkd around with) and am stuck on how to connect the abs plug as its not straight forward and there are no manuals for the mack quantum (yay all hail the unholy union of 24v renault and a mack ch but in its defence its the later model with ch rails and rides sublime while being a truck mack ch in its driveline inc e7 470hp and Road Ranger 18 speed). Back to the abs plug, 3 wires come of of it, one thick with a large hoop (as it would be ground or 12v/24v?) and two plug in square connectors........... what makes me scratch my head is the abs plug has 7 connectors on it and cannot for the life of me figure out why in fk only 3 wires coming out plus i dont think my truck has abs although i could be wrong but i dont think so. Is this plug in some way designed to plug into the trailer and tell it to fk off your being towed by a non abs truck? Still stuck why 1 thick wire and two thin ones....... the thick wire goes to to pins on the connector btw so really 4 pins are connected in theory. Here are some pics of the girl, if you look at my past posts you will see what i started with........different truck

Yeh Its interesting as the load boards are garbage and cant find a broker to save myself so i think your right. Im in melbourne if that makes a difference and am aware most want late model trucks towing their stuff but im going above and beyond to make my truck look as modern as possible and clean white paint with no markings and everything including door handles painted to match so will stand out looking much newer. When i was operating for a reefer mob i noticed at woolworths total shitheaps towing their stuff (cough kenworth 104 cough) that werent in what id call good condition in any way so figure work is there.....also a lot of older 2000ish model volvos. Yeh i figure ill contact the mobs i would tow their trailers and see but yeh. Thanks for getting back to me.

Hi Everybody, Im 1/2 way through sorting my truck out and as the time comes near i am looking into finding contracts for work. I primarily want to operate as a tow operator at the beginning and in an ideal world would like to do reefer work ( as my hearing isnt good and i have a back condition so minimal hands on work for reefer). Basically i need a mentor who knows the game, in exchange i am happy to help with mechanical and electrical work and i have all the diagnostic equipment and a pretty decent workshop setup. Load boards here suck, their nothing like the ones in the states and i cant for the life of me find a broker, any broker..... simply none advertise which is weird.......so how do people get contacts for work? Cheers in advance, Chris