Gorilla

not temp resistant paint brother, its all black ceramic coating

I have worked in computers since i was 14 or so, loved it then learned to hate it and now refuse to work in it due to the bunch that are imported with their many degrees yet zero knowledge and lots of lies (we all know who im talking about which says a lot now doesnt it)!!. Got into truck driving but found the companies/owners had no clue about trucks (keep in mind im a petrol head but i was fairly new with trucks at this point and i knew much more then they did) and the unroadworthy garbage they gave me to drive made my skin crawl. I do my own work and o boy do i get surprises from the "special" so called "mechanics" who previously worked on my truck. Old saying "Hard times make strong men, strong men make easy times, easy times make weak men, weak men make hard times"...........i was not born soft like most these days.

Know its an old post but if your in melbourne i might be able to help you out, im fairly new with the quantums but having a IT background nothing about this truck scares me and would love to help as this might help me with mine one day. Also have some very cool diagnostic equipment

Fitted the rebuilt Turbo with ceramic coated exhaust manifold and turbo hot side, new studs, new bolts and painted the rocker covers and jakes Tomorrow stainless exhaust going on :)

Dziękuję bracie

Its actually really nice and roomy for the driver and the shifter is shaft operated, most importantly is there is plenty of leg room where i find most american trucks dont (mack is the exception)......dont get me started on the Kenworth SAR, i was getting leg cramps in it!!!

It was the time Volvo owned Mack and Renault, they needed a cabover body so they used the Renault Premium DCI body which worked well BUT there is a twist. There were three variants from my understanding and i picked the best of the bunch. YES its australia only models and there are flaws in its implementation that i am addressing such as the cabin is 24v while the engine is 12v so they put voltage converters under the battery box which is behind the engine. I have since replaced the rubbish australian made converters that were giving me 20v for whatever reason with high end chinese ones (i know you may laugh but you can get high end stuff in china and these give a very clean 13.8v) and relocated it under the bed in the cabin where the ECU for the engine sits and there is ample room (thus put my amp, fuse boxes for accessories and added relay for converter which switches on with the 24v ignition switch). The australian converters from a company called "redarc" which were used originally have a really good reputation but the company told me they only keep wiring diagrams for current models (not kidding, my jaw dropped but the staff did give me info which wires did what but sadly that turned out to be wrong !!!), whereas the chinese company provides wiring diagrams for the old models on their website (as they should) and costs 1/12th the price of the australian brand!!! Sadly i would like to use Australian products but 12 times the price while not providing wiring diagrams is a joke and i have worked for chinese companies in electronics and they are awesome with technical diagrams and i am not surprised they are doing so well. Variants: 1. Early ones had Renault frame (plus axles it seems and tanks etc), but mack e7 engine, this was troublesome as the frame was narrower and was insanely bad to get to the air pump (this is where people say the issues with quantums being hard to work on comes from). 2. Mid version (my model) had Mack CH everything under the cabin so essentially its a CH with e7, eaton Road ranger etc and only difference is you need to lift the cabin to work on it which is no biggie as come with both hand and electric cab lift. 3. Last version same as mid version but with an ISX engine rather then the e7 (i suspect to meet polluton requirements), also one i avoided in the search as i wanted the mighty e7.

Hey Everybody, Here are some pics, lots of work gone in, waiting on new square tanks, still to fit nearly new 5th wheel and finishing up converting all the air fittings to compression fittings, tomorrow fitting rebuilt turbo, stainless exhaust, ceramic coated exhaust manifold and figure out why the wires are cut to the electric cab tilt pump (been using manual as didnt realize it had a electric one). Interior is multi layered sound proofing and marine carpet.

Going to look into it today, although i dont have overheating problems just coolant is either really old and rusty or its water and im not game to taste it and see if it is coolant hahaha. Plan is to put a camera into the radiator once ive cleaned it to see what its like inside and then decide weather to replace the radiator. Truck is not overheating as such, more so preventative maintenence.

Ill take some pics tomorrow when im at the truck, very little information online on the Quantum and its unique to both renault and macks so fun times hahaha ;)

if it does not have one can you retrofit them to the etech?

works out cheaper to use distilled water with concentrate

would you guys be concerned about the state of the radiator or heat exchanged ? Im building the truck to do long runs and it gets hot here (40+ degrees celcius) and concerns are running in my mind as to weather to just replace the radiator and heat exchanger?

Hi Everybody, Previous owner ran water rather then coolant and its a nice rusty hue and i am planning on doing a flush of the cooling system consisting of: *drain water out *put in fresh water, run engine then drop again after 20 minutes *if dirty water coming out then repeat previous process *if clean then put in coolant system flush with fresh water and follow instructions *flush system out of with fresh water *put in distilled water to flush out all/most of the fresh water and run engine for a 20 minutes *Put coolant concentrate mixed to highest level with distilled water This will be fine BUT i have a concern and that is the heat exhanger tube for the oil, i know they can fail and have been toying with the idea of removing it and cleaning it before i put in fresh coolant. Also tossing up taking the radiator to a radiotor place to get it reconditioned as a precaution. What is everybodies thoughts? Thank you in Advance, Chris

NEVER EVER run a dpf emulator EVER, inevitably this will cause your dpf to block up but potentially will kill your engine as the restriction in the exhaust will grow and the compute wont be able to stop it (as normally blockages introduce a dpf burn off cycle). I hate DPFs and EGRS and whoever inventem them is a total POS but the law is the law and sadly it is always possible to tell the truck was deleted regardless how well it was done, sure you may get away with it on a car BUT commercial vehicles are different. The whole emissions rubbish is the main reason i bought a pre egr and pre dpf truck and am rebuilding it to put back into work..... do the same, its not as expensive as it seems and you can always put a new cab onto an old frame and have the best of both worlds!!!

over here paid nearly 400 usd or all this stuff, i must make a contact in the USA that ships to australia, here the australia tax is out of control.

Yeh price is much higher then in the USA. Ended up getting them now, and original mack bolts as were oddly reasonably cheap and very nice quality.

I got some PAI studs which are treaded only part of the way but am finding getting the nuts nearly impossible after market and was wondering about using stainless lock nut (not nylon but all stainless locking bit) and a thick stainless washer as price is 1/20th of the copper nuts and from what i have read the copper is only there to stop corossion. I am tossing up loctite 272 or Permatex 59235 high temperature thread sealant. The copper nuts are over 40 australian dollars each from the dealer and paying 500 bucks for 12 nuts seems like highway robbery to me.

Hey everybody, Today i took the turbo off as im getting it rebuilt with new bearings as it showing signs of wear and better to catch it early before you have to replace housings. Anyways rear bottom exhaust stud was wet around it with oil so i figure time to address this BUT need some advice. Best part is when i went to feel what sort of oil it was on my fingers i was able to unbolt the stud with my fingers which kinda made me think special thoughts ;). Would some moron who worked on the truck not bolt it up properly or am i looking at a bigger problem? the thread felt find when i bolted it in and no evidence of damage? Im intending on replacing the exhaust gasket, do i need to change the bolts and all the studs while im at it? What is the best method to stop the studs leaking oil? Do i need to put new bolts for the turbo too? (when i reinstall it) Also have build up off oil on the rear of the motor, are these motors known to do sump gaskets ? Anybody know a good place to get the bits in melbourne australia? or at least australia?

Try getting parts for a Mack quantum in Australia, its almost black magic to find a part

Nothing cooler then a girl who knows her stuff mechanically on the condition and that is she doesnt have blue hair and isnt one of these modern so called feminists.

Im 48 and even in my age group very rare you meet a real man, most seem to be "special". I was working on a building site driving a tipper and i was shocked how all the so called "truckers" put up with abuse from excavator drivers etc... soon after i sold my tipper and now building a mack e7 quantum..... and im doing all the work myself.

how would i test the shuttle valve?

E7 etech 470hp.

First time ive become aware of coolant filters (sorry only mainly worked on cars), but will look into it 100%...... I like the idea for sure. Its insane how badly people maintain their trucks (obviously not talking all but most).... one of the main reasons i got my own truck is because i was so fed up with the badly maintained rubbish they told me to drive.