Gorilla

DUDE YOU ROCK!!! SERIOUSLY you ROCK!!!! hooked up another battery to the EECU fuse under the bonnet and came to life first turn (seems my bleeding was spot on). Interestingly if i disconnect that jumper while the engine is running the truck dies which i suspect means the relay feeding it is not working right. Where is the relay that feeds it? where is this Fuse 40? keep in mind im in australia so steering wheel is on the other side.

Yeh mate this is the plan Fuel is definately clean to all six Ill keep you all update.

Also ill try your trick too with the ecu fuse good idea

Interesting you say that as i have another truck with the e7 etech (which im keeping ) and same batteries started it no worries. So the starters like to die in this way, interesting. Got an old school load tester (one that uses a heat coil) and found it to be super reliable so will try out the batteries tomorrow. But would a starter get damaged from sitting for a few years? maybe the high pressure washing left water in it?

Ok just got back from the truck and found that no signal at injectors so electrical, checked voltage on battery while cranking and about 8.5v SOOOO tomorrow gonna put different more powerful batteries in and lets see. Fkn sure i bled it right, to be sure to be sure today cracked a two injectors and got no bubbles (at the head). Thank you all for the input i am seriously greatfull........ seems i didnt factor in that trucks suck up voltage like stupid.... my bad. Will keep you updated.

only downloaded it last night, thanks for that advice

ah crap you may be onto something, gonna check that too, thanks

ill check this out and report back

Its an Etech not Aset, today im going to read codes, possible one of the sensors (crank or cam) is causing computer not to send signal to injectors too.....

Should add, i noticed that if i walk away after hand pumping the fuel primer and come back 5 minutes later it is no longer hard and i need to pump it a bit more. Starting to wonder if the fuel check valve is stuck open? Also after cranking the engine the fuel primer is soft again.

Im cracking the lines at the head as figured air rises. Why can they be a bastard to get started? Im starting to worry.

Hi Everybody, Background story is truck ran perfect although needed work(unrelated to the engine), everything from fan shroud to fuel tanks were damaged so it has been sitting around while i sorted it all out. As I only disconnected the fuel supply line at the tank i figured it wont draw air into the fuel system (boy was i wrong) but it did sit like that for over two years while i sorted other things out. Here is what i have done: *repeatedly primed it with hand pump and pressure builds and can feel it but no start *cracked the the lines to the injectors one by one and found there was air in the system so hand pumped till clean fuel came out, tried to start and nothing. *cracked with injectors and cranked it and clean fuel came out of all injector lines, tightened back up, primed hand pump nothing. only thing i can think of that i did not do is check the fuel filters are full of fuel but as i did not have a filter wrench with me today i did not do that but will tomorrow. How do i read the blink lights to get codes and is there a code list you could give me? Its a 2003 Etech 410hp Other option is while i was painting the frame and disconnected stuff i may have left some sensor disconnected but i am pretty good at making sure all is well generally although my experience is more so with cars and not trucks and have bled diesel fuel systems without issue in cars. I have purchased a vocom but it will be a few weeks away and hoping to get it running at least before that. Thank you in advance, Chris

Funny you would say that, my truck was used for concrete panel haulage before i bought it. Last job i was driving trucks with Teflon plates the 5th wheels were getting covered in grease and i did not notice an issue. Im in a very steep learning curve as i got out of IT(computers) a few years ago, was driving tippers and tautliners in heavy rigids and only drove Big rigs in the last year. Im still in two minds of which way to go as i will be driving another companies trailers and they will have grease on them 100% and im not going to clean up a trailer every morning i pick up a new one (as trailers are pre loaded and waiting).

Worked for a dozen companies and nobody told me about ballrace turntables hahahaha, no kidding.

I can get a whole new ballrace assembly at a fairly reasonable price (around 1-1.2k aud), i dont think i can fix the existing one due to the nature of the damage.

Hi Paul, Thanks for the input and im leaning that way but my understanding is that the ball race type needs to be hooked up to a trailer that has the wedge behind the pin, and as i will be towing another companies trailers im pretty sure they dont have the wedge. So without the wedge ive read you hack to lock the ball race turntable into position so it doesnt move in which case it behaves like a normal fixed turntable which 1. negates having a ball race turntable and 2. is not a good idea s this is not good for the ball bearings. Of course if i had my own trailer i would make sure i have the wedge as it makes sense but alas here we are. Chris

Hi Everyone, I am relatively new to the truck ownership game and need some advice. Specifically i found the truck i purchased had a ballrace turntable which was locked into place for many years (which i have read is bad for a ballrace turntable). It was seized in place and spent quite a few hours with wd40, high pressure washer and degreaser (and repeat with obviously wd40 at the end), i got it unseized. Thing is its now really "crunchy" while turning to safe to say the bearings are not in the best of shape and ultimately not servicable. Question i have is what are your thoughts on replacing the ball race or replacing the 5th wheel for one that has a teflon plate? Essentially i know their goal is the same of making the trailer connection to be easier to turn and put less stress on the components. Which way should i go and why? Thank you in advance, Chris

Oh yes im going to make sure of the compatibility of the 462 and 461 although all the parts ive seen listed for the 462 list the 461,462 and 463 as that part fitting thus my assumption that its just a different model number for the same part (maybe different stamp to coincide with truck manufacturer?). HRM so 46 was not a common diff? Strange this model mack would come with it factory. As for shipping, yeh ive contacted a few mobs and will see what they come back with. Do you know of any place you could recommend? I check on air freight and it would still be much cheaper then getting one local.

That notch seems like nothing problematic if you have a grinder Been doing a lot of thinking and given i have 18 speeds i really see no point of a two speed differential. Do you guys have a lead as to who i can buy the diffs centers in the usa? just want some 3.7 462/461 with power divider, obviously one ds p and one rs Also had a good look at whats involved in changing the diff centre and have decided im gonna do it myself.

Hi Everybody, Any recommendations as to anywhere i can go to get these diffs in america? In Australia i was quoted insane prices so i figure ill be better off paying the freight. I notice you have DS461P and RS461 diffs in the USA, are they the same as the DS462P and RS462? Also id be interested in really healthy ones but ratio must be 3.7 and have power divider installed. Cheers, Chris

Just realized, my truck will effectively be a 36 speed with a 2 speed diff hahahahaha

your fairly clear, i think you misunderstood me, as im thinking weather i can find some two speed 461 housings in the right ratio with good ring and pinion and pay a diff mob to throw a rebuild kit through it then fit it to my truck. Part of the cost will be offset as ill sell my original diffs which are in good condition. Sadly i spoke with a diff rebuilding place today and for two reco diffs to change over they wanted 15k aud inc fitting but to me that sounds insane given my cores are not in bad condition and all i want is a ratio swap. Tomorrow ill call the other diff builder i spoke to and see if he believes the 461 two speed carrier will go into my axle, if it does then the hunt will begin. Part of me is thinking i can swap the diff centers myself because ive done axles and axle bearings myself without a problem and i can weld up a A frame or even use my engine hoist. Doesnt seem any more difficult then single handedly doing a gearbox swap on a 4wd with a transfer case (which ive done without problem). In Australia the labor charges are crazy stupid expensive and a lot of truckies go broke because of them......i do most of my own work but dont want to screw around with shims and alignments in building diff centres because there is a bit of black magic that happens there that you cant learn without years of experience.

Interesting, im under the impression that the 462 is a newer revision of the 461 as the pinions etc are the same and the rebuild kits suit 461,462 and 463. So yeh ill speak to a rebuild place and see what they think as maybe it might not even cost more as a rebuild kit is the same and instead of getting new ratios installed ill just put a rebuild kit through it before i get it installed This would give me the best of both worlds btw what ratios are you running? and what motor + whats your gearbox final drive ratios

HRM, two speed axles you say, this is interesting. I am running RS462 diffs with 4.56 ratios and am wondering what diff centre i could replace it with that will give me say 3.7 + 4.56 ratios? or 3.7 +5.2 or anything that way. Would be VERY cool having best of both worlds. Do you have any info on this? I want to retain the power divider but could live without lockers. Spoke to one diff place today and alas its australia so they didnt even attempt to use lube when they quoted me and also told me im stupid for going that low in gearing, spoke to another diff place and explained what im doing and they reakon it will work. Now where do i find these two speed diff centres, i want some BAD!

I had a good look at the frame today and alas i do not believe that it is a Renault frame, it is a straight frame and the gap between the compressor and frame is approximately inch and a half or more so definately not like in the pics. Im waiting for some money to come in so started withe the "free" jobs and alas ripped out all the interior covers and removed a old cd stacker controller and wires, got the cb and uhf working, fixed the foot air operated steering wheel adjustment but not putting it all together till I get the new stereo and will upgrade to the current model renault remote .....ill show you pics, its a really cool little joystick that controls your audio right behind the steering wheel that you can do almost everything on your stereo without removing your hands from the wheel and even answer calls on the new model which will integrate into the pioneer stereo ill fit . Im a bit of a french car nut So sorry no pics of interior although will lift cab in the next few days and show you the rest after i give the chassis+engine a good wash and detail as i hate working on dirty engines