RS Disposal

I just remember my tire guy would ask if my wheels were budd when I need new ones

That I would hope not being these brakes are only accessible by removing the drive hub along with the drum. I will try looing thru the inspection hole on the backing plate to see if I can see anything

the cams get grease at approximately once a month when I do a pm on the truck

thanks, that was what I was thinking might be. This is a garbage truck and the dump is a very dusty place in the summer As far as the torque that is what I was thinking also being everything I found was saying the same. But everything I found was not saying anything about the older inner and outer lug nut style bud wheels

just the shoes were replaced and only one wheel. No noticed difference in stopping performance

Not really sure if this is in the right forum and it isnt necessarily just a Mack trk question. Lately occasionally my brakes will howl when I slow to a stop. I call it more of a howl than a squeak. The brakes were replace about 5,000 miles ago. No noises until just recently. Somebody told me this can be cause by dirt in the drums. Just curious and wondering what the cause is. My other question is about lug nut torque. I can find alot of info dealing with the newer trucks. But what about the older inner and outer steel wheel torques. Found a couple of broke studs which I am assuming was caused from being lazy and using a 1 inch rattle gun to tighten rather than a torque wrench. Going to replace all studs on the rear axle

I am not a heavy truck mechanic, but do have the mechanical inclination to understand what I was doing. I am a light truck/automotive mechanic so I must admit the the larger engine, etc was a little intimidating. I asked ALOT of questions and solicited opinions on alot of subjects from head work to camshaft/lifters to cooling system. With all the help etc I was able to get my trk up and running and so far it is running great. I no longer overheat going up the canyon empty even in the winter. I can now do this even with a load on and the engine never gets over 180 and daytime temps here have been pushing triple digits. There were a dozen or so that helped me, but right off the top of my head was Geoff Weeks, Joey Mack and Mrsmackpaul But I want to say thanks to everyone through my various posts.

I ended up buying a new Mack radiator. The core dimensions were all the same as the old radiator. But this radiator requires an expansion/overflow tank. I got an expansion tank off off a dead trk in the yard. From what I was able to see (this trk had a side mounted radiator) the large hose out the bottom goes to the lower radiator hose. My question is the two smaller hoses that go into the top of the tank. It appears when tracing down the lines on two other trucks with expansion tanks that one line goes before the thermostat and the other goes after the thermostat (upper radiator hose). Just wanting to double check being my pickup only has one small line into the top of the radiator and google searches have basically been geared towards automotive systems.

Valve lash question. This engine has the dynatard so it has the hydraulic exhaust valve lash adjuster. Book say you need a special tool to adjust this. When I adjusted the lash back when the head was rebuilt, I just made sure I was pressing down on the adjuster as I was taking my measurement. Is there a different/better way I should be doing this or just making sure the adjuster has downward pressure on it while taking the measurement work?

Sanitation engineer

I am definitely keeping all my old parts. It's kinda a thing with me that the wife doesn't understand. And I definitely agree that it is a brotherhood. I drove truck western states for 15 years before I took over full time my dad's garbage trk business and his trucks. Started helping him 63 yrs ago and as much as I could when I was OTR. Took over full time when he got off the trk at 83 yrs old and been doing it now for 30 yrs.

it was definitely in the center of the dampener. put an impact socket into the center of the dampener where the bolt goes so the force was directly in the center. With the heating of the dampener with the heat gun before it didn't take much to get the dampener on far enough to engage the bolt

This forum for me has been a godsend. Everybody has been so helpful in my quest and with my learning curve since my breakdown last fall that started my journey. I know there must be some older mechanics in my area who would know this stuff, but when I was first making inquiries into having a shop do the repair the attitude I got was that nobody really wanted to work on a 40 yr old truck. Probably because it wasn't sitting in their shop taking up space and knowing that sourcing some parts might be time consuming

this repair is in frame I was able to get dampener on by using emery cloth to make sure everything was clean and a heat gun. Was able to get it on far enough with some light tapping with a brass hammer far enough for the bolt to engage the threads and pull it on the rest of the way

A heat gun I do have, Thanks

Book says to heat vibration dampener for 13 minute in 250 degree oil. That I do not have access to. Is there something a little simple for me to do? And I agree about the camshaft gear. My son said he might of been able to get a small oven that they use at his work to heat bearings for the big pumps his company rebuilds.

Thanks, I eventually found the adjustment in the service manual. Guess I'm getting tired. Been up since 11 pm last nite

Sorry about all the questions, but should I mess with the end play adjustment on the timing cover. have yet to find in the service manual where this is addressed. Maybe I'm just blind LOL

the only metal cased rubber seal was the vibration dampener

another quick question. When I opened the gasket set to get ready to put the timing cover on, I noticed lead wire (kinda like thick solder) about maybe 15 inches long. I don't remember seeing anything like this on disassembly. Am I missing something or is this possibly used somewhere else in the engine that I haven't been into on this repair. The set is a front/lower end gasket set from PAI

The new camshaft from PAI arrived last nite. Only ordered it tuesday afternoon. Got it in no problem. Question - Is there anything other than timing marks I should be paying attention to and also what is the accepted procedure to break in the cam?

I totally agree about "all it takes is money" but that is something due to many circumstances I just don't have. My shop just says they can't get a core to rebuild. Maybe it is the attitude of shops in my area. When I first had my breakdown last summer I approached several shops about doing the work. I was either told that they were interested in working on older trucks or that the parts were all no longer available, thus the truck was dead in the water without a new engine swap.

NOPE, not even close LOL

Well according to those who are suppose to know this stuff, it is. Guess I'll find out tomorrow afternoon