RS Disposal

Still waiting to hear back from the machine shop, but upon looking closely when I took it in he didn't think he would find any cracks. But magafluxing will tell for sure. Going to start putting the bottom end back together. Should I use any type of thread locker on the connecting rods bolts? What about the head bolts? I know on the head it was said to dip into 30w oil and my thinking is thread locker requires clean threads. Have to braze the inside of the pan where it appears probably from new, or close to, there is a couple of small holes where the center support bracket was spot welded to the pan. I could never really find where the oil leak was other than assuming that was where it was coming from. Once the pan was off and cleaned, I could see where the problem was and when I filled the pan with water and let it sit, it confirmed my assumption. This has definitely been a journey and learning experience for me and this forum was a huge help. It has just been frustrating in the sourcing of parts, the head mainly. My biggest mistake was not starting off right to begin with and doing my due diligence of tracking parts myself rather than inquiring into several different shops that if they could find parts I would bring truck in. Never heard back from any of them. Guess since my truck wasn't sitting in their shop taking up paying space they didn't really have the incentive to spend alot of time on my behalf. Also on a previous post I was asking about a small difference in old vs new piston weight, being the new piston was slightly heavier than the old piston. I had an "awe ha" moment a bit ago that when I weighed the two I failed to take into account the hole and missing material in the old piston. Pretty sure my weight will be, if not the same, very close to being the same as the old piston before the damage

no problem, I just down load and rotate myself. Greatly appreciate the info

Was there any reference as to tightening sequence.?

thank you

Another quick question. the old piston had just 2 compression rings and the new piston has 3. The third just above the oil rings. I rad that piston weights should all be the same or else it can cause vibration issues. The new piston is .7 ounces heavier than the old piston with just the top 2 compression rings. When the third is added the piston is 1.7 ounces heavier. Is this weight difference going to be a problem and should I leave the third ring off? Should I maybe remove 1.7 ounces of material from the piston itself?

That I have found out and am very appreciative for everyone on this forum

I would very much appreciate that. Also any words of wisdom you can share as far as anything I should do or be on the look out for as I reassemble this engine. I will definitely be chasing all threads and bolt holes so I get accurate torque readings

The help I have gotten here was definitely invaluable and very much appreciated.

Well, I learned my lesson about relying on other people/shops that are regulars in the heavy truck world to see about sourcing parts. Didn't even have the courtesy of letting me know they didn't have time after telling me the would let me know what they find or can't find. Hench started my quest for the parts myself. If I had just started doing it myself I would probably be 2-3 weeks ahead of where I am now. Every website that said they had a head in stock, once I called they did not have one. So I have taken the head into my machine shop (this guy went above and beyond communicating and trying to help me source a head locally. Definitely will have any and all future work I might need done.). Guess I'll see what the verdict is as far as any cracks. Took a jeweler's magnifier eye loop on high power and a real bright light after I cleaned the head and didn't see any possible cracks. Hopefully when it gets Magnafluxed it will tell me the same thing. New valves, seals, seats and guides are all repairable. Have gotten my bottom end parts in so I get to start putting that back together. My shop manual that came with the truck only shows torques for head bolts (175), exhaust studs (35), intake manifold (33-37) & injector nozzle stud nut (16-18). Can't seem to find the connecting rod, pan bolts, water manifoild, rocker cover bolts & turbo mounting bolt torques. Any info in this area is greatly appreciated

pretty sure I know the answer, but have available a head from an engine that is 10 yrs newer than mine. engine model number EM6-300L casting number 5311A also the guy has an engine model number E6-250 Head isn't off the either engine so not really sure what it looks as far as a match Like I said, pretty sure I know the answer and that it isn't a working match

thank you

Sorry for all the questions, but as I mentioned earlier this is my first heavy truck engine. Been cleaning up bolts and misc parts today in prep for new parts later this week. How important is it that I replace all the head bolts?

I do believe it is of some help. any and all part numbers I have has been of help being the only supplier I have been working with that can do anything with the VIN number is the dealer. Everybody else tells me the VIN number is not a good Mack VIN. Dealer has been really helpful in looking up and providing me with Mack part numbers. With that info I have been able to pretty much track down what I need that is no longer available thru the dealer. Pics would be great rs.disposal@gmail.com

I wasn't considering changing out the whole engine . Was just thinking of having spare parts. I don't have anything in my shop big enough to take the cab off and lift an engine out. As stated in previous posts this engine only has about 150,000 miles on it. Unfortunately a collet broke dropping the valve into the cylinder. Being the guy is willing to sell just the head I am assuming that it isn't a running core, therefore as far as spare parts not sure actually what there might be and what I might need.

In my search for a head I keep hearing that it must be the same casting number as my head. What is the difference between the casting numbers? Anybody really know what heads will work? I know there is a 4 valve and a 2 valve head and since mine is 2 valve it is obvious as to what I need there. I may of found a core engine that the guy says matches my engine ID plate. Says he will sell just the head, but if I want the whole engine I can do that also. Limited info on this engine right now until monday as to whether it is a running core or not and I will also ask about casting number. Engine is 90 miles north of me which isn't a big deal if I really want to go look at it. Not sure how I will unload it off the trailer, but guess I cross that bridge when I get there. Also another question about sources additional parts. I think I finally found the intake & water manifold gaskets and what looks like exhaust gaskets through AGKITS (which shows them as being PAI, but when my supplier was talking with them they couldn't find anything other than head gaskets. Questions now is where can I find the metal nut keepers ( not sure what they are called) where you fold over the tab on the exhaust manifold.? The gasket set doesn't show those.

My machine shop is having a hard time getting an injector out, which has to happen before he can send the head for repair. Says he doesn't have alot of time to work on that issue. Going to go pick it up and work on it myself. Any pointers as to what I should try?

I did notice a small crack between the injector hole and valve seat. I am hoping that the shop is able to tell me that the head is repairable.

Yea, I am. Not too many older trucks in the west from what I understand. If my head isn't repairable then finding a good rebuildable in a wrecking yard is my next move and if need be having it shipped

I called and they told me that it was actually out of stock at this time but I could check back being they are continually rebuilding heads

I was able to get the time to pull the pan today. Inside engine is surprising clean, but then it only has about 175,00 mile (but they are city miles). In checking all the cam lobes and lifters I see no abnormal wear. All push rods were rolled on a piece of glass and all are straight. Still hadn't found a head, either rebuilt or a rebuildable one. Piston came out thru the top easily whereas there was absolutely no damage whatsoever to the cylinder wall and no ridge at the top to contend with. So I took the head into my machine shop to get it Magna flexed and hopefully rebuilt. Will wait till I hear back before I pull the trigger in ordering additional parts

Im not sure. Maybe somebody here can answer that. I will also maybe go back to the dealer and see if they are able to answer that question

My machine shop agrees with what I feel was the cause. Keeper broke and caused valve to drop and hit piston. From wear marks and the way the keeper broke it appears the valve stem wore to the point the rocker was hitting the keeper resulting in it breaking. Obviously the piston is destroyed. Machine shop says if head cracked there is a company they deal with that specifically specializes in repairing cracked diesel heads. Not cheap but at this point my only option is to have this head rebuilt. Hoping to find the time this weekend to get the pan pulled

As with everybody else that shows the head on their website, It isn't currently available

Got the head off. Goping to take it to the machine shop and have it check. Needs at least both #4 cylinder valves and at least one seat and valve guide & an injector.. Piston is destroyed.

I haven't had any luck so far in finding a used head as of yet, but honestly haven't spent a lot of time in that direction yet.