The Heinz

I've been following this Jennings Motor Sports guy for a while now, and was surprised to see an old Mack on his channel. He's insanely good at rescuing super old cars and trucks, and has the most optimistic outlook on things that genuinely inspires me. Take a look and see what ya'll think about this old girl. He says he'll actually restore her too!

Woops, I hit the V when I should have hit E again! Good to know, we haven't had too many EECU complaints on the "older" trucks, didn't know they relocated. Learning something new.

Nope, I don't know why for this specific part. Usually I only see o-rings or small bolts or something that has a required order size. Not blessed lifters! The system used to look up parts now is HORRIBLE for trying to find crosses, and it takes a bit of research to make a good cross because of that. Stuff like E7 lifters working in an E6 is not something with Volvo/Mack's name on it would show. That kind of research is what brought me here in the first place. EDIT: I'd like to emphasize that parts guy wasn't wrong, he just doesn't have the resources to go much further than that. Mack's FleetCross program doesn't show a single cross for the original 72GC347A number. It's not our fault all the time, our superiors usually don't bother training us any more than they have to!

Sounds like they wanted nothing to do with ordering that part for you. The E7 number posted previously (72GC357) that was said to fit your engine superseded to that new part number 20705596. There's lots of them in stock, though we can only order them in quantities of 12. Goes to show the state of the modern parts counter, turn away that which annoys you or doesn't bring enough money in!

For anyone's future reference, that lifter part number supersedes to 20705596, and is available in Mack's warehouses at the moment. Interesting.

That seems like the correct part number, but it is marked obsolete and not in any dealers' inventories as far as I can see. Neither PAI, Lippert, nor Automann had anything. I saw a few eBay listings, but finding one off a wrecked/scrap truck might be your best bet. I don't know of any differences, but maybe parts from a slightly newer truck would work?

I second FJH, the older steering oil pumps using engine oil is an absolutely awesome design. Having to make sure you use the correct ATF or equivalent on the MP engines is an absolute pain. That also ends up being a pain on cars as well! I've honestly been impressed with the electric power steering my 2016 Ram has, wonder how well the same idea will hold up on semi trucks.

I think most if not all E7 exhaust manifold studs are the same. They may be different when it comes to ASET's, but you should be fine.

No problem. I still have several tubes of graphite we used to keep the cylinders from sticking all the time. It was supposed to be a recall from what I was told, but we never got any under warranty. If anyone actually looks for the switch itself in Impact, it's usually found under Harness, Steering Column, usually named "Wires."

Yeah, I asked our foreman, and it's about what FJH said above: a tow job. Unfortunately with these Volvo fakers, getting anything diagnosed takes Premium Tech Tool, which comes at a Premium Cost in both how much it costs and how strong of a computer you need for it to work half a darn. The ignition itself fails all the time on these, the tumbler and sometimes the actual switch itself. The cluster issues could be the cluster, could be the VECU, could be the ECM. Can't say for sure without being there to diag sadly. Hope you can get some answers soon though!

I hate that I love the colors on the MP engines. The darker red and gray go really well together.

Autocorrect isn't my friend either!

If you can rob it from another motor, I'd recommend trying that. It'll likely be around $300 for the base (comes with filter) from a dealer, and I don't see many aftermarket options that are much cheaper. Part number 25502528 (279GB52M old Mack number). You'll want at least two 9° 1/4" elbows and other brass to run the tubing through it.

I was going to say you may just have a bad starter (MP starters suck, I've replaced several myself), but if you don't have hours showing, you could have something more going on. I've never personally seen something like that so I can't say for certain. My favorite way of testing starters on a road call was having the driver turn the key while I beat the tar out of the starter. Would it have been smarter to check voltage while the key is turned? Probably, but beating a starter was fun and cathartic. I'll ask our foreman for more info to see if he has an idea about an ECU issue.

I didn't think to look yesterday, was focused on the turbo, but your truck did have a VGT filter, same spot that I sent pictures of before. Interesting someone would remove it. I definitely agree in fixing smaller items first and saving the turbo for later, if it works fine enough there's no use in going that much in the hole. About the turbo, I was talking to our shop foreman yesterday about your issues and the rule about selling, and he said he could help us get you the turbo whenever/if you end up doing it.

It's dumb but I don't blame them entirely. The rule was made because someone stole a credit card and had one of our front counter guys order a lot of parts for their truck. Salesperson called many times telling them the parts were here, only to get a call from the bank about a fraudulent charge being made here. Thankfully the salesperson kept record of everything including who called, or it would have been a major investigation into him and our company. Stop, you'll make me blush!

Sadly I was denied the ability to sell out of state without a customer account... Best bet would be your local dealer for the whole turbo. Hope all goes well.

I'm in NC. I'm checking with management to see if it's possible I could sell to someone out of state. I can get one from another location with no freight other than shipping to you. Just waiting to get the ok before I'd go any further.

That's the same story, cost is higher on PAI than OEM... The actuator number on the turboturbos site only crosses to the position sensor and not the VGT itself. Safe to say I doubt Mack ever offered it separately. The controller is also available in OEM warehouses. I'm sorry to hear that about your family situation. I'm no stranger to heartache caused by family illness, lost my dad last year, and my mom had a stroke almost two months ago. Prayers for a swift recovery on his part. If you go the whole turbo route, I'd recommend getting the turbo mount and drain gaskets. I don't have any pulling power at any dealers local to you, so I doubt mentioning me would help at all haha. Maybe if you ask kindly they'd be kind to you. I don't know if I can take an order over the phone here, we've had scammers try it enough that management doesn't like us taking cards over the phone; I'd love to help you out if I could!

I forgot to mention it, but PAI is actually more expensive than OEM?! PAI ETC-8246 is $3,722.65 at cost vs the OEM turbo at $3123.31 at cost. I rounded up the price to account for tax and whatever markup the dealer "graciously" applies. Wow. The OEM turbo is available in warehouses as well, any dealer could get next weekday but with a nasty freight charge.

Perfect, superseded turbo part number is 631GC5176EM10X, and the actuator kit I found online is compatible with with this turbo. Here's the link. I don't know how trustworthy this site is, nor do I know the quality of the part. The turbo itself is not cheap, dealer cost is around $4k... But Nextran in Kansas City, MO shows to have one in stock as of yesterday.

I'm digging a little more to see if it's possible, but so far it appears to be sold with the turbo... I'll update if I find anything different. EDIT: Found a possibility, I'll need a VIN to confirm fitment.

I don't have a lot of experience, but if you're checking the EUP wiring, I'd start at the EUP's themselves. They're on the right hand side of the engine with lines going into the heads above. They're in a high-heat area, so we've seen some wiring getting brittle before. Could also have issues with the EUP/injectors themselves, but you'll want others' opinions over mine for that. As for the VECU, the engine module should be on the RH side of the motor as well, below the heat shields that also cover the EUP's and forward of the air compressor. Here's a diagram from a 2000 RD:

9-5 is a compressor discharge temp sensor fault, 2-9 is combustion air temp sensor, 8-1 and 8-4 are injector faults for their respective cylinders, and 4-9 is your EGR valve code for being blocked most likely.

The truck in our shop didn't have the same complaints, but I feel like at least mentioning one repair we made could be related to your issues. The truck was showing faults for VTG Position Sensor code 4-5, Turbocharger Speed code 6-2, among others. I don't know if the VGT was sweeping correctly before or not, so I can't say if this truck had the same problem or not.