The Heinz

That VIN comes up with the same part number I got earlier, thanks for helping confirm it was right! Looks like Mack has plenty in warehouses right now, so anyone would be able to order it, but no dealers in TN show to have any.

Dealer cost is 522.85, we all know it only goes up from there. A generic quote for a cash customer in our system marks it up to 921.85!!!!

If a 2020 grill will work, the part number would be 20920036, old number 6MF561M2.

The handful of CH trucks on the yard show to come with the grill I posted above despite having the one he's looking for. I can try to hunt down a part today but it depends greatly on how busy I get.

Here's what those two trucks pulled up, P/N 25116711. Mack has them in stock, no dealers in TN have them though. And here's what

EECU and software will probably hold you back; they never share the same EECU numbers. Do yourself a favor and put the correct engine in your truck. We've had several customers of the Eastern European variety that Frankenstein'd their truck with all kinds of different parts to the point that it was nothing but a guessing game as to what parts to get. You will spend more in downtime and labor later down the road if you hodge-podge something together now.

An Allison swap into a truck originally built with a manual is something I have never looked into, nor has the dealership I work for. There's a lot of moving parts in a question like this. I know the bare minimum you would need the correct adapter plates for the flywheel, torque converter bolts, oil cooler setup that depends greatly on application/chassis/transmission, different engine mounts, coolant hoses, shift setup that depends greatly on what Allison you have and truck interior, trans output yoke, yoke nut/bolt, and a lot more. I think it would be more financially friendly to either fix or replace with an identical transmission, Allisons alone are very expensive, not to mention the other parts and the work you'd have to do to get the setup to work.

In my experience, they would give you a VIN or part numbers themselves (if you're lucky) to make an estimate with. We've done the same for truck sales and general changes quite a bit outside of warranty.

I think a '97 would have an Econovance, correct? VMAC I or VMAC II depending on if it was upgraded.

The dealer ought to be able to start an eService case about installing a transverse torque rod. Have them go that route, get a parts list, and see what you can do. It sounds like you need to avoid and ignore that Spring Guy, doesn't sound like he has much when it comes to brains.

Look up TRW part L28HC0001K01, I crossed the original Mack part number to an Automann number, which said it crosses from the TRW number as well. I could not get that to work in a modern TRW number through Mack, but I found a few online sources. Automann didn't have any of these either...

You're absolutely welcome, it's what we're here for.

Good stuff!

I am rusty with Maxitorque transmissions, so hear me out with a handful of salt. This is the seal off the rear bearing cover under Compound Mainshaft for a Feb 1, 1991 - March 16 1995 year break T2180B. Joey can hopefully confirm if these are the same throughout the years. Part number 25623778, in stock at Transource Raleigh, Clinton, Fayetteville, Greensboro, Hickory, Rocky Mount, Salisbury, and Wilmington. Also available at McMahon in Charlotte as of yesterday.

They are a 680B to be specific. According to the rebuild kit lookup on Cummins (new owner of Jacobs), 018678 would be the number for the whole rebuild kit, Mack's number being 4559-18678. In stock in Mack warehouses.

I remember seeing that most of the solenoids I researched for a truck in the shop were available in warehouses. The Econovance itself will likely be unobtanium except for junkyards or parts trucks.

So, take this with a grain of salt, but we've had issues with Weller recently. BIG issues. Brand new Allison remans failing internally and contaminating the engine coolant with ATF, brand new mDrive components that lasted not even a month, all to the point our service department uses them as a last result. You might have suffered an issue similar to us...

Them making you buy all the seals is ridiculous, I've never done that here, even if I'm forced to order 30 nuts instead of 24 (Hino's worse about this than Mack/Volvo is). If there's overstock of a part, it's not my problem, it's warehouse's now.

What about it doesn't fit? Those are good part numbers per your VIN. You can get the complete hood right now, plenty in Mack warehouses; part number 1QM4316M -> 23397375 (Hood) and 82392414 (Spring Assembly) QTY 2.

So the VMAC II retrofit kit (215SB224) is available in Mack warehouses, and by that I mean they show to have a singular kit. It is really expensive.... The OEM supersession of your ECM is utterly unavailable from Mack or all dealers in North America. Unless you want to upgrade to VMAC II, I'd check out Vander Haag's or eBay. There's also a GoECM website I found online, you can either buy one with a lifetime warranty or send yours in to get rebuilt. I don't know how valid or reliable they are though.

Here you go, I managed to find it in eMedia. sb210032.pdf

You're right, I didn't see one in Impact. It may be the early morning brain fog, but do camelback suspensions usually have a transverse torque rod? I can't remember if they do or not.

Current Controlled Rate Shaping. I have a bulletin specifying more I can try to scan here. It will take me a while to do so, busy busy busy.

If you send me the VIN or last 6 of it, I can see what Impact shows your truck having installed. I don't think I've seen a truck without a torque rod, regardless of suspension setup. That might be a case worth taking to Mack, just don't expect them to care. We don't have the Mack that cared about their image anymore.

The WIF sensor could be going bad, especially if it was the bowl type primary filter and was cleaned with brake clean. I saw similar failures in KW T680's; I was new and was taught to clean the bowl with brake clean by the older guys in the shop, turns out that tends to kill the WIF sensor. Live and learn I guess. If it's the bowl type, I think the entire bowl will need to be replaced, I don't think the sensor is separate. You'd want others to tell you more, I can shotgun ideas at you but it would be little more than educated guesses.