The Heinz

We've had some deleted trucks come in, but our service team (of course) didn't realize they were deleted until we looked into them. We didn't do any engine work except one that tricked them (us): the guy's tune killed the ECM and we diagnosed it as such. We didn't replace but instead told him where he could find an aftermarket one and had him buy it. One of our techs installed it for cash on the side after hours if I remember right. I despise emissions systems and frequently talk about the delete process with pickup friends, even deleted the EGR on a 2011 6.7 Cummins, but I can't approve of doing it to a semi. I'd love to see an MP8 running as efficiently as possible to bring back some of the reliability Mack used to be known for, but the amount of trouble you get in for getting caught is horrible. Local guys have declared bankruptcy because of it.

I tried breaking down your old part number and the new, along with a 1997 and a 1996 truck I had a VIN for, and couldn't make a number match. The 1996 and 1997 match with each other, but neither yours or the one online. If you shoot me at least the last 6 of your VIN, I may be able to dig a little deeper with other part numbers. I'm a parts guy for a dealership, I have no reason to do anything malicious with anyone's VIN if that helps ease any doubts.

It's ridiculous how much they cost, I know... If you ever wind up needing another one, I could very well ship you an Automann cross for much, much cheaper.

The guy that posted the original improved ASET upgrade mentioned getting one from a local scrapyard, given getting a brand new one from a dealer like me (and discounting the three pieces heavily) costs around $1k + shipping, I'd vote for the scrapyard route to save money. He also mentioned not needing to replace the cam, which seems logical; to my knowledge the internal EGR the cam performs is similar to the Cummins 24 valve common rail engines, which were extremely reliable. Someone correct me if I'm wrong though.

Just a parts guy, but the oring for the compressor side could be pinched. We also see the CAC hot side pipe going into the turbo fail all the time, we usually replace the boots and clamps with spring loaded types. I only saw this once, but the CAC cold pipe going into the throttle valve had cracked somehow and was causing a decent boost leak.

The customer I mentioned previously never actually went through with the diff swap, it just cost too much money and downtime just to get his RPM's and top highway speed to where he preferred. It's definitely doable especially if you do it yourself or have someone cheaper than a Mack dealer do it. I don't know which you'd rather do/have done: the "ASET delete" or the regear/diff swap. In my opinion, which doesn't hold much weight mind you, giving your engine the ability to breath would probably be the first thing I'd do if I were in your shoes. What I did to get the part numbers for the diffs was create an eService case. They usually suck, but specification questions like this do well with them. I have to have the entire VIN to start one if you wanted to go that route. I unfortunately don't have old books or knowledge on diff part numbers and their gear ratios!

The sensor 22564822 has an o-ring on it, but your expansion tank could have a crack too if it's old/wore out. PAI has no stock, but the OEM is readily available right now. If your local dealer has Automann access, they are much cheaper. Automann expansion tanks are also really good quality, it's about all we use thanks to availability.

Weller Truck Parts is an option for reman transmissions, just be warned that we've had a lot of issues with their transmissions specifically. They were mDrive junk, so I'd hope they could properly reman a manual. I'll dig around a little as I go today to see if I can find anything, can't promise much as we're understaffed, overworked, and underpaid.

We have a customer with a somewhat new to them 2000 RD690 that wanted similar, so I was told to get a quote for different ratio diffs. We ARE a dealership after all, much cheaper in the long run to swap diffs thanks to labor rates. I'd assume you could find some diffs on a wrecked truck for cheap and clean them up before install as a money/time saver.

I'm not well acquainted with "older" Allisons, but if your transmission has a TCM, it could be that. We've seen many failures of newer modules, sometimes even in brand new trucks. If you have one, it's usually found behind the center dash. I'd first try the wiring diag before you sling parts at it.

If you shoot me at least the last 6 digits of your VIN I can see what crosses are out there.

As long as I'm not a CEGR ASET, we'll be fine!

I have to start off by thanking ya'll for recommending PAI to everyone, and me by extension. Right now a super common valve cover gasket for the MP series (22777560) is super-unavailable, but PAI has plenty. I would likely have forgotten to check PAI if I didn't see it constantly mentioned around here. Thanks to you, I have a moderately satisfied service team. PAI is an awesome source I mentally filed under "Another aftermarket website that has iffy quality," but seeing entire overhaul kits recommended by ya'll, I've changed my tone. Another source that has helped us out in a pinch is Automann. Unfortunately, Automann's catalog and ordering process is open only for registered distributors, which my dealer happens to be. I've used them a TON for clamps, sensors, and such that Volvo couldn't be bothered to keep in stock, with little to no returns. The only thing I don't recommend is the CAC boots for MP engines, they for some reason are bigger than needed and blow back off immediately in our experience. I'm not sure what it takes to become a distributor, all I know is we get a higher commission rate when using their parts haha. I've only messed with Lippert a little bit because they rarely have what I needed, but I was told they were a good source for old, "obsolete" parts. They supposedly buy obsolete inventory from OEMS of all kinds, but I only have access to the Mack/Volvo store. Lastly, I would try to avoid Weller if it was an option for you. We've had constant failures of transmissions and transmission control housings on top of difficult warranty processes; they typically don't like to pay labor either. The couple of differentials I've seen haven't returned, but the amount of failures we've seen have made our service department no longer recommend. Sorry if this doesn't exactly fit the forum, but I wanted to show my appreciation by also recommending a couple of other sources, even if they focus on newer trucks. THIS IS NOT AN ADVERTISEMENT OR ATTEMPT TO EARN YOUR BUSINESS!! If you ask for my help, I'll gladly do so, but I'm not here to benefit off the forums. I get my money from Volvo haha.

Sorry to revive a super old thread, but I felt I needed to chime in about this suspension now that it has been offered for several years... Pretty much all of the criticism of this suspension holds true. The V-Rods (the triangular "torque rods" from frame-to-diff) are notorious for failure to the point two separate TPI's were created to "address" the failures. One is about using bronze races on the V-rods, the other is about using a four bolt pattern setup instead of the standard one bolt, which involves REPLACING THE DIFF HOUSING! Yes, the HOUSING, just reuse the internals of the diff silly! We see them a lot on trash trucks, maybe a few dump trucks. Camelback seems to reign supreme for most dumps, concrete mixers, and pumpers in our area. They are probably cheap to install, but they are NOT cheap to repair. Just one V-rod alone costs an average of over $1k! ATRO kits exist for the older models, but the 2020 truck I am creating an estimate for that spurred me to research and post here doesn't have any crosses with any ATRO kits sadly. Maybe someone will find some use with my rant/info dump these many years later, or at the very least it entertains someone.

That's what happens when I learn the wrong vernacular... So many people above me call parts the wrong name I've picked it up as a bad habit. You're right, basic engines are the ones we always order, but you'd think if you can order a completely assembled engine, they'd sell you a short block...

If you shoot me your VIN, I can see if there's anything I can help with. I occasionally see miracles every now and then! Volvo has issues with keeping anything in stock, much less parts that commonly go out. Imagine how you'd feel when the dealer you just bought your brand new truck tells you they issued a recall but parts are at least a month out! Or taking your SCR equipped truck in for an MIL only to learn they updated the DEF Level Sending Unit to require a pigtail that's more than a month out!

You're right, it's the oil supply line. Just be careful with the o-rings on the two nipples on each end, unless you match up with a kit from a parts/hardware store, they only come on the piece themselves. Most of our techs end up requesting them, but I doubt most jobs NEEDED them.

I will say it's been a while since I've quoted a short block for an ETECH or older, most of our customers have been asking for overhauls lately. Maybe there's something I didn't know...

I'll I'd have to find a VIN or part number for one, we don't see ANY E6's here. I know from past research that Mack still makes E7 rebuild kits/short blocks, usually per order. I've used PAI for smaller parts a little bit, Lippert as well. Automann has been the most helpful for me lately.

I completely forgot that the air compressor has coolant lines running to and from, goes to show I'm not that experienced! I don't recall that happening to any trucks in the shop, but we've had a bad air compressor that got misdiagnosed into an entire short block R&R... I'll chime out for now unless someone needs some help with parts...

My job is usually pretty boring, as I'm a shop parts salesman. I exclusively handle parts for our shop "technicians," so I thankfully never have to deal with customers on the front counter. We still have our own frustrations don't get me wrong... We've seen some crazy failures before, from a previous owner running exhaust manifold studs too far into the block, destroying two pushrods, to a roadside service (that Volvo uptime called for the driver) botching a wheel seal job and ruining both spindles, hubs, and brakes. Fun stuff. EDIT: I somehow skipped the part about bad parts people: It can go both ways, but usually leans to bad training on the company's end. My training was being put next to the older guy that was a wealth of knowledge, no actual company training at all. If I didn't have a brain for it, I wouldn't have been able to keep up.

I GREATLY prefer Cummins over any other lookup. It actually makes sense and, like you said, actually has a functioning search. The only issue with Cummins is the Aftertreatment Device section, but that's because the OEM never sends them what device was installed at the factory, so Cummins lists all the available parts. At least Impact will show those parts, but Hino/Isuzu couldn't care less.

Haha, I still respect my elders, I was raised that way. I can't imagine watching a prestigious brand like Mack get dragged into the dirt by a European truck maker. I agree that Impact can be really bad (nowhere near as bad as looking up UD parts, that company is an abomination), and the majority of parts guys are lost most of the time. I like to believe I stand out from them however!

There absolutely are! I found this forum trying to research parts for an older E7 ETECH one time, and kept coming back since. The forum was extremely helpful in giving me info while researching the Jake assembly on a different ETECH. Lots and lots of amazing information here.

Was going to suggest EGR cooler, but that apparently won't be a problem for you (Very smart of you). We've seen oil cooler/side cover failures before on both 11 and 13 liters, that could very well be your issue. I also wouldn't discount the possibility of the head gasket leaking, but we rarely see that at all.