Icehole

Starts fine and runs fine aside from it being gutless. Have to crank a while when it's been sitting for weeks but otherwise it's no different than any other big diesel I've owned or run.

Usually with a dead cylinder it'll be pretty hard to start, especially when cold,, and idle/run bad, at least in my experience

Moved it last night to park for the winter and noticed it cranks "choppy" like it's got less compression in a cylinder or two. Like a waa waa waa wa waa wa. That typical? I've run some equipment that it was just how the starter was. Aside from the low power it starts fine, idles fine, I think. It vibrates the cab, but isn't much worse than the much newer trucks I've run. Little bit of smoke when cold, but nothing unusual. Like last night it was maybe 10* Does take 15-20+ seconds of cranking for the first start if it sits for a while. Was probably last started 3 months ago.

I'm not sure on gradual, I bought it 2 years ago and this is the first load it hauled.

Talking about the fuel aneroid, aka afc?

The info I'm finding is saying 23-25psi max is normal. No idea what the engine is doing, don't have a gauge yet. Fuel Filters are new. No idea if the pyro is correct, I've never run anything with the sensor after the turbo. Dumb place for it.

Ok. Info im finding is 23-25psi max

They are almost new. Have maybe 2 hours, if that, on them.

There's play but I have it that pump is WOT before pedal bottoms out.

55mph is around 1700-1800rpm so don't think it's a governor issue. I got it to almost 65 at one point, just took forever.

Had to haul a few loads in my 90 R Model and quickly realized it's gutless. Has a 400hp E7, 12 speed, top loader rears. All it can do, foot to floor, to hit 55mph on flat road. Any grade it slows quick. Had maybe 15k in the bed, if that, was mix of light topsoil, sawdust and wood bits. Ideas were I should start? It seems to have an exhaust manifold leak at the last cylinder, maybe last 2, but not severe. Can just to say hear it and signs of soot. EGT seems fine I guess, but not sure if the gauge is correct. Highest I saw was maybe 700* Thinking to get a cheap boost gauge to check that, what is normal boost? Otherwise maybe due an overhead, and something is up with the pump? It has about 8000hrs, so shouldn't be tired. I've run several dump truck with 2-3x the hours that pulled well.

Here's mine.

The thing is USPS shipping would be under $20.

Thanks. They sure are proud of shipping. Want $250 for it, almost half is shipping.

T/A is twin axle. There's all the info and a ton of photos on the auction listing. Figured someone near Texass might be interested, why i posted it.

I suppose I can make something. Wouldn't be too worried, but the others have wear, so they're definitely getting used. Fuel tank bottoms got caved in at some point, no idea how they don't leak or how they didn't get ripped off.

No such thing here. There's a truck shop in Anchorage that sells Mack, but it's sort of a side gig. If I needed parts for 5 year old truck they'd probably be ok.

Not sure how to make a link, screenshotted it though. Looks really good shape. Has a 12 speed Mack, not sure why they claim its an Eaton Fuller trans.

Thanks for the info, I need to unhook that. No reason for brake lights to be on with park. If anything just blinds people at night.

Jeez, how long did they use that dash? That's what my 1990 has!

Same kit for E6, E-Tech, ASET per PAI parts.... Sure is frustrating trying to get parts for this truck!

Sure, but there's no reason I can think of. I work in lubricants, so I review lube specs WAYYYY too often.

Sure, just an odd spec. Like it actually makes a difference that it's 20wt vs whatever oil the engine is using. 5w40, 15w40, etc.

Trying to source what I'd call a bumpstop, I think Mack calls it a "suspension stop bracket" for a 1990 R model, 38k rears, camelback. Front driver's side if that matters. Found a 12QK367A, but nit sure if that's correct. I'm not finding a good source for part numbers.

That's an odd spec.