Mack Snow Fighter

Hello, On my 1996 RD-688S, The turn signal switch came apart and fried some wires. So I installed a brand new switch, but it must have blown the fuse. Can someone help me with a fuse diagram for that truck? It has mostly circuit breakers installed instead of fuses. All the actual fuses are good, could it have fried a circuit breaker when it shorted? Thanks for your help

Yes, I use O'Connor.

This is what mine looks like on cylinder #1.

I'm actually out of town now. When I get back I'll pull the line out completely and take a look, I can get pictures then. Maybe we are over tightening that line, resulting in damage.

Hmmm, so now I'm wondering, did they update the lines or something, because the other cylinders that I never replaced have a two piece set up, in other words, you can disconnect the line right at the head, whereas, the line I have in the #1 cylinder the nut is attached to a tube that goes all the way in to the injector, whereas the older ones there is like a 6 inch or so tube that goes in the head to the injector, and a separate line that attaches to that. Hope I am making sense.

The new line is genuine Mack. I think if I had another injector in and tube in hand, I could understand what you are talking about. Why do they make the #1 cylinder different from all the rest?

Hello, On my 95 mack with the EM7 engine, I have a fuel leak right where the injector line screws into the head. Its the #1 cylinder, closest to the front. This one has a different style tube from the others for some reason, and it has been a problem over the years. A couple years ago, I had a leak there after removing an injector, so I replaced the line and it solved the problem. Now its begun to leak slightly. I tried re-sealing the injector, but it still leaks. Any suggestions? Thanks a lot for your help.

Thank you, can't wait to try it!

Got the E.U.P. back on and truck is running fine. Ordered 10 more bolts to do the rest. Correction: The engine is an AMI-335. Going to send the truck to the dealer to delete the idle auto shut down, and they think they might be able to give it more power via flashing the computer. I read completely through the post on how to get more power from these engines. Thought I might as well start with the computer. We have hills here in Maine and seem to never have enough power when plowing snow. We usually run a 6 wheel truck, same engine, on the steeper hills, because it has less dead weight. My 96 mack with the EM7-300 has more guts than the AMI ! I think I know what I need for the turbo, 5 in. exhaust, and injectors, only thing I'm not sure on is the manifold. Will an exhaust manifold from an e7 engine fit? You guys have been awesome. Thanks a lot for the help.

Its a 1995 engine, I think the Jake adjustment might be on the valve cover, I don't know what jake, I suppose I would need to pull valve cover to tell?

Engine is EM7-300 with jake brake.

It is a jake, so the slave piston setting is 15 thousands, and just a regular feeler guage gage will do?

Cam roller looks good, so I will put it back together with new bolts and o rings. And other quick question, On my older truck with an EM7 engine, I did a cam job recently. I didn't have the correct tool/feeler gauge to adjust the jake brake, so for now I just left the jake disconnected. Would it hurt anything to run the jake? I don't want to damage anything. Thank you for your quick response, I really appreciate it!

Hello, Was loaded and running the truck hard when suddenly there was a loud ticking sound under the hood and fuel all over the road. Needed to pull off the road and get the truck towed. Turns out that a unit pump had come out of the block. The one bolt looks like someone would have cut the head off, the other one was broken off about flush. Both studs came out very easily. Nothing seems to be wrong with the unit pump. What is the root cause. Should I just put it back together and see what happens, or should I replace unit pump and injector? Thanks for your help!