T-Mack1

Was looking at those. Would need regular polarity and reverse polarity diodes ( stud anode and stud cathode). 2 each for single phase (4), and 3 each for 3-phase (6), and would have to isolate the plates the studs are mounted too.

Or these https://www.ebay.com/itm/114601767481 (2 for single phase, 3 for 3-phase.) mounted on a heat sink. 100 amps / 800v EDIT: Pin one = inputs, pin 2 is Neg and if modules are mounted side by side, could use bus-bar to tie them together, and same with POS pin 3.

Figured out where the regulator was, thanks to a post in 2023 that Geoff was helping Angelo. Saw the picture of Angelo's 7v unit and we have a similar Leece Neville 14v box on the inner driver's side firewall. Yet another thing to trace wires to-from. And, yes I know we need to get up close and personal to the alternator to figure out the output leads. If you look at the picture of our system (below), you can see the smaller wire going to the alternator, so I assume one of them is the field. You can't see that there is another small one on there too. Plan is to see if the truck runs first. Which means my task next is double check ignition. I have new parts from Brillman just to see if it runs without funny noises. Then go electronic. More crawling around...... Lots to look at .... as I sit here watching it snow. We most likely will convert to modern rectifier. May actually use my Assoc. Degree in electronics and make one on a large heatsink. But, also leave the old one there just for looks.

A friend of mine asked off-line if it could be a Dual-Charge system. In other words, a redundant system to charge Battery A and Battery B separately. We do have two Ammeters and the battery A / Battery B switch on the dash.. Did they do that on some of the fire trucks????

The Leece Neville ALT (100 amp) has 4 leads coming out. (maybe 3-phase plus a ground??) The tag on the ALT has "Rectified" and "Rotation reversible". I would post a pict but I didn't realize I had to be careful on size and used up my limit.

Selenium rectifier like my son's old Honda SL70. Only issue was Honda used the battery to absorb the voltage spikes at high rev's and that would boil the battery water/acid away. Cheap regulator. Only issue was if the water was gone, you would send 18 volts to the 6v light bulbs. Our ALT is 100A per the build info. On the tag on it, it says Rectified, so I was thinking it was internally rectified and externally regulated. Also, when we checked for POS or NEG ground, hooking up the battery as NEG grd, had a big current draw. Swapped leads to POS grd and everything was normal. I was thinking it was a Alt/rectifier/regulator issue. Now I'm going to have to think a bit..... it's only been 40 years since my electronics training..... Mind like a steel trap.... very rusty.

Messaged you a picture of the square finned thing.

When I looked over the generic wiring diagram, I noticed that Mack uses 2 pole gauges. YAY!!!!.... easy to convert. So far, it looks like the biggest hurdle will be the Leece Neville alternator (Orig equip per Mack museum info) and the square finned block thing that I think is a regulator. Need wiring pin-outs for both. As for the heater, No heater in the cab and not sure it had one as it's an open cab truck.

Hi Joe. I tried this GM HEI conversion on my ONAN house generator. I was tired of the condensers only lasting two years due to the heat from being mounted on top of the engine. In the process of doing it, I found out there are several types of HEI modules, and took buying 3 to get the right one. It worked for a while but failed. The little solid wire leads on the resistor did not like the vibration. So, just changed type of condenser from the standard electrolytic to an "Orange Drop" type of same value, which will out last me and maybe even my grandson. note: the reason the points go bad is because the condenser starts to go bad and the points start to arch. Another note, there is no reason that the condenser needs to be inside the distributor, It can be remotely mounted away from the heat, within reason. (2-3 feet).

After getting the truck running, the plan is go Electronic Ignition. Brillman sells the kits. Both Positive ground and Negative ground. I did talk to Doug at the Mack Museum yesterday and starter will work correctly, both POS ground or Neg ground. Also after I got our Federal S6B siren running and found it also didn't care about polarity, asked my friend that use to build race engines and is a electronic guru ( like breaking his Harley CAN bus data stream and making a little display to show the data), the reason is both are NOT permanent magnetic DC motors. So plan is to go negative ground so we can get new accessories.

First, thanks to the Edelbrock family/team for making an air cleaner that is sort of decent looking on an antique Mack (note the first picture in the thread, we did not get an air cleaner with the truck). I removed the Edelbrock tag and made a plate to mount a front hub emblem on. Had to make a slip sleeve to take up the difference of the air cleaner and the 4 inch cast aluminum intake piece. Hose clamp tightens the slip sleeve on the intake. Next, some may notice, some might not. Jack and I have a diesel exhaust manifold on our Gasoline engine. It came that way.

Barry, Is there going to be a update anytime soon? Tom M.

Getting it out of the left side of the B-model was interesting. Would have made a good viral video, LOL!

Trying to load after picture but having issues. Apparently I've hit my limits. Darn.

Carb before.