T-Mack1

Morris Me, Are you the father & son Youtuber's that have a two B model fire trucks, where at least one of which is a B21?

Some tv show/or YouTube video I watched a few months ago had a hydraulic pump for the steering that somehow was mounted to the back end of the generator. I always wondered if one of those new electric assist units they make for custom cars could be fitted.

I guess I was spoiled. Up until January '25, I worked at the Mack factory. If a truck bleed down over night it was looked at with a fine tooth comb. Actually an electronic air leak down tester, and sometimes a sniffer which is actually a extremely directional microphone and a headset. I forget the spec, but 0.3 psig in five minutes sounds familiar as the limit. And that would be with air brakes applied (bracket thing holding pedal down). Many pass with no leaks at the test. Note: a 0.3psig leak would take approx 36 hours to go from 130 psi (average compressor cutoff on new trucks) to zero psig. Although the PPV (pressure protection valve) shuts off the accessories at 90psig, so it may take longer.

Found out my brother Jack also has one. Question: Does anyone have a picture of one of the Huskie chips??????

Reminder, you might also check for significant air leaks. When our Areo-Quip line to the brake treadle went (internal lining cracked), we couldn't build pressure. Replaced it and now we build pressure quick. Still have some kind of leak as it bleeds down if a few hours.

https://www.restorationspecialties.com/ I know the owner, Jeff Mihalko. Good guy. I know him from the minibike reunions he had on the property for years. The company was started by his late father, Dave.

Jack and I plan on being there. I've have been doing some volunteering work at the museum. They are selling some bins of excess parts and brochures to help fund running the museum.. Also some wheels & tires.

My brother jack and I were there. Got to talk to a lot of people. It was a debate who talked more. me or him.

Not sure if this should be here, or under electrical or in the wiki section. Attached are two fire truck wiring diagrams I got from the Mack Historical Museum the other week at one of their Volunteer Saturdays. Both have dual distributors and dual starter buttons. One appears to have the second Ammeter on the dash, the other diagram has it at the pump panel. One is harder to read. 8MR5416_B85, B95, B125_ENF707_Firetruck_Dual-Ign_Dual-Ameter.pdf 8MR59006_B85,95,125F_Fire-Truck_Pumper-Ameter(1960).pdf

Our '57 B Model has it on right side (passenger side), out side of frame rail, slightly behind the front axle. You can see the oil pan in the back ground of the picture. Modern Mack's also have it on the front frame rails (at least until Jan 2025 when I retired). Normally left side, but some have it on both L & R rails and one is usually hidden to counter thief and resale of frames with modified VIN's.

Not a dumb question. We don't have a generator. We have an Alternator. They make AC voltage so it needs to be converted to DC and that is done with a rectifier. Although many generators make AC, automotive ones generally make a pulsating DC so no need to convert. The pulses of DC go into the battery and that smooths it out so you have steady voltage. And, the question many people ask, what's the difference between them? Generators have magnets in them. Some of them, big magnets that do all the work, some small magnets that excite a voltage on the parts of the gen to make a voltage that then gets spun to amplify and get the desired voltage. An alternator doesn't have magnets. It uses two wire coils, one spinning , one fixed. By putting voltage on one coil, you can get the desired voltage on the other. By varying the input voltage you can control the output power to get the desired amount. Which is better???? Both have good points. In the automotive world, a generator will create voltage even if the battery is dead as a door nail, where a alternator needs a voltage to start making voltage. A vehicle with a generator can be push started with no voltage on the battery and will run. An alternator vehicle needs a tiny bit a voltage so it won't work on a totally dead battery . A generator charges at a fixed rate, where an alternator has a variable charge rate, so will charges the battery faster. At idle, a generator usually drops in voltage (lights dim) where on a alternator, you can vary the input and get more output at idle/low RPM's. NOTE: : Since energy doesn't just come from nowhere, the energy to get to the desired voltage output is from what ever is spinning the generator (Gas, diesel, Hydro etc etc.). That's why, once you get a vehicle with an alternator running by jump starting it, it can make voltage.

Our '57 B-model firetruck tractor had service only rear chambers, so we upgraded. Well...... when I was setting up to start taking old chambers off, I put the carboard down so I didn't have to lay in the stones. Then laid out my tools and crawled under. AND THEN SOMETHING CAUGHT MY EYE ON DRIVE SIDE OF AXLE HOUSING. A black rat snake was staring at me. He was somewhere around 5 or 6 feet long.... I sent him on his way out into the woods.

Finally for this update, Installed the solid-state 3-Phase rectifier to replace the selenium one. Mounted it to a piece of aluminum and for added measure, added an addition small heat sink to the back. It's mounted on the inner fender. The B-model fender insert hides it well. Plan is to fake out that we still have the old one hooked up, for looks. Note: we and going to be rewiring the truck real soon, so forgive us using the old wires for now.

Next, got some new hood emblems. old & new pict's. Still need B85 and Thermodyne. the passenger Dog is a reproduction we got at Macungie

Latest updates. We now have spring brakes. Bought a QRV (Quick release Valve) with balance line, and since the original "service only" rears chambers were "30", got 30/30 spring brakes. And, a used park brake valve that tests ok, popping out at 45 psig. Yes, I broke down and used plastic DOT air lines. And new rubber hoses all the way around.