T-Mack1

Great minds think the same. I just figured out the Youtube thing and edited them in. It wasn't too hard.

Here's an up date on my Brother and my B85F that was once part of Boston Fire Dept. It lives, moves and stops!!!! Sunday 3/9/2025, Jack and I got it running on a temp gas tank and got it to move around. Videos are my brother Jack driving. Note, I boobie-trapped him by having the auxiliary shift lever in neutral. He figured it out. And, even though he has been driving manual trans cars for over 50 years, he never driven a truck with non-scynornized trans before. Truck-wise, it builds air pressure to normal levels and the compressor kicks on and off where it should. The battery charges. Oil pressure is good. And clutch seems normal for the 2 times we drove it up & down his 700 foot driveway. On Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/100009041979074/videos/538239552636001 https://www.facebook.com/100009041979074/videos/619931730934531 On YouTube.: Part 1 and below Part 2 Part 2:

In the last 14 years, I don't remember seeing any spoke wheels, and definitely in the last 7, while I was in the Quality Group, I can say have not seen any spoke wheels on any trucks at the Macungie assembly plant. Some strange big ass planetary hubs and associated big wheels, but no spokes.

24" is still made as a Euro spec tire. Last year Mack Trucks had a customer ordered trucks with a ultra duty axle that was imported from Volvo Europe and the only wheel available that fit the hub was a 24". BUT..... when I did the Quality Audit on the truck, I didn't look to see if it was tube type or not. Sorry. What stood out was the customer ordered White wheels and they only could get gray rims. The factory doesn't repaint the rims, so a Quality gig.

Yea, this thread was drifting off the RPM limiter and carb question. But, it help me understand that having a login only means you can do threads, and have a limited amount of attachments. So, I paid for the lifetime account and now, watch out........ pictures will be coming. Why...... because I figured out how the limiter on the EN707C (ENF707C??) works and took pictures. Plan to post pictures and if size allows short video so others understand too.

Was looking at those. Would need regular polarity and reverse polarity diodes ( stud anode and stud cathode). 2 each for single phase (4), and 3 each for 3-phase (6), and would have to isolate the plates the studs are mounted too.

Or these https://www.ebay.com/itm/114601767481 (2 for single phase, 3 for 3-phase.) mounted on a heat sink. 100 amps / 800v EDIT: Pin one = inputs, pin 2 is Neg and if modules are mounted side by side, could use bus-bar to tie them together, and same with POS pin 3.

Figured out where the regulator was, thanks to a post in 2023 that Geoff was helping Angelo. Saw the picture of Angelo's 7v unit and we have a similar Leece Neville 14v box on the inner driver's side firewall. Yet another thing to trace wires to-from. And, yes I know we need to get up close and personal to the alternator to figure out the output leads. If you look at the picture of our system (below), you can see the smaller wire going to the alternator, so I assume one of them is the field. You can't see that there is another small one on there too. Plan is to see if the truck runs first. Which means my task next is double check ignition. I have new parts from Brillman just to see if it runs without funny noises. Then go electronic. More crawling around...... Lots to look at .... as I sit here watching it snow. We most likely will convert to modern rectifier. May actually use my Assoc. Degree in electronics and make one on a large heatsink. But, also leave the old one there just for looks.

A friend of mine asked off-line if it could be a Dual-Charge system. In other words, a redundant system to charge Battery A and Battery B separately. We do have two Ammeters and the battery A / Battery B switch on the dash.. Did they do that on some of the fire trucks????

The Leece Neville ALT (100 amp) has 4 leads coming out. (maybe 3-phase plus a ground??) The tag on the ALT has "Rectified" and "Rotation reversible". I would post a pict but I didn't realize I had to be careful on size and used up my limit.

Selenium rectifier like my son's old Honda SL70. Only issue was Honda used the battery to absorb the voltage spikes at high rev's and that would boil the battery water/acid away. Cheap regulator. Only issue was if the water was gone, you would send 18 volts to the 6v light bulbs. Our ALT is 100A per the build info. On the tag on it, it says Rectified, so I was thinking it was internally rectified and externally regulated. Also, when we checked for POS or NEG ground, hooking up the battery as NEG grd, had a big current draw. Swapped leads to POS grd and everything was normal. I was thinking it was a Alt/rectifier/regulator issue. Now I'm going to have to think a bit..... it's only been 40 years since my electronics training..... Mind like a steel trap.... very rusty.

Messaged you a picture of the square finned thing.

When I looked over the generic wiring diagram, I noticed that Mack uses 2 pole gauges. YAY!!!!.... easy to convert. So far, it looks like the biggest hurdle will be the Leece Neville alternator (Orig equip per Mack museum info) and the square finned block thing that I think is a regulator. Need wiring pin-outs for both. As for the heater, No heater in the cab and not sure it had one as it's an open cab truck.

Hi Joe. I tried this GM HEI conversion on my ONAN house generator. I was tired of the condensers only lasting two years due to the heat from being mounted on top of the engine. In the process of doing it, I found out there are several types of HEI modules, and took buying 3 to get the right one. It worked for a while but failed. The little solid wire leads on the resistor did not like the vibration. So, just changed type of condenser from the standard electrolytic to an "Orange Drop" type of same value, which will out last me and maybe even my grandson. note: the reason the points go bad is because the condenser starts to go bad and the points start to arch. Another note, there is no reason that the condenser needs to be inside the distributor, It can be remotely mounted away from the heat, within reason. (2-3 feet).

After getting the truck running, the plan is go Electronic Ignition. Brillman sells the kits. Both Positive ground and Negative ground. I did talk to Doug at the Mack Museum yesterday and starter will work correctly, both POS ground or Neg ground. Also after I got our Federal S6B siren running and found it also didn't care about polarity, asked my friend that use to build race engines and is a electronic guru ( like breaking his Harley CAN bus data stream and making a little display to show the data), the reason is both are NOT permanent magnetic DC motors. So plan is to go negative ground so we can get new accessories.

First, thanks to the Edelbrock family/team for making an air cleaner that is sort of decent looking on an antique Mack (note the first picture in the thread, we did not get an air cleaner with the truck). I removed the Edelbrock tag and made a plate to mount a front hub emblem on. Had to make a slip sleeve to take up the difference of the air cleaner and the 4 inch cast aluminum intake piece. Hose clamp tightens the slip sleeve on the intake. Next, some may notice, some might not. Jack and I have a diesel exhaust manifold on our Gasoline engine. It came that way.

Barry, Is there going to be a update anytime soon? Tom M.

Getting it out of the left side of the B-model was interesting. Would have made a good viral video, LOL!

Trying to load after picture but having issues. Apparently I've hit my limits. Darn.

Carb before.

Ok, we took carb off to check intake for critters, and only found some dropping under the carb. As if they visited the card and left and couldn't get past the throttle butterfly plates. And we freed up the throttle linkage and most likely the dropping fell straight down. Carb has been cleaned and painted. I also figured out how the RPM limiter works and took pictures. I will post something.

Thanks!! I may go do some work on it tomorrow as the weather here on East side of Pa may get to 50 degrees.

I uploaded a fuse list in another topic (PDF fie). The folded up list under the pie-plate (triangle cover thingy) use to be almost a random listing. So my buddy and I sorted them so we could quickly correct issues on the "Cab" line when I was a line Flex-Repair person. But...... I know 2011 thru 2016 fuses were the same. Not sure about 2009.

2011 to 2011 emission should be same. Not sure about 2010 to 2011. I vaguely remember that 2012 was the year of an emission change. But, for the MP8into your truck you will need the ECU reprogrammed. If you use the ECU that came with the MP8, then you will need the rest of the truck reprogrammed as the VIN/chassis is in the different computers that run the truck.

Low pressure warning should come on at 60 psig, The valve should pop between 45 and 30 psig. The way you have a tiny bit of tine to get off the road before the brakes lock up.