BronsonA2150

What’s the difference there?

Joe, is that vin you posted for a sleeper truck? The one in your picture maybe? I’m still needing to get mine cleaned up. I don’t see the piece I have circled on the breakdown that Heinz posted. Wondering if it’s supposed to be there? Surely the exhaust isn’t supposed to come out on the inside of the passenger side air bag is it?

…?

I put an exterior filter on my Freightliner that really helped keep grain trash out beeswings and bean hulls and what not. Can’t really tell what this is on Raney’s website. Does this go across the whole top of the outside firewall? Here’s a picture of what mine looks like

Seems like mack and John Deere are about the only 2 companies I can think of that really didn’t have their engines in anything besides what they built. Kind of a shame since it seems the L10 Cummins was a flop from what I’ve heard and think the e6/e7 could have been a good fit for an alternative. Just a thought I had. I enjoy reading about management history of these companies and deals that happened behind closed doors

Also, do these seals need to go in the other direction? This is how my old ones were in but after reading an old thread on here it sounds like maybe the lips needs to go towards axle?

Another Mack question. Never seen a setup with this extra race either. Looks like I can buy just the seal quite a bit cheaper than the set that comes with both. Does that race with the roll pin need replaced with the seal or can it be reused?

is there a procedure on how far to screw that bottom cap in? I would assume you need to go far enough to get the thrust bearing to contact the kingpin but how far past that?

took everything apart. Just wasn’t sure what that was on the bottom if it was a nut or plug or what.

Thanks. Yep that’s how we did my Freightliner years ago. For some reason no one wants to hold the drift with their hands 😂

First time doing Mack kingpins on my 94 ch613. What came in my pai kit looks a little different than what’s in my truck. Mainly wondering if this piece with the cross in it in the bottom is to be reused? Is it threaded in or just pressed/drove in? And wondering if I’m ready to drive the old ones out once that bottom piece is out? Only ones I’ve messed with are the ones with the tapered pin and have heard of guys trying to drive those out and forgetting to take those tapered pins out first 😁

Well I haven’t done much interchanging myself. But to my understanding there isn’t really much to it as long as firing order and rotation is the same as well as mounting side I’m assuming. For instance I know Cummins and IH pumps are interchangeable you just have to add some hardware to the front of the Cummins pump to go on an IH where case and John Deere do not go onto IH with much ease. I’m just unaware what is on the front structure of a Mack mechanical as I’ve never had one off

They’re the only 2 that use inline pumps that mount on the right side of engine I can think of and it appears they’re both right hand rotation. Just not sure how the drive and front structure mounting are on both. Don’t ask me why I’m asking! 😁

Possibly but hard to tell. I know previous owner converted it to hub pilot from budd but that’s all I know

Well I’m guessing if you guys don’t know there’s no way Mack will. Last I talked to my closest dealer I can’t remember what about but I could tell they knew virtually nothing about this era of trucks. Not a real big deal either way, just figured I’d set it and/or record it if possible

They turn off instantly

Need to have my speedometer fixed so I can have a working odometer. Can you plug into these to get actual mileage? It has vmac 1 I believe

We talked about that also. Will try that tomorrow

No, air. Also why is my text so dark? Can’t even hardly read it

Just had an occasional clunk start in my 94 Mack with Eaton super 10 and Mack rears. When it does it it’s a consistent clunk every second or so and only does it under partial throttle. Goes away at no throttle or full power. Not sure what can be checked externally but don’t see bolts in flywheel housing missing or loose and throw out bearing, input shaft etc. appear fine what I can see. It really sounds like something in transmission area causing the sound but won’t rule out anything in driveshaft or rear ends. All u joints and driveline bearings feel fine. One thing I wondered is I recently had 4 new drive tires put on rear axle and front drive axle has used tires. Could there be enough of a height difference there to cause an issue? I also drained a little oil out of transmission and didn’t see any filings or chunks of metal. Anything else that could be checked?

Update if anyone cares to know. Found the valve/diverter whatever you want to call it while doing overhead. Stuck out like a sore thumb. Anyways I adjusted the clamp and it made a world of difference. I always like to set heater valves like a choke on a gasser so the lever isn’t quite all the way to the cool side before it fully closes. That way you know for sure it’s closed all the way. Kinda dumb, it appears they put it on the return side instead of the hot side. Would think hot side would be a better idea

Yes that’s what I’m talking about. These look kind of unique though. The ones holding my air duct in have a tall cage almost Eiffel Tower looking. Pretty sure I could find the sweat shop that builds them before any of the yay whos at our local Napa could figure out what I’m talking about 😂

Anyone have a breakdown they could share? I need some captured nuts for the air duct and climate control panel. Would like to price some panels that are broken also

wow. One for my cat was $2-$300 I’m pretty sure. It looks like nearly identical to this one I do

I had a guy send me the procedure from the book. Sounds like .080” for mine if that sounds right? Mine is a 94 e7 350 horsepower. And yes mine is the 680. While we’re on that subject, these are horrendously poor performing. That’s part of the reason I’m tearing into it as it kinda sounded like only half were working. Haven’t gotten that far to troubleshoot that yet but noticed this gap between rocker stud and the trigger piston. This rocker is at full motion. Is that large of a gap normal? Only other one I’ve messed with is one on a 3406 mechanical and if I recall it has a lot closer contact. Like it would push the trigger piston in flush with the housing. If that’s not normal I could see that affecting performance