burnstransport

I got a good laugh out of that one lol

Yeah I'm getting a kick out of it for sure! They sure aren't built for beauty or for speed but I gotta admit I'm starting to get attached to this old tank of a truck

Wow that is BEAUTIFUL :D

Thank heavens I'm driving a DM model, would hate to get rolled over with a U and explain to the troopers what two fat chicks were doing with a short slim guy like me :D How new does mine need to be to have the self-righting option?????????

OK So I did some research in this forum about the puff limit valve and took a closer look on the engine and found a 1/4" air line between the intake manifold and what must be the reversing relay was rubbing against the top of the firewall and had a large hole rubbed through it. When I started the engine I didn't feel any pressure escaping but said "what the heck, lets change it anyway" and WOW did it bring that puppy to life! The dog growls now at low RPM and I can see smoke out the passenger mirror and the pyrometer will climb an extra 50 F on a hill (close to the 800 - 825 F mark) and the water temp moves towards the 190 F mark also now. I can now understand why they call it a MAXIDYNE Still loses a few mph on a hill at 65 mph but with the torque curve I've seen i can expect that much, just happy it will actually PULL when leaving the stop lights! For the first time since I've started driving this truck in 2007 it actually has some BARK Thanks for all the great posts in this forum and hope this helps someone else!

OK that makes sense, thanks Vinny!

OK, so I've been looking through the different pics online and I'm wondering what really is the difference between a U model and a DM model. I'm sure it's a pretty simple explanation but i can't figure out what exactly they are, after seeing enough pics the differences are pretty slim. I've seen lots of DM models with a sheet metal cab but also lots of DM models with the fiberglass nose like the U models have so I'm really lost what the difference is, just wondering. Thanks in advance for the explanation.

Agreed, whenever you take a clutch out for a throw out bearing ALWAYS replace the clutch linings and pressure plate. As my friend always used to say "if you don't plan to do it right, plan to do it AGAIN" This rings especially true when going through the labor of separating a engine and transmission. Most any local engine machine shop in your area can steer you in the right direction for your application. Shop around and get a few different options before committing to anything.

Pretty straight looking truck. Is that factory A/C I spied on the pic of the motor ??????

I was just at a warehouse last week that had about half a dozen of those old school wheel chocks chained to the building's loading dock area, I didn't realize they were that old. And to think I threw away two complete sets of those old school reflectors when I bought my friend's truck and cleaned out his old shop . . . . . . like they say, .live and learn

Funny how sometimes we overlook the simplest solution because the "doomsday" scenario is so engraved in our thought process Glad that both doomsday and actual repairs together were still under a cool $50 To paraphrase a popular ad campaign Truck repair $34 Lesson learned (same $34) Truck back on road . . . . . . . . PRICELESS

Yep Big Brother is trying to "help" you by "helping you out the door" . . . . . . . so much truth to this analogy!

LOL More cushion for the pushin It's a U model / DM thing!!! Most wouldn't understand

Our 93 DM690SX leans to the driver's side as well, I was told it's because in it's former life it was a truck for riding alongside the pavement grindings conveyor and that's why it leans so hard but maybe it's just a DM thing, would make sense after almost 20 years with the cab being offset. Ours has 58K rears so the grindings conveyor argument is hard to stomach, esp. since the lean is WAY more pronounce in the cab not the rear frame rails. And yes we replaced our cab mounts a year and a half ago with no change. And they DEF needed to be replaced!

"Antique" can be considered a very gray area. Here in New Hampshire if you register something as "Antique" it's my understanding that the registration is MUCH chepaer, along with insurance, because you are legally only allowed to drive the vehicle to a "antique car show" or to a "place of repair" for work to be done. No tooling around at the soda hop on a warm Friday night or, in the case of a truck, hauling a load of dirt or piece of equipment. Even ordinary pleasure riding is not really allowed, technically (or so I was told at my town hall years ago). Talk to your local state police CMV enforcement unit before you find yourself in a roadside inspection with a big orange sticker on your driver's side window. Antique registration may not cut it, but perhaps private (not commercial or apportioned) plates may be allowed with appropriate "NOT FOR HIRE" lettering accompanying your name and home town on the vehicle. Around here over the years I've heard stories of guys hauling a bobcat or load of dirt in their company vehicles, pull into a weigh station and when asked where they were headed tell the inspector "headed to camp, gonna do some landsacaping this weekend" and told "you're now private use, head on out". Rules vary from place to place so ask a few different sources to be sure, especially if you plan to travel out of your immediate area.

Love those old 2-cyl diesels, go ahead and drop 4 plow bottoms in third gear into some wet soil and listen to that ol' girl "BARK" ( but never stall ) !!!!!

My hat goes off to you veterans

Where did you find the cowl board and what was the price?

Would an old mechanical oil pressure gauge work? If not where would I find a liquid filled gauge?

Took a closer look at everything this evening and it seems the pedal opens the throttle lever all the way to an adjustable throttle stop (set screw). Does anyone have advice on the proper way to adjust that throttle stop? I'm wondering if somehow along the line somebody tried to throttle back the engine to keep the drivers from getting into trouble with speed since the truck belonged to a large trash fleet originally. The governor says BOSCH on the casting and there is a MACK reman tag on the fuel rack if that makes any difference.

Well there is half an inch of space between the floor boards and the accelerator pedal when pushed down all the way against the "spring lever" on the governor shaft with the engine not running so I think the linkage is in the right spot but maybe it needs to be adjusted more. When I tightened it down was while the engine was not running and the governor lever all the way back against the engine brake switch. Should it tightened down and adjusted in a different manner?

The linkage was a little loose on the pump shaft, I tightened it and noticed a SMALL improvement, we'll have to send it out to the diesel shop to get the rest figured out. Thanks for the advice!

I have changed some of the pedal linkage parts but I've never thought to check the "clamp" at the end of the pump shaft, I'll take a look at that. As for checking pump pressure we don't have any fuel injection tools, that's something we'd probably send to the shop for. Thanks for the advice I'll let you know what I find.

Those DMs with 58K rears and 24.5 rubber sure are good for hauling loads but not so friendly on the checkbook when it's time to buy new shoes lol

Those DMs with 58K rears and 24.5 rubber sure are good for hauling loads but not so friendly on the checkbook when it's time to buy new shoes lol