beatngu

I would like to repower the B model with the 318 out of my r700. I have read what I could find on the subject and it is apparent cooling could be an issue and it would be a tight squeeze. Does anybody have pointers on this one? Will the 318 mount to the 20 speed already in the B or should I just use the 15 speed fuller already mated to it seems how the 20 speed isn't made for that kind of power? Any pointers would be great, I have spent close to $7500 on 2 junk trucks over the past 3 years so I need to try and build at least one with potential.

So I started the process of pulling heads off my B. Firdt one is off and it has a multilayer steel gasket with a little separation but nothing major. Does anybody have a part number for the gaskets? The serial number for The engine was ground off at some point so is there another number I can use to identify it?

Well I have some tires coming for the R700 and it is almost time to put it back on the road. I have been looking into fuel rack adjustment videos to try that in the spring, there is an occasional knock on the right side in the exhaust when it is cold which is the side that smokes. This thing loves to loose fuel prime, so new fuel lines/ fittings will be another task this season. Someone suggested using shellac to seal a waterpump, not sure if that would work on the fuel pump. The previous owner put new guts in the fuel pump so that may even be the issue. Let me know what you think, here is a short video from a little while back. r700 cold start

Looking for half decent 11r24.5 tires, drive tread. need a set of 4 if possible, the cheapest I have been able to find are in the $1100 range. Located in Peru, NY will travel within a few hours. 518 five 69 6nine74

I have seen 2 of the mechanical gauge cables in the engine compartment but can not find the hook up anywhere on the engine for it, would it be on the transmission? Fuller RTO 15 speed

Well some of my gauges do not work on the wrecker. I do have oil pressure voltmeter, air pressure and speedometer. My temperature, tach and fuel gauge does not work. not too worried about the fuel gauge as that one should be a simple fix. I do not know where anything hooks up on the old detroit for these gauges, can't find a diagram or schematic by far. My tach and speedo are integrated, and this motor may not be original to the truck any ideas?

I still have the B, that will be a long term project from the looks of things. VIN on this I believe was R773ST1957, don't know if it was a tandem tractor at one point in time. The air cleaner did look pretty funky to me, is it just upside down? That thing does roar pretty good, tops out at about 60 but it has 24.5" tires on it, not sure what it had from the factory. Fun little truck, it was indeed $3500 but after DMV fees ($592) and then insurance (full collision on 5K value $312) There is not a whole lot left in the bank account. Today I am working on the signal lights, none of them work.

Well I came across a truck on craigslist, one thing led t another and it is now mine. On the road at that, although it did cost a pretty penny. 1970 R700 with a 8V71 Detroit and 10 speed roadranger. almost 465K miles but it runs excellent.

I figured it was from sitting, has been stuck like that since I got it. Field life was hard in the past 10 years, but I will try some of the pro-tips tomorrow.

Well after finding the right wiring diagram, making a handful of new cables and lots of trial and error... My truck now starts with the push button in the cab WOOO! I put all new airlines and brake cans on the rear axles and the truck will build 120 PSI in the tanks. So my nest task is getting the compound unstuck. Not sure what range it is stuck in but it will not come out. I would try the whole pry until it gives method but something tells me there is a better way. I can see a metal rod tht moves with the shifter in front of the transmission, and someone suggested getting a long bar and trying to tap on that... any ideas would be great! Also another small thing, my shutters are seized pretty good. I have them off the truck and sprayed them many times with pb blaster and "knock'er loose" with no success.

IF you happen to be scooting through VT here is something on Craigslist http://burlington.craigslist.org/cto/4535486277.html Also this a '52 single axle dump http://burlington.craigslist.org/cto/4550522380.html

There was plenty of third part push back when I bought my truck, we will see who gets the last laugh. My project will need much work as well but that is part of the fun. One thing that I did when I got mine is bought a decent set of wrenches (7/16 to 1-1/2) and a 1/2" drive socket set... have used them every day one way or another!

Wi you be around tomorrow? By fault of junk trucks I have tomorrow off. Off the top f my head I am looking for a driver side seat, fenders, brake cans and a tachometer

Well I finally ran into a real problem. The air compressor is pushing oil into the air tanks. I am going to swap the compressor off the spare motor and hopefully that one is good. Other than an air leak from the wiper assembly the tanks will build 90 PSI.

whereabouts are you located? I can think of a few odds and ends missing from mine. I live up by Plattsburgh... can't be too far from you.

I got it, the spring closest to the cab was stuck in the "up" position. Now it idles like a champ! http://youtu.be/Hb1W4fv0a2w

Excellent, will do. If the rain lets up, that will be my task for tomorrow. Would there be a replaceable gasket after taking that cover off or just Use some silicone/ make one with gasket material?

There is some sort of fuel shutoff on the line coming from the filter to the high pressure pump. By cutting some of the fuel flow, the engine will stay at safe RPMs and it idled on its own for maybe 30 seconds. Any thoughts on that scenario?

I have another fuel pump sitting on my spare 711, which would be much easier on the wallet