Vladislav

Wonder what was the origin of its body? Thick steel put together with rivets. Looks very massive and steady overall.

When I was fixing that setup I brought the shaft to machine shop and they cut the ends with lathe. Barely could remove the rust completely since there are threads for flange nuts at the ends and you can't make the shaft OD less than the threads since the saddles wouldn't pass the threaded portions. Than for repairing the saddles, actually - brass bushings (those were bronze originally) I had to purchase a piece of brass round stock about 100mm/4" OD and 400mm/16" long. Which cost some $$. And than a lathe man cut four bushings out of it to the size of the machined shaft. Also you need seals installed into the saddles at the inner side and there are wear rings pressed onto the shaft the seals work against. Those were rusty too which was the initial reason of all the damage. So I had to fabricate them either. I gave them to halvanic shop and they were plated chrome to survive long. So all in all that was quite a story.

Or a straight round drift or a screwdriver to put into the washer hole but deep for washer thickness only. Than try to work as a lever, possibly hitting the tool by hammer at its side.

A drill bit to cut its blades into and try to move?

This is what that looked like back in the day.

Those brearings were also grease filled. At least that's what I have in my NR-model of 1945. Jack shaft end caps (removable flanges) have extra seals fit inside which separate ends of the axle housing tubes from the bearings cavity and gear oil can't go there.

Definitely an old Mack rear bogie. 10 bolt carrier mounting pattern. Off an L-model or early B-model. Had those "elephant ears" attached to the chassis and the trunnion brackets attached to them. By the bolts which were cut by torch. My guess the only way is to check out junk yards with really old Mack stuff. But those trunnion axles tend to be rusty where they (are supposed to) spin in bronze bushings due to long gone seals. So if even the right setup would be found there are very high chances on need of heavy rebuild of the shaft ends and the bushings. I've done that for my truck.

Tom, it sounds like you just didn't tell that ferrule was made of gold. By its look it could really be. Otherwise I have no idea on the amount of efforts you put into location of it.

Happy B-day Heinz!

I've driven over that bridge in 2018. From Maryland to Virginia Beach. That was a matter of interest. My plan was to reach Keystone Truck and Tractor Museum and when I saw so long bridge on the map I resolved to take that route. Very impressive no doubt. I parked at the view point parking lot near the entry and saw a storm upcoming in the sea. So figured to not wait long. Had no idea on how the crossing could be dangerous. Expected for that to be safe being on a public road. And I was with a rental SUV, not a truck. Hit hard wind when over the bridge but that seemed normal for such a place. Reached the other coast before the rain. Sorry to hear about the crash and the driver's death.

Chassis booklet says 33.94 wide at the rear end and CL/RW2 keeps the same figure. R-models and its family is 33.37 and so on around the figure depending on the thickness of the steel. Good point indeed, CH/CX accomodated 6 in-line engines only. Mack or MP8/Volvo in later years.

I've taken apart and overhauled/restored two water pumps - for Lanova and for E6-350. Provided all the works with basic shop tools. You take the assembly in halves than take the rotor off the shaft using a suitable puller than pull the shaft with both bearings to the outer side (front of the vehice). Than pull the bearings off the shaft and wash them refresh the grease or just renew them. The seals I dealt with were of different styles. Lanova had a carbon setup and my Dutch friend supplied me with NOS repair set. E6 had unified seal which was avalible from PAI and easy to replace. For some reason I've stocked up with a couple more PAI seals. To me it looked like you could upgrade an old pump to that unified seal applying some ingeunity and lathe work.

So those valve seals for 0,5" stems - are they Mack part? Which engine were they supposed to be installed onto originally? I knew that stuff for E7 Joey posted but never heard of seals for 1/2" stems. BTW my Lanova engine also had 1/2" stems both intake and exhaust and it used steel caps put under the stem upper dishes for "shielding" the oil.

You can do that with a corner grinder Accompanied by a caliper for control of evenness and a piece of sand paper put on glass for final finishing of the end. Sure machine shop is much better option!