Vladislav

Me too. But it's a printed copy. If you're looking for any tolerances or schemes/photos from it PM me.

This is FP of Gary Mahan's collection as it looked in 2013 when I took these pics. Very interesting vehicle on my taste combining classic look of 40's-40's with early 20th century's mechanics. The photo's are heavy since I can't downsize any at the moment so I may be needing to delete them in the future.

That looks like Lanova engine by the location of the injectors and Buda's were Lanova's in those days. Doesn't look like Mack Lanova it's worth to point out. Great find, very rare as it seems to me.

Wow! Greal truck and great project! And welcome to the group! Also very nice to learn such a vehicle showed up in Poland. I keep my eye for different Mack trucks over Europe for more than a decade and doubtly remember any L-model firetrucks besides your example. And L-models are rare in Europe at all. As you see both of your initial questions were answered immediately. This is an example of kindness of folks of here no doubt but also result of your approach putting questions in a correct manner and what was more important (as it seems to me) first representing your project and your needs with pictures and the story. People enjoy spending time on here communicating with persons of the same interests. And this goes better when info exchanges, not a one gate game. Speaking a bit more about the rev governer I can say I have one Mack truck with similar 707 engine and similar (or nearly similar) governor. First when I found it taking place there I was surprized seeing such part on a gasoline engine. Since I used to see them on diesels. Probably the matter is huge size of a truck's engine and risk of collapsing it due to high revs which is not a common problem with cars. A governor in my diesel Mack provides two functions - limits maximum revs and keeps idle. But this gasolin unit only limits overevving if I'm not wrong. Better to refresh this point checking out a manual. P.S. I very like your country and people. Used to drive there alot during many years, visited the most of big cities such as Warsaw, Krakow, Poznan, Gdansk etc. Unfortunately it's difficult or impossible for me to do that in the recent times, you know. Ok, let's hope for better times and better discuss Mack trucks. Vlad

Thank you! Almost as you said.

All I can say is I add my opinion to what said above. And I too like Mack trucks of 40's years (and own two). My preference is originality of a rig but your toy means your rules. Vlad

So is this the time to say Congrats??!!

Sounds like the valves are in the steering box with power cylinder put separately. You can only remove the lines from everywhere including steering pump and get a mechanical steering. What is I guess way far from what you want. The joint can be repaired in a machine shop. But that would be a headach and the truck must be parked for that time.

I don't know is that an assist cylinder or the only power cylinder. Which I would also call a power assist cylinder. Just depending on what it assists to - to the main cylinder or to a steering system.

Easterns usually had integrated steering boxes. That Western setup we talk about was born as an upgrate of mechanical steering. Mechanical gear in its place at the left rail with drag link attached to a Pitman arm. But the link has a valve assembly incorporated in it so when you apply force to it by steering wheel one or another valve opens (depending on the direction) and supplys pressure to a power cylinder which is fitted in parallel to the drag link. It may be fitted at the other side of the chassis (at the right) or right near the drag link. As soon as the cylinder has made his job moving the wheels the valve closes. If you continue forceing it by your hands cylinder continues turning the wheels further more. Actually this setup can be hydraulic or air and power cylinder can be attached to a tie rod too since there's no matter which point of the steering system you move. And may be arranged as an add on kit.

Weeping Willows? A kind of this? They grow here, not very common. I don't know why. Usually you see them near a river or a pond. Those in the picture were catched in Belorussia. It's 1000km to the West from my place and a little souther. But in general the same environment.

I've got mostly maples in my yard, planted them myself many years ago. Also a couple of oaks. Had a few birch trees too but mostly swapped them with firs which are seamless in the case of fallen leaves. The maples accompanied by oaks make a big job every authumn and I have to fill up 5 or 6 big sacks of old stuff and relocate it to a ditch along a side of my second property. This year turned out very short on time and I missed the moment. Yesterday's storm brang a few santimeters of snow onto the ground which cancelled the deal so far. The forecast promises warming back up in the next week so I foresee some gim with dirty wet stuff soon. It was fun a couple decades ago to put a hill of old leaves on fire. Fun for me and not for neighbours who built big houses close to my place so no such games anymore (but who knows?)

My guess the truck has valve assembly in the drag link and the power cylinder at the right. Doesn't it?

Does she cry of of how poor the shape of the poor old truck is and how soon are you going to bring it back to life?

You overestimating me Jojo. I've rebuilt a pump of my ED Lanova engine which I belive is very similar to that END-510 pump. It had a carbon ring combo'ed with rubber bushing and brass support ring. The parts were given to me new by a friend. But looked like some very usual repair kit of the past. The carbon ring works against a lapped spot on the pump housing. Actually a circle over the shaft hole in the housing. Cast iron was hardly pitted in the area so I ground and than lapped it. Cleaned bearings in solvent, put new grease, put new seal in place, assembled everything and spilled a half of glass of antifreeze in. Found it leaking so had to remove the pump wheel (sorry can't remember the correct term for the 2nd day). Found out I put the seal slightly wront. Fixed, reassembled, test filled with anifreeze agan - fine! All that was nearly 8 years ago (and the engine is still not in the truck!). But just the other day I finished restoration of a pump for my R-model (E6-350). It has a unified seal you remove from the housing and put back a new one (both avalible OEM and PAI). In my case it turned out I purchased original Renault part (it came from Europe). Of interesting points I noted 1st that unified seal has also conteined carbon (or ceramic-?) ring in it which just works against a certain internal part not the pump housing. Something like a Stemco hub seal. And the 2nd the overall design of that newer pump (E6 and E7 too) is very close to what Mack used in 40's and 50's. Even the gasket is the same. And as it looked to me you could cut the central hole in the old housing so it would be possible to fit that modern seal in it. Sure with a lathe. I just didn't have need already otherwise that might be a way to go.